Got back from the Grand Canyon trip last week. Ten of us put-in on December 30, 2017 at Lees Ferry and took 28 days to float 280 miles to Pearce Ferry. Didn't get to fish as much as I expected both personally and I think as a group. There was just too much going on and a lot of other cool things to do but do have a few things to report.
Lees Ferry as a fishery seems pretty bad ass, a high volume, desert tailwater. While we were there, the water temps leaving the dam were in the high 40s with flows ranging from 9,500 cfs to 17,000 cfs depending on time of day. Although we didn't lay eyes on it, the stretch from the dam to the put-in seems relatively flat and very clear, much like the boat ramp at Lees Ferry. We saw fish rising throughout the afternoon while we rigged boats at the put-in and saw many more at twilight at the Lees Ferry campsite. Didn't get to wet a line here but sure did see plenty of fisherman launching and motoring upriver or walking up to wade for the day. Hell, we even saw two dudes in waders with rigged rods, taking out at the boat ramp that had hiked down near horseshoe bend and pack rafted down.
Once we launched, the first few miles we did see a few fisherman along the right bank fishing soft spots in some of the runs. On the first day, one guy on our trip landed a small rainbow on a mepps spinner somewhere around the Navajo Bridge. At camp that night, Shear Wall, we saw a pod of about a dozen healthy rainbow swimming around in an eddy at the furthest downstream side of the camp. Over the next few days as the water changed from clear to more of an emerald green we would see an occasional rise along the banks or spot trout in the upper portion of the water column feeding.
One thing that become quite apparent during these first few days, and that did not help with the amount we fished, is that the most difficult part of safely and efficiently navigating downriver were the eddies. They were real ass holes. With such strong current from the start of the trip to the finish, each eddy we saw was raging and at times had foot tall waves moving upriver. If you got caught in one, you'd spend the next several minutes fighting to get out, or if you caught one while running a rapid, you'd need to highside to prevent a flip. Thinking about it now, I would say that it felt as if half the water that flows through the Grand Canyon actually moves up river. Needless to say, trying to fish from the boat was interesting. Always on your toes to avoid eddies, you always needed the boat to have momentum as to track in and with the current which meant you couldn't really present a lure or fly with any real shot of enticing a fish to bite. You'd make the cast, have your lure in the strike zone for about three to five seconds, then the speed of the boat would drag the lure until it was out of the water as you went to make the next cast.
Over the first ten days, we stopped at a few tributaries, including Nankoweap Creek, Little Colorado River and Clear Creek but didn't fish them. At Nankoweap, I think Alex had some luck fishing the main river and I saw some moving shadows at the mouth of Clear Creek. Other than that, the first time I put my rod (8'6" 5wt) together was at Bright Angel Creek at Phantom Ranch (river mile 88) on day ten, where we picked up a friend that hiked-in. He said on his way down he passed guys shocking and seining the stream upstream from Phantom. They had worked there way up there from the ranch removing trout in the name of native endangered chubs. Knowing that these guys were around, I mailed some postcards and poked around the stream below and around the weir, the furthest points from the shocking team with no luck. Great looking stream though. If we had more time to kill at Phantom I would love to have gone upstream in hopes of passing the shocking team but oh well.
We camped at Granite camp RM 94 on night ten. I made a few casts with the spinning rod at camp, standing on one of the boats, and had three small trout follow my spinner to the boat on back to back cast but no bites. I love seeing little ones chase lures. Reminds me a lot of the Shenandoah and it's many small bass.
The next time fishing crossed my mind was several days later at river mile 134 where on a day hike, we were deep in a hidden valley walking up Tapeats Creek. We had left camp (Racetrack) to lay eyes on the Thunder River Springs, where the Thunder River shoots out the side of the redwall and cascades down into Tapeats Creek. It's the only place in the lower 48 that a river flows into a creek. Probably two miles from camp, already having gone up and around the section of creek that flows through a canyon and after our second creek crossing, I popped my head over the edge to look at the creek. I spotted a few very nice rainbows in a eddy of a deep pool, facing downstream and a few others sitting in the main current feeding. Another twenty yards up creek, I poked my head over again, half a dozen sizable trout scattered. Another ten yards up creek, poke over, another half dozen scattered. In total disbelief that I didn't have a rod, I stopped checking the creek for fish. I just couldn't handle it. We finished the hike but we took a different route back to the camp that didn't take us near the creek. We crossed it one last time, near the confluence with the main river, heading back to camp but didn't see any fish. The next day, at the base of deer creek falls at river mile 137, our group made some casts into the base of the falls and also at it's confluence with the river but no luck.
I think its safe to say, from river mile 137 to 280, fishing really didn't cross our minds. We did stop at a few more tributaries but all were very small. I had read reports of stripers in the lower section but we never got around to poking around for them. I also had read of holdout trout around a few springs in the lower stretch that we never investigated. Just too much going on.
I'm hoping to have a full trip report with more photos in the coming weeks but did want to post a "fishing report" of sorts in case anyone else does this trip in the future. Throughout the 19 months of planning, I did acquire a few books on Arizona Fishing which said that Lees and the upper Stretch of the Grand are the jewel of AZ trout fishing. And as much as I wish I could say, we fished the hell out of the place, we didn't even scratch the surface.
Generally speaking though, I couldn't imagine a better way to go through such a beautiful and interesting landscape; slowly. Between the amazing weather and views, the adrenaline from the rapids, enjoying the sandy beaches, the plentiful amounts of delicious food, time with great friends on the water, tromping up, down, and through side canyons, starring into our nightly campfire or up at the most vivid display of stars I've seen in a very long time, and the fact that we lived out of a frigging boat for 28 days, this was truly the trip of a lifetime.