Most of the weight you *feel* on a Clem while pedaling - especially up hill - is in those hefty budget hoops, I think you would get a kick out of really nice wheels on it. Even with a nice Schmidt SON hub they'll probably be lighter overall, and certainly so in the rear. So wheels yes..I probably wouldn't dive too deep into replacing other stuff.
Tires are next. What tires do you use? For example, one Schwalbe Big Ben wired tire in 650b can weigh up to 850g! Whereas a similar width Thunder Burt can weigh as little as 460g. For a pair of tires that's 800g or almost 2 lbs! Using lightweight Schwalbe tubes in those size can easily save you another 100g for a pair.
I think you have a golden opportunity to conduct an experiment to see if the weight saving ok your Clem is worth your money. Go ahead and buy the lightweight parts for your Cheviot now and use them on your Clem until your Cheriot arrives. This way you can see how your Clem feels a little lighter and decide if it's worth it for you to have light parts on your Clem. If not, just take the light weight parts off and put them on the Cheviot.
Franklyn
John
Niles, CA
Buy a Roadeo and put upright bars on it. I guarantee your Clem will be relegated to "shopping bike" status afterward.
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On Apr 8, 2020, at 7:31 AM, franklyn <sin...@msn.com> wrote:
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8 pounds, wow! That would feel like a huge difference.Nope, I’ll never not enjoy a mixte-style bike. I just cannot give up the freedom of not being constrained by a top tube. YOU should buy a Cheviot. Because having two bikes that are significantly different makes sense! 😜😂 All the cool kid are buying Cheviots.But wow, 26 pounds would be great!In fun,
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On Wednesday, April 8, 2020 at 10:31:22 AM UTC-4, Brian Campbell wrote:Buy a Roadeo and put upright bars on it. I guarantee your Clem will be relegated to "shopping bike" status afterward.D'oh hit post before I finished! I have an AHH (old version) that with fenders,dyno lights weighs 26lbs. I had the same bike built up with racks and bags that I rarely used. When I removed them I save 8lbs and it made a huge difference for me. To me having two bikes that are significantly different makes sense. Having a non-mixte style bike might be something you really enjoy.I can tell you from my own experience riding a lighter bike can be more enjoyable. It simply depends on what you are using the bike for.
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8 pounds, wow! That would feel like a huge difference.Nope, I’ll never not enjoy a mixte-style bike. I just cannot give up the freedom of not being constrained by a top tube. YOU should buy a Cheviot. Because having two bikes that are significantly different makes sense! 😜😂 All the cool kid are buying Cheviots.But wow, 26 pounds would be great!In fun,
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On Wednesday, April 8, 2020 at 10:31:22 AM UTC-4, Brian Campbell wrote:Buy a Roadeo and put upright bars on it. I guarantee your Clem will be relegated to "shopping bike" status afterward.D'oh hit post before I finished! I have an AHH (old version) that with fenders,dyno lights weighs 26lbs. I had the same bike built up with racks and bags that I rarely used. When I removed them I save 8lbs and it made a huge difference for me. To me having two bikes that are significantly different makes sense. Having a non-mixte style bike might be something you really enjoy.I can tell you from my own experience riding a lighter bike can be more enjoyable. It simply depends on what you are using the bike for.
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Bill S
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I put a set of Fatty Rumpkin Greens on my Clementine, and they definitely make for a more responsive ride than the Big Bens.
Roberta: I did get one puncture which sent some goo flying because I didn't use fenders, but it sealed up right away and got me back home. I had some cleanup to do later but it was a lot less work than if I'd had to stop and swap tubes on the road.
Conclusion: Don't be like Old School Joe, go tubeless, be light with no flats!
On Apr 8, 2020, at 9:05 AM, Melanie <myo...@gmail.com> wrote:
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Whether there's actually a market for them worth Grant/Riv's trouble is above my pay grade, but I see Leah's point of wanting to recommend a Riv to her neighbors and not feeling like she could. My 45cm Clem L was pretty stout for such a small step-thru frame..great for short-not-125-lbs. me, but really how many guys are looking for that frame? I think a 45 Clem fitting the criteria in your quote makes more sense.
You don't need a compressor if you decide to go tubeless. Just get a good pump with a reserve tank, like this one:
You pump up the tank to a very high pressure, the flip a switch & whoosh the air goes into your tire super fast. It's very nifty & entirely human powered.
Kent Peterson
Eugene, OR USA
On Apr 8, 2020, at 1:52 PM, in Dallas nick <trueg...@att.net> wrote:
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They need to be checked every other day or so, especially if you run the lower pressures they allow. I'm used to checking tubed tires once a week.
Conclusion: If you get them seated and pumped up from James and stay on it, you're good with tubeless tires.
I think like all things, how long your tubeless tires will hold air depends on many factors. Some of it depends on the tires. The supple tires I like to ride from Rene Herse/Compass have side walls weaved from fabrics. Air leaks from the interface between the rim and the tire as well as the sidewalls, slowly. With sealants inside, the leaking air pushes the sealant toward the crevices, thereby sealing them. The first 1-3 days of setting up a tubeless tire involves a rinse-repeat cycle of pumping up the tire, spinning it to distribute the sealant, letting the crevices get sealed up, adding sealant and pumping up. After a handful or less of this cycle, the tire I have typically holds air very well.
I work about two hours from my house, and before the pandemic, I would travel to my office, stay for 3 nights, and come home for the weekend. I would need to pump my tires, once set up properly, maybe twice in 3 weeks. I ride 48mm RH/Compass tires are 30-35 psi and I am just north of 200 lbs. I top off sealant (through the valve with the core taken off) every 5-6 months. I heard from a local shop that Orange Seal's endurance variety can last longer. I bought a bottle and will give it a try.
The difficulty in seating only happens at set up. Afterward even if the tire is completely flat you can pump it back up no problem.
In case you need to replace your tire, or use an used tire on another tubeless set up, there are ways without going to the shop. Another person already mentioned that they have floor pumps nowadays that has a reservoir that unleashes a big volume of air at once. I don't have that, but I just go down to the neighborhood gas station with my Schrader to presto valve converter, throw in a quarter and use the compressor there.
Just for reference. I had a tire that I set up once and never had to worry about seating the bead until it was time to replace the tire.
Franklyn
On Apr 8, 2020, at 7:13 PM, 'Abcyclehank' via RBW Owners Bunch <rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
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This was not my experience. I had two go flat (because I let them sit) and couldn't reseat them with my floor pump.
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On Apr 8, 2020, at 8:02 PM, Brian Campbell <bdcamp...@gmail.com> wrote:
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If they are, SP/Kaisai are significantly lighter and more efficient than Shimano DN-3N7x or 3N80 dynamos. They are pretty close to Schimdt SON hubs in terms of weight and efficiency but are about half the price. SON hubs have some advantages:
1. SON produces a wide body version that makes wheel build stronger because they ate less dished.
2. SON has a version. That allows you to have wires built into your fork legs and therefore looks like there is no wire sticking out from the hub
3. SON hubs can rotate in either directions so the electrode can be either on the drive or line-drive side to allow flexibility I options in where you want to mount your lamp.
4. SON hubs have this nifty pressurized hub chamber to prevent moisture from building up.
That being said, these benefits are marginal for my use cases so all but one of my and my wife's dynamo set ups (and we have 7 bikes between the two of us that have dynamos) use SP hubs.
Franklyn
On Apr 8, 2020, at 9:55 PM, 'Abcyclehank' via RBW Owners Bunch <rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
Leah wants SON dyno hubs apparently on both her current Clem 650B and future Cheviot 700c now. Everyone is wasting their time proposing otherwise. This is her dream bikes are her vice. Don’t try to save her money. Just tell her what to have Rich build up for her.And Yes Leah I have wheel sets that would likely perfectly meet your needs. Since you would not sell me your Benz I will just get around to posting a major FS post for others benefit.Ryan “not salty just 4 miles from fresh watered shark free Lake Michigan” HankinsonJust ride just swim just enjoy the flowers when they bloom
On Wednesday, April 8, 2020 at 12:02:00 AM UTC-4, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:I’m not fully committing to this yet. Roberta and I get into trouble because we talk on Marco Polo and then we get ideas and then we like each other’s ideas and the next thing we know our wallets are on fire.
So, I am ordering a Cheviot, and I am spending extra $ to build it with light parts. But that bike is a long way off, months, in fact. Meanwhile, Roberta is giving her beloved Appaloosa a makeover and it is getting lots of new parts and she’s having all the fun. And since we’re #Rivsisters and I’m like that little sister who wants what her sister has, I want to explore what it would take to lighten up my Clem L, which is my only bike at present, and which is quite heavy. You’ll have heard me mention this in Joe’s What Is A Cheviot thread. If my Clem could lose a little weight it would be the most perfect bike anyone could dream up. A Susie version of Clems would be just so ideal - someone should tell Riv.
Anyway, if I got aluminum Bosco bars, and new wheels (don’t ask me what kind, how would I know?) would this make my bike feel considerably lighter? I don’t think I can give up my front derailleur because I use it for Killer Hill. And what if I wanted to add dyno while I was at it? Would that negate my weight savings? Also, I’m keeping my racks; I can’t part with those. Maybe I’m not the best candidate for this...
Has anyone built a Clem up with lighter parts? Does it make a big difference? As in, is it worth the money?
Thanks!
Leah
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So I get the advantages in ride, lightness and puncture resistance of tubeless, but for a Luddite like me who does all his own work all I see is more stuff and more work. I'm not into it.
As for tires being a big player in all this, OH yeah. I've run various Schwalbe Marathons and Big Apples and such with all their flat-protection goodies, and they're straight-up boat anchors compared to the Compass/RH Barlow Pass on my Frank Jones. ALL Rivs - Clem, Chev, et al - benefit from nice light tires.
Rob
Which should be motivating you to do that experiment.Ride your bike, weigh it, strip off the bags, racks, fenders, kick stand, etc., weigh it again, and ride it again.Note how many lbs you removed and how different (or similar) the striped bike is to the original configuration.
On Wednesday, April 8, 2020 at 7:50:08 AM UTC-7, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:8 pounds, wow! That would feel like a huge difference.Nope, I’ll never not enjoy a mixte-style bike. I just cannot give up the freedom of not being constrained by a top tube. YOU should buy a Cheviot. Because having two bikes that are significantly different makes sense! 😜😂 All the cool kid are buying Cheviots.But wow, 26 pounds would be great!In fun,LeahSent from my iPadOn Apr 8, 2020, at 7:43 AM, Brian Campbell <bdcamp...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Wednesday, April 8, 2020 at 10:31:22 AM UTC-4, Brian Campbell wrote:Buy a Roadeo and put upright bars on it. I guarantee your Clem will be relegated to "shopping bike" status afterward.D'oh hit post before I finished! I have an AHH (old version) that with fenders,dyno lights weighs 26lbs. I had the same bike built up with racks and bags that I rarely used. When I removed them I save 8lbs and it made a huge difference for me. To me having two bikes that are significantly different makes sense. Having a non-mixte style bike might be something you really enjoy.I can tell you from my own experience riding a lighter bike can be more enjoyable. It simply depends on what you are using the bike for.
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See Ken, this is where I just can't get into tubeless. I've owned a couple bikes that cake to me that way, which was dandy because they were already seated and pumped up; but then I needed sealant, a tool to unscrew the valve to add sealant, and tire plugs. Ok so what do I take as tire repair stuff? Whelp, I guess I could take all this in case I need it, plus a tube and tire levers if the trick to getting home after a puncture is to pop a tube in there. Then when it's time to seat a tire I'm going to need a machine because my very good Topeak floor pump isn't good enough, or I'm not good enough at pumping.
So I get the advantages in ride, lightness and puncture resistance of tubeless, but for a Luddite like me who does all his own work all I see is more stuff and more work. I'm not into it.
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kim in az
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On Apr 10, 2020, at 10:21 AM, DHans <dhansf...@gmail.com> wrote:
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Oh Ryan, so salty. I didn’t know you had 650B - I did know you had 700 c. I am thinking of getting dyno though...would need to have dyno compatibility...do you have those in your basement somewhere too? 😜
I’m not good at pulling parts off one bike and installing on another! It was better to just sell the whole Betz. Don’t you think I deserve some new wheels? Betz is 8 year old now. And not compatible with dyno.
Sent from my iPad
On Apr 8, 2020, at 7:13 PM, 'Abcyclehank' via RBW Owners Bunch <rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
Leah,I have a wonderful 650B velocity wheel set you may try. Also have g-ones tires and Hetras you could try. A different size rim will require an adjustment to brake pads.It does frustrate me slightly that you ignore my advice about wheel and tire improvement on ride and weight until 4-5 others state the same claim. Oh well what do I know.For the record the least expensive option would have been to simply swap parts wheels etc from the Betz build over to the Clem to see which modifications were worth the build.However since you boxed up the bike before trying the other wheels and had no mechanic to help you with the swap and now the Benz has a new owner; therefore shopping for and buying new parts (wheels and tires 1st) buying used parts or borrowing some from me is really your only options.Sincerely,Ryan HankinsonWest Michigan
On Wednesday, April 8, 2020 at 12:02:00 AM UTC-4, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:I’m not fully committing to this yet. Roberta and I get into trouble because we talk on Marco Polo and then we get ideas and then we like each other’s ideas and the next thing we know our wallets are on fire.
So, I am ordering a Cheviot, and I am spending extra $ to build it with light parts. But that bike is a long way off, months, in fact. Meanwhile, Roberta is giving her beloved Appaloosa a makeover and it is getting lots of new parts and she’s having all the fun. And since we’re #Rivsisters and I’m like that little sister who wants what her sister has, I want to explore what it would take to lighten up my Clem L, which is my only bike at present, and which is quite heavy. You’ll have heard me mention this in Joe’s What Is A Cheviot thread. If my Clem could lose a little weight it would be the most perfect bike anyone could dream up. A Susie version of Clems would be just so ideal - someone should tell Riv.
Anyway, if I got aluminum Bosco bars, and new wheels (don’t ask me what kind, how would I know?) would this make my bike feel considerably lighter? I don’t think I can give up my front derailleur because I use it for Killer Hill. And what if I wanted to add dyno while I was at it? Would that negate my weight savings? Also, I’m keeping my racks; I can’t part with those. Maybe I’m not the best candidate for this...
Has anyone built a Clem up with lighter parts? Does it make a big difference? As in, is it worth the money?
Thanks!
Leah
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Absolutely!
Leah
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