P42 [Passport] Rebuilding chainplates questions

[John Baudendistel]

Hi David, 

I updated the subject to show were talking about a P42 as they are entirely different than a P40. Helps with sorting and lookups.   In looking at your photos another way to get to the through bolts is to cut off the bolts from the inside.  Center punch and drill through to the outside the rub rail.  This would give an exact location in the rub rail.  You then could use a "mortise bit" to clean up and drill the rub rail down to the fiberglass allowing new through bolts to be installed.  Then plug with a large teak bung.  

John 

P42 

Dream Keeper.  

On Mon, Jul 7, 2014 at 9:09 AM, David Hartman <hartman...@gmail.com> wrote:

Hi all,

Slowing working through boat projects as I prepare to head off shore toward the end of August.

Finally starting to removing the chain plates on Passport 42 Anahata (el Tiburon) on the weekend. Founds a lot of water in all encapsulated areas of the two I have pulled so far plus the knees completely water logged and need to be replaced. The chainplates themselves show pitting in areas. I have machine shop down the road that will refabricate, my question have to do with details of adding additions through bolts or not. 

From the forum pages I see that China doll did not add addition through additional bolts.

If anyone has any additional ideas or thought I need to consider in the refabrication of the chainplates they would be welcome. I am currently thinking of adding two additional through bolts below the rub rail bolt. I think I read on one of the forum posts about adding shelves to the bolts so one is not compressing the glass. Did people use 5200 to attach new chainplates to hull?

Removing rub rail, does anyone have a good technique for doing it so that I can access the bolts.

As the mast is up while I am doing all of this, it will be a two stage process... remove half, fabricate and install and then do the others.

Hope to finish removing the 6 by tomorrow and begin refabrication by end of the week.

Thanks

David Hartman

 

 

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Thanks, 

John Baudendistel

jo...@ets247.com

[Lou Mcfadden]

I have begun to replace the chainplates on my 1986, 37' (hull #14).  After recaulking them prior, I'm convinced that the only way to stop the water completely is to cut out the deck to the size of the cover plate, create a form or use a make up chainplate to maintain the slot for the plate and fill the space with epoxy thereby creating more friendly caulking surfaces and stronger base.  When I caulked the existing plates last fall I use the metal primer for the boat life product and the caulk made excellent adhesion to the plate, but when I just removed them, it's obvious that the caulk cannot maintain a seal with the surrounding old teak, and thus the leak is between the caulk and the teak.  I want to eliminate that seam by using the technique described above.  Has anyone used this cut-out epoxy method, or have photos of the job?  Most all the knee walls have water, but they appear and behave like they remain very solid.  It appears impossible to rebuild knee walls in my boat without literally removing have the cabintrey in the boat.  I'd like to hear of any steps taken to reduce the water in the knee walls or other tips and problems with this process?

Thanks

Lou McFadden

s/v Black Prince

1986 Passport 37'

[CAZ]

Lou,

When I replaced my chainplates, I enlarged the thru holes as much as possible and also cut away the teak. I added a vertical epoxy wall around each opening to fend off any water running under the deck teak and into the hole. I had to replace one entire knee (totally rotted). The others were still solid but I added a weep hole at the bottom of each to allow water to escape. I bedded the Starboard chainplates with Life Calk. On the Port side I used butyl rubber. I am now closely monitoring the chainplates for any new leaks. So far the butyl tape is winning.

Bill Caz.

s/v P40, Beau Navire

[ga...@sailsidetrack.com]

I did something similar (with great success) with my deck prisms......cut away the teak decking under the flanges of the bronze prism frames (plus a quarter inch for a caulk joint).  For my vertical epoxy wall, I prefabricated reinforced epoxy frames (quarter inch thick) at home, then bonded them to the fiberglass deck around the prism openings at the boat, thus providing space for a proper caulk joint against the teak surrounding the prisms.  Since the prism frames now set on a flat, uniform surface, I put gaskets (plus some butyl tape) under the frame flanges rather than bedding compound.  After two years they have been leak free (no more wet blankets in the aft cabin).  If a leak develops, I will just tighten the screws around the frame to compress the gasket (and cross my fingers) rather than having to rebed with caulking.

Gary Wilson

P42 Sidetrack

[Brian Heineken]

Gary,

Keen for a trip to Hong Kong? I will honestly pay your airfare and all the beers you can drink if you can solve the prism leak problem on my 51. Such a pain in the ass! 

Brian

Eagles Quest 

Sent from my iPhone

[ChinaDoll]

The issue with the deck light leaking is the teak deck and how the lights are designed. You'll have a similar issue with deck fittings like pump out and for water and diesel fills. Water enters anywhere uphill from the deck fitting and runs between the glass deck and the teak and leaks into the fitting and drains inside the boat.

Here's what can be done to fix the issue. For thru deck round fittings, use a toilet tissue roll cardboard insert as a form to build a thicken epoxy raised shaft collar that goes from inside the boat all the way to the teak deck surface. Reseal the fitting which will now be sealed between fitting an the collar, and not just at the collar and teak deck surface. When only sealed at the teak deck surface, water can easily egress between the teak boards and the glass substructure to leak inside the boat.

Exact same issue for the deck lights too. Note the ABI was selling a new deck light kit that fixed this issue just before the shop was closed. There were only s few left in the Downwind Marine Store some years ago that someone bought the whole lot. The new system placed the light in a tray and the tray was sealed to the substructure and not to the teak deck, using the tray. The deck light was then seal directly to the tray. This was a much improved system and if there were any uphill deck leaks, the water could not easily intrude under the teak boards and into the boat.

The best way to fix the issue will be to replace the teak deck with a bonded on deck with no screws and no chance of forming and uphill leak that will simply travel between the wood and subdeck below. In this case the teak boards and the subdeck become one in the same.

-Rob.

[John Baudendistel]

Hi guys.  Note that P40 and P42 chain plates are entirely different.  It would be best to post on each model specific accordingly.  El Tiburon is a Passport 42 which is a Stan Huntingford design.  There are NO knees in a P42.  the chainplates are embedded into the hull.  

John B. 

P42.