Supernova E3 pro2...but dont want to run the rear light?

[jinxed]

Lighting is one area that completely baffles me. Well, anything involving electricity for that matter, so I generally rely on those with more experience lest I end up cooking myself or the electronics.

Here's what I have on hand to work with. SP SV-8 front hub, Supernova E3 2 pro front light, Nitto rack or equivalent, rechargeable rear LED of some sort. Fork has provisions for internal wiring hub to light, frame has no considerations.

Most of my riding is during daylight. When I need a light, it will primarily be off road and for purposes of seeing, not being seen. I have several extremely capable rechargeable rear lights for use when needed, so I don't want to permanently route cables to the back of the bike. That said, the E3 light has dedicated rear wiring I need to deal with. Can the rear wires be "unplugged" or are they soldered in? I don't want to ruin the light by clipping them off. I know they're not absolutely needed for the front to operate since I've never had a rear light attached and it worked great.

Any better wisdom on dealing with the wiring? Am I better off ditching the E3 and going with a "simpler" front only model? If that's the case, any recommendations for something that would suit the need, preferably in silver?

[Minh]

i have an older supernova and mine, the wiring for the rear tailight is hardwired, and i can't see how you would disconnect it short of opening it up, which would also be a serious modification. i know you said no cutting, but if you cut off the wire and leave a fews inches you could undo it later.  other PITA is that my supernova also ONLY works with their tail light. 

but if cutting is out of the question, consider a different light.   FWIW, i recently bought a generic LED dynamo light from aliexpress for a different bike and for $30 its pretty competitive with more expensive ones, i've also owned an Edelux and a few B&M

[Jon Dukeman]

Contact :

Peter White Bicycles.

Very "lighting" knowledgeable great customer service &helpful

Peterwhitecycles.com

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[Ian A]

Just insulate the taillight connections with tape (or better heat-shrink) so that the connections don't make contact with each other or the frame. Then just connect the front light in the normal way and you are ready to go.

If you were running an incandescent bulb headlight, there could be a concern that the headlight could receive too much voltage with no taillight wired in. With modern LED headlights, this is not a concern.

IanA Alberta Canada

[Erik Wright]

Same thing over here. I picked up the same light off this list about a month back. I took it down to a shop to wire it up and the mechanics just wrapped the rear wire around the light mount a bunch and threw a zip tie on there to hold it in place. Seems to be doing the trick just fine for me.

Erik, Philly

[Pam Bikes]

I'm not sure why you don't want to wire the rear taillight.  Super easy.  Takes 5 min and some zip ties.  I love it.  Never have to worry about any lights or recharging.  I run the wire along the underside of the frame and up the rack.  You never see it.  I'm not mechanically inclined and I can do it.  So you can too.  Always on too so I'll never forget to turn it on or off.  But whatever makes you happy.  

[Ginz]

Coil up the extra wire, zip tie it to the other wire, anything it takes to just hide it.  And, like the others said, tape the two conductors so they cannot ever touch each other.

You never know if you'll want to use it in the future.  Maybe you won't like the light and want to sell it. Or, maybe you'll decide to run a rear light because they barely weigh anything!

I have the original E3 and my only complaint is that they don't have a fender mounted tail light.  I thought I saw a fender mount accessory at some point but I could never find it again. Maybe I imagined it.