Mobil 1 vs. Royal Purple vs. Redline vs. Amsoil
davefr
motor oils.
I'm starting to see more Royal Purple and Redline lubricants show up in
the parts stores. I'm also hearing some disturbing reports that Mobil
1's Tri-Synthetic oil is no longer 100% synthetic.
What synthetics are you using and why?
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Tom Duffy
I use Amsoil in everything I have that needs oil. From the string
trimmer to the Cummins in my Ram. Never had a problem with it since 1978.
Actually, come to think about it, that string trimmer is about 20 years old
at that. I really should change the spark plug... :>
My 2 Cents,
Tom
"davefr" <dav...@my-deja.com> wrote in message
news:942n2d$l20$1...@nnrp1.deja.com...
Ken & Patricia
particularly interesting one from lube...@my-deja.com
quote -
I am a Certified Lubrication
Specialist by the STLE (Society of Tribologists and Lubrication
Engineers) You can check me out by looking on the web STLE then member
list then Lubrication Engineers then then Kevin Dinwiddie. I've worked
for Lubrication Engineers for over 21 years and I aint no young pup
eather. So when I say I know what oils are better than others it's
because I've spent years testing them, and I'm just trying to help you
guys so you can get more miles out of your trucks.
In all the testing that I have seen over the last two years, Mobil-1 is
not better. Castrol syntec is better than Mobil-1. If you want to see
what other oils are better than those two oils then I'll post it.
In most of the cases a petro oil works better than the synthetics.
LE has tested between the two types of oils (synthetic and Petro) Some
of them are, Castrol Syntec, Amsoil 15w40, Mobil-1, Premium Blue 2000
15w40, Shaffer Supreme 7000 15w40. All synthetic.)
The test was the Falex Wear ASTM D-2670
And the TFOUT oxidation test ASTM D-4742
The wear test eather passed or failed. If it failed then a number was
not given. If the oil got a number then it passed and the number given
is the number of teeth on the automatic loading gear that clicks over
everytime the set psi goes down do to wear at the pin and vee blocks.
The pin rotates at 290 rpm and is sandwiched between two vee blocks.
The wear can be recorded at .0000556 at the pin. This test is very
accurate.
The second number is the oxidation number the higher the number the
better the oil will hold up under temperature.
Example;
Amoco Premier failed and got a 265 on the oxidation test
Mobil delvac 1300 super passed with an 18 tooth wear and 258 on the
oxidation test.
OIL PASS/FAIL TEETH
TFOUT
Amoco Premier Fail -------
265
Cat Diesel Fail -------
209
Chevron Delo 400 Fail -------
342
Mobil Delvac 1300 Super Pass 18
258
Mystic JT-8 Fail -------
148
Shaffer Supreme 7000 Fail -------
253
Shell Rotella T Fail -------
163
Premium Blue 2000 Fail -------
291
Amoco 300 Fail -------
209
Amsoil Pass 9
219
Case Fail -------
190
Castrol RX Super Fail -------
178
Citgo Ditgard 500 Fail -------
222
Coastal Unilube Fleet Fail -------
134
Bobil Delvac 1230 SAE 30 Fail -------
107
Moper Fail -------
121
Motorcraft Fail -------
144
Mr. Goodwrench Pass 16
137
Pennzoil Long-life Pass 17
331
Shell Rimula Super HPDEO Pass 13
227
Shell Rimula-X HPDEO Fail -------
86
Shell Rotella T SAE 30 Fail -------
151
Tech 2000 Fail -------
140
Total Rubia Diesel 4000 Fail -------
130
Universal SHPD Pass 13
153
Premium Blue Pass 16
361
Castrol Syntec SAE 5w30 Pass 13
195
Castrol Super Fleet Pass 16
243
Mobil-1 Fail -------
180
Lubrication Engineers 8800 Pass 5
323
Lubrication Engineers SAE 30 Pass 5
253
To find the best oil you should ask yourself what do you want? lower
wear or longer oil life or both you can look at this chart and find the
oil that best suits your needs. Keep in mind that some of the oils had
higher oxidation numbers but did poor on the wear test. these oils
would not make it to long oil drains because of the higher wear
particles and would have to be changed anyway. The best oil for wear
and oxidation combination is the LE 8800 15w-40
Sincerely, Kevin
end quote
--
Ken
"davefr" <dav...@my-deja.com> wrote in message
news:942n2d$l20$1...@nnrp1.deja.com...
Jerry Steele
Oh, someones cooking SPAM!
Jerry
Caveat Emptor
davefr
He also seems to miss a couple key criteria such as flash point and low
temperature flow rate. I'm also surious why he favors mineral oil base
to synthetic base. That goes against everyhting I've heard.
I'm more confused than ever.
In article <Cjf96.42738$JV4.5...@typhoon.southeast.rr.com>,
Truckracer
Bottom line - Choose the correct viscosity, use a major brand of oil, use
high quality (not high price) filters, change oil and filters at the same
time on regular intervals (either mileage or time based depending on how you
drive) and you will not have a lubrication based failure. Your vehicle will
not wear out internally any faster than anyone else using the most expensive
and exotic oils.
"davefr" <dav...@my-deja.com> wrote in message
news:944r1d$cra$1...@nnrp1.deja.com...
Mark R. Hansen
in each classification. They all meet that new in the bottle, but it's in
your engine that counts!
How long will a particular brand stay where it's supposed to? It varies
a lot. You can buy the supermarket stuff, but it doesn't have much of an
additive package, i.e....detergents, dispersants, etc.. You can buy a known
name brand and change every 3000 miles. Or you can check out the facts on
high quality synthetics and save money over time. This is particularly true
if you do much towing! I have found this to be true with my wife's 89
Cummins.
Regards, Mark
"Truckracer" <par...@nospamtelepath.com> wrote in message
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Joe
"Mark R. Hansen" <best1s...@usadatanet.net> wrote in message
news:3a6a0...@news5.newsfeeds.com...
> Or you can check out the facts on
> high quality synthetics and save money over time. This is particularly
true
> if you do much towing! I have found this to be true with my wife's 89
> Cummins.
> Regards, Mark
Curious as how you can save money with the synthetics? They're pricey.
Do you get a longer service interval?
Joe
Budd Cochran
carbon frozen rings and used std. size parts to rebuild. The oil used was
always a petroleum based oil.
I have a friend in Penrose CO with a 305 Chevy with about the same mileage
and has never been torn down, barely any smoke, and runs as good as a 305
can. He's always used Mobil1.
Now that my 318 is fully broken-in, I'm going to Mobil1.
--
Mr. D-150
Budd Cochran
79 D-150
52 Cushman RoadKing motorscooter
mo...@smartgroups.com ( mopar turbo egroup)
"Truckracer" <par...@nospamtelepath.com> wrote in message
news:Rfka6.141$9q6....@newshog.newsread.com...
Truckracer
purchase your oil...... How do I know this?
Been a maintenance professional all of my working life (25 years worth).
Been employed by Gulf oil, Chevron, and Texaco. Visited lube oil blending
plants, watched the packaging process's and have consulted with the best
lubrication engineer's in the business. I have seen or been part of every
test to measure lubrication efficiently you can imagine and most you can't.
The equipment I take care of on a daily basis is worth literally millions of
dollars.
I build circle track and drag engines for customers and friends. I have
given them the same advice I gave in here. I have had guys who wanted the
synthetics - we ran them. Those engines produced the same power, had the
same life span and wore out in the same areas as the quality petroleum based
oils.
One advantage to synthetics over conventional oils is cold start up in very
cold temps (below 20 degrees) these oils will flow better initially. But, a
big draw back is hot idle oil pressure, if your engine is built to the
larger side of the manufacturers specs then you may experience lower oil
pressure at idle when hot.
"Mark R. Hansen" <best1s...@usadatanet.net> wrote in message
news:3a6a0...@news5.newsfeeds.com...
jtj...@my-deja.com
>
> Curious as how you can save money with the synthetics? They're
pricey.
> Do you get a longer service interval?
>
> Joe
>
>
continued service when drained.
Jim (Dealer)
RedNeck TookOver Hell
>continued service when drained.
>Jim (Dealer)
>
In an oil burner to heat the shop
God, Guns, Mopars, Sex & Rock & Roll!!!
jmu...@gmail.com
My name is Jason and I currently drive a 2006 Police Package Crown Victoria and currently I am running as the manual states 5w20 Amsoil full synthetic, which has been very good. Here is my question to this true fact. I am looking to change from Amsoil to Royal Purple, because I have so many friends that swear by Royal Purple and have been told Amsoil is a good solid synthetic oil, but its not even Government rated and plus its the same oil used in aviation as well. My question for is is a toss up of my choice on what the best oil for my 4.6 LTR V8 engine should have running through it whether it be Amsoil, Royal Purple or Mobile 1, keep in mind my car has 154,520 miles currently on it and as with any police package 100,000 miles the engine is just getting broken in. Should also know the new HMX Royal Purple only comes in 5w30 which my manual calls for 5w20, should I be concerned about changing to a thicker grade oil or does it matter? I know using a 10w30 is not at all ever recommended, what improvements or difference would I noticed going from 5w20 to 5w30 if I needed too. You can email me direct with my request and answer to:
jmu...@gmail.com
I look forward to hearing from you and what you have to say as I am very intrigued by the article and post you wrote.
Kind Regards,
Jason
mipa...@gmail.com
Gyrfalcon
My Toyota 22R made some ominous noises not long after I put Mobil 1 in
it. Happened twice. Lasted a minute or two, then quieted back down
again. I think switching to synthetic oil in an already
Pennzoil-varnished, high mileage engine was a mistake.
I read some warnings somewhere about using Royal Purple in small
2-stroke engines.
Amsoil's marketing scares me.
I don't know about Redline. I thought they made motorcycle frames.
> Not listening to a guy who can't spell "either"
1mg...@gmail.com
scott...@gmail.com
magmet
> Well amsoil is 100% synthetic you can get it at www.mgsoils.com
wetter than ever.
I don't think the other brands have a competing product.