Factory Alarm?
9...@netcom.ca
Just wondering if the GM factory alarm w/ the "theft Pass" key is good
enough security for the car? Is it worth investing in an aftermarket
alarm system for my car?
Thanks,
Mark
CobraJet
If you can find an experienced alarm guy in your area the money is
better spent in the aftermarket. There are also far more options available
for truly customizing your protection. Faaar more.
CobraJet
.
JMustang90
>Just wondering if the GM factory alarm w/ the "theft Pass" key is good
>enough security for the car? Is it worth investing in an aftermarket
>alarm system for my car?
I've had two cars stolen from me, so I'm a big advocate of the best security
system(s) you can buy .. I'm curious whether the pass-key system works, but as
far as the factory alarm, I'd bet it would only stop joyriders. Reason being,
anyone who buys the shop manual for GM cars knows exactly how to disarm the
alarm and where all the pieces of it are. After all, repair people need to
know in case it malfunctions, so what is to stop a thief from reading the same
material? or for that matter, a GM repair person from stealing a GM car?
--------------------
1998 T/A
1994 Camaro 3.4L Conv't
1989 Saleen #27
1990 Mustang LX 5.0
GNeri4165
you people couldn't be more wrong....in reference to joy riders.
with the pass-key system, the car cannot be started without the key.
it is impossible to hot wire or bypass the system....fyi, there are twelve
different resistance chips that could be in your key, so the only way to steal
the car would be to have a copy of your key with the proper chip if not, the
computer shuts down the system and renders the car immobile for five minutes
before a would be theif could even try again....
if you'd like more info please feel free to respond
MY 94Z
Even a thief had the manuals and knew where everything was it would take too
long for them to do! Everyone that's ever worked on a GM vehicle knows if you
work on anything in the interior you have to remove most of the dash.:) I think
it's part of there design criteria.:) I heard something a while back about
thieves having a box that sticks into the ignition switch reads what resistance
it is and bam they stole your car. If i was going to steal cars I would buy a
flatbed wrecker and just snatch them up! Or what the Repo-Men use a
Quick-Snatch Wrecker! Just back upto the rear tires and you can hook upto it
from inside the wrecker without getting out!! This is quicker and safer for
both Rpo-Men and thieves.
MY 94 Z-28
94 Z-28 A-4, 2.73(soon to be 3.42)
Flowmaster, HPP+, K&N
Accel 300+, GSS Strut Tower Brace
73 Type LT Primer, In pieces but it won't be long!!!
Neil Phipps
I've got an '89 IROC than somebody tried to rip-off. They bust the
doorand broke the steering lock, then rolled it out of my driveway and
tried to start it ... the pass-key stopped them from driving off with
it, but the cops woke me at 3:00 am with the news and there was $3000
in damage ... the insurance paid, but I had to hassle with them
because they tried to say it was only vandalism ... they agreed after
I sent them a copy of the police report ...
So, for what it's worth the pass-key does work, the computer wouldn't
start the car without it ... but I had an alarm system installed which
has a pager in case it gets set off ... haven't had any problems
since.
Hope this helps,
Neil
'89 IROC, TPIS Fast Pack, Banks Stinger Cat back exhaust,
Edelbrock headers, Trick Flow heads, MSD 6-AL ignition,
TPIS chip.
On Mon, 20 Apr 1998 18:32:55 -0400, 9...@netcom.ca wrote:
>Just wondering if the GM factory alarm w/ the "theft Pass" key is good
>enough security for the car? Is it worth investing in an aftermarket
>alarm system for my car?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Mark
SBHatcher
JMustang90 wrote.....
>After all, repair people need to
>know in case it malfunctions, so what is to stop a thief from reading the
>same
>material? or for that matter, a GM repair person from stealing a GM car?
Well, turns out that on a lot of the cars that he put high dollar stereo and
alarm equipment in, he would put a kill switch for the alarm under the rear
bumper. About a month after the install, he would go to the owners house in
the middle of the night, turn off the alarm, and steal the equipment. he would
then resell the stuff to another customer, nad do it all again. The rest of
the guys who worked there did this as well. Makes me glad that I install all
of my own electronis, expecially teh alarm.
BTW, a little advice for anyone looking into an alarm. Don' t install it under
the drivers side dash (or if having a pro do it, ask them to put it elsewhere).
Almost everybody puts their alarm box there, so its ussually real easy to find
and disable most alarms. My alarm box is hidden well, deep within the console.
Pain in the ass to install and work on, but worth it in that it would take
more work for a thief to find it. Same goes for the siren. Don't put it in
plain sight under the hood. Make it at least challenging for them.
Shannon
SBHa...@aol.com
'88 Camaro 2.8 V6, M5
Flowmaster, and a well hidden alarm
Steve Cole
And if you're smart you'll have a killswitch somewhere in the car - that
way the thief can't tell if s/he's got the right resistor if they're a
professional. It's nearly impossible to deal with the two variables at
once because it works like this math:
12 resistors multiplied by
the dozen switches it could be equals:
144 different combinations - PROVIDED the thief knows to look for the kill
switch/button!
Now if you figure five minutes between each try and take one variable from
the resistors you get 11 times 12, you get 132 combinations that will shut
the ignition off for 5 minutes at a time. That's 11 hours, L&G.
Now, let's say the button is somewhere else in the car, hidden under
upholstery under the seat, for instance. Now what's the thief got left -
tow truck. That's about the only way.
Cheers,
Steve |President & Systems Administrator, Kingston Online Services
|(e pluribus unix) Multiple-T1 URL: http://www.kos.net/
|Business and Education partners in SouthEastern Ontario
|
|"Through the firewall, out the router, down the T1, across the
|backbone, bounced from satellite, it's nothing but net."
|(forgive me if I'm terse, I answer hundreds of e-mails a day)
Carl
9...@netcom.ca wrote:
>
> Just wondering if the GM factory alarm w/ the "theft Pass" key is good
> enough security for the car? Is it worth investing in an aftermarket
> alarm system for my car?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mark
Get an aftermarket alarm with a pager, preferably one that tells you
which sensor went off so YOU know what's happening to your car. Get the
standard door & hatch alarms and also get either a glass break sensor or
an interior radar sensor. If tear gas & mace were legal I'd say get that
too. If your car's hot & has a lot of effort in it or you just hate the
idea of someone else having your car consider LO-Jack also. You want the
alarm to keep it from being taken in the first place & the LO-Jack to
get it back just in case. NO alarm can keep you car from being stolen,
you're hoping to slow them down enough so they get caught or discouraged
enough so they don't bother.
Carcaridon
>Just wondering if the GM factory alarm w/ the "theft Pass" key is >good enough
security for the car? Is it worth investing in an >aftermarket alarm system
for my car?
I would say ditch the factory alarm. The passkey setup is part of the car, so
you can't get rid of it. And that's good. But the "Silencer" alarm they put
in just sucks. I had it removed the day after I bought the car and got a
killer aftermarket setup that was cheaper than the $460 they were going to
charge me for their alarm. Also, if the car has T-Tops, get the radar sensor
as well (perimeter gaurd). It fills the cabin with a radar (bubble) that if
anyone reaches into the car with the tops off, the alarm goes off. Added
security. Also, for kill switches, clifford uses a plain insight kill switch.
This switch uses a code to activate. Something worth looking into as well.
Heath
'98 Trans Am - Black/Pewter
LS1/A4 - 3.23's
Dean E. Lopez
Carcaridon <carca...@aol.com> wrote in article
<199804211452...@ladder01.news.aol.com>...
One important feature that must be mentioned with auto alarms is the
"rotating code" to prevent lurkers with code-catchers from stealing
your code when you disarm it. Unless most of the codes are grabbed,
they stand a poor chance of using the correct code when they try to
disarm it.
I liked the alarm I had on my previous car ('87 Supra). The alarm
could only be disarmed by unlocking the driver side door. No key fobs.
It took a physical action to disarm it.
--
Dean E. Lopez lop...@hou.valmet.com
Systems Analyst, RTU Firmware Engineering
Valmet Automation Houston, Texas USA
'98 TA M6 TT 16Chrome
Steve Cole
On Tue, 21 Apr 1998, Dean E. Lopez wrote:
> I liked the alarm I had on my previous car ('87 Supra). The alarm
> could only be disarmed by unlocking the driver side door. No key fobs.
> It took a physical action to disarm it.
To me that's a great idea...
SoftSell Inc.
9...@netcom.ca <9...@netcom.ca> wrote in message <353BCD...@netcom.ca>...
>Just wondering if the GM factory alarm w/ the "theft Pass" key is good
>enough security for the car? Is it worth investing in an aftermarket
>alarm system for my car?
>
Here's some security tips. Had auto security stores in Boston for 12 years.
Park with wheels cut all the way (makes towing tougher) Park nose in to a
building with cut wheels. Select parking spots carefully.
Block it in at home if you can.
Get an alarm - the noise works sometimes, people ignore them (but they look)
but crooks can't. -
Towing is a major enemy! make sure an alarm will keep ringing from motion
trigger. Cops often pull over tow trucks with sirens ringing / lights
flashing...
use sensors that trigger from glass break. (sound sensors are better than
shock.)
Get a loud siren and mount it so sound goes down and out of eng comp but
still out of reach from under.
Hide a kill switch somewhere or get a passive one or both
If you have any electrical knowledge - a SPDT relay can work wonders. A
passive kill. I will post wiring info per request
Have an elec fuel pump? - I set up a timer that of not deactivated - the
pump dies 90 seconds after start. STALL! - The crook has no idea why!
There are steel steering column housings available that make pooping the
column difficult if not impossible. These are about 250 plus install (maybe
more now?).
If you are not sure if the car is safe in a given location, it's probably
not. Take something else.
Roy
Steve Cole
On Tue, 21 Apr 1998, SoftSell Inc. wrote:
> Hide a kill switch somewhere or get a passive one or both
> If you have any electrical knowledge - a SPDT relay can work wonders. A
> passive kill. I will post wiring info per request
Please elaborate on this. I'm not up on the terminology yet!
> There are steel steering column housings available that make pooping the
> column difficult if not impossible. These are about 250 plus install (maybe
> more now?).
Cool... are these housings any bulkier than standard?
Brent Franker
From: Steve Cole <co...@kos.net>
>> Hide a kill switch somewhere or get a passive one or both
>> If you have any electrical knowledge - a SPDT relay can work wonders. A
>> passive kill. I will post wiring info per request
>
>Please elaborate on this. I'm not up on the terminology yet!
Steve,
The below message is a post I made a while back to a guy who asked for a
backup to the VATS system. It is kinda long and some stuff won't apply, but
you should get the picture. This is just one way to do it but this will at
least give you an option and maybe a better understanding of a SPDT relay.
Roy may post something completely different but, between the two, you should
be able to come up with something!
There are also different ways in which you can hook up the switch. If you
are at all familiar with what I typed up below, you could even reverse the
"function" of the switch and wire in a hidden pushbutton (momentary type
switch) that would only allow the starting of your car while the pushbutton
is being held in. If you are really paranoid, you could even wire two
hidden pushbuttons in series!
Roy, do you have any idea how the steering wheel radio controls "work" on a
95 T/A? I haven't looked into it yet, but I was thinking about wiring
something up so the car would only start while, for example, I was holding
the "Seek" button in the up direction. I don't suppose you would have any
idea on which wires I need to use before I start probing around with a
meter?? (I'm using an aftermarket radio so the steering wheel controls
aren't even connected) Thanks!
---------------------------
Did you know the resistor pellet in your key does basically the same thing?
Are you afraid this will fail and want another means of protection?
Whatever your reasoning, here is how you can connect a fail-safe relay to
act as a starter kill.
You'll need a standard automotive SPDT relay, usually 30 or 40 amps with the
85, 86, 30, 87, and 87a labeling on it. You'll also need a 1 or 2 amp
diode. The 85 and 86 contacts are the coil. Take a piece of scrap 16 or 18
gauge wire and connect one end to ground. Take the other end and twist the
NON banded side of the diode to it. Take this "twist" and crimp on a female
blade connector then slide the connector onto pin 86 of the relay (we'll get
to the other side of the diode later). To make this a fail safe relay and
one that is ONLY energized when someone tries to start the car (when you
have your switch ON) you have to wire up the positive side of the coil in an
unusual way. The positive side of the coil will actually get its power from
the 12v that would normally be going to the starter. First though, tie the
relay into the starter wire. For your car, the starter wire should be a
heavy gauge YELLOW wire (actually, its yellow for all 3rd and 4th gen
f-bodies) coming from the ignition switch harness. Cut this yellow wire.
Your car should not start at this time. You now have a yellow section of
wire going off to the starter and the other section going to the ignition
switch. You'll now need another piece of scrap wire to go from where you
plan to mount the relay to your hidden switch (this wire doesn't have to be
a thick wire, it can also be 16 or 18 gauge). Take this wire and twist it
to the yellow wire going to the ignition switch (not the starter). Now take
both these wires (at the twist) and crimp a female blade type connector over
them. Now take this blade connector and slide it over pin 30 on the relay.
Take the other end of the piece of wire you just twisted together with the
yellow wire and connect it to one side of your hidden switch. Take another
piece of scrap wire and connect it to the other side of your switch. Take
the other end of this piece of scrap wire now connected to your hidden
switch and twist to it the banded side of the diode from before. Take this
twist and crimp on a female blade connector and slide this connector over
pin 85 of the relay (positive side of coil). What the diode is doing is
preventing the possibility of "inductive lockup". That part is now done and
you need to complete the path through the relay for the starter. Take the
yellow wire coming from the starter and connect it to pin 87a of the relay.
All pins on the relay should be used EXCEPT pin 87. Your cheap little
backup to the GM VATS starter kill should be done. The way it works is
pretty neat. It's called "fail safe" because 99.99% of the time, if the
relay were to fail, it would fail in a position still allowing you to start
the car. Also, since the relay should really never be energized (only
energized when someone tries to start the car with the switch ON) chances of
relay failure are even less. If you don't understand relays too well, here
is what will happen: With the switch ON, if someone tries to start your car
it will send 12v through the yellow wire going to the starter. The instant
12v goes through this yellow wire, this same 12v will actuate the relay
coil. When the coil actuates, the normal internal connection going between
relay pins 30 and 87a (your yellow wire input and output) will be broken and
not allow the starter to get the 12v.
There are other ways to make a starter kill, but because of the way this
works I think it is one of the better ways :) You could even connect your
switch inline with the ground wire instead of inline with the 12v coming
from the yellow wire (not inline with the yellow wire, but coming from the
yellow wire!). Now that I think about it, that's actually the way I should
have told you to wire up the switch. But, there is a lightning storm here
right now and I don't want to retype all that :) It really doesn't matter
but if you want and are somewhat familiar with what I'm talking about above,
just splice in your switch with the ground wire and not the wire we used to
"jumper" between relay pins 30 and 85.
FYI: for those of you who have alarms but don't have a starter kill on the
alarm, you can use the above. You just won't use a hidden switch. You'd
connect your alarm wire which receives a ground when armed (usually orange)
to the negative side of the coil... in this case, pin 86.
Good luck and feel free to email me if you have questions. This would have
been much easier to describe with a picture, but attachments aren't allowed
:)
-----------------------------------
See ya,
Brent
95 T/A - Stock For mods & info
94 Z28 - Not Stock :-) http://www.citrus.infi.net/~bfranker
RBKIRK
9...@netcom.ca wrote:
> Just wondering if the GM factory alarm w/ the "theft Pass" key is good
> enough security for the car? Is it worth investing in an aftermarket
> alarm system for my car?
> This is the best article I saw on PASS key...I can't even remember where
> I got it from...
> In 1986, the dreams of car thieves with a penchant for new Corvettes
> were shattered. In that year, GM introduced the electronic PASS-Key
> theft-deterrent system exclusively on Chevrolet's plastic-fantastic.
> Prior to that, all it took to defeat GM's locking steering column was a
> few basic hand tools and a degree from the university of vandalism.
> PASS-Key (personal automotive security system), also known as VATS
> (vehicle anti-theft system), uses a special encoded ignition key that
> actually contains an electronic password (so to speak). This new
> technology became so successful in reducing Corvette thefts in just its
> first year, that some insurance companies began offering significant
> discounts on comprehensive coverage to the fiberglass crowd. After
> discouraging untold numbers of unauthorized would-be Corvette owners, it
> didn't take long before the PASS-Key system found itself on guard-duty
> for the Chevy Camaro, Pontiac Firebird and a host of the General's
> luxury and sports sedans.
> While the PASS-Key system may help lower insurance premiums, it raises
> the number of possibilities for you to consider when troubleshooting a
> motionless engine. In this article, we'll cover the extra items you'll
> need to add to your no-start shopping list if a GM car equipped with a
> PASS-Key system is towed into your shop.
> How it works
> The PASS-Key system prevents the engine from starting if the resistance
> of the encoded key pellet is not recognized by the system's
> theft-deterrent controller. When the resistance does not agree with the
> value stored in the controller, the system will shut down for a period
> of 2-4 minutes. During that time, the starter motor will not operate.
> Also, if the engine were to crank, which is highly unlikely, the ECM
> fuel injector control would be disabled as a secondary measure. If the
> controller receives an 'Ignition-ON' signal during the 2-4 minute
> shutdown interval, even as a result of using the correct key, the
> internal solid-state timer will reset and the time-out period will begin
> again. This process effectively prevents the engine from starting and
> discourages anyone from trying to use resistance values at random. Once
> the timer has completed its 2-4 minute cycle with the ignition off, the
> controller will reset. At this point, the correct ignition key can be
> used to start the engine. This arrangement provides protection against
> the most common method of auto theft...destroying the steering column to
> activate the ignition switch. VATS offers the following benefits over
> conventional anti-theft designs:
> it's a totally passive system which eliminates the need for any
> driver involvement
> it assumes that the thief has an understanding about how the system
> operates
> it's a stand-alone design that can be used in conjunction with an
> audible alarm system
> the electronics are designed to accommodate future enhancements.
> The key to the system
> The PASS-Key (ignition key) uses a typical square head blank that
> contains unique mechanical cuts similar to all regular ignition keys.
> What makes this key different however, is the addition of a special
> resistor pellet. As you've probably already guessed, the blank and
> pellet are not serviced separately making the PASS-Key a tad more
> expensive than your everyday ignition key. In addition, these blanks can
> only be purchased at a new-car dealer. There are a total of 15 different
> blanks available, each containing a different resistance value ranging
> from approximately 400 (key code 1) to 11,800 (key code 15).
> The steering column lock cylinder is another unique component exclusive
> to vehicles equipped with VATS. While it still performs all of the
> normal ignition switch lock functions, it's also used to communicate the
> key code (resistance value) to the system's theft-deterrent controller.
> Inside the lock cylinder resides a pair of electrical contacts that are
> used to communicate the resistance of the ignition key pellet. A 2-way
> connector at the base of the steering column connects these contacts to
> the controller where the entire circuit resistance is interpreted. This
> is why the routing of the wiring harness is so important when replacing
> a lock cylinder. If the wires are kinked for example, the increased
> circuit resistance will raise the value that the controller expects to
> see and will cause it to assume that the wrong key is being inserted.
> This will result in a no-start condition.
> If you need to replace a VATS steering column lock cylinder, it will not
> only be necessary to cut a matching key blank, but the security code
> also (resistance value) must be identified, so it will match the value
> stored in the controller. A special tool known as the 'VATS
> Interrogator' can recognize any resistor pellet code when a PASS-Key is
> placed in the tool's lock cylinder. If a VATS Interrogator is not
> available, you can still identify key codes by measuring the resistance
> of the pellet with an ohmmeter and comparing the value to a
> code/resistance chart. If the driver loses a key and a spare is
> unavailable, the mechanical code can be determined from the code on the
> lock cylinder. However, in the case of a missing PASS-Key, the
> Interrogator will be necessary to identify which of the 15 possible
> codes is stored in the controller so the correct blank may be cut. There
> is a way around this if you're working on a 1986-'88 Corvette. Since
> these systems used 15 different controllers--one for each key code--you
> can go by the part number on the controller to identify the security
> code. The only problem with this is that you'll have to remove the top
> of the instrument panel to gain access to that information.
> Electronic sentry
> The theft-deterrent controller, commonly referred to as the 'decoder
> module,' contains the logic of the VATS system. There are two inputs to
> the decoder including an ignition-power and resistor-pellet input
> signal. On later systems ('89 up) there is a constant battery voltage
> supply to the module that permits security lamp control when the
> ignition is off. When the key is turned to the ON position and battery
> voltage is supplied to the decoder, the module instantly reads the
> resistance of the key pellet. The resistor pellet identifies the
> ignition key to the decoder as either being authentic or counterfeit. As
> long as the resistance value of the ignition key matches the stored
> value in the decoder, then the module will output the appropriate
> signals that provide starter motor operation and fuel injector pulses.
> On newer systems ('89 up) there is only one decoder for the 15 different
> key codes. These modules are programmable and will permanently 'learn'
> the key code (resistance value) the first time the ignition is turned
> on. The decoder module on these later systems also controls the
> operation of the instrument panel security lamp or the driver
> information center (where applicable).
> Crank and fuel
> A starter enable relay is placed in the VATS circuit between the decoder
> module and the starter motor. When the correct key code is recognized by
> the decoder it completes the ground circuit for the starter enable
> relay. With the relay energized, battery power flows through the closed
> contacts of the relay through either a clutch or park/neutral switch
> (depending on transmission type) to the starter solenoid.
> The fuel enable circuit is an output from the decoder that signals the
> ECM to pulse the fuel injectors. The ECM emits a 5V signal through a
> current-limiting resistor to the decoder. When the module senses the
> proper resistance value, it will pull the 5V signal to ground. When the
> ECM sees close to zero volts on the fuel enable line, it knows to pulse
> the injectors. If the decoder does not sense the proper resistance
> value, or if an alternate means is used to start the engine, it will not
> complete the appropriate outputs to ground. This will prevent the engine
> from cranking and prohibit fuel delivery as well.
> Security lamp
> The VATS system has undergone some modifications over the years which
> has created some system differences. The initial design that was used on
> the '86 through '88 Corvette did not use a programmable decoder module
> and did not include security lamp diagnostics. The next generation of
> the system, better known as PASS-Key I, was introduced in 1989 and began
> using a programmable theft-deterrent controller, as well as limited
> security lamp diagnostics. The present day version, known as PASS-Key
> II, is the same as PASS-Key I but has more diagnostic capability via the
> security lamp.
> The security indicator lamp located in the instrument panel is
> controlled directly by the decoder module through a grounding circuit.
> On PASS-Key I, the indicator lamp will turn on for two seconds and then
> go out if the key code matches the stored resistance value in the
> module. If the decoder is actively preventing the vehicle from starting,
> the security indicator will remain on for the duration of the event.
> On PASS-Key II systems the security indicator lamp will illuminate for
> approximately five seconds to indicate proper system operation before
> going out. If the security lamp stays on after the engine starts, it
> means that the decoder module has sensed an open, a short, or has
> suddenly detected an improper circuit resistance value with the engine
> running.
> When the decoder module actively prevents the engine from starting, the
> indicator will stay illuminated for three minutes plus or minus 18
> seconds. When the engine won't start, and the security lamp flashes once
> per second, it indicates that the decoder module has sensed an open, a
> short or the use of a defective ignition key. Under this condition
> however, the lockout period will not be in effect. Finally, if an
> unprogrammed (new) module is installed and a fault exists in the wiring,
> the security lamp will flash once per second but the engine will start.
> However, the decoder module will not program until the fault is
> repaired.
> The symptom list grows
> Like any no-start condition, the process begins with determining whether
> or not the engine cranks. The first and easiest item to check for
> causing a no-crank condition is the PASS-Key itself. If the resistor
> pellet is cracked or coated with foreign material, it's a good bet that
> the decoder module is denying access since it doesn't recognize the
> correct resistance value. If you have a VATS Interrogator you can check
> the owner's key by placing it into the tool's lock cylinder. If an 'E'
> (error) is displayed, the key is defective and must be replaced. The
> next item to check on the no-crank list is the lock cylinder sensing
> contacts. Take a flashlight and look into the lock cylinder. If the
> contacts are not silver in color, appear loose or damaged, replace the
> cylinder. A conclusive test of the lock cylinder, wires and key can be
> made with a digital multimeter, preferably one with a MIN/MAX function.
> Place the key in the cylinder and then disconnect the 2-wire connector
> at the base of the steering column. Set the meter on the 20k scale using
> the MIN/MAX feature. Probe the connector and read the resistance while
> simultaneously turning the steering wheel back and forth. Any wide
> deviation or intermittent resistance reading indicates a faulty lock
> cylinder and harness assembly. If the meter reads infinity (open),
> remove the key and use a small screwdriver to bridge the lock cylinder's
> electrical contact gap. The meter should read close to zero ohms at this
> point indicating that the PASS-Key is open. Also, check the fuses that
> supply power to the decoder module. These include battery input (except
> 1986-'88 Corvettes) and ignition power feed.
> If a vehicle cranks but won't start, check for a stored trouble code 46
> or 58 (depending on the vehicle). These codes are used to indicate a
> problem on the fuel enable line, and will set if the fuel enable signal
> is not present between the ECM and the decoder module when the ignition
> is turned on. When these codes are stored in memory, the problem is
> generally a defective decoder module. Although less likely to cause this
> condition, keep in mind that faulty wiring, a bad ECM or loose
> connections could also be responsible.
SoftSell
Brent Franker wrote in message <6hjl26$7u7$1...@nw001t.infi.net>...
>From: Steve Cole <co...@kos.net>
>>> Hide a kill switch somewhere or get a passive one or both
>>> If you have any electrical knowledge - a SPDT relay can work wonders. A
>>> passive kill. I will post wiring info per request
>>
>>Please elaborate on this. I'm not up on the terminology yet!
>
>There are also different ways in which you can hook up the switch. If you
>are at all familiar with what I typed up below, you could even reverse the
>"function" of the switch and wire in a hidden pushbutton (momentary type
>switch) that would only allow the starting of your car while the pushbutton
>is being held in. If you are really paranoid, you could even wire two
>hidden pushbuttons in series!
You can also use a separate power supply for the switch coil. instead of the
diode, Like the up window wire or rear defog. etc.. (Like a lojack)
Now that I read on - you may use a pos or neg signal from you wheel.
(sure you know that) read on though..
>Roy, do you have any idea how the steering wheel radio controls "work" on a
>95 T/A? I haven't looked into it yet, but I was thinking about wiring
>something up so the car would only start while, for example, I was holding
>the "Seek" button in the up direction. I don't suppose you would have any
>idea on which wires I need to use before I start probing around with a
>meter?? (I'm using an aftermarket radio so the steering wheel controls
>aren't even connected) Thanks!
Sounds like you know your stuff but If you need help with testing wheel I'm
here.
Just find two wires to a switch and use it as you would any other. Open it
up
and look at colors. Beleive there is a ribbon cable. Don't think there is
any
electronics in the wheel, just contacts. The tuner is a separate module
under dash.
I have a good one for ya - this not only addresses normal theft but also
hi-jack, stolen keys and valet yahoos. I tell them thay can park it once.
Get a pulse timer. An inexpensive item from an auto security shop. These
have an adjustable delay timers. (Usually 10 to 90 secs.) Use the ignition
to trigger the count. If the unit is not signalled to stop counting, it will
send a
signal to have a relay open the fuel pump curcuit. Car dies miles away.
You are safe, the car is off, and the crook's bummin' in the middle of the
road.
This same trigger can also be used to sound siren (or horn) and flash
lights..
Safety features can been added to warn you. Both audible a visible.
Of course a valet and other bypass, and an led or dash light indicator can
be added...
I am making custom harnesses for my '71. Remote windows, locks, trunk
pop w gas pistins, door pop using "Balls" actuators.
And of course, don't forget the auto drive to store and pay my bills option.
I removed all door and trunk handles and keys. Steel welded in place...
>Did you know the resistor pellet in your key does basically the same thing?
>Are you afraid this will fail and want another means of protection?
>Whatever your reasoning, here is how you can connect a fail-safe relay to
>act as a starter kill.
If vats is bypassed there is no kill It is also a timed kill.
If they have a key, there is no protection. (stolen, found, or held up)
Valet drivers can't joy ride....
You know terminal #87? Think what happens when it is run to the horn or a
siren.
Cool eh?
the starter wire should be a
>heavy gauge YELLOW wire (actually, its yellow for all 3rd and 4th gen
>f-bodies) coming from the ignition switch harness.
Yes, Yellow in most newer GM's Purple in older years (mid '80s and back).
Mixed in '80's
Always 12 Gua or larger (10 guage and maybe even 8) I always soldered these
wires.
The whole job can also be done under the hood. Main Harness above brake
booster.
I used the park lights (light brown) in customer cars for Pos. signal
control. Wired relay so it
blasted the horn (green) instead of crank if p lights were off. Passive kill
like this is good
for a yearly 20% comp insurance discount in Mass. All for 3 bucks!
I'ts late man... Parts research for hours.
Regards
Roy
Brent Franker
SoftSell wrote
>Brent Franker wrote in message <6hjl26$7u7$1...@nw001t.infi.net>...
>>Roy, do you have any idea how the steering wheel radio controls "work" on
a
>>95 T/A? I haven't looked into it yet, but I was thinking about wiring
>>something up so the car would only start while, for example, I was holding
>>the "Seek" button in the up direction. I don't suppose you would have any
>>idea on which wires I need to use before I start probing around with a
>>meter?? (I'm using an aftermarket radio so the steering wheel controls
>>aren't even connected) Thanks!
>
>Sounds like you know your stuff but If you need help with testing wheel I'm
>here.
>Just find two wires to a switch and use it as you would any other. Open it
>up
>and look at colors. Beleive there is a ribbon cable. Don't think there is
>any
>electronics in the wheel, just contacts. The tuner is a separate module
>under dash.
OK, I'll start hunting. I thought maybe you had all the steering wheel
controls already mapped out :)
>I have a good one for ya - this not only addresses normal theft but also
>hi-jack, stolen keys and valet yahoos. I tell them thay can park it once.
>
>Get a pulse timer. An inexpensive item from an auto security shop. These
>have an adjustable delay timers. (Usually 10 to 90 secs.) Use the ignition
>to trigger the count. If the unit is not signalled to stop counting, it
will
>send a
>signal to have a relay open the fuel pump curcuit. Car dies miles away.
>You are safe, the car is off, and the crook's bummin' in the middle of the
>road.
>This same trigger can also be used to sound siren (or horn) and flash
>lights..
>Safety features can been added to warn you. Both audible a visible.
>Of course a valet and other bypass, and an led or dash light indicator can
>be added...
Yes, it is endless the amount of "stuff" you can do with a few simple relays
and a little imagination.
>I am making custom harnesses for my '71. Remote windows, locks, trunk
>pop w gas pistins, door pop using "Balls" actuators.
>And of course, don't forget the auto drive to store and pay my bills
option.
>I removed all door and trunk handles and keys. Steel welded in place...
You forgot about the mini pain generating piezo sirens you place on the
INSIDE of the vehicle! I knew a guy who hooked an alarm up in an expensive
Porche. If the thief was able to get inside and close the door dead bolt
type actuators would go through the door jam and into the body portion of
the car (preventing the car door from being opened). 4 pain generating
sirens would then start to go off inside the car. I asked why he would want
this because the thief would end up destroying the car trying to get out.
He replied with something like the guy who he did it for had lots of $$$ and
didn't really care... he just wanted to make the thief wish he had never
tried to break into *his* car.
James
I like this Idea ! ! ! ! :)
Brent Franker wrote:
>
> You forgot about the mini pain generating piezo sirens you place on the
> INSIDE of the vehicle! I knew a guy who hooked an alarm up in an expensive
> Porche. If the thief was able to get inside and close the door dead bolt
> type actuators would go through the door jam and into the body portion of
> the car (preventing the car door from being opened). 4 pain generating
> sirens would then start to go off inside the car. I asked why he would want
> this because the thief would end up destroying the car trying to get out.
> He replied with something like the guy who he did it for had lots of $$$ and
> didn't really care... he just wanted to make the thief wish he had never
> tried to break into *his* car.
>
sammy_b
On 21 Apr 1998 01:24:11 GMT, jmust...@aol.com (JMustang90) wrote:
>>Just wondering if the GM factory alarm w/ the "theft Pass" key is good
>>enough security for the car? Is it worth investing in an aftermarket
>>alarm system for my car?
>
>I've had two cars stolen from me, so I'm a big advocate of the best security
>system(s) you can buy .. I'm curious whether the pass-key system works, but as
>far as the factory alarm, I'd bet it would only stop joyriders. Reason being,
>anyone who buys the shop manual for GM cars knows exactly how to disarm the
>alarm and where all the pieces of it are. After all, repair people need to
>know in case it malfunctions, so what is to stop a thief from reading the same
>material? or for that matter, a GM repair person from stealing a GM car?
Allthough the security systems produced today by GM are far from the
best anti-theft systems on the market, one has to admit that they
have stepped up a tad and finally produced one that is at least
"half-decent".
GM's system is actually designed by Code-Alarm. The pass-key system
is their own, I think. Together they provide better than average
deterence for most slime bucket joy riders on crack.
Having the unfortunate opportunity to have spent the first 12 years
of my pointless existence in electronics retail (which I am glad to
say I've left behind 2 years ago), I spent more money than necessary
on the "latest and greatest" auto-security devices, gizmo's, bells,
back up batteries, and the like. ...The point is, (to make a long
story longer) An old saying comes to mind, "If someone really wants
your car,.. they will get it no matter what you do". Sure it sounds
like a thread killer, but the best defense I've found is to spend all
your money on NOISE!. Hidden piezos with concealled lithium backups,
Extra 150 db air-horns stashed in the undercarrige or frame. This is
your cheapest and best bet.
Oh, by the way,...Does anybody think the 93-97 Camaro and Firebirds
have a point of vulnerability for popping the hood? Look along
the front drivers side of the engine compartment and find the hood
release cable and tell me you can't stick a slim-jim between the hood
and fender and hook the cable and pull hard;thus popping the latch??
Just wondering, I think I'll move the cable lower anyway,,
SB
MACXCRM114
This may seem obvious to some of you, but the VATS system can be bypassed.
While this info doesn't help thieves much, it's a good money saving repair.
Recently a '91 Firebird was towed in to the shop with a no start. After
tracing the problem to faulty lock cylinder contacts, I made an estimate for
the customer that was roughly $200. It included a new cylinder, two keys, diag
time, and labor. Turns out the person was a student without much money, so I
came up with a cheaper way. I pulled the steering wheel and wiring cuff,
measured the resistance of the existing key, cut the thin yellow wires off the
cylinder and soldered a matching resistor inline. When put back together,
worked like a charm. Charged $75 and the customer was thrilled. Even comes
back for sceduled service maintenance now.
RoyCR5
MACXCRM114 wrote in message
<199805050405...@ladder01.news.aol.com>...
If you ever need to do this again, It's easier to cut the wires first and
measure resistance at the wires with the key in. Solder the resister in and
your done.
Roy
Waffle
RoyCR5 wrote in message <6imevj$5cg$1...@brnws01.ne.mediaone.net>...
But sure it is cheap but mind you it defeats the purpose of having an
anit-theft product to begin with anyways, better yet to stop theft just yank
your wires of your spark plugs , hehehe - joke ...