Stanchion Base Removal
Matthew Davidson
Hello P-Owners
I just pulled all of our Stanchion bases off of the Bulwarks. We are Repainting again after The Interlux Bright-Sides failed on our 1st effort. Really weak deck paint. Had Micro blisters after the winter season of weathering.
Since we have a blank canvas after restoring the deck from the fire of 2 years ago... we are going to remove all of the deck mounted fittings, re-sand the deck, and install raised blocks of G-10 at every point on deck and coat with Sherwin Williams Corothane. This paint is really tough... super high solids and cures with ambient moisture... which we have a-plenty in Seattle. I have used it before so have very high confidence in this product. It's an industrial high gloss bridge paint that is tough as nails. A product the Marina Rats here are putting on a lot of boats. Then we will put down 60 grit garnet for nonskid to the old pattern.
After removing the lifeline stanchion bases from the bulwarks... I found two leaky ones. The bedding had obviously failed... especially at the ones next to the port deck drain. Fortunately... all of the bolts came out very easily as who-ever did this last used dolphinite on the bolts with 3M 4000 on the metal face. Actually not a bad combination as the threads did not bind or gall.
Might want to check your Chocks for good bedding seal as well as I'm pretty sure between the Stanchion base, chock and cap rail bedding… these are largely the cause of the tea-staining we all combat. Going to try and clean up the edge of the bulwark/cap rail joint and put a clean bead of Sikaflex 295 down this edge to try and seal from outside weathering.
For now… letting it all dry out. Pulling the Chocks off tonight as the bedding has all cracked and is not tight... hope that goes well?
Lots to do... getting further along on the refit.
Marty McOmber
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Matthew Davidson
I have completed the full removal of all deck mounted hardware on wildflower. All grab rails, safety bars, stanchions, cleats, chocks... everything. Was not bad at all. The key is a heatgun + a very hot puddy knife and a heavy push or bump with a hammer to work the knife under eack part. Infact this is key to getting the chocks off. By the time i pulled the last chock... I had mastered the process with no ill side effect on any of them. Same is true for pulling the teak grab rails. Learned how to very carefully remove teak plugs to get to slotted screws for removal. Very happy with outcome.
I did discover one of the biggest causes of tea staining. Water is migrating down over top of cap rail down to both inside and outside edges where wood meets fiberglass on bull Wark. Also migrating into stanchion bolt holes and around chock bedding. Found water leaking out at a number of locations but no rot!!! Letting it all dry out at this point. Going to cut a small 1/8"w x 1/8"deep drip groove under each side of Top cap the length of caprail... just a smidgen off the glass to stop water from rounding to the bull wark this will force drips to stop and drop. Will also add a clean sikaflex 295 bead along bullwark seam but leave drip groove open. Should help reduce a big percentage of water migration.
Anyway... with everything removed I only had 2 bolts that were problems. 0ne sheared off on one of the aft rail mounts and the other was a spinning captured nut on deck at one mast safety rail base.
We're at 50% sand out and prepping for new coat of deck paint and nonskid.
More to come but please feel free at ask how I pulled any part.