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Clone from one pictiure to another

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Bruce.

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Apr 17, 2008, 4:05:07 PM4/17/08
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PhotoShop Elements 6

Say I have 2 pictures of 2 people. In one picture, person A has their eyes
open. In picture 2, person B has their eyes open.

What I would like to be able to do (and could do in PhotoImpact) is use the
clone stamp to copy the the eyes of person A from picture 1 to picture 2,
resulting in a combined photo with both person's eyes open.

I know how to clone from one part of a photo to another spot in the same
photo, but how can I clone from one picture to another?

Thanks for any help.

Bruce.


Charley

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Apr 18, 2008, 9:31:43 AM4/18/08
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Clone is the wrong tool for this.

Instead, you should make a selection of the area that you want to copy (with
a few pixels of feathering) and then copy and paste this selected area to
the other photograph. The eyes will then be on a new layer on top of the
photo so that you can use the move tool to position them, then transform or
free transform to resize or skew them, etc. Then make whatever slight
changes in color, etc. that may be necessary to make them match the photo
underneath. By having the eyes on a new layer you can make any adjustments
that may be necessary without it affecting the photo underneath. If you mess
up you can even trash the layer and start over again. When you get it right
you can flatten it, merging the layer into the photo or just save it with
the added layer, just in case you may want to go back and make more changes.

Charley


"Bruce." <no...@example.net> wrote in message
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Bruce.

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Apr 19, 2008, 12:53:15 AM4/19/08
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"Charley" <cl...@carolina.rr.com> wrote in message
news:4808a2cb$0$5719$4c36...@roadrunner.com...

> Clone is the wrong tool for this.
>
> Instead, you should make a selection of the area that you want to copy
> (with
> a few pixels of feathering) and then copy and paste this selected area to
> the other photograph. The eyes will then be on a new layer on top of the
> photo so that you can use the move tool to position them, then transform
> or
> free transform to resize or skew them, etc. Then make whatever slight
> changes in color, etc. that may be necessary to make them match the photo
> underneath. By having the eyes on a new layer you can make any adjustments
> that may be necessary without it affecting the photo underneath. If you
> mess
> up you can even trash the layer and start over again. When you get it
> right
> you can flatten it, merging the layer into the photo or just save it with
> the added layer, just in case you may want to go back and make more
> changes.

Thank you very much for explaining the best way to do this. Your way sounds
much more flexible and adjustable that a straight cloning would me.

I haven't done much with layers but this is a good reason to start. Thanks!

Bruce.


Charley

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Apr 19, 2008, 10:52:53 AM4/19/08
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"Bruce." <no...@example.net> wrote in message
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Bruce,

Think of a layer as a sheet of clear plastic that you lay over your photo.
You can then add pieces of other photos, or adjustments on top of your photo
and nothing that you do on the layer will permanently affect the photo
that's underneath. This lets you do all kinds of experiments, etc. without
having to start over, because you can put each experiment on it's own layer,
then turn on or off whatever layers that you want, then print the result.
You can even go pack and make later changes to a layer after you have added
more layers on top of it. Whatever layers that you leave turned on is what
prints. If you use the "flatten" command it will squish all of the layers
(that are turned on) down into a single layer and reduce the digital size of
the photo. The only problem with this is that you cannot make any further
changes to your layers, since the information is now no longer separated
from the photo. So, when you flatten, save it as a new file and keep a copy
of your layered version for possible future changes. Some of the photos that
I have worked on have had in excess of 100 layers before completion. This
can become a bit of an organizational problem, but with practice it becomes
relatively easy to handle. I've been using Photoshop for about 15 years now
for commercial photo retouching and composites. It just takes practice. Take
the time to learn from tutorials and practice, practice, practice, and you
will become very capable of doing this in a very short time.

Charley


Bruce.

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Apr 19, 2008, 3:13:14 PM4/19/08
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"Charley" <cl...@carolina.rr.com> wrote in message
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That's a great explanation Charley. I've started playing with layers, and
have been able to copy a face from one photo to another as a layer, making
lighting and sizing changes needed. It's pretty cool.

I also bought PhotoShop Elements 6 for Dummies and plan to read the chapter
on layers first. All in all I'm really impressed with PSE 6. The last time
I looked was PSE 2 and it just wasn't powerful enough at the time. PSE 6
seems much closer to what I need in an editor.

One question. When I select and copy the face from the first photo, I know
I can apply feathering at that time. However, once I paste it in to a new
photo (as a layer) can I further refine the featuring at that time or am I
stuck with the feathering I did when I made the selection copy?

Bruce.


Charley

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Apr 20, 2008, 12:22:13 PM4/20/08
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"Bruce." <no...@example.net> wrote in message
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The best way is to trash the layer, change the feathering setting and try
again. Everything else takes longer. A soft edge eraser can be used for
minor problems but it's not easy to do the whole edge, much faster to do
over.

Charley


Bruce.

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Apr 20, 2008, 4:03:08 PM4/20/08
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"Charley" <cl...@carolina.rr.com> wrote in message
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> One question. When I select and copy the face from the first photo, I
> know
>> I can apply feathering at that time. However, once I paste it in to a
>> new
>> photo (as a layer) can I further refine the featuring at that time or am
>> I
>> stuck with the feathering I did when I made the selection copy?
>>
>> Bruce.
>>
>>
>
> The best way is to trash the layer, change the feathering setting and try
> again. Everything else takes longer. A soft edge eraser can be used for
> minor problems but it's not easy to do the whole edge, much faster to do
> over.
>
> Charley

Ok, thanks much for the advice. I'm sure after a while I'll get a better
feel for how much feathering to do as I select items.

Thanks Charley.

Bruce.


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