P40 Port Water tank construction material

[John Wither]

As part of the remedial work on a 1984 P40, I believe that my Port water tank has a small pin hole in it, and if experience from when the starboard one went the same, finding and repairing the possibility of ongoing pin holes appearing, it most probably needs replacing.  Has anyone any good/bad words about the various replacement construction materials.  As I’m in Australia your local suppliers are not much help but any experiences of materials would be helpful.

 

Regards

 

John Wither

Perth, Australia.

[psherwood]

In a post a while back someone wrote of using the original tank as an
outer shell for two thick coats of food-grade epoxy on the interior.

Others have replaced the tanks with nylon or plastic tanks of varying
shapes and sizes, to accommodate co-location of a watermaker, etc.

Phil
s/v Cynosure
Seattle / San Carlos

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[Robert C Young]

My first try would be a specialized two part epoxy. Not the stuff at big box stores. Look up two part epoxy at www.mcmaster.com

 

This site has sorting filters for size, tube, cartridges, and even applicable materials such as stainless steel or food grade application. If a tank is really bad, replacement may be the way to go. For a pin-hole, I would try the epoxy route first.

 

This website has a myriad of industrial products and tools. Many have application to our beloved vessels.

 

Regards,

 

Bob

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[Marty McOmber]

Can anyone share their experience with a plastic replacement tank? I'm thinking of going this route to fit a water maker and want to know if there are any downsides to plastic vs stainless tanks. I have a good local company that can build me a new stainless tank. So it really boils down to cost and wether plastic has any issues associated with it (such as taste, etc). 

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[Jim Melton]

John,

I have no idea whether my water (and, for that matter, fuel) tanks or originals or replacements.  I know (but have lost contact with) both of the previous owners and neither one has suggested that they replaced them.

My tanks (two water, two fuel) are made of about 5/16" or possibly 3/8" fiberglass.  I discovered this when I drilled openings in which to install fuel level sensors.  They have never, as far as I can discover, ever leaked.

Both of my water tanks can, I believe, be removed from beneath the settees and carefully removed through the companionway.  Note that I have not actually tested this, nor measured them to confirm.  If your tanks can be removed that easily, then you have several choices for replacements: Stainless steel (probably OK if you make sure that there is no possibility of crevice corrosion from the tanks resting on flat, wet surfaces), aluminum (not a great choice because of the chlorine in public water systems), fiberglass (which you could even make yourself), and bladders (great, especially if you have the bladders sit inside a shape-preserving container, such as a wooden box).

Hope this helps,
   Jim

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[John Baudendistel]

Most water tanks are Ss.  T Some have successfully used food grade silicone and caulked the inside seams all around the tanks.  Usually access ports will have to be installed to do so properly.  Search on the forums.  Many many posts on this topic.  

Most fuel tanks are black iron encased in fiberglass.  

Good luck

Thanks 

John

[Alcoop]

The material I used for coating my leaking tanks is called Brew Coat made by SS Coatings. It is apparently the only FDA approved coating for small tanks although there are some made for larger tanks (1,000gal. Their url is http://sscoatings.net/brewcoat.htm. It was a miserable job requiring cutting 2 additional ports in the tank because of the baffles.

Hope this helps

Allen

s/v Krissy

[Larry Rovin]

When we bought Whisper (#134) I'm 2001 we discovered a pinhole leak in the starboard tank. I don't remember the product that was used, but 16 years later there has been no issue. 

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[Steve Jones]

We went with fiberglass that laid on the hull just above the bilge line.  It increased our capacity and reinforced the hull above the keel.  

CasaMar

P51

[John Baudendistel]

Hi John, 

The P 40 Ss tanks can have problems eventually with the welds.  Either remove and reweld, replace or cut out and create access holes in the top of the tanks.  Clean the welds all around.  Then seal with food grade silicone.  Many have done this successfully.  

Thanks 

John Baudendistel

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[Alcoop]

The tanks can be coated with a product called Brew C (http://sscoatings.net/brewcoat-info.htmoat) which is the only FDA approved coating for small tanks containing potable liquids. Some of the other coatings work in large tanks because the volume dilutes the toxins sufficiently. It costs about $200 and is a bit of a bother to work with but I put two coats around the seams and one coat on the rest of the surfaces. You need to make large ports to work through and closing them is also a bother 

Allen

P40 Krissy