My recent "CO-GAP" 7-day trip

[Bikie#4646]

While I have done unsupported multi-day trip from Pittsburgh to DC (GAPCO) a number of times, this time I accompanied friend, Dan on his 7-day trip from east-to-west in the opposite direction. A bit of a new perspective on the trails along the C&O Towpath in Maryland and the Great Allegheny Passage in Pennsylvania. 

I was on my Sam Hillborne, which is my dedicated touring bike, mostly. It serves me very well for this sort of thing. I have a Homer Hilsen I use for mixed-surface riding day trips and love it. It could probably handle touring, but I suspect the slightly stouter Hillborne is more reliable for multi-day loads.

We chose to go a bit early, the end of April, and were met with a variety of weather conditions, from sunny (even hot) days to cold (down to freezing one night) with a bit of rain thrown in for fun. We were prepared for it so the cooler temps were welcomed.

The benefits - especially this year when many more folks will undoubtedly be out riding these trails - were fewer trail users and more available campsites and fewer bugs along the Potomac River. (Not that is usually a big problem for us, even in the summer.)

My Flickr trip album of the trip is chock full unfortunately - for my own memories - so I apologize in advance. This time around, however, I tried not to duplicate photos of the numerous and more recognizable landmarks for the GAPCO, which I have done before.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/bikecrazy-paul/albums/72157719131492162

Happy trails to all,

Paul Germain

Midlothian, Va.

[aeroperf]

Was this route that they call The Great Allegheny Passage?
https://www.aarp.org/travel/vacation-ideas/outdoors/info-2021/rail-trails-for-biking.html

I’ve wanted to do that for a few years now.  I’ve thought about using my Sam, but the trail seemed more suited for my Soma Saga tourer.  How did the Sam hold up?  What tires?  Thanks for any further information!

[aeroperf]

Sorry, I see that it is the Great Allegheny Passage.  I should have read more closely.
Thanks for your post!

[Bikie#4646]

Hey aeroperf, this is my third time doing the trip on the Hillborne and it does just beautifully well. It's up to carrying four panniers and the front basket w/Sugarloaf bag, tent on the rear rack top, as you can see from the photos. It's pretty stable and I ride in comfort thanks to the Moustache bars and upright Nitto mountain stem. I'm running the old Vittoria Randonneur / Voyager Hypers - very nice tires which I think are discontinued now. I like to tour with fenders, so I'm using the 35mm version, but would run 38mm's without fenders.

As to the East-to-West version of the GAPCO, we liked it fine. The only drawback is the 3-hour climb out of Cumberland, Maryland up to the Eastern Continental Divide. (As opposed to a rapid and fun decent going in the other direction.) 

For those who have not experienced it, The Great Allegheny Passage starts in Pittsburgh, PA and ends in Cumberland, MD and the C&O Towpath Nat'l Park picks up all the way into Washington D.C. We did about 50 miles a day for a total of 350 miles, almost all off-road except our start riding from (Amtrak) Union Station in DC to get to Milepost Zero on the C&O and the arrival in Pittsburgh to reach our nearby hotel. (We reserved a mid-sized SUV for our return to Richmond, Va., which you can see in the last few images.)

[Bikie#4646]

aeroperf, by the way, the two maps you can see in my initial Flickr album image are the "official" maps for both sections and free:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/bikecrazy-paul/51160526433/in/album-72157719131492162/

They can be very helpful planning your trip, but give me a shoutout if you have specific questions. Amtrak offers bike service on both ends (and mid-way in Cumberland) but don't expect the end of service the West Coast gets for trains. Usually one bike baggage car a day, not necessarily convenient hours either!

[ascpgh]

I  really enjoy seeing all the variations of folks' trips and iterations of outfitting on this route. I'm fortunate to be a twenty minute bike ride from the Pittsburgh end and frequent the GAP portions and points along that way that are fun detours and sightseeing.

 I started riding on the GAP with my Rambouillet which doesn't have a load capacity for self supported travel but as a result I've refined my options for refreshments, meals and accommodations. My favorites are two day rides from home, either out to Ohiopyle for the night and back or to Cumberland with a overnighting in Ohiopyle and Amtrak home from Cumberland at 7pm. It is the use I patterned my custom bike to support. 

Last year I rode several centuries out and back on the GAP to take advantage of the crowd thinning weather, my familiar trailside resources and the relatively level grades. 

Andy Cheatham

Pittsburgh

[Pat Smith]

Nice pics Paul thanks for sharing. A friend and I are doing the DC to Pitt direction later this year. I've only ever done overnight bike camping trips and he's never even done that. Hoping to do it in 50 days. We live in DC.

Originally had this planned for end of August, but life got in the way so now we are shooting for mid October. Gonna need some extra layers for sure. Do you know when everything starts to shut down for the season?

Pat in DC

[RichS]

Hi Paul,

Good report! Looks like you and friend Dan had a fine time. Your visual and written account is much appreciated. This trip has been high on my want to ride list for some time. Would late spring (which worked well for you) or fall be the optimal seasons to be on the trail? 

Thanks very much.

Best,

Rich in ATL

[Bikie#4646]

Hey Rich, you're welcome for the pics. I have done the trip 5-6 times in many variations, so can supply you (privately, so as not to bore others) with more Flickr albums, most with more "iconic" landmarks along the GAPCO. The trails are seldom what you would call "busy or crowded" but this year may present more trail traffic than in the past. That could mean sharing the smaller campsites with others. 

As to timing, both spring and late fall are probably my favorites, but if you want to avoid possible cold, summer is fine, too. The C&O campsites are along the Potomac, so  a bit more buggy during the summer. They are free, and each varies in capacity. All provide primitive water pumps (teated with iodine) and a clean portajohn. 

Both the C&O and the GAP provide enough shade to have relief from the sun. Also, the GAP being mostly Pennsylvania, is both more northern and higher elevation, so cooler. (Up and over the Eastern Continental Divide.) 

The C&O can be ridden/toured all year long, but winter can present some mud puddles. (There are efforts by the park in many places in the eastern sections of the C&O to provide smoother and drier "pavement" - a hard composite of some sort, which cuts down on the dodging and weaving around mud puddles, which can get a bit tiresome if you're doing 50 miles a day.) The GAP is mostly cinder, but can get soft during prolonged rains. 

The GAP is open all year, but gets more snow and freezing temps. Importantly, the main tunnel, the Big Savage, underwent expensive restoration and is closed during the coldest portion of winter. (Closing and reopening dates are provided on their FB page.) No good and safe alternative detours I know of. I've ridden the section of the GAP between Cumberland, MD, at the eastern end, up to Rockwood, PA for camping overnight as late as Thanksgiving and the tunnel was open that late in the year. It was fun but temps did dip to about 24 degrees overnight, necessitating a winter-weight sleeping bag. I did it to say I could do it! 

There is lots of good info out there for both trails and both have active FB groups posting current conditions. Good luck! Have a blast. 

[Bikie#4646]

Pat, I would say most of the trail towns' resupply points are open all year, but not all. The campsites on the C&O are open year-round. Camping on the GAP is trickier during winter, but I would say likely open until late November - a guess. A better source of first-hand information can be had from the various FB groups for both trails. Not uncommon for the GAP to have snow as a trail surface mid-winter. (Can you say, cross country skiing?) See my answer to Rich about additional winter closures.

By the way, as to extra layers, the C&O can be quite warm and chilly in the same trip. Though carrying extra clothes and gear can be a hassle, better safe than sorry. I find wool layers will pretty much cover all scenarios and needs little in the way of washing mid-trip. Also, wool can make all the difference in the rain! 

Paul Germain

Midlothian, Va

On Monday, May 24, 2021 at 10:04:11 AM UTC-4 pbsm...@gmail.com wrote:

[ascpgh]

Pat, all I can add since I've not self-supported the GAP-CO trip is that some services may be less extensive after October. For the GAP portion, October is a highlight for foliage, decreased bugs and the best chance of the year's months for a dry ride. A bigger concern on the C&O, even days following rain. Mud is a thing on the C&O. The western section can be avoided (on the other side of the canal) on the Western Maryland Rail Trail which is 26 miles of pavement.  It is a different organization with a smaller scope of mileage to maintain but has a higher expectation of the trail surface. You'll appreciate it if raining as you close in on Cumberland.

The fine limestone bed of the GAP is consistent and does make a slurry in downpours, I've ridden to Ohiopyle with half being an utter downpour, the latter tapered off and was wet. With an adequate flap on my Rambouillet's fender my drivetrain feet and BB were spotless other than incidental spray from the front fender exit. I would recommend fenders for rides on this route if just to keep the flung dust from the front wheel from the constant contamination of your drivetrain. More so when wet. Many services have a hose with which you can do a field expedient drivetrain ungunking. A water bottle with nozzle can suffice if it's bad. Choose and have chain lube you are familiar with using. What goes for weeks at home might not hold through lunch on the trail. 

The use the GAP trail gets is undoubtable now and you should be OK. Merchants aren't in business to miss sales and there are lots of riders after the end of September. The Facebook page is very active. I submitted a large tree down across the trail between Duquesne and McKeesport (20 mile mark for me) on an out and back century. It was cut and removed by the time I passed it again, 60 miles of riding later. 

Services were more effected by the pandemic than usual seasons. I rode more on the GAP last year to get isolated, it's part of the attraction for me but it kept away many of the through or long distance riders. On nice days and weekends you will be able to gauge your proximity to access points and services by the "local" users. They will walk their dogs, run and leisurely pedal cruisers several miles from the parking areas and become your signal that town is near. 

Andy Cheatham

Pittsburgh

[Pat Smith]

Thanks for the tips. Sounds like mid-October will be perfect!

Here's to hoping life doesn't get in the way... Again. 

Pat in DC

[R Shannon]

Paul and Andy,

Thank you for all your great advice. I'm going to log this for future use:-)

Best,

Rich in ATL

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[Joseph]

Did this ride with a friend and my wife a few summers ago from Pittsburgh to D.C.  

Friend rode his Atlantis set up as a single speed and I rode a Specialized AWOL also set up as a single speed since the entire thing is a rail to trail.  

My wife rode a newly purchased Cheviot.  Super fun trip and I suggest Stopping in Hancock at the C&O Bicycle shop.  

You can sleep in there lot in a fenced off Chicken coop like thing for humans.  You can also shower there.

Joseph in Chicago

[marshmonster]

Pat, you mean 5 days? It's doable but you won't have much time to stop and check out some of the small towns, take a dip in the Potomac, ride around Antietem, etc. C&O was my first bikepacking trip. My only regret is not giving it more time, I kind of plowed through it in 3 days.

On Monday, May 24, 2021 at 9:04:11 AM UTC-5 pbsm...@gmail.com wrote:

[Bikie#4646]

Good for you Joseph, doing it on a SS bike! It's fun to do it that way, especially Pittsburgh-to-DC, since you can sit back and enjoy that downhill from the Eastern Continental Divide to Cumberland, Md. The first couple times, I was on a custom fully-rigid 29'er mountain bike towing a trailer. I felt I was a big rig truck driver! Unfortunately, trailers have too many drawbacks, including taking out your riding partners if you dodge a mud puddle! Here's a shot of my Tony Pereira-built bike and rig from a 2011 GAPCO trip:  

https://www.flickr.com/photos/bikecrazy-paul/6030487459/in/album-72157627412105198/

BTW, I still have the BOB trailer / Chris King rear hub adapters if anyone needs something that esoteric! (PM me.)

[Pat Smith]

Woops yeah 5 days. I figure 65 or so miles a day is a good 6-7 hours of riding. Seems like it would leave some time to explore. I'm also not sure how capable my friend and I are of doing that sort of mileage but time will tell.

Pat in DC

[Bikie#4646]

Pat in DC, You are very likely younger than I am, (closing in on 75 years,) but my travel companion for this trip is also younger by a decade and a much stronger rider than I. We both were glad we settled on 50 miles a day and tried our best to schedule the camps accordingly. After more than a decade of doing rail trail multi-day trips, three things I have found feels proper for me: 

1. A 5-minute break every 10 miles or so. Mainly to relive the butt and resupply the tank with a small snack. (I rarely stop for a "real" lunch unless it is some kind of coffee shop stop.)

2. 50 miles a day, riding loaded seems to prevent being too weary and making the trip a chore. A little time in camp, even if just a relaxed meal preparation is nice too. 

3. No matter how fast I can ride if I have too, like making up lost time, beating an incoming storm, etc., It's hard and unpleasant for me to sustain 12 - 14 mph all day. I seem to always fall back to 10 mph, unless riding surfaces, etc. are perfectly smooth and level. 

However, your schedule is your schedule and if it is inflexible, you may not have a choice. Depending on your exact start and finish locations, the GAPCO is pretty close to 350 miles (50 miles x 7 days). 

Paul Germain

Midlothian, Va.

[Pat Smith]

That's great advice Paul. Still finalizing all the details of our trip and we were going to take the MARC out to Harpers Ferry and camp and bike home one of these Fridays as a test run for mileage. 

Pat

[upyou...@yahoo.com]

Thanks for sharing your awesome pics of your ride.  My husband and I had planned on this ride last year but the world shut down.  Now it's not going to happen for me for a bit.  We had a car free trip planned from Trenton, NJ where we were going to take NJ transit to Philly with our bikes and then Amtrak from 30th street station out to Pittsburgh with our bikes to the start.  Bike and camp all the way to DC and then take the train back to Philly and on home to Trenton.  No car.  We will make it happen eventually.  Maybe with my new Platypus!!!

Kate-Trenton, NJ

[ascpgh]

Do it Kate!

Love the multi-mode (intermode if by train and bike?) travel to and from a big multi day bike and camp. Does Amtrak have bike capacity other than as luggage to/from Philadelphia? It'd be sweet if so. 

Maybe I could pull together a carless plan for the Philly Bike Expo in November from home. The RBW newsletter said they'll be going again. I think everyone's attention really surprised them and they realized that appreciation of their perspective isn't limited to the west coast, despite this group and the calls they take from around the country. 

Andy Cheatham

Pittsburgh

[upyou...@yahoo.com]

Hi Andy,

Amtrak has limited trains and routes, don't remember the details a year later.  I do know that there was no availability to travel along the northeast corridor.  New Jersey Transit is the only way we can take bikes on the train.  Just did a ride last weekend allowing us to access North Jersey trails and ride out the coast. Philly to Pittsburgh had options.  Check Amtrak site for details.

I am definitely going to the Philly Bike Expo this year.  Hey.....I'll probably be riding there and bring my brand spanking new Platypus up to the Riv booth for show and tell!!!

Kate-Trenton, NJ

[Bikie#4646]

Kate, I love your idea for transport to Pittsburgh from NJ. You are lucky to be able to roll on your bike with NJ Transit. I live in Richmond and all Amtrak south of DC offers only one train a day with a bike baggage car. It heads north to NYC on its way from Miami. I have to switch to another train at Union Station to head west, and the timing is not always good, especially when many trains run late. (This last one was 2 hours behind, so we set up our first camp 30 miles down on the C&O in the dark, not a big problem.) 

I suspect those westward Amtrak trains for bikes also are limited too, since we have occasionally Taken the train from Cumberland, Md. to do the GAP only and also had limited options.

Good luck!

Paul Germain

Midlothian, Va.

[John Hawrylak]

Kate 

I believe the only direct PHL-PIT Amtrak train is the #43 Pennsylvanian with dep/arr times of 1242 to 1959.   The Capitol Limited would be PHL to DC on NE Regional, changing to the Capitol for DC to PIT.  They show 1445 dep PHL and 2358 PIT arrival.   Pittsburgh is roughly the mid point of the DC to Chicago on the Capital.  Amtrak shows the Pennsylvanian allows checked bicycle service meaning you need to box the bike.  The Capitol and NE Regional trains 65, 66, 67 have carry on bicycle service which does not require a box (Amtrak does a good business between Cumberland and DC/PIT with the carry on for people riding the Western Maryland RR Trail).   

The Pennsylvanian 2000 arrival would permit riding to the GAP in McKeesport via the trails to Hot <Metal Bridge and over to Southside to Mckeesport RR trail and beyond to a trail campsite, probably by 0000.  Or overnight in hotel in Pittsburgh or Homestead (on the trial).  The Capitol 2358 arrival is challenging, although can head out to the trail via the same route.

John Hawrylak

Woodstown NJ 

On Sunday, May 30, 2021 at 12:37:39 PM UTC-4 upyou...@yahoo.com wrote:

[John Hawrylak]

Kate

You could also get the 3 Amtrak NE Regionals in Trenton for DC vs going to PHL on NJ transit, if taking the Capitol to PIT via DC.  You can also get the 43 Pennsylvanian (Pgh-NYC via 30th St Phl) in Trenton instead of going to PHL.  

Alternatively, can take the Capitol to Cumberland, and ride the WM RR Trail west to Pittsburgh and return on the Daytime Capital to DC ( I think it leaves PIT around 0500-0600 eastbound).   Need to time the end of the ride to pull an allnighter riding to downtown Pittsburgh on the trials early in the AM for the Capitol.  Pittsburgh uses the site of the old PRR train station on Liberty at Grant.  Just get on the Capitol, eat breakfast and sleep.  You'll be passing the WM RR trail on the other side of the rivers up to Meyersdale.  Get a NE Regional in DC and sleep some more.   

Or get to downtown Pgh later in AM and take the 43 Pennsylvanian direct to Trenton (again need a box).   Or drive to Pgh, stay outside the city to avoid a parking fee, leave car at motel, ride the trail to Cumberland and return to Pgh on the Capitol, ride to car in the early AM and go home or sleep.

John Hawrylak

Woodstown NJ

On Sunday, May 30, 2021 at 12:37:39 PM UTC-4 upyou...@yahoo.com wrote:

[ascpgh]

if starting from Pittsburgh late, I'd really put a plug  for getting yourself a better go of the first day by getting a room at a hotel in downtown (some really cool boutique offerings these days: Distrikt, The Industrialist, etc.) and have a nice dinner before setting out. Hotels in Homestead too, food's a bit chain-oriented in the area and it's ten miles down the path. 

If camping, the first place I'd recommend is the Dravo Campsite next to the cemetery on the Youghigheny River and is 40 miles from the Point.   It is not accessible to cars which is a good thing in my mind as you depart the urban western end of the GAP. Less formal than others a bit farther along but provides opportunity to set up camp as you are comfortable, given arrangement of other campers. 

Here is a site on the lower portion, maybe 200 yards off the trail, closer to the river (right in the image):

Andy Cheatham

Pittsburgh

[upyou...@yahoo.com]

Andy,

My thoughts exactly.  A hotel for 2 nights and explore the bike and brew spots in the area.  I love the museums there as well.  

Kate

[Bikie#4646]

Andy and Kate,

Ditto on Dravo. A nice camp with plenty of room (and large bathroom, nicer than most). Check out the old graveyard and local history there.

Paul Germain

Midlothian, Va