jib sheet blocks

[psherwood]

In the cockpit are two two-sheave cheek blocks -- I'm not sure that's
the correct name for them -- mounted at the aft end of the coaming on
either side. Through them pass the jib sheets on their way forward to
their respective winches. Each block is held down by four fairly big,
slotted machine screws that are probably threaded into a steel plate
embedded in the fiberglass.

Does anyone know the size of the bit to fit that slot, or know the width
of the machine screw heads? I'm not near my boat but am hopeful of
finding the right tool to take down to San Carlos with me in a couple of
weeks and, the gods of older sailboats willing, remove the machine
screws so I can repair or replace the blocks. The screws are well and
truly frozen; I've soaked the heads in PB Blaster but can't see how to
get penetrating oil down to where the threads pass through the plate.

Yesterday I learned of something called a drag link socket, essentially
a super-burly flat screwdriver blade that is integral with a 1/2" or
3/8" drive socket. The sockets are available in various sizes, from 5/8"
wide to 1 3/8" or more. I'm guessing that an 11/16" blade is about
right, but that's just a WAG. My thought is to apply more penetrating
oil over the course of a few days, then go at the screws with the
correctly-sized bit on an impact driver.

Anyone managed to get those blocks off? Any how-to tips, or hints about
which sorts of burnt offerings or sacrificial libations the old-boat
gods prefer? Thx,

Phil
s/v Cynosure
Seattle / San Carlos

[Jim Melton]

Phil,

I believe those blocks are called "turning blocks" because of the job
they do (turning sheets 180°).

A few years ago, one block out of the two on each side of Dream SeQueL
were frozen. Since I was having my boat hauled for a bottom job anyway,
I asked my boatyard if they would free up the frozen sheaves or replace
the turning blocks or something.

They ended up having to saw the machine screws to remove the blocks,
then cut the screw studs at deck level, then drill out the remaining
screws. (I don't know if they over-drilled them or not, though.) They
installed shiny new Garhauer turning blocks and I was happy.

Sorry I can't help with measurements!
Jim

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[John Baudendistel]

Phil,

Use heat and a SnapOn quality bit the right size. You will likely need several. And a 10lb sledge hammer with a snap on or Craftsman impact driver. And Patience. They are tapped into steel plates. Don Fife and I were able to remove like 16 -20 of these to remove the traveler. His SnapOn bit broke but they gave him new ones! Good luck.

John B
Passport 42

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[Rob Raymond]

When we removed everything from the deck in preparation for painting and to re-seal it was a nightmare of frozen bolts and drilling and tapping. Since it all melded together into one terrible job I had to think about this one to single it out.

There would have been a steel plate that the turning blocks screwed into, but it had already been drilled out and backing plates, nuts and washers installed from the inside. Not a big deal on the port side where there as plenty of room, but the starboard side was interesting. Some of the nuts were reached from the quarter berth, and some through the aft anchor locker. My wife's arm was skinny enough to fit through the anchor locker hole to hold the nuts when the cover was removed, and it wasn't easy!

I would avoid twisting off the screws if at all possible. For most of the frozen screws an impact driver worked to loosen them... if they were going to loosen, but with these long screws it may not work so well. If they don't respond to the impact driver, it's possible you could drill the heads off the screws to remove blocks. You'll then have better access to apply lubricant, and perhaps some heat if you're very careful. Use vice grips to turn the screws.

If all else fails there is the procession from left hand drills to easy outs to drilling and re-tapping.

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[Kenyon Stewart]

I removed and rebuild them on our 47 a few years ago.  The screws were just large flathead machine screws (5/16 or 3/8, the 40 may use smaller).  I used a very large flathead screwdriver, a crescent wrench to turn the screwdriver.  It took two people, one turning and one applying pressure on the top of the screwdriver.  I may have hit it with a manual impact driver a couple of times to help break it loose.  Lots of PB Blaster too.  

For me, they were much easier than the traveller which I still have a hard time talking about.  I now have at least one jib track bolt leaking...

I replaced the flatheads with new phillips and used lots of Tef-gel between the new screws and the aluminum body of the blocks.  

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[Eva]

Hi Phil,
As with Jim, we too had our originals drilled out and replaced by our rigger with Harkin I think!
Eva

Sent from my iPhone, thus expect the likelihood of miss spells ....
Eva
~~ /) ~~

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[Larry Rovin]

Garhauer will make one to fit the hole pattern.

Sent from my iPhone

[Verizon]

I did that repair several years ago, have since replaced the blocks with Garhauers, so I cannot offer s bolt head size.

To remove mine, I cut off the heads with a dremel, pried off the blocks, then vice gripped to remove the bolts. I reversed the upper and lower plates to conceal marks from the dremel.

Bob Peahl
Anthem

Sent from my iPhone

[psherwood]

Thanks all for the input on getting the turning blocks off; I was afraid
the project would have a heartburn factor as high as everyone reports.
Yeah, my plan is to have Garhauer make something to fit, once I get the
frozen machine screws out. Guido was most helpful with the new traveler
and transition plates for the new rope clutches. Cheers,

Phil
s/v Cynosure
headin' to San Carlos in a couple of weeks

[Michael Moradzadeh]

Once you get the machine screws out, you will be left with a very nicely made foot block.  Clean it up, lube it, and you may be very happy with it.

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[Jeff and Jane Woodward]

Hi Phil,

I meant to answer your post a long time ago.  But things are hectic getting set to get back to the boat in San Carlos.

We took our blocks off the first time in 2006.  Can't recall the whole procedure, but I don't remember it as being as bad as getting the traveler off.  Lots of penetrating oil, impact screwdriver, and some heat from a small pencil flame butane torch.  Of course be cautious of not getting the fiberglass too hot.

Once off the boat, disassembly of the blocks is pretty straight forward.  The outside of our blocks are in pretty good shape.  To disassemble you just take off the slot screw and cover, and drive the pin out.  Be careful.  Between the pin and the inside of the sheaves are a bunch of loose needle bearings.  About 25 on each sheave if memory serves.  Most of my needle bearings were in good shape.  But about 10 of them had significant rust and corrosion.

I shopped all over the place trying to purchase replacement bearings.  No joy.  I considered replacing my foot blocks with Garhauer.  But other purchases ate up the kitty and so far I've gotten satisfactory service out of the originals by annual disassembly, cleaning and lube.

We are packed and ready to start the annual migration south.  Tuesday morning is blast off to begin the drive south.

Jeff

Adagio, P-40 #109, 1986

On the hard San Carlos, Mexico

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From: passpor...@googlegroups.com <passpor...@googlegroups.com> on behalf of psherwood <p...@witanco.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 18, 2016 10:04 AM
To: Passport Owners
Subject: Re: [Passport] jib sheet blocks

 

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[Chris - Pelican]

FYI - The originals were Schaefer. They used to have them on their website but seem to have pulled them down in the past year. I expect they probably still have them. I think they retailed for around $1200-$1400.

Here are their current foot blocks. https://hardware.schaefermarine.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=91_92

Chris

s/v/ Pelican

Passport 40 #76