Teak Deck removal Process

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John Wither

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Mar 8, 2017, 7:16:00 PM3/8/17
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Like other Passport 40 owners I have come to the time in the boats life where the teak deck needs to be replaced, or removed.   I have found a couple of posts on repairing, however my deck is beyond help.

Some years ago one of the members of the Passport Association posted a very good article on the “Teak Deck Removal Process” including photo’s of the process.  I thought I had saved it for future use however I cannot find where I saved it to.  Can anyone please advise me where I can find the article.  I have done a quick search of the google group posts but was unable to find it.

 

Regards

 

John Wither

Perth, Australia

Wayfarer, 1984 P40.

psherwood

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Mar 8, 2017, 7:35:20 PM3/8/17
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There may be others as well, but here's some documentation of what I
did: http://witanco.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=25

It starts with a longish text about the process; scroll down to get to
the first of four batches of pix. I'm not sure if the ftp download still
works (I've been through a bunch of sturm und drang with my web host).
If you want the text in a separate document but have no luck with the
ftp, let me know and I'll get the doc to you.

Happy to answer as best I can any questions you may have.

Phil
s/v Cynosure
Seattle / San Carlos
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Marty McOmber

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Mar 8, 2017, 8:23:39 PM3/8/17
to psherwood, John Wither, Passport Owners
I wrote about our deck removal process a few years ago on Three Sheets Northwest:  http://www.threesheetsnw.com/blog/2012/10/the-passport-project-part-15-deck-worries/

There are three parts to this, the link above is to the first of the stories.


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Marty McOmber

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Mar 8, 2017, 8:28:00 PM3/8/17
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Bette Reuter

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Mar 11, 2017, 4:47:23 PM3/11/17
to Marty McOmber, psherwood, John Wither, Passport Owners
Hi to all, 
We took the teak decks off Iemanja close to 10 years ago. Things to consider are a raised support for the jib track (use G10 to raise it up in the air, and put in cuts or breaks so that water can drain from behind the jib track), and consider how to handle the openings for the chainplates (use G10 to build these up off the deck surface for better drainage away), and consider putting your new non-skid (whatever you choose) a little elevated from the non-teaked surface (use fiberglass fabric that not only covers all the filled in screw/bung holes but also makes the new non-skid a little proud off the deck). The latter is cool to do in the same outline as the teak was. Keeps the deck looking like a Passport.

We also used G10 in various thicknesses to raise up turn-blocks, cleats, hatches, winches, so that water has a harder time to enter. 

Be patient tearing off the wood. Find a friend who might want that old teak.

Bette Reuter
SV Iemanja
P40

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Bette Reuter

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Mar 12, 2017, 3:47:04 PM3/12/17
to John Wither, passpor...@googlegroups.com, Marty McOmber, Phil Sherwood
Hi to all,
We started the deck work and photos back in 2008 or so, there are some photos in our blog:

I hope you find the photos helpful..
I think these were the main links for the project.

Bette
SV Iemanja P40


On Sat, Mar 11, 2017 at 7:21 PM, John Wither <jpwi...@bigpond.com> wrote:

Hi Bette,   thanks for the reply as yours is the post I have been looking for as you used the G10.   I saved your post back then but can’t find where I saved it to – I remember it was a great report on the process.  Can you tell me where I can find it.  Was it under the boat name somewhere??  Just reply direct to me if you wish rather than sending it around to everyone.

 

Regards

 

John

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