Cockpit inlay and Helm cockpit fillers

[jhene...@yahoo.com]

Hello Passporters,

I'm currently reefing the seams in the cockpit sole and rebuilding the pedestal attachment on a 1987 Passport 40, hull #123.  The plywood coring under the pedestal was nothing but mush due to years of leaking.

As part of the whole job (I did the deck seams and bungs last year) I'm also reefing the inlaid teak on the coamings and seats where I've found heavily rusted metal staples holding the inlay in place.  They are so badly rusted they have pushed all the caulking out above them.  I'm simply puling the staples and routing out the old dead caulking.  Does anyone have experience with whether this will allow the inlaid teak to "pop" out after they are reseamed?  Do I need to mechanically refasten them?

On a related topic, on some boats I inspected while shopping for my boat (a 20 year adventure), I saw teak fill ins for the space between the forward cockpit seats and the aft lazarette tops outboard of the wheel.  I would really like some of those and they did not come with my boat.  I could build them, but would much rather find a set already made.  Do any of you have a set to pass on (I'll pay)?  Or, are there any plans or other sources around for these.  I'm very handy and have done all my own work, but finish carpentry is just not my main line.

Jim

[Michael Moradzadeh]

Jim, I have a set of fill-ins that I'd be happy to photograph for you, though I plan to pass on to the next owner of Cayenne.

Michael

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[Rob Raymond]

As part of the refit on our '84 Passport 40 we completely removed what was left of the teak in the inlays. I'm hoping to get started on replacing the teak next week... it's been quite a process.

We only came across a few staples in the inlays. Most of the teak was not held in place by the staples, just the areas of questionable adhesion. If your inlays are the same as ours, the teak is epoxied in, supported by fiberglass stringers that were part of the deck. Removing the teak was a real PITA, as it was well stuck.

[Jim Melton]

Michael,

By all means, please do photograph those fill-ins and post them to the 
group!

Thanks!!
    Jim

[Jim Melton]

Don,

MANY thanks for the photos!  First, I see why it is tedious and time-consuming.  But I also see how gorgeous the results are.  I don't have ready access to a table saw, so milling my own boards from bulk teak will require some creativity and/or money, but I'm inclined to think that the result will be well worth it.

One more question, do you plan to leave the new inlays "naked", varnish them, or coat them in some other way?

Thanks again!
   Jim

On 3/19/2015 8:52 PM, Don Fife wrote:

Sorry Jim, I didn’t hit the reply to all. I think these pictures may serve a purpose of “don’t try this at home unless you love wood working”

These teak inlays may be one of the most incredibly difficult to understand “why did they do this” for P 40’s

I milled my own teak boards from bulk (with the help of my apprentice WoodWorker Johnny B.) and saved mega bucks. If these pics go through you will see that it is time consuming and fairly patient work. The reward exceeds the original product. Those who are retired, patient and love wood working can do this. Don SV Bugler

[Jim Henerberry]

Hello Don and Jim,

I didn't get the photos of the inlays so I'm not sure of which ones we're talking about. 

Are they pictures of the filler "grates" that go between the cockpit seats and lazarette to create "one-level living" in the cockpit.

Or, are we talking about the teak inlays into the cockpit coamings and seats.

I'm just in from another session of reefing seams with my trusty little Makita router.  I've found this the most efficient way to get out old caulking and, once I discovered it (don't ask what I was doing before, it's embarrassing) used it for the bulk of the deck seams last year.  I tried it with a jig, but found that running freehand was much quicker and more reliable.  On the deck I have a number of j-hook errors where the router went a little screwy, but they are not apparent unless you are looking for them.  After bunging, seaming and sanding, the deck is like new with all that weathered teak grain down flat again.  Since I believe the deck was never worked on before, I still have plenty og thickness left and once I treat it (see next paragraph), should be able to keep it going indefinitely.  Although I'm still chasing a starboard main chainplate leak. 

Before the winter cover comes off (I'm located near Boston, MA), I'm planning on sealing the deck with several coats of Sikkens (also known as Cetol).  I've used it before and will never go back to varnish.  The Sikkens remains "breathable" and sort of soft, so it gives good footing, protects the wood from wear, and, unless it's left for a very long time, never peels away like varnish.  It's very easy to work with because it's not sensitive to humidity when applying.  It can be put on thick and recoated without sanding after 24 hours and within something like seven days, so you just keep coating until you've got what you want.  To my eye, as long as you use the natural Teak (the original is way too orangy for me), it's gorgeous and leaves the teak a deep lustrous brown.  Season after season it wears away a little like bottom paint and touch ups only require light sanding and dash it on.   And, no, I'm not a rep for the company, just a satisfied used. 

Anyway, back to the grates.  Is that what your pictures are of?  Or are they of the inlays?  My inlays feel like they are stuck in there well enough just for me to reef and reseam.  That's my current plan.  After seaming and sanding them back to new teak, I will finish them with Sikkens as described above and eventually I'll Sikkens the caprail, eyebrow, and handrails.

Great to be in this discussion.  I've done bunches more such as building a water catcher at the base of the mast (keel stepped) that collects the drippings and funnels them into the shower sump.  I'm going to plumb the ice box drain into the sump one of these days too.  As with most of us, my list of upgrades is too long to recount, so I'll just keep an eye out and jump in when I think I can help.

Thanks guys,

Jim

Lottie B

1987, Hull 123
 

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From: Jim Melton <Shelt...@xmission.com>
To: Don Fife <state...@sbcglobal.net>; 'Jim Melton' <Shelt...@xmission.com>; Passpor...@googlegroups.com
Sent: Friday, March 20, 2015 6:37 PM

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[jhene...@yahoo.com]

Michael,

Yes, please do post pictures.  Something showing the bottoms would be most helpful so I can see fastening options.

Another thought:  if anyone is up here in he Northeast (Boston, MA) and would let me borrow a set to get dimensions, that would be great.

Jim

Lottie B

1987 Hull #123

[Matthew Davidson]

I am seeking feed back in the form of pictures of the filler "grates" or other ideas that go between the cockpit seats and lazarette to create "one-level living" in the cockpit?

All ideas are on the table... please send pictures to my personal email: mat...@anteccorporation.com

[Michael Moradzadeh]

Gary King has the ones from Cayenne.  Gary?

On Tue, Jul 17, 2018 at 11:18 AM, Matthew Davidson <mat...@anteccorporation.com> wrote:

I am seeking feed back in the form of pictures of the filler "grates" or other ideas that go between the cockpit seats and lazarette to create "one-level living" in the cockpit?

All ideas are on the table... please send pictures to my personal email: mat...@anteccorporation.com

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[CAZ]

Mathew, I have a pair of grated inserts built out of teak on Beau Navire. I will take some pics & send them to you this week-end.

Capt. Bill Caz.

P40, Beau Navire

On Tuesday, July 17, 2018 at 1:18:10 PM UTC-5, Matthew Davidson wrote: