Anyone used the Bitex B106R hub?

[satanas]

They're a Centrelock disc hub available in 135mm Q/R or 142x12 with various freehub bodies here:

http://www.bikehubstore.com/mobile/Product.aspx?ProductCode=BX106R

I'm wondering as they're light, not horribly expensive (unlike DT's 240S or 180S), and have steel inserts in the alu cassette body to prevent damage. If they are reliable and not super loud, I'm seriously interested.

Later,
Stephen

[Igor Belopolsky]

Have not used the disc versions, but used the rim brake one on my old bike. Seem nice, maybe a little loud but not too bad. Lots of engagement.

Weigle likes them (the non-disc)

[Steve Chan]

   BHS has a really good reputation as an "Alt" hub. Apparently the defect rate is pretty low, and when something comes up they take care of it the right way, right away.

   I've ordered rims and spokes from them and been very happy with their service. I would expect their hubs to be good stuff.

   A thru-axle centerlock DT350 from Wiggle is only about $150, and might be a consideration. You can also sometimes find deals on previous generation XTR hubs on EBay if you're patient (and quick on the "Buy It Now").

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[Justin Hughes]

I've built wheelsets recently with DT350 and SRAM 900 (no centerlock option) and very happy with both. If I were building a set tomorrow I'd likely go with one of those again.

The Bitex looks like a decent option, though.

Not sure I'd choose a loose ball hub for this application, personally, but this seems like a solid deal on a budget. http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/us/en/shimano-zee-rear-mtb-hub-m640/rp-prod82443

Justin
Louisville

[Eric Nichols]

I've been using the Bitex (BHS) road hub SL210 for several thousand all-road miles, and have been very happy with it, except for one little thing.

The drive-side end cap threads onto the axle, and retains the cassette body. In my experience, the torque on the end cap needs to be just right.  Too tight, and the bearings start to bind.  Too loose, and there is lateral play in the cassette body.  On my hub, the "just right" setting is finger-tight, using no tools.  That's not much torque, and it is sensitive to change. 

When the wheel is being mounted in the dropouts, the end caps inevitably get bumped a little, which can cause the finger-tight end cap to slightly loosen. Over the course of several wheel dismounts, the end cap can back off enough to cause some lateral slop in the cassette.  I took me a while to figure out why my RD felt like it was losing adjustment... 

I now check the end cap every time I mount the rear wheel.  

I don't know if the B106R uses this same design, but if it does, be sure to pay attention to the end caps every time the wheel is mounted. 

Eric 

Newfields NH

[Bill M.]

Sounds like a drop of purple Loctite would be appropriate there.  

Bill

Stockton, CA

[Reed Kennedy]

I just noticed in the current issue of Bicycle Quarterly that Peter Weigle used a Bitex RAR12 rear hub for the bike Jan rode at the Technical Trials. Not the same hub you mention, Stephen, but I suspect the freehub body, bearings, and elements of the design are likely similar. If nothing else, it's a heck of a recommendation for the manufacturer. 

Reed

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[satanas]

^ Maybe, however I'm not convinced Peter Weigle is a deity, unlike some here, so will take that with a grain of salt. (No disrespect to PJW is intended.)

Later,
Stephen

[Eric Nichols]

Cleaning up a comment I made earlier in this thread... about the SL210 BHS/ Bitex hub end caps causing the bearings to bind.

The binding phenomenon appears to have gone away. Perhaps some internal bits in the hub have finally seated properly, or maybe there was some debris in the wrong place. But whatever the reason, the end caps now torque down without causing binding of the bearings.

Eric