Sliding glass door full replace with custom on a Uniflite 32’ Sport Sedan
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El Screw Drive( r )
Dec 9, 2019, 3:33:57 AM12/9/19
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Hello, I am the owner of a 32 foot sport sedan. This particular model came with sliding glass doors for the entryway into the salon. The doors have seen their better days, and despite my numerous attempts to replace the rollers and sliders on the bottom and secure up the windows and glass from leaking, I think it’s time to just simply replace the doors in the entirety. I’m sure the supplied from the factory doors were great decades ago, however the parts and fasteners are not marine grade and I see unnecessary wear and problems resulting from the door being installed on a slight angle.
I can also say I’m very jealous of all of you that can simply pop the doors off or shove a putty knife under he rollers to prop them up and remove them. I’m not sure if Uniflite installed mine or after purchase work was done, but I have to dance a very special dance to get these doors off. And that was only after cutting into certain securing accommodations that clearly were the handy work of a “get er’ done” weekend warrior not one concerned with long term functionality or true to the original spec and form.
Two completely retrofit these doors to be up to the abuse that they seem to be taking on my particular boat would leave me with an old fashioned set of doors with shiny connectors sitting atop rusty stains and painted over pitted metals. This is the very the thing I’m trying to avoid. this time around.
I am not tied to this design of sliding glass door in anyway whatsoever, as a matter fact I don’t particularly like it with all glass and the sliding glass doors in the center I would be perfectly happy with something more along the lines that you see on the other board where there’s a door ( maybe even a split Haley’s horizontal door ) and window and perhaps a little bit more coverage from the sun.
If active has any pics of different than standard stick Uniflite salon entry doors I would love to see what others have done.
If I go to a Home Depot type place is the unusual height if these doors an issue? I would assume they have doors all the sane height based in building code and then you order the width or chose from a dejection of varying widths. Perhaps getting fully custom width, height, door avd subdue designs, materials choice, etc is all I set if sliding glass door section and I simply had no idea. Anyone have any info to share?
Has anyone ever done a full replacement to something custom in it’s place? I’ve been looking on Alibaba and AliExpress in the Marine section and they have an ample selection of different doors and configurations for boats as well as custom work that can be done all for ridiculously reasonable prices… if you have the time to wait for it to come to port to you.
Here is a first search where could find anything on Alibaba.com for an example of pricing and options. Honestly, Alibaba.com abd AliExpress both have a ton of marine options they sell. ( just search for marine ) I certainly could not afford to keep up with ownership, maintenance, lus upgrades to modernize were it not for the products I find on these sites. Some are name brand sane as you would pay 5x more here, some are clearly coming out of the producers factory minus the OEM logo and plus quickly re-purposed docs, and others are pure re-engineering efforts by some company that to date has nothing but impressed me. I would have paid thousands upon thousands for the stainless sink, oven, range combo I bought off Alibaba.com for $450.00 shipped, and don’t ask me how they do it, I wonder in amazement right along side you. :)
Thanks! I’m just looking for ramblings and musings from others who have gone down this road or some the research to start.
I can also say I’m very jealous of all of you that can simply pop the doors off or shove a putty knife under he rollers to prop them up and remove them. I’m not sure if Uniflite installed mine or after purchase work was done, but I have to dance a very special dance to get these doors off. And that was only after cutting into certain securing accommodations that clearly were the handy work of a “get er’ done” weekend warrior not one concerned with long term functionality or true to the original spec and form.
Two completely retrofit these doors to be up to the abuse that they seem to be taking on my particular boat would leave me with an old fashioned set of doors with shiny connectors sitting atop rusty stains and painted over pitted metals. This is the very the thing I’m trying to avoid. this time around.
I am not tied to this design of sliding glass door in anyway whatsoever, as a matter fact I don’t particularly like it with all glass and the sliding glass doors in the center I would be perfectly happy with something more along the lines that you see on the other board where there’s a door ( maybe even a split Haley’s horizontal door ) and window and perhaps a little bit more coverage from the sun.
If active has any pics of different than standard stick Uniflite salon entry doors I would love to see what others have done.
If I go to a Home Depot type place is the unusual height if these doors an issue? I would assume they have doors all the sane height based in building code and then you order the width or chose from a dejection of varying widths. Perhaps getting fully custom width, height, door avd subdue designs, materials choice, etc is all I set if sliding glass door section and I simply had no idea. Anyone have any info to share?
Has anyone ever done a full replacement to something custom in it’s place? I’ve been looking on Alibaba and AliExpress in the Marine section and they have an ample selection of different doors and configurations for boats as well as custom work that can be done all for ridiculously reasonable prices… if you have the time to wait for it to come to port to you.
Here is a first search where could find anything on Alibaba.com for an example of pricing and options. Honestly, Alibaba.com abd AliExpress both have a ton of marine options they sell. ( just search for marine ) I certainly could not afford to keep up with ownership, maintenance, lus upgrades to modernize were it not for the products I find on these sites. Some are name brand sane as you would pay 5x more here, some are clearly coming out of the producers factory minus the OEM logo and plus quickly re-purposed docs, and others are pure re-engineering efforts by some company that to date has nothing but impressed me. I would have paid thousands upon thousands for the stainless sink, oven, range combo I bought off Alibaba.com for $450.00 shipped, and don’t ask me how they do it, I wonder in amazement right along side you. :)
Thanks! I’m just looking for ramblings and musings from others who have gone down this road or some the research to start.
Tod duBois
Dec 28, 2019, 7:29:42 PM12/28/19
to UnifliteWorld
I've got a 36 that needs a door as well, looks like a typical home slider but is shorter, I'm assuming custom order but I know someone out there knows the answer
El Screw Drive( r )
Dec 29, 2019, 3:09:16 AM12/29/19
to UnifliteWorld
According to my local Home Depot it’s not all that challenging nor uncommon. If I think back about 20 years I recall looking at renting out the entire upper floor of a home, totaling at 2100 sq. ft. of space on the upper floor, in the Bay Area, listed for a price 1/2 what the market was supporting. There was a short quip in the ad, more like a riddle, so off to investigate I went.
Nice owners. Family of four. Two sons, moved out a while back and no longer living with the parents. The second story addition was done for the two kids. A fully functional, self contained, serviceable home, with kitchen, bathrooms, bedrooms etc.
Both the children were born dwarfs. I don’t know the exact details but I remember it was a lease, month to month, furnished and ready to go. Only trouble, everything was at about 70% scale for me. My head hit the ceilings, the countertops were way too low, some company makes ultra low profile toilets amongst many household items, and the doors; sliding, pocket, French, glass, etc. My step father, a contractor, had me pretty keen on doors and windows. From my observance, it didn’t even look as though these doors and windows were custom order.
Just as you give measurements for carpet, or the length and depth for a countertop, you do so for a sliding glass door. It’s just a measurement to the manufacturer.
The only other point I can think that might make these doors no additional cost, is blinds. For all the blinds, screen windows, screen doors, etc. I have replaced in my life, I’ve never made particular Vons users toon when giving the height measurement. Further, I’ve never omitted the height value due to it being standardized, implied, or otherwise static in nature.
In all cases it’s not all that much a size change in height. I would suggest, before you install, to swap out or order it with some changes… Swap the hardware for your marine grade equivalent. The glass, make sure it’s capable of the abuse it may take, pre-tint if needed, dual paned, ideally 86 the rollers in favor of however the roller-less options are done today. I’d upgrade the locking mechanism too.
We’re also not limited to copying the Uniflite design. I was considering a split upper/lower single door to have the top open for air. Then the left and right solid wood for better insulation and no longer centered. Anyone else have ideas on how they might alter the design?
One thing I can say, the hanging of the sliding doors at a slight angle did none of us any favors. Spend any amount of time with these doors and the rollers and you will quickly learn what makes a cheap sliding glass door kit and where the points of wear and breakage are. The slight lean of the doors certainly caused premature wear on only one side of the cheap rollers eventually causing sticking. As time and user wear and weld into each other it becomes a replace only option. I will try to hang plumb or make sure the system, if sliding, is one where all the pressure is not pushed into one area because of install angle.
For me, I will be getting these pre-hung in a standard home style frame. Usually I would have a level and plumb opening of 2x4’s and headers and footers to install the frame. Shim it. Trim it. Lock it. I. This case, I’m not sure what I’m going to have. Had anyone done a full replace? Maybe I should pull the old and frame out an opening to make it simple?
Nice owners. Family of four. Two sons, moved out a while back and no longer living with the parents. The second story addition was done for the two kids. A fully functional, self contained, serviceable home, with kitchen, bathrooms, bedrooms etc.
Both the children were born dwarfs. I don’t know the exact details but I remember it was a lease, month to month, furnished and ready to go. Only trouble, everything was at about 70% scale for me. My head hit the ceilings, the countertops were way too low, some company makes ultra low profile toilets amongst many household items, and the doors; sliding, pocket, French, glass, etc. My step father, a contractor, had me pretty keen on doors and windows. From my observance, it didn’t even look as though these doors and windows were custom order.
Just as you give measurements for carpet, or the length and depth for a countertop, you do so for a sliding glass door. It’s just a measurement to the manufacturer.
The only other point I can think that might make these doors no additional cost, is blinds. For all the blinds, screen windows, screen doors, etc. I have replaced in my life, I’ve never made particular Vons users toon when giving the height measurement. Further, I’ve never omitted the height value due to it being standardized, implied, or otherwise static in nature.
In all cases it’s not all that much a size change in height. I would suggest, before you install, to swap out or order it with some changes… Swap the hardware for your marine grade equivalent. The glass, make sure it’s capable of the abuse it may take, pre-tint if needed, dual paned, ideally 86 the rollers in favor of however the roller-less options are done today. I’d upgrade the locking mechanism too.
We’re also not limited to copying the Uniflite design. I was considering a split upper/lower single door to have the top open for air. Then the left and right solid wood for better insulation and no longer centered. Anyone else have ideas on how they might alter the design?
One thing I can say, the hanging of the sliding doors at a slight angle did none of us any favors. Spend any amount of time with these doors and the rollers and you will quickly learn what makes a cheap sliding glass door kit and where the points of wear and breakage are. The slight lean of the doors certainly caused premature wear on only one side of the cheap rollers eventually causing sticking. As time and user wear and weld into each other it becomes a replace only option. I will try to hang plumb or make sure the system, if sliding, is one where all the pressure is not pushed into one area because of install angle.
For me, I will be getting these pre-hung in a standard home style frame. Usually I would have a level and plumb opening of 2x4’s and headers and footers to install the frame. Shim it. Trim it. Lock it. I. This case, I’m not sure what I’m going to have. Had anyone done a full replace? Maybe I should pull the old and frame out an opening to make it simple?
Georgeviking
Dec 29, 2019, 8:01:15 AM12/29/19
to UnifliteWorld
I too had issues with my doors on my 32' sport sedan, I got lucky and found the replacement rollers and was able to get mine back in play
Home Depot doors will last one to two years on a boat max do not go that route, alibabia does have many things while I didn't search for complete doors
You can get the frames, aluminum tracks. We're what I looked for as I also needed welting that holds the glass in which that particular size/shape is no longer manufactured, the original doors were made by corona in Washington I think I'm not home to check my notes but they are long gone, anyway
If you can get the track you can make a sliding door I only found large quantities and was ready to go to a local window and door manufacturer
To purchase, they might even make you one reasonably by doubt it you can't have plastic over pine with zinc hardware. I too thought about double
Doors but we were used to sliders, .....now I did plan at one time to make my own wood sliding door the rollers can be offset on the bottom to be able keep door thic but away from the stationary glass, of course rollers need to be stainless and adjustable so door can be installed in opening then raised into top
The top I was going to install smallstainless steel wheels so instead of the door sliding along the guide it would be supported by the wheel, due to the angle
The door sits in, as far as glass you need to use saftyglass or plexiglass/ Lexan you can get plexiglass tinted I would go with saftyglas myself
And kerf a track in the door 3/16 wider than glass assemble door around glass shim glass in center of track than fill gap with black silicone
Let dry remove shims and fill where shims were, I am fortunate to have table saw, router and planer its a lot of work,,,, if the aluminum track can be bought
You can get the right welting for it than its cut the track to size chop saw with cut off blade install welting use old glass and be done I never found where to buy enough track for one door twenty yes, good luck sorry no steadfast answer, but it's a boat. But not just a boat it's a Uniflite
Home Depot doors will last one to two years on a boat max do not go that route, alibabia does have many things while I didn't search for complete doors
You can get the frames, aluminum tracks. We're what I looked for as I also needed welting that holds the glass in which that particular size/shape is no longer manufactured, the original doors were made by corona in Washington I think I'm not home to check my notes but they are long gone, anyway
If you can get the track you can make a sliding door I only found large quantities and was ready to go to a local window and door manufacturer
To purchase, they might even make you one reasonably by doubt it you can't have plastic over pine with zinc hardware. I too thought about double
Doors but we were used to sliders, .....now I did plan at one time to make my own wood sliding door the rollers can be offset on the bottom to be able keep door thic but away from the stationary glass, of course rollers need to be stainless and adjustable so door can be installed in opening then raised into top
The top I was going to install smallstainless steel wheels so instead of the door sliding along the guide it would be supported by the wheel, due to the angle
The door sits in, as far as glass you need to use saftyglass or plexiglass/ Lexan you can get plexiglass tinted I would go with saftyglas myself
And kerf a track in the door 3/16 wider than glass assemble door around glass shim glass in center of track than fill gap with black silicone
Let dry remove shims and fill where shims were, I am fortunate to have table saw, router and planer its a lot of work,,,, if the aluminum track can be bought
You can get the right welting for it than its cut the track to size chop saw with cut off blade install welting use old glass and be done I never found where to buy enough track for one door twenty yes, good luck sorry no steadfast answer, but it's a boat. But not just a boat it's a Uniflite
Tod duBois
Dec 29, 2019, 8:13:50 AM12/29/19
to UnifliteWorld
When I said custom, I didn't mean build one yourself and pray. I meant order one that fit perfectly and lasted awhile, maybe even a warranty.
I think someone domestic like Milgard can make a standard quality unit but better would be a bi-fold glass wall. Guestimate of $2000
Higher end German would be Nanawall - Guestimate of $5000
Others that might be interesting:
Thoughts?
MoreCoffee
Jan 10, 2020, 8:18:11 PM1/10/20
to UnifliteWorld
I have a 32 Uniflite as well... My rollers are starting to act up. I cannot see how to get the doors out though. They cannot be tipped out like you normally wood as they would hit the lip on the inside. So what is the procedure to get them out of the track? Thanks
Georgeviking
Jan 11, 2020, 7:49:21 AM1/11/20
to UnifliteWorld
The way they were designed to be taken out is that the roller is on an eccentric shaft the star on the inside has a small set screw that hasto be removed
Then the star gets turned till the door lowers a little bit....however at least on mine I could not get the star to turn, so I removed the little stop on top of the door
All aluminum frame doors are screwed together so I unscrewed the frame on top and the back removed the welting and glass to get it all out.
Then drilled out shaft holding the roller from the out side ( use a drill a little lager than shaft just to get the head to fall off. I found the exact replacement rollers
And put it all together again. Two things, one the welting for that thickness glass and that size track is not made anymore, so be very careful
Taking it out, I had planned on replacing so was not that careful, put most back than used black silicone for bottom, after it dried I hit the rest with tire shine
So it all was gloss, very hard to see repair. Also after new rollers are in once a year I take out little set screw it's in the perfect spot to lube the rollers
I use cable and chain Lube spray the heck out of it run doors back and forth wipe excess with rag, then when out on water latch them closed or open they will roll
Back and forth ( never thought that would be a problem lol )
Then the star gets turned till the door lowers a little bit....however at least on mine I could not get the star to turn, so I removed the little stop on top of the door
All aluminum frame doors are screwed together so I unscrewed the frame on top and the back removed the welting and glass to get it all out.
Then drilled out shaft holding the roller from the out side ( use a drill a little lager than shaft just to get the head to fall off. I found the exact replacement rollers
And put it all together again. Two things, one the welting for that thickness glass and that size track is not made anymore, so be very careful
Taking it out, I had planned on replacing so was not that careful, put most back than used black silicone for bottom, after it dried I hit the rest with tire shine
So it all was gloss, very hard to see repair. Also after new rollers are in once a year I take out little set screw it's in the perfect spot to lube the rollers
I use cable and chain Lube spray the heck out of it run doors back and forth wipe excess with rag, then when out on water latch them closed or open they will roll
Back and forth ( never thought that would be a problem lol )
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