Bug Exhaust Install

[D Johnson]

I always start with confidence and enthusiasm. I loosely install the heater boxes to allow lots of wiggle room. Then the flat gaskets are slipped over the head bolts and the fiber donut with concave metal washers are pused onto the heat exchanger. That's when the trouble begins. I don't think I have ever successfully joined the muffler (or header)  to the heat exchanger. Those clamp halves don't want to hug the muffler, the fiber donut, and the washer together. Something wants to slip out. Sometimes it works out with no leaks but it is never pretty, and I put on my first muffler in 1988.  Should I be modifying the clamps to make them fit better or should I weld on flanges and give up on the old school method? Is there a better version of the old-style clamps out there? 

My 1915cc engine is back in the '71 Super Beetle with Dual IDFs. I need to work out the fuel system (tank, fuel line, fuel pump). Then more things to take care of because the car has been sitting for so long, brakes and lights need to be checked etc.

Hope you all are well, keeping safe and busy.

Dean Johnson

WIlliamson, NY (Rural NY amoungst the apple orchards)

[Dave C. Bolen]

Dean,

LOL....I have seen two grown men cry over trying to install a stock vw
muffler...many years ago...

I never touch the heater boxes except with a carefully placed prybar
to force them to match up with the muffler.

I quit using the donut method years ago cause the pipes(after all these
years) are never the size they used to be....generally waaay too loose and
leaky.

Do the weld on flanges and you will never be sorry. You will still need a
gently used pry bar and punch to hold one set of the holes in the right
place no matter what.

Cheers, dave

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[mbuc...@charter.net]

No prying needed if you have the heater boxes loose.   If you tighten them down, they WILL  be off.   Never tighten ANY thing until EVERYTHING is started and basically aligned.  This list includes the intake manifold and heat risers and the heater junction boxes and tubes and clamps.

iPhone 11

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[Rayvwbug]

So great to see  a vw question. No viruses!

Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone

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[Rayvwbug]

I also always use the spun metal type donut clamps instead of fiber as fiber are prone to crack. The metal ones will move a bit to conform to the heaterbox pipe shape

Ray

[D Johnson]

I think the trouble I’m having is that the woven metal gasket is too wide to be enclosed (along with the retaining ring and muffler mini-flange) by the clamps. The clamps don’t seem wide enough. I’ll try again tomorrow and if necessary, I’ll grind them flatter. I think the clamps used to be better. I know they used to be directional with different diameters for both pipe sizes.

Dean