Re: [Passport] Digest for PassportOwners@googlegroups.com - 8 updates in 1 topic

[Robert Settle]

I too removed all the deck hardware on my (Perry Norseman) boat. I was amazed that the yard welder was able to remove many of the bolts and screws -even ones whose heads broke off. He used his TIG torch to quickly weld a nut to the top of the screw head. When even those broke off he welded a pyramid of filler metal to the broken bolt shaft then when it was still hot dropped a nut on top and hit it with a hammer. He then filled in the hole in the nut with more filler. They all came out. All without any damage to the surrounding structures. Even on my aluminum steering pedestal. Simply amazed me.

On Tue, Oct 18, 2016 at 9:16 AM, <Passpor...@googlegroups.com> wrote:

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• jib sheet blocks - 8 Updates

jib sheet blocks

psherwood <p...@witanco.com>: Oct 17 12:05PM -0700 In the cockpit are two two-sheave cheek blocks -- I'm not sure that's the correct name for them -- mounted at the aft end of the coaming on either side. Through them pass the jib sheets on their way forward to their respective winches. Each block is held down by four fairly big, slotted machine screws that are probably threaded into a steel plate embedded in the fiberglass.   Does anyone know the size of the bit to fit that slot, or know the width of the machine screw heads? I'm not near my boat but am hopeful of finding the right tool to take down to San Carlos with me in a couple of weeks and, the gods of older sailboats willing, remove the machine screws so I can repair or replace the blocks. The screws are well and truly frozen; I've soaked the heads in PB Blaster but can't see how to get penetrating oil down to where the threads pass through the plate.   Yesterday I learned of something called a drag link socket, essentially a super-burly flat screwdriver blade that is integral with a 1/2" or 3/8" drive socket. The sockets are available in various sizes, from 5/8" wide to 1 3/8" or more. I'm guessing that an 11/16" blade is about right, but that's just a WAG. My thought is to apply more penetrating oil over the course of a few days, then go at the screws with the correctly-sized bit on an impact driver.   Anyone managed to get those blocks off? Any how-to tips, or hints about which sorts of burnt offerings or sacrificial libations the old-boat gods prefer? Thx,   Phil s/v Cynosure Seattle / San Carlos

Jim Melton <jim.m...@oracle.com>: Oct 17 01:31PM -0600 Phil,   I believe those blocks are called "turning blocks" because of the job they do (turning sheets 180°).   A few years ago, one block out of the two on each side of Dream SeQueL were frozen. Since I was having my boat hauled for a bottom job anyway, I asked my boatyard if they would free up the frozen sheaves or replace the turning blocks or something.   They ended up having to saw the machine screws to remove the blocks, then cut the screw studs at deck level, then drill out the remaining screws. (I don't know if they over-drilled them or not, though.) They installed shiny new Garhauer turning blocks and I was happy.   Sorry I can't help with measurements! Jim     On 2016-10-17 13:05, psherwood wrote:   > Phil > s/v Cynosure > Seattle / San Carlos   -- ======================================================================== Jim Melton --- Editor of ISO/IEC 9075-* (SQL) Phone: +1.801.942.0144 Chair, ISO/IEC JTC1/SC32 and W3C XML Query WG Fax : +1.801.942.3345 Oracle Corporation Oracle Email: jim dot melton at oracle dot com 1930 Viscounti Drive Alternate email: jim dot melton at acm dot org Sandy, UT 84093-1063 USA Personal email: SheltieJim at xmission dot com ======================================================================== = Facts are facts. But any opinions expressed are the opinions = = only of myself and may or may not reflect the opinions of anybody = = else with whom I may or may not have discussed the issues at hand. = ========================================================================

John Baudendistel <jo...@ets247.com>: Oct 17 01:11PM -0700 Phil,   Use heat and a SnapOn quality bit the right size. You will likely need several. And a 10lb sledge hammer with a snap on or Craftsman impact driver. And Patience. They are tapped into steel plates. Don Fife and I were able to remove like 16 -20 of these to remove the traveler. His SnapOn bit broke but they gave him new ones! Good luck.   John B Passport 42

Rob Raymond <wind...@gmail.com>: Oct 17 01:13PM -0700 When we removed everything from the deck in preparation for painting and to re-seal it was a nightmare of frozen bolts and drilling and tapping. Since it all melded together into one terrible job I had to think about this one to single it out.   There would have been a steel plate that the turning blocks screwed into, but it had already been drilled out and backing plates, nuts and washers installed from the inside. Not a big deal on the port side where there as plenty of room, but the starboard side was interesting. Some of the nuts were reached from the quarter berth, and some through the aft anchor locker. My wife's arm was skinny enough to fit through the anchor locker hole to hold the nuts when the cover was removed, and it wasn't easy!   I would avoid twisting off the screws if at all possible. For most of the frozen screws an impact driver worked to loosen them... if they were going to loosen, but with these long screws it may not work so well. If they don't respond to the impact driver, it's possible you could drill the heads off the screws to remove blocks. You'll then have better access to apply lubricant, and perhaps some heat if you're very careful. Use vice grips to turn the screws.   If all else fails there is the procession from left hand drills to easy outs to drilling and re-tapping.

Kenyon Stewart <ken...@sailoutbound.com>: Oct 17 01:21PM -0700 I removed and rebuild them on our 47 a few years ago. The screws were just large flathead machine screws (5/16 or 3/8, the 40 may use smaller). I used a very large flathead screwdriver, a crescent wrench to turn the screwdriver. It took two people, one turning and one applying pressure on the top of the screwdriver. I may have hit it with a manual impact driver a couple of times to help break it loose. Lots of PB Blaster too.   For me, they were much easier than the traveller which I still have a hard time talking about. I now have at least one jib track bolt leaking...   I replaced the flatheads with new phillips and used lots of Tef-gel between the new screws and the aluminum body of the blocks.

Eva <emtbe...@gmail.com>: Oct 17 01:24PM -0700 Hi Phil, As with Jim, we too had our originals drilled out and replaced by our rigger with Harkin I think! Eva   Sent from my iPhone, thus expect the likelihood of miss spells .... Eva ~~ /) ~~

Larry Rovin <lro...@crudenbaypartners.com>: Oct 17 10:00PM Garhauer will make one to fit the hole pattern.   Sent from my iPhone

Verizon <rhp...@verizon.net>: Oct 17 10:20PM -0400 I did that repair several years ago, have since replaced the blocks with Garhauers, so I cannot offer s bolt head size.   To remove mine, I cut off the heads with a dremel, pried off the blocks, then vice gripped to remove the bolts. I reversed the upper and lower plates to conceal marks from the dremel.   Bob Peahl Anthem   Sent from my iPhone

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