This was my experience; I'm not implying that anyone else's experience would be the same; and I only have two days of data.
Stayed at Mesquite Spring and Furnace Creek in early Nov 2024. Average SQM was 21.32, comparable to Cottonwood in Joshua Tree, West Pinnacles, Yosemite Glacier Point, Lake San Antonio, and Sweetwater Campground near San Benito. Some Vegas skyglow but not bad. Seeing was pretty good; not great. People turned in pretty early at the smallish Mesquite Spring campground, though I had to break down early due to a rain squall. I set up the 2nd night at Borax Works just north of Furnace Creek to clear skies. A steady stream of visitors cars at Borax ensured that my night vision was never established. What I learned was ... find a place up some dirt road where you're not likely to see visitors at 10PM, or realize that you'll be hosting a public star party with lots of headlights if you're in the busy areas of the park.
I found gas prices to be very reasonable, and the general store at StovePipe Wells was very well stocked with food and had very reasonable prices.
I enjoyed my stay and did the usual sights and short hikes during the days so the drive from Santa Cruz was worth it. But I won't go back for astronomy, only because it's such a long drive, and there are many closer places more conducive to astronomy. My advice is that if you go, make sure you get actual tips on where to set up at night that isn't full of visitors. FWIW, others have reported nights with better seeing.
Jim B