Help Pimp My Quickbeam

[Scott Calhoun]

And by pimp I mean, "make into a functional and kinda handsome bicycle." I always wanted a Quickbeam, and I've just missed a few for sale here. Last week a friend alerted me that our own Reid Echols was putting out feelers on Instagram about selling his 64cm QB. Long story short, a frameset is headed my way.

In preparation, I've been futzing in the parts bins, and thinking about the build. I realized that it's been a good long while since I built up a single speed--way back in 2011 when I did up a dumpster find Trek 720 frame for my daughter's college bike. I'm getting the F/F/HS, so I have some decisions to make. The frame has been re-spaced in the rear to 130mm OLN.

A bit of info about my likely use-case scenarios. I live about 16 miles from the center of town, and almost all my rides are longish. I do run errands to the Post Office (7 miles round trip) and store (around 12), but most of my rides are at least 25 miles. I'll also jump on dirt roads when I can. Tucson is pretty flat in the valley, but we are surrounded on all sides by mountains. If I want to climb, I can. On my geared bikes, my average speed is16.5-18.5mph for rides up to 65 miles or so (I mention this only for purposes of helping me decide gearing--see below).

Parts I have:

• SKF 110 bottom bracket
• Beat up but functional Campy Record Double 172.5 crankset 135bcd with various rings, mostly of the 53/39 variety
• Nitto F32 front Rack just picked up from RBW member Joe Lonner
• A set of vintage Mafac Canti brakes f/r
• A nice light set silver set of Ritchey Classic tubeless compatible wheels (1440 grams!)
• Nitto Pearl 100mm stem, maybe a 110 too
• Nitto Noodle 46cm (or maybe 44cm?) bars
• Gravel King SK 38mm and 43mm TLC tires (a pair of each)

Reid had it built at least two ways, both really attractive to my eye (photos to follow): one with drops, one with risers. Seeing that I have Noodles already, I'll likely just use those initially. I'm generally a drop bar guy anyhow. So, my main questions are drivetrain/gearing.

• Should I keep the rear spacing at 130mm and use a Surly Speed Spacer kit: https://surlybikes.com/parts/spacer_kit
• Or respace to 120mm (I also have a 120 fixed/free hub I could build up).
• Suggestions for gearing set ups. I noticed that I can buy 46t and 48t rings for the Campy 135bcd crankset I have. I typically ride bikes with a 46/48/49 tooth big ring and don't get out of the big ring in the valley. Chain is somewhere mid-cassette. 
• What would the original Sugino crankset gearing look like? What would Grant's preferred set up be?
• What about rear cog(s)? 16t, 17t? 
• Tell me about basket life? I've mostly done rando bag set ups, but maybe one of those Wald racer baskets on this? What do you put in the basket to keep your sh** from falling through the holes? 

So many choices for such a "simple" bike, right?

Scott Calhoun

Tucson, AZ

[Scott Calhoun]

[Robert Gardner]

I have the same QB and run a Marks rack with Wald large basket up front. Added a sackville and it is what I use to grocery shop. 

I also added a carradice bagman and swift zeitgeist under the saddle and that works for my work/gym stuff. 

I also recommend honjos — they look awful nice on the silver QB...

You have a darn nice bike there!

Sent from my iPhone

On May 20, 2020, at 9:05 PM, Scott Calhoun <sc...@zonagardens.com> wrote:



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[Deacon Patrick]

Congratulations, Scott! I may have missed some details, so apologies in advance if a suggestion is off.

I love my bullmoose bars on my QB. They shine on all routes and especially so on singletrack or technical dirt roads. Albastache bars are excellent, but on technical descents, the brakes are in the drops, making weighting the rear of the bike harder. Still, very ridable.

Gearing: I live on Pikes Peak. Ain't nuffin' flat here. Here is what I ride for everything:

I'm pretty sure my silver QB is 120 rear spacing, so you may want to confirm that. I have a Paul 120 track hub and a 18/21 dingle cog with a 44t chain ring, yielding a 57" low and 70" high. The 57" is great gearing for a go fast cross bike. Rene Herse Stelacoom tires are brilliant. WIthout a dingle cog, I'd run an 18t freewheel and 21 or 22t fixed cog for trails/steeps.

SS and Fixed cultivate the mentality of ride till you can't, walk till you can. LCG (lowest common gear, the gear every bike comes with) is always an option, and one you will always use, more so while you build up your muscles and stamina for SS and fixed. Expect this and allow it to jsut be part of the ride, because ... it is. Grin. Enjoy!

With abandon,

Patrick

[Eric Daume]

The stock gearing on the QB was 32/40 front x 18 rear. It can take up to this 8t cog difference if the chain length is just right. 

Eric

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[Ginz]

I think you'd be better off not re-spacing the frame.

The crankset and BB you have, do you know what chainline you get with that bottom bracket?  You may have to install it and find out.  I'm guessing somewhere around 45mm but 110mm BB sounds wide for a Campy crankset (to me).  Trying to achieve that chainline with a 120mm fixed/free hub is tough because those hubs are usually a 42mm chainline.    That may not seem like a big difference, but with fixed chair and a taught chain, it can be a big deal.  Since you have an awfully nice crankset and BB, figure out what you chainline is (to the inner and outer chainrings, and the center line, if possible) and come back with that info.

From there, the best type of hub can be identified.

If you don't care about fixed gear and just want one singlespeed gear, then any 130mm freehub with the cog and spacer kit you mentioned would be very good and you could dial in the chainline using the inner or outer chainring as you prefer.

Gearing may take some experimentation.  You'd try one ratio, then something else, then maybe go back to the original one.  Something like 46/18 might be a good start.  I like around 67 gear inches for fixed gear on road.    YMMV.

Ginz

[greenteadrinkers]

I'd suggest keeping it as simple as you possible can. I have a SimpleOne, which I do love. This past spring I commissioned my LBS to build a high end wheel set, Paul track hubs, Cliffhanger rims, Compass Hurricane Pass tires. There's a White Industries 16/19 in the back, Sugino 40/32 up front. For flats, I've found the 40/16 is all I need. Trails, the 32/19, is great, challenging, but great. For bars, the Jitensha flat bar, sounds like drops suit your needs better. In Tucson, do you need fenders? For stuff, I throw on a Carradice long flap hung off a B17, otherwise, I keep it simple, no racks, none of the usual part barnacles (I'm a minimalist). The best thing I did part-wise, was invest in a great wheel set. If you're doing some long commutes, consider investing in a top shelf wheel set, possibly with a nice dyno light rig. On another note, Riv. really had a winner with the SimpleOne, it's a wonder it did't catch on, maybe folks wanted it to be a QuickBeam, I know I did at the time. Now, with that wheel set, and those Compass tires, I can't get off it. It's a juvenile delinquent BMX time machine. Next up , I'd love to find a Hunqapillar, then, I'd have the trifecta, SimpleOne, S. Hillborne (currently being built up at Analog), Hunqapillar. Hope all this noise helps.

Scott

[Max S]

I will echo what Scott here said. I've converted a few bikes to single speed / fixed gear, and simplicity has been key. I personally rarely flipped the wheels or switched to a different chainring mid-ride – it sort of defeated the purpose of the whole thing for me. That said, maybe my conversions weren't really set up very well for the convenience of the "switching". 

I just got a SimpleOne (thanks, another Max!) and it's set up to do these switches more easily, so I'll experiment with it. Although my hunch is that for 99% of the rides I intend to do with it ("easy ride with family", "go get ice cream", "pick up coffee and bread and cheese", "quickie / pick-me-up at sunrise / sunset", "commute-to-work-in-too-low-a-gear-so-I-am-not-getting-all-sweaty"), picking one gear for the season (e.g. 63" for winter and 72" for summer) and sticking with it will be the way to go. 

The conundrum to me right now is what fenders to use – track ends are a royal pain with fenders, if you ask me. But if I'm "fixing" the gear, then it's less of a pain. 

- Max "don't break / brake it if it's fixed" in A2

[Deacon Patrick]

Thoughts on "shifting" a single speed/fixed. The only reason to do this I've encountered, in broadest terms, is mountains and trails or roads that may as well be trails. I've done century rides on my QB on roads in the mountains that never needed the lower gear. But ride in high gear to the trail head a few miles away and riding the trail is walking the trail unless I shift. It takes less than a minute. Fenders are a non-issue if using a Dingle or Dos, but make the process a frustrating one for flip/flop.

With abandon,

Patrick

[Wally Estrella]

Here's my Bregalad in its current form.  With recent swap out of that HEAVY Wald 137 to the half version of the "racing" basket.  So, much faster now ;)  I should paint it orange to make it the fastest basket. Also, a swap late last year from Nitto Noodles to Nitto Dirt Drops (Rm-013).  The bars still need to be wrapped.  Oh, also TRP RRL brake levers -love those!  My only "don't skimp on the pimp" suggestion for you.

If you think you'll need lights then consider a dynohub set-up.  I can't recall the gearing, but know it's 62-63 gear inches.  It works well for me along the New England coast line.  I've climbed up short, punchy 13% grades w/ it, but wouldn't want to do that for a metric or full century w/ 6,000+ elevation.  It's seen many miles total.  Many commuter rides, general errands, a few centuries each year.  

Even after purchasing a smooth as hot butter ti bike, this is still to go bike in my bike barn. 

Ack! Ack! Hopefully the image comes through correctly.  It's showing as upside down on the upload, yet normal on my viewer.  Anyhow if upside down, well, that's just the kind of bike it really is. Defies gravity and everything else!

This hasn't lowered or increased my average MPH.  The just ride pace is when I get there.

Enjoy the ride! Stay well!

Wally

On Wednesday, May 20, 2020 at 9:00:05 PM UTC-4, Scott Calhoun wrote:

[Scott Calhoun]

Thanks for all the thoughtful replies and excellent QB photos. 

Ginz--I'm leaning toward NOT re-spacing the frame back to 120mm. I don't care about riding fixed (on this bike) and nd, I have more 130mm wheelsets that will work at the ready. I'll just buy that Surly spacer kit. I like the sound of 46/18 to start with on gearing--with 38mm tires that gives me a 70 inch gear to start with and that seems like a good middle ground. I could also try a 19t which would bring me down to 66.5 gear inches.

Thinking I'll pick up one of these 46t Stonglight rings from Canada: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stronglight-Zicral-Campagnolo-Fit-Chainring-135-BCD-42-46-50-52T-10-9spd-5-Bolt/192879355346?hash=item2ce88165d2:m:mXdWYG_3gj7tuQz0HyiOEaQ

Unless one of you can convince me that I there is a reason to run a narrow/wide ring set up. I can get a narrow/wide 46t 135bcd ring from China--currently shipping in the July/August timeframe!  

You reminded me that the generation of Campy Record 135bcd crankset that I have used to call for a 102mm BB. I dug deeper in the BB bin and produced a Chorus 102mm bb. Once the frame arrives, I'll have to do some trial and error testing on the chainline. I'm worried the 102mm bb, designed for skinny tired road racers, might bring the chain in too close to run fatter (43mm) tires. If so, I suppose I can go back to the SKF 110mm and then fiddle with the rear cog/spacers to get the chainline right.  

Thanks again,

Scott

[Drew Saunders]

• What would the original Sugino crankset gearing look like? What would Grant's preferred set up be?
• What about rear cog(s)? 16t, 17t? 

My orange QB came with 32-40-chainguard on the Sugino cranks, and that's what's still on there. The chain guard is quite nice.

 

It came with an 18t freewheel, which I immediately replaced with a Dos-Eno 17-19. I added a 22 on the flop side of the flip-flop wheels that are original. The combinations that actually work with the long slanting dropouts are 40x17 (which I use almost exclusively), 40x19 (easy to change into), 32x19 (I've gone up some real hills with this, years ago) and 32x22. I call it the world's least convenient 4-speed. If you want to keep your Campy and stick to an ~8t difference, I suppose you could use a 39-47 or 39-46.

[Scott Calhoun]

Robert--I'll have to look into the Sackville/wald combo. Wally has me eyeing the racing basket now for extra speed. haha. Will the sackville stay put in the lower basket? 

Re: honjos--I'm down to one bike with fenders now, and in the desert that is plenty. I love the way honjos look, but in Tucson, fenders not needed about 360 days a year. 

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[Scott Calhoun]

Thanks Drew,

That is helpful to know what the QBs shipped with. I'm wondering now if I should abandon the Campy crank idea and try to find a Sugino like the OEM spec. Riv doesn't offer a 32-40 sets currently. The closest thing they have is the 30-42 clipper, and it is only available in black right now. https://www.rivbike.com/collections/cranks-bbs/products/crank-new-albion-sc-guard-42t-x-30t

That said, I don't really see myself getting off the bike to change gears. It reminds me of having multiple wheelsets for one bike--changing the wheelsets out it sounds good in theory--but rarely seems to happen in practice. 

[Scott Calhoun]

Great advice--especially about the gravity defying properties of your bike. I'm with you on the RRL levers--by far my favorite and the levers that generally prevent me from switching to brifters. 

Question about the racer Wald--does it hold a Sackville sack and what size basket did you get? 

[John G.]

Scott! I'm glad you finally got your hands on a Quickbeam.

Some quick observations on gearing: you and I ride similar speeds and distances. I find with the original Quickbeam gearing, I have no problem maintaining those speeds. Most of the climbing I do on my QB are short, punchy, 200-ft, 8% climbs in the Palisades. I do sometimes need to get out of the saddle to get up steeper climbs than that.

On Wednesday, May 20, 2020 at 9:00:05 PM UTC-4, Scott Calhoun wrote:

[Robert Gardner]

Hi Scott --

I've added a few pictures of my QB. It is my daily, commuting, grocery getter, go anywhere in DC bike. If I HAD to change anything, it would probably be....well, nothing. I picked it up with standard Nitto Noodle's and I've decided to shift it up a bit. Also added the fancy Nitto seat post, Swift Zeitgeist setup, two chuckbuckets (the RandiJo coffee cup holder is my favorite) and dynamo setup. I have two Riv's, and I love my Roadini, but this is what I ride every day. 

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[Wally Estrella]

Yes, it holds the Sackville. It fits just the same, just not covered higher on the sides as the full 137 basket.  Hobbit sized at 68.5.  I have used brass clasps to hold it in place on the 137.  Never any issues w/ it, if clasped down.  With the racing basket, even with clasping it down, it will bounce around some and reposition.  Not falling out of the basket walls though.  Not a show stopper, but I've since been using either the Cap'n Hook net or a John's Irish Strap over the top of it.

[Philip Williamson]

Quickbeams are great. I’ve had one since 2014.
Baskets are also great. I just use a net. I also usually have a Molle bag or Alice bag strapped to the outside rear of the basket with a a tube and tools.

I would recommend not respacing; just run a road wheel with spacers. You can also create your own dingle setup that way, too. I feel the QB is a run what you brung frame - use what you have, and replace it later. Over time it’ll evolve, but if you can get it rolling with shed parts, that’s great. Your parts kit seems perfect.

I like a 72” gear, but I’ve used other sizes happily.

Philip
Santa Rosa, CA

[Minh]

i love how many replies you got after only 2 days and so many QB owners chiming in.

i dont think there is a wrong way to build it other than the chainline question. i went with a dos freewheel in the back on a phils flip flop hub and its plenty of range for me.

heres a pic of how i setup mine, https://photos.app.goo.gl/YLVqsKY5kNJqPQ9j6

[johnboy]

On my Simpleone (sim plee oh née) I’m using a 110bcd double crank with 34/42 rings and a White Ind. Dos freewheel 17/19. Maybe with some fussing with the chain length I could use all 4 combos, but as it is only 3 are usable, small/small puts the quick release partly off the drop out. Gears (using nom. 27” wheel) are 67”, 60” and 48”. Flip side of hub is a 23t freewheel. Most rides I do I don’t shift out of the 67”. Sometimes simple gets complicated....John

[Scott Calhoun]

Good to know, I was wondering if I'll be able to use all four potential gears. I ordered a 135bcd 46t ring for my crankset in addition to the 39t ring I had. I also have Surly 18 and 21t cassette cogs on the way for the rear. Other than a few parts taking god's own time to ship--my build is coming along pretty well. 

I'll report back soon.

[Dave Grossman]

Interesting to see how the bike has come along.  I originally bought that frame from someone on the forum who mistakenly listed it as a 62cm.  Reid ended up with it next.  Now Scott is having fun with it.  The life of a Riv.