Snake guide replacement advice needed

[Clarence Fullard]

I broke a snake guide on my 5wt Greys rod. It has a warranty, but between the hassle of actually getting a hold of the customer service department, paying the shipping, and forking over a warranty fee, I could purchase a new rod with less hassle, the same cost, and faster shipping.......so:

Can anyone give me advice on how to replace a snake guide? I can't imagine it is that difficult, though getting the wraps back on neatly could be challenging without some sort of tool to spin the rod rather than spinning the thread. I searched online and found the new guides to be inexpensive, but I have no idea what size to get.
 
Thanks!
Clarence

[Scott Stankus]

I believe there is at least one local rod repair shop. Might be worth getting a quote, as it might be less expensive than the warranty option:

https://groups.google.com/forum/#!searchin/tidal-potomac-fly-rodders/rod$20repair/tidal-potomac-fly-rodders/JFHvfey4wv0/1-OAVi50TdEJ

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"There are 10 types of people in this world, those who know binary, and those who don't"

[Clarence Fullard]

Excellent, thanks! I should have utilized the search function before posting.

This dilemma got me thinking about rod building...something I've always thought about doing but have never pursued. Who am I kidding, I barely have time to tie flies and fish let alone build rods. Maybe one day.

[Nedak]

The rod repair guy is Phil Evans – he’s in Arlington at 3612 N. Lee Highway.  Phone – (703)528-3022

I think its $9/guide.  I had one repaired a few backs after Sage lost battle with car door.

[Steve Christopherson]

Clarence,

It is not difficult to do, especially if the thread is a standard color, but can be pain. Even if it's $25, it's still reasonable to have a pro with the equipment and materials fix it; you will spend that much in materials and shipping easily.  You can learn to do it yourself though.  Determine which guide it is (counting from the tip down).  Most manufacturers will use two #1, two #2, two #3, two #4 (progressively larger towards the butt).  If it's a 8.5' or 9' there are probably 9 snake guides and 1 stripping, 8' is probably 9 snake guides.  You DON'T need any special equipment to wrap the guide, just nylon rod wrapping thread and PacBay (I think) makes little packages of rod finishing epoxy (to apply to the thread), and youtube.  You can use a cardboard box as a wrapping jig, throw the thread spool into a coffee cup and run the thread through a book (stacking weight on the book) to adjust the tension.  I built my first two rods with this set up before going with a professional set up.  - Steve

[Jeffrey Nowak]

I broke a guide on my 5 wt. took it to this old guy in Arlington, $10 and he had it done in two days. http://www.yelp.com/biz/rod-and-reel-repair-arlington. No one can tell which guide was replaced. I had thought about doing it myself but Im glad I didn't. Plus the old guy was really nice and I was happy to give him business. He's a real pro more like an artist, can't recomend him enough.

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[Eric Y.]

I live one block from Phil's shop. Doesn't keep a lot of stuff in the shop, but he's a super nice guy and did nice work on my surf casting rod. I think I paid $8/guide. He also spools braid for a reasonable price. The hours seem to be "whenever I feel like being there," but other than that, no complaints here. 

The only thing I'd be aware of is that you might void your warranty by having him wrap on new guides. not a bit deal, perhaps, but it could be if the rod were to break within the warranty period.  

On Thursday, June 19, 2014 3:33:50 PM UTC-4, Jeff wrote:

I broke a guide on my 5 wt. took it to this old guy in Arlington, $10 and he had it done in two days. http://www.yelp.com/biz/rod-and-reel-repair-arlington. No one can tell which guide was replaced. I had thought about doing it myself but Im glad I didn't. Plus the old guy was really nice and I was happy to give him business. He's a real pro more like an artist, can't recomend him enough.

On Thu, Jun 19, 2014 at 3:04 PM, Steve Christopherson <stephen.chr...@gmail.com> wrote:

Clarence,

It is not difficult to do, especially if the thread is a standard color, but can be pain. Even if it's $25, it's still reasonable to have a pro with the equipment and materials fix it; you will spend that much in materials and shipping easily.  You can learn to do it yourself though.  Determine which guide it is (counting from the tip down).  Most manufacturers will use two #1, two #2, two #3, two #4 (progressively larger towards the butt).  If it's a 8.5' or 9' there are probably 9 snake guides and 1 stripping, 8' is probably 9 snake guides.  You DON'T need any special equipment to wrap the guide, just nylon rod wrapping thread and PacBay (I think) makes little packages of rod finishing epoxy (to apply to the thread), and youtube.  You can use a cardboard box as a wrapping jig, throw the thread spool into a coffee cup and run the thread through a book (stacking weight on the book) to adjust the tension.  I built my first two rods with this set up before going with a professional set up.  - Steve

On Thursday, June 19, 2014 10:31:52 AM UTC-4, Clarence Fullard wrote:

I broke a snake guide on my 5wt Greys rod. It has a warranty, but between the hassle of actually getting a hold of the customer service department, paying the shipping, and forking over a warranty fee, I could purchase a new rod with less hassle, the same cost, and faster shipping.......so:

Can anyone give me advice on how to replace a snake guide? I can't imagine it is that difficult, though getting the wraps back on neatly could be challenging without some sort of tool to spin the rod rather than spinning the thread. I searched online and found the new guides to be inexpensive, but I have no idea what size to get.
 
Thanks!
Clarence

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[Dave Jamieson]

I used to build my own rods. I eventually stopped, since it seemed the only rods I ever broke were the ones I'd built myself, and obviously they didn't have warranties. As Steve mentioned, you can use a shoebox as a wrapping jig, which is how I did my first couple rods before buying a lower-end wrapper. But honestly, unless you're looking to make a hobby out of it, I'd have somebody else rewrap a new guide. It's not rocket science, but it takes a little time to learn how to wrap and finish a guide cleanly (the first rod I built, a little 3 weight I still use for brookies, is strong evidence of that). And I don't think you'd save much money doing it on your own. In fact, if that guy will do it for $10, you won't save any money at all, between the thread and epoxy.

[Clarence]

Thanks all. I didn't realize there was a rod repair shop in town, so I'm definitely going to take it there. Don't really care if I void this warranty, as their customer service and warranty is pretty useless unless you have a very expensive rod. 

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[Steve Christopherson]

I teach rod building and casting at Project Healing Waters - Fort Belvoir and we have quite a production line going - but we mostly buy kits and have good program supplied equipment and the best supplies, something most builders don't have at their disposal when they start out.  

The truth about building is you can make a great rod from a mediocre rod blank using the correct components, good technique and patience. Conversely, one could build a mediocre rod on a premium rod blank. Another fact is manufacturers often degrade the performance of their own blanks with traditional components one has come to expect, rather than the ones that would maximize the performance and life of the rod, and usually because it would cut into profit margin and most anglers are happy with the product anyway.  The little details are what make a great rod though IMHO.  Some of it is esthetics, but frankly a Fuji graphite spinning reel seat costs about $8 and hands down out lasts and out performs most $50 fly reel seats, but you'll never see one on a commercial rod because it's not downlocking rosewood or an anodized aluminum the manufacture doesn't actually make. Incidentally, If you see a Fuji on a fly rod, it's definitely custom, and probably a excellent rod. 

There is nothing economical about it building your own, like fly tying, you won't really save money.  There's a reason why a custom fly rod is usually more expensive than it's commercial cousin though - especially if you, or a pro builder can make tweaks to conform to your casting and fishing style, or tweaks to improve your casting and fishing.  You probably can't tell difference between a custom Orvis Superfine Touch .  But if you want a Ritz grip, smaller guides, different color wraps, a fighting butt on a 4 weight (why not?) then you'll have to either build it, or have it built custom.  

I would encourage any of you to consider building your own rod, at least one. There's decent blanks and components on ebay to get started as well.  I too have less time to tie flies incidentally because of it, but I can usually mooch a few flies.  

 

Steve  

On Thursday, June 19, 2014 10:31:52 AM UTC-4, Clarence Fullard wrote:

[Clarence]

Thanks for the info

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[Dave J]

I searched to find out more about Rod and Reel Repair in Arlington, found this article, worth a read - http://www.tbd.com/blogs/tbd-neighborhoods/2010/10/the-holdouts-rod-and-reel-repair-3022.html

[Carl Z.]

On Thu, Jun 19, 2014 at 7:04 PM, Steve Christopherson <stephen.chr...@gmail.com> wrote:

There is nothing economical about it building your own, like fly tying, you won't really save money.  

Tell me about it. 

I would encourage any of you to consider building your own rod, at least one.

Run away.  I love the hobby, but it makes fly tying look cheap :-)

 

[Clarence Fullard]

Thanks all! I got it repaired at Rod & Reel Repair in VA and he only charged be 9 bucks. Quirky little shop and a very nice man. Highly recommend it for future repair. Wish I hadn't sent in my Redington rod for repair a few weeks back (15 dollar shipping + 30 dollar warranty charge, could have been fixed for 10 bucks!)....I need to be more careful throwing heavy streamers.