I remember writing out assembly code in college and punching it in hex digit by hex digit to get some LEDs to work as traffic lights. it was slow and frustrating, but gave a real sense of achievement when it worked.
I know it's scoffed at by many (and I don't have a feel for the attitude of this group), but perhaps you could consider the Arduino-and-shield route, since there are a heap of libraries available for the keypad, display and serial functions that could allow you to cludge something together pretty quickly.
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The 8255 option would be the 'pure' choice, and would alleviate the need for having a 68B50 ACIA. However, it would need the keyboard scanning routines and display driving routines built in to the monitor code.
Granted, although building your own board seems like a lot of work when there are a number of cheap 4x5 keypads out there that will do the trick. They even come with indicator LEDS (like these). Also many membrane types.
Pairing this with a 2x8 LCD (like these) would get you better than basic functionality (yay verbose error messages!) at the cost of retro elegance.
Granted, although building your own board seems like a lot of work when there are a number of cheap 4x5 keypads out there that will do the trick. They even come with indicator LEDS (like these). Also many membrane types.Sweet. That solves the sourcing problem.
I have one of these (bought on Ebay): http://www.kswichit.com/8080kit/8080kit.htm

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There's a nice 5v compatible I2C device I've used. The PCA9665. Could be made into a interface board with minimal trouble, and opens Seeed Grove and Sparkfun sensor inputs and outputs.
http://www.digikey.com.au/product-detail/en/nxp-semiconductors/PCA9665N,112/568-4069-5-ND/1300992
Thanks for your thoughts on this. Some interesting comments.
From a protocol perspective, I think serial is the way to go as it just offers much more options as to what hardware can be used.I did a trial run at laying out a board yesterday. I decided to try using Cherry MX key switches, partly because they'll give a lovely clicky input experience, partly because there's a big range of key caps colours, and partly because, well, I've wanted to do a Cherry keyboard thing for a while :-) The ATMEGA328 (Arduino Uno) does the key scanning and talks over I2C to a Pimoroni Microdot Hat which gives 6 lovely LED digits. So, all in all, it's a pretty neat board. However, it won't come out to anywhere near the cost of those 4x5 keypads listed further up in this thread
<Hex Keyboard.png>
I'm sure it would be easy enough to build a low budget version though, maybe based on the 4x5 keypad from eBay, 7seg LED displays and an ArduinoWhat do you think?Spencer
--On 9 March 2017 at 01:21, Paul Carbone <pa...@paulcarbone.com> wrote:--Granted, although building your own board seems like a lot of work when there are a number of cheap 4x5 keypads out there that will do the trick. They even come with indicator LEDS (like these). Also many membrane types.Sweet. That solves the sourcing problem.
Yeah, good find, those look satisfyingly clicky.I have one of these (bought on Ebay): http://www.kswichit.com/8080kit/8080kit.htmI've been spying that one for a bit, nice to hear someones experience with it. My only minor peeve with some of these is the keyboard layout: Personally I'd prefer the standard, 3 wide number-pad, with Hex & command keys off to the top and/or side. Do you just get used to the 4 wide number pad?
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What do you think?
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Hello all, trying to revive this thread.I'm wondering what happened since 2017 and what people are doing on the rc2014 to get it programmed via hex keypad or even toggle switches :)
>> The Texas Instruments TIL311, actually has a HEX to 7 Segment Converter in the Display itself!!I think you're doing the TIL311/DIS1417 a disservice describing it as 7-seg, its much nicer than that, with its 4x7 dots the characters are much easier to read than 7-segs, and crucially it has a latch so is write-and-forget :-) Genuine pulls are readily available on ebay for £2.50 ish.Cheers :-)Phil

