Bendy vs. Stiffy article

[TurbineBlade]

http://thelimpcobra.com/2012/11/20/bendy-vs-stiffy-a-study-of-fly-rod-action-and-casting-mechanics/

For people who think about such things, this is an interesting article I thought I'd share.  Tape 2 fly rods ("fast" and "slow" -- from what they say) to your casting arm and go casting!  

I may be wrong, but I don't fully agree with what this article is either stating or possibly implying.  As someone else pointed out to me, loop shape is NOT the same between the two rods, which suggests to me that the one-stroke-fits-all approach isn't ideal, and that experienced casters most certainly make *some adjustment to the stroke based upon rod action (when not being forced to cast two rods at once).  

I think all this really does is demonstrate that a person can cast two rods simultaneously, (obviously) use the same casting stroke, and produce some kind of loop-like thing with both rods.  Or maybe it just suggests anyone with a reasonably smooth stroke can pick up a rod and do something with it.  

It's interesting to think about though.  

Note:  I'm not FFF certified, I just spend a lot of time casting across the street in the unused athletic field of an elementary school after hours.  

Gene

[TurbineBlade]

Also -- there's not a lot of line being cast, which probably stacks things in favor of the person writing the article ;).  

Gene

[Dalton Terrell]

Gene,

Thanks for posting this, that's a very interesting video. I don't think the article is saying that the loops produced by the two rods given the same stroke are identical, but rather they are very similar. Any FFF guy or gal worth their salt will tell you that you need a wider arc with a slow rod (to produce a straight line path of the rod tip) in comparison to a fast rod; however, I think this video proves that this is often overstated.

Dalton

[TurbineBlade]

Hi Dalton -- I appreciate the input.  I also don't know "models" of fly rods very well, and it seemed at least possible to me that the two rods may be "fast" and "moderate" vs. actually what (I consider) a true fast v. slow comparison.  This would also sort of stack things more in favor of the "one stroke" idea vs. them having an old bamboo, "wet fly action" rod or something compared to a fast rod.  

Gene 

[Carl Z.]

Interesting.  It is also funny how they explain away the tip bounce.   To reduce tip bounce on the glass rod you do have to change your stop.  Also you don't see the loops unroll at the end, which I would be interested in.   My experience is that it is easier to overload a slower rod that has more swing weight and throw a tailing loop.  FWIW, I have a Grayfite 8' 6/7 rod  (it was my first rod from around 1986) and it isn't slow, but it isn't a fast rod either. 

If you stop the video while the rod is under maximum load, you can see the difference in the flex profiles of the rod.  It isn't that great, probably because by shortening the sage by a foot, you are effectively slowing the rod down (putting more bend into the bottom half of the rod).

I would love to see the same casts where the caster is maximizing the quality of the slow rod cast.  That is slowing the cast down and dampening the stop so the slow rod  has the better loops. I know from experience that when casting a slow rod, you do have to change your stroke to get a nice cast.  The adjustments might not be as dramatic as I feel, but I'm sure they are there.

It's easy to find flaws, but it is an interesting demonstration and it demonstrates that "casting is casting".  Given his argument, everyone should be using 30 year old $20 rods.

Carl

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[Misha Gill]

Good thoughts Carl. This video does make me think a tailing loop is more likely with a slower rod due to the rod bounce on the forward stroke, although I haven't had any issues since acquiring an 8'6" orvis superfine. However, I've only used it around the near-DC area (and i'm in love with it). It occurs to me that it might not be the right rod for the 60-70ft casts necessary on parts of the South Holston, but I aim to find out. 

[TurbineBlade]

I agree -- one of the first things I noticed with my fenwicks is that I was casting them too much like faster graphite rods and getting lots of tip bounce and not allowing the rod to fully load/unload....it kind of goes away once you just get out and cast them a lot.  I think old, slower rods are good teachers.  

I've casted a lot with tape measure to get an exact measure (not just adding fly line and leader length) and have to say that I very rarely, in an actual fishing situation, cast out to 70'....even on the few SW trips I've done, and when sight casting to carp on the big river. The first time I laid out the tape I was really impressed with the actual distance that 100' really is....it's daunting!  Lay out a 100' tape, make a cast, and then walk the camera all the way out to the end of the leader and pan over to the tape, and if it reads "100'" I'll tip my hat, because it's beyond my ability ;).  

I will freely admit that on the grass, I can seldom reach 100' and when I have, the leader is a total mess.  85-90' is probably more realistic as my "grass max".  On the water I'm sure it's even less.  I think it's cool to watch people really lay line out there, because it seems like the further out you get - the more perfect everything has to be (loop shape, trajectory etc.) to get it right.  There's nothing easy about it.  Those FF guys are darned good.  

I think trying it (long casts) once in a while still has value in making shorter casts (40-60') much more second-nature.  I actually like short-head WF lines for fishing around here because they make those "real world" casts a bit easier (at least for me). 

I think I'll get out and do some of this tomorrow!  

Gene

[namfos]

Use a bright orange line when you do, Gene.

Mark

[Misha Gill]

Totally agree slow rods are good teachers. You get more sensation translated to your hands, so you are more in touch with where the line is. And slowing down your tempo really makes you realize the rod is a flexy lever.