Original Interior Teak Finish

[Larry Lewis]

Hello!"
We're about to embark on some interior refreshment on Thalia, our 1985 P40, hull no. 093. We've "heard" that the original finish was a hand rubbed wax. Some of the interior teak has been treated with a gloss varnish which does not look great. We've got a few areas that the varnish has peeled in places.

It also appears that the salon table was refinished at some point with poly, as it is chipping in places. Any reason to not use varnish on the table?

If the original finish was wax, is there a recommended prep before applying varnish?

We've touched up a few places with Epifanes "Rubbed Effect Varnish". And although it was a bit of a pain to apply, it looks pretty close to original teak areas.

Any thoughts or recommendations?

Thanks,

-- Larry Lewis

[Brian Heineken]

Hi Larry,

We've done a lot of exterior varnish on EQ during our first year and I've been looking at the interior and pondering the same questions you have. I also have a couple spots that are peeling and have thought that a matte finish might be a better choice. Either way, because we don't know what exactly was applied previously I believe that the only right and lasting option is a complete strip down to bare teak. Then I'll apply exterior grade 2-pack. I've been warned by many with more experience than I have to not go cheap on an "interior" varnish for the inside but use the most durable exterior varnish possible. We know that 2-pack doesn't bond well with single pack underneath it so I'll be stripping all the way back to bare teak to make sure it's done correctly. It will be a big job but the results will be beautiful and long lasting, I believe. We've had excellent success applying the varnish very thin on the initial coats and slowly working our way to straight varnish. We did this :
1st two coats - 75%varnish 25% thinner
2nd and 3rd coats 50-50
Then 75-25 for a good coat and then straight varnish up to as many coats as you can stand. If the varnish completely dries overnight then start the next day with a very light sand and one or two more coats at 50-50 before you're back to 100% varnish.

To avoid peeling and imperfections in the future much seems to depend on preparation and patience building up a great base. With a good quality 2-pack built up to 7-10 layers I would think you'd only need a few maintenance coats every two or three years or so to keep you looking in show-boat condition.

Best of luck and send pics of the before and after!!

Brian
P-51 Eagles Quest

Sent from my iPhone

> --
> --
> Passport Owners Association http://passportyachts.org
> To post to the group, use "reply all" or send email to Passpor...@googlegroups.com
> To reply to just the author, just use "reply:
> For more options, go to
> http://groups.google.com/group/PassportOwners?hl=en
> ---
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Passport Owners" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to PassportOwner...@googlegroups.com.
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

[William Foster]

[Bette Reuter]

I once spoke to Tom Wagner's other half, Tom was expert on exterior Passport works and his other half had the interiors. Our P40 is #66 from 1984.

She said the interiors of that vintage were simple Minwax polyurethane clear satin. I had a few repairs spots to do and a rebuild of the 

microwave and adjacent galley storage cabinet to coat up. The simple Minwax did the trick and looked just like the rest of the interior. As with 

all coatings, try a sample first or an inconspicuous spot before committing your whole project.

Bette

SV Iemanja

[William Foster]

Hello All,

Accidently deleted my message, trying again.

I believe Thom Wagner told me long ago that the interior finish was Minwax rubbed varnish and I've used it and it does seem to match well enough. I have also used Epiphanes rubbed alone and over their gloss as they recommend. The former is much thinner in consistency.

I did refinish the dinette table with epiphanies gloss which I hand rubbed out which due the angles of the grain with the inlay was difficult to make flawless. Using the flat rubbed effect for the last coat probably would have been smart.

I can't imagine that wax alone will work on any wood with grain that must be filled and leveled. Dust is the constant enemy no matter.

 

Bill Foster

S/V Magico  P37 Hull 11

 

 

Hello!"
We're about to embark on some interior refreshment on Thalia, our 1985
P40, hull no. 093. We've "heard" that the original finish was a hand rubbed wax.
Some of the interior teak has been treated with a gloss varnish which does not
look great. We've got a few areas that the varnish has peeled in places. 

It
also appears that the salon table was refinished at some point with poly, as it
is chipping in places. Any reason to not use varnish on the table?

If the
original finish was wax, is there a recommended prep before applying
varnish?

We've touched up a few places with Epifanes  "Rubbed Effect
Varnish". And although it was a bit of a pain to apply, it looks pretty close to
original teak areas. 

Any thoughts or recommendations?

Thanks,

  --
Larry Lewis

-- 
-- 
Passport Owners Association

[ChinaDoll]

i had posted to an answer to a similar question on the Passport forum some years ago on the same subject with a response similar to this one. about 15 years ago we used an overcoat of seafin on the interior's varnished finish. but not just any can, it has to be a fresh can so that the jap dryer is in good shape. since then we've cleaned with orange oil. the seafin over coating has kept the original varnish in great shape and it gave the interior a 'just-varnished' look... someone else posted they'd tried a similar product but without luck. it's important to use the seafin and a new never-opened fresh can (read: small new unopened container) otherwise the jap dryer is not in good shape and the overcoating will not dry hard and may become gummy.

[Larry Lewis]

Thanks everyone for sharing your knowledge, experience and recommendations!

-- Larry
S/V Thalia 1985 P40 Hull # 093

[Tccbowie]

I typically sand the repairs, 150 then 220 grit sand paper then use the gloss Wipe on Poly by Minwax, excellent results.  You can't see the repairs.  I have also used this product for finishing furniture with excellent results as well.  

Tim

S/V Osprey, Passport 40, 1982