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Hi Randy,
First of all, I am going to assume you have the uTracer 3+, not the 6.
As mentioned before, wiring of the tube sockets is very important, and to do a test, wire a single socket as close as you can to the board, eliminating all the other wiring in your current setup. Rotary switches are very nice, but can be a nightmare because of the stray capacitance they can add to the circuit. Ferrite beads are a good thing if used properly. Generally speaking more is not always better, but not enough of them isn’t either. How many? Well, that depends entirely on your specific build, no easy rule there. Oscillations *usually* show in ragged curves, stray capacitance can alter a otherwise nice looking curve. In Ronald’s write-up he recommends a “circular” wiring scheme, especially for multiple sockets. This is a very useful method since it help prevent signal reflection of an improperly terminated data link. Remember the terminator resistors in computer data cables? Trail and error is the path.
Many of the old testers were very limited in what they actually test, i.e. most of them simply gave a measure of the tube emission. The uTracer shows a lot more of the tube, so be sure you are comparing apples to apples when comparing results to a vintage tube tester. For the small tubes you mention I like to use the quick test option; it compares the closest to many vintage testers, and is a quick test too.
Good luck,
Bill v
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Randy,
As suggested before, your problem is either inside or outside of the uTracer. As a test, wire a socket close to the uTracer board eliminating all the extra wiring, and compare. All that extra wiring adds stray capacitance to the circuit, something that may affect the small tubes more than the larger ones.
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