P40 steel punchings

[John Baudendistel]

Hi Jim, 

Review through the archives.  Many have tackled this.  Talk to Don F. of Bugler or Craig Newton of Mujo.  Both have removed as many as 20-50 of pounds of steel punches.   Basically you cut the floor in front of the starboard settee with a Fein Tool.  You can re-use the teak if your careful.  Go the full length from the nav station to the head depending on your configuration.  We used an impact chisel with Mujo which worked well.  Use a small air compressor and an air chisel and it breaks up pretty easily.  Once you clear the first few inches you can then reach up with the tool.  We used a Harbor Freight air impact tool with the shortest drivers.  It is very flat and compact.  

Do you see signs of the cabin sole or settee rising? 

I changed the subject to reflect the topic. 

Good luck!

John B. 

Dream Keeper 

P42. 

On Tue, Mar 21, 2017 at 6:31 PM, 'Jim Henerberry' via Passport Owners <Passpor...@googlegroups.com> wrote:

Hello Passporters,

Jim from the Lottie B here again.  I filled the water tanks and there are signs that the water is pooling again under the chart table.  So, it seems there is a leak in the starboard tank.  There is no discernible trail from the tanks to the sole, so the route remains a mystery.  

I do believe I will cut away the sole and I am fully aware of the ballast punchings from past posts, along with finding bits of the punchings which have migrated out from their hiding place.  Does anyone have any suggestions on the safest method of cutting away the sole (so as not to put a hole in the hull)?  From the hole I drilled, I can see two layers of plywood each probably 3/4" thick.  I figure I'll replace it with some teak and holly faced plywood which is available through Boutler Plywood a local concern which is boater friendly.  They ship nationally, so look them up if you do not have a local supplier of marine plywood.  They have treated me well, if a little gruffly at times.

Thanks again for all the feedback,

Jim

On Saturday, March 18, 2017 at 9:55:24 AM UTC-4, Jim Henerberry wrote:

Hello Passport Aficionados,

I'm puzzling through moisture that has built up and saturated the small sole area under the chart table.  I have the forward facing chart table with seat aft and about two square feet of sole forward of the seat under the chart table.

Here is an excerpt from my maintenance log (I keep a spreadsheet where I track my work):

"Noticed twice this winter pooling fluid on the sole under the chart table.  It tasted like antifreeze so I thought it was leaking from the heating system.  It was also collecting under the chart table seat, so I dismantled the blower box shelf.  While I did find evidence of pooled fluid, I found no evidence of a leak form the heating system.  I did tighten the hose clamps.  A few days later, the fluid was still apparent at the joint between the sole and the first ceiling strip under the chart table.  I carefully removed the first ceiling strip and found rotted wood and fluid built up.  Melissa and I removed the rot and cleaned/dried the area with paper towels.  Fluid continued to ooze into the open area, so I drilled a 1" hole in one of the teak strips on the sole.  It pretty quickly began to fill with fluid and filled to about 1/4" with fluid overnight.  I dried that out and when returned to the boat there was another 1/4" of fluid and the edges of the hole are wet.  Two things: 1.  Where is the fluid coming from?  My best guess is from the genny track on the deck.  I'll remove the overhead to check this out.  2. What to do about the saturated sole.  I want to cut out a piece and replace it, but not sure yet.  Will ask list.

I know well enough that leaks can be miles away from where we find their evidence.  Do you think it's possible that there would be no signs of a deck leak up high and only the collection of fluid down low?  When I replaced the genny tracks in 2015 and one of the screws in that area would not tighten.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Jim

1987, P40, Lottie B, #123

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Thanks, 

John Baudendistel

jo...@ets247.com

[Marty McOmber]

I second all of those tips. I was able to reuse the section of soul I cut out. The Fein Multimaster with a new, fine wood saw blade, and patience work well.  If you need to cut along a section, follow the edge of the holly. 

The only way I found to get the punchings out was using a compressor-powered impact chisel. It was still messy work. So when you get to that stage, make sure you seal the area you are working in with plastic all the way to the overhead -- unless you want dust everywhere. Trust me. You'll probably find that the punchings are covered with a layer of fiberglass and set in a slurry of epoxy.  Yeah, that was not fun. But it sure was satisfying to get them all out of there. 

To replace the soul, you can scarf in some cleats around the edge of the cutout -- epoxied in place for strength. I then epoxied the soul down on those and screwed in place. Covered the screws with bungs and then refinished it all. You can hardly see the repair. And since the area I worked in was under the nav station, I wasn't too worried about a lot of weight being put on the soul, although I think it would hold up fine. 

I have replacement of the water tanks on my refit list for next winter. I suspect a previous owner did some spot repairs to stop the leak in my starboard tank. But I also want to have a different tank configuration so I can install a water maker in the same area. I will have to give up some capacity for this, but I will also be able to generate by own water, so I'm okay with that. 

Any thoughts on replacing tanks with stainless or plastic?  And has anyone just epoxied the interior of the tank to stop or prevent leaks?  I might do that on the port side. 

On Tue, Mar 21, 2017 at 7:47 PM, John Baudendistel <jo...@ets247.com> wrote:

Hi Jim, 

Review through the archives.  Many have tackled this.  Talk to Don F. of Bugler or Craig Newton of Mujo.  Both have removed as many as 20-50 of pounds of steel punches.   Basically you cut the floor in front of the starboard settee with a Fein Tool.  You can re-use the teak if your careful.  Go the full length from the nav station to the head depending on your configuration.  We used an impact chisel with Mujo which worked well.  Use a small air compressor and an air chisel and it breaks up pretty easily.  Once you clear the first few inches you can then reach up with the tool.  We used a Harbor Freight air impact tool with the shortest drivers.  It is very flat and compact.  

Do you see signs of the cabin sole or settee rising? 

I changed the subject to reflect the topic. 

Good luck!

John B. 

Dream Keeper 

P42. 

On Tue, Mar 21, 2017 at 6:31 PM, 'Jim Henerberry' via Passport Owners <PassportOwners@googlegroups.com> wrote:

Hello Passporters,

Jim from the Lottie B here again.  I filled the water tanks and there are signs that the water is pooling again under the chart table.  So, it seems there is a leak in the starboard tank.  There is no discernible trail from the tanks to the sole, so the route remains a mystery.  

I do believe I will cut away the sole and I am fully aware of the ballast punchings from past posts, along with finding bits of the punchings which have migrated out from their hiding place.  Does anyone have any suggestions on the safest method of cutting away the sole (so as not to put a hole in the hull)?  From the hole I drilled, I can see two layers of plywood each probably 3/4" thick.  I figure I'll replace it with some teak and holly faced plywood which is available through Boutler Plywood a local concern which is boater friendly.  They ship nationally, so look them up if you do not have a local supplier of marine plywood.  They have treated me well, if a little gruffly at times.

Thanks again for all the feedback,

Jim

On Saturday, March 18, 2017 at 9:55:24 AM UTC-4, Jim Henerberry wrote:

Hello Passport Aficionados,

I'm puzzling through moisture that has built up and saturated the small sole area under the chart table.  I have the forward facing chart table with seat aft and about two square feet of sole forward of the seat under the chart table.

Here is an excerpt from my maintenance log (I keep a spreadsheet where I track my work):

"Noticed twice this winter pooling fluid on the sole under the chart table.  It tasted like antifreeze so I thought it was leaking from the heating system.  It was also collecting under the chart table seat, so I dismantled the blower box shelf.  While I did find evidence of pooled fluid, I found no evidence of a leak form the heating system.  I did tighten the hose clamps.  A few days later, the fluid was still apparent at the joint between the sole and the first ceiling strip under the chart table.  I carefully removed the first ceiling strip and found rotted wood and fluid built up.  Melissa and I removed the rot and cleaned/dried the area with paper towels.  Fluid continued to ooze into the open area, so I drilled a 1" hole in one of the teak strips on the sole.  It pretty quickly began to fill with fluid and filled to about 1/4" with fluid overnight.  I dried that out and when returned to the boat there was another 1/4" of fluid and the edges of the hole are wet.  Two things: 1.  Where is the fluid coming from?  My best guess is from the genny track on the deck.  I'll remove the overhead to check this out.  2. What to do about the saturated sole.  I want to cut out a piece and replace it, but not sure yet.  Will ask list.

I know well enough that leaks can be miles away from where we find their evidence.  Do you think it's possible that there would be no signs of a deck leak up high and only the collection of fluid down low?  When I replaced the genny tracks in 2015 and one of the screws in that area would not tighten.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Jim

1987, P40, Lottie B, #123

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Thanks, 

John Baudendistel

jo...@ets247.com

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Marty McOmber 

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