Waterlift Muffler

[Rick Hurt]

 

Hello All,

 

As previously reported, I currently have the engine on Perla lifted and moved out of the way to work on the engine mounts and brackets.  With the engine out I am addressing any maintenance work I can think of that’s going to be easier with the engine moved, transmission dampening plate, exhaust hoses etc.  I’m  focusing on the waterlift muffler right now.  There is some wastage of metal at the end of the hose barbs where the exhaust hose attaches to the waterlift muffer.  All of the wastage seems to be from the outside in.  pretty sure I can do a good repair with a little glass and epoxy resin.  Reading past posts, I see where some have replaced the outlet pipe of the muffler (the one that goes within an inch of the bottom) with a fiberglass one.  I have no reason to think this outlet pipe is perforated with wastage on Perla, since the system is pushing water out nicely with the engine running. 

My question is, have a lot of the P-40 had to replace this outlet pipe?  Would appreciate hearing from anyone who has had to rebuilt there waterlift mufflers.

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Rick Hurt

SV Perla, P-40 #14

San Francisco Bay

 

 

 

[Bill Schmidt]

we replaced both pipes when we had the engine out (and enlarged the diameter of the entire exhaust system) on Wind Witch. We used fiberglass. 2002, I believe.

Billy Manana

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[Don Fife]

I did exactly what you are proposing when I had my engine out. Assuming that the SS inside was dissolving like the elbows coming out of the lift muffler. Just replace the exhaust elbows with fiber glass elbows. The tube had no rust and was in perfect shape. It is hard work to drill out the tube due to 1/8 inch of stainless plate on top of the muffler. I replaced the tube with fiberglass pipe and attached the elbow to it. Surrounded the elbow with rock hard epoxy paste and have had no problems with cracking or coming loose.

Even with the engine out it is not an easy task cutting through the SS top plate due to its location in our P40’s. Some owners have had to modify the intake and out take holes larger due to installing another engine such as a Yanmar. No choice in those changes. Maybe one of our members can elaborate on the reasons for the pipe not rusting and the elbows rusting/wasting away. My guess is deprivation of air with rubber surrounding the elbow…

 

Bugler

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[Rick Hurt]

Thanks Don.  Exactly the kind of information I was looking for.  I think I can adequately repair the elbows with high temp epoxy.  If not, then I’ll bond new fiberglass elbow to a g-10 flange, cut off the old elbows flush, and bond the new flange and elbows to the tank top.  Seems I recall that stainless will waste when fresh water is trapped against the steel and deprived of oxygen.  Some metallurgist out there probably has a better explanation.  Thanks again.

 

Rick

[Jeff and Jane Woodward]

We cut the top off the forward part of the "water closet" with a small die grinder.  The cut was made so that both pipes came out with the top of the box.  We replaced the two stainless steel pipes with fiberglass tubes and glassed them onto the box.  We did not have to do any fancy flange work.  The fiberglass and epoxy that holds the tubes in the box now works as the top of the box where we made the cut.  We did that in 2006 and have had no problems.

One of the pipes goes to the bottom of the box and the other is attached to the top of the box.

The original stainless steel muffler that lives at the back of the locker above the port settee behind a false bulkhead was leaking.  We replaced it with a Vetus fiberglass muffler.  It has been working without fail.

We increased the diameter of the bottom ends of the tubes and stepped the top ends of the tubes to match the recommended diameters of a new engine should we repower sometime in the future.  Can't remember the exact tube diameters, but I think the small end that matches the present engine exhaust is 1-1/2" and the steps go to 2" and 2-1/2".  Should we repower and need a larger exhaust we will just cut the end of the tube to fit the larger exhaust hose. 

I hope this is helpful.

Jeff

Adagio, P-40 #109, 1986

Presently on the hard in San Carlos, Mexico/ crew at home in Portland, OR

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From: passpor...@googlegroups.com <passpor...@googlegroups.com> on behalf of Rick Hurt <rkh...@comcast.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 21, 2017 10:59 AM
To: 'Don Fife'; 'Passport Owners'

[Anne Baptista]

Hey Jeff,

What model is the Vetus Brand fiberglass muffler that you used to replace the original SS muffler?

Annie Baptista

PP 40 Little Wing

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[Mike Senko]

I had a Passport 45 which also had a steel water lift muffler and it too had its pinhole leaks, primarily on the bottom where water sits. I sealed it with epoxy while I searched for a suitable fiberglass replacement, but after several years of no leaks I decided to leave it alone.

As far as the stainless corrosion is concerned, the Taiwanese boat builders used a product called Permatex for sealing the barb connections. This helps protect the stainless from crevice corrosion and helps seal the connection, and probably makes it easier to slide the hose on, though it makes it much more difficult to remove the hose.

Stainless gates trapped water, salt especially. My guess is it helps to set up galvanic corrosion. I used caulking everywhere and found it helps prevent the process from getting started.

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