Sam Build - Wish Me Luck!

[Slacky Mac]

I had to say it:  "Just ship it to me".

If Vince knew any better, he would have talked me out of it.    I've never built a bike from (mostly) scratch before, and of course it had to be a Riv.  Gutsy.  There may be other less flattering words for it.

Learning from all of you has given me false bravado to forge ahead, so I shall.  Picking parts has been a delight.  I have been embracing the anticipation of arriving shiny bits as  patience will most definitely be virtue.  Just one more box from Riv and I'll have all I need.  I think I have a hammer around here somewhere.

If I blow it, you'll never hear from me again.  If it rolls fast and true, I will post a glorious, victorious photo from Flatistan, FL.

See any parts you like?  Wish me luck!

#goheavyontheboeshield

[Keith Paugh]

Looks amazing. Good luck!

k.

On Jan 14, 2023, at 7:37 AM, 'Slacky Mac' via RBW Owners Bunch <rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com> wrote:

I had to say it:  "Just ship it to me".

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[Kim Hetzel]

Hey Jake,

Where are your handlebars ? ...or did I not see them in your picture ?

Kim Hetzel

Yelm, WA.

[Slacky Mac]

Hi Kim,

Good eye!  I'll try my Albatross bar that never worked with my RB-1 and replace the original drops.  I feel like I will end up with something like a Nitto X Crumbworks bar (I'm a distance motorcyclist - love the palms-down hand position) but need to put some (s)miles on the Sam before figuring that out.

[Eliot Balogh]

I’ll play this game. None of those boxes are shaped like a square taper bottom bracket box. 

Good luck! Reach out for help as needed. It’s much less intimidating than it looks. Park tools has some excellent videos. Make sure you have some good grease and cable cutters. Also feel free to watch the meditative Bob Ross (Eric Marth) of bike building on YouTube for inspiration. I’ve been meaning to ask him if the babbling brook is fake but I don’t want to know the answer. 

Eliot

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[Slacky Mac]

Thanks Eliot - 

If there was an award for box recognition, you would have won it!   How about a free bandana?  The BB is on it's way from Riv, along with a S83 seat post to replace the stocker.   I also could not resist the blue BB cable guide - damn those guys.  I am armed with grease, spray, oil, lube, blue thread locker, and anti-seize.  I have the best bike stand in the world - a borrowed one!   If Eric knew how many of those YouTube watch counts were from me, he'd think me a stalker.  :-)  

[Eliot Balogh]

Yes! I would absolutely take a free bandana for funzies. Since you haven’t started the build yet, you might consider some Frame Saver. Especially if you’re anywhere near the sea (my Florida geography is quite limited but I think I see the ocean).

It used to be owned by JP Weigle and is now sold under Problem Solvers.

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[Slacky Mac]

Ping me your addy, and one spanking new Riv tealish-blue lugged bandana will be in the mail.   Frame Saver is a good idea.  I have T-9, but I believe Frame Saver is preferred.

[Kim Hetzel]

If you are unable to find Frame Saver, boiled linseed oil will work as well.

Kim Hetzel

Yelm, WA.

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[Kim Hetzel]

Sounds like a good plan. I hope those bars work out for you well.

Kim Hetzel

Yelm, WA.

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[Ted Durant]

On Jan 14, 2023, at 7:37 AM, 'Slacky Mac' via RBW Owners Bunch <rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com> wrote:

If Vince knew any better, he would have talked me out of it.    I've never built a bike from (mostly) scratch before, and of course it had to be a Riv.  Gutsy.  There may be other less flattering words for it.

 Fun thread! Be sure to post more photos as it comes together!

Normally I'm excited to build my own bikes, but I am having my new Sam and its parts shipped to The Cub House in San Marino, CA. The bike is going to live at my daughter's, about a mile from The Cub House, and I'm really pleased they'll do the build for me. Mine is Lime Olive and will feature plenty of little brass bits, along with the olive cable housing from SimWorks. Drop bar build, because that's how I roll.

Ted Durant 

Milwaukee, WI USA

[Eric Marth]

Looks like fun, Jake! Keep us posted ✌️

It's nice to see one of those old Nexave rapid risers going to use. 

Where did you pick up that Nissen housing? I just used some on a build. 

I think I have a royal blue safety triangle from Blue Lug, brand new. I'd trade for that silver one if you're interested. And nooooo big deal if not :) 

[Slacky Mac]

Ted - that beautiful Lime Olive color almost had be buying two Sams!  Yours will be really sharp with the brass.  Please share some pics once done.

Eric - Good eye on the derailer!  I admit I wanted the silver body more than the low-normal function, but am excited to try it.   I found the housing at Crust.  That is some stout stuff, my cable cutters are terrified.  My triangle is a keeper, but thanks for the offer.  Not a lot of reflective properties though, more cute than safe. 

Thanks all for the encouragement.  Counting down to the last box arrival this week.  

[Ted Durant]

> On Jan 15, 2023, at 7:06 PM, 'Slacky Mac'> wrote:
>
> Ted - that beautiful Lime Olive color almost had be buying two Sams! Yours will be really sharp with the brass. Please share some pics once done.
>
Hah! My other daughter lives in Maine and I have given some thought to building a silver Sam to keep at her house. :-)

Sim.works has the Nissen housing, for those that are interested.

Ted Durant
Milwaukee, WI

[R. Alexis]

Congratulations!!!! How exciting when the planning and futzing over the bike and parts finally come together. Any changes in parts and such while thinking over the build? I know when I built the Rivendell Mountain I went back and forth on several items. Thought of doing an 8 speed freewheel, but it seemed much when accounting for the hub set up and scarcity of 8 speed freewheels. Planned on doing a Nitto built Ritchey stem, but going with the Softride suspension stem was a strong pull. 

Take it slow, don't supper force anything. Take it easy with the hammer! Lol!!!

Thanks,

Reginald Alexis

[Bill Fulford]

Good luck with your build. I’m in a similar situation, but mine is a rebuild of a 15 year old Atlantis. I already have replaced the wheels with Atlas rims and am on my second silver crank so I’m not going new on those. New Paul brake levers and Canti brakes have arrived along with ergon handlebar grips. New monarch pedals, nitto stem, Rivendell shifters, and sim works super yummy tires have been collected. Im leaning toward the Nitto bull bar as my reinvented Atlantis is going to be an all rounder. The final cabling and adjustment will probably be done by my lbs as I like a well tuned bike and I don’t have enough confidence in my mechanics. 
It’s been fun researching and making decisions. ~Bill

[Scott Luly]

Bill:

Specifically, which model Nitto bull bar, clamp diameter, and width bar are you considering running?

I'm building an Atlantis, too. And I'm strongly considering a bull bar and wonder what you're on to.

Thanks,

Scott

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[Bill Fulford]

Hey Scott. I went with the Nitto face plater 135 mm for the stem. The bull bar is 70 cm wide and it’s a 31.8 diameter. It’s the one that Rivendell sells. I’m hoping that it’s a great fit. ~Bill

[maxcr]

The bull bar is great, I used an 85mm because that's what I had available and I also like my handlebars closer than most.

Here's my Atlantis for reference:

Max

[Scott Luly]

Max, thanks for the encouragement on bull bar and picture of your Atlantis. I ordered a pair from Riv this morning.

Kind regards,

Scott

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.

[Slacky Mac]

“Any changes in parts and such while thinking over the build?”

Reginald - yes, a few!   I switched to bar ends as thumbie mounts were temporarily out of stock and I was impatient.  Lots of downstream effects from that one.  I originally wanted to go with Ergon cork grips with something like a Billie or a Crumworks bar.  I’ll see if the bar-ends on my old Albatross and prodigious use of Newbaums works.  It’ll be creative (nice word for obviously DIY).  If it’s not comfy, easy enough to make a change.

With the gigantic pedals, I am concerned with toe-to-tire spacing, so am holding off on fenders.  Also no decision on racks. Crushed that the Nitto Potluck rack is NLA.

Getting there.  Riv box delivered today, more work this weekend.  Assuming the Nexave derailer doesn’t derail me, should be finished up and ready to ride.  (Whoa that’s a big photo - sorry). 

Jake

On Monday, January 16, 2023 at 1:46:21 AM UTC-5 R. Alexis wrote:

[Hetchins52]

Have you looked at the SimWorks "Obento" rack?

   https://www.sim.works/products/obento-rack

Pricey, but the "shiny" version seems to be in stock!

David Lipsky

Berkeley, CA

[Slacky Mac]

Have you looked at the SimWorks "Obento" rack?

Hi David, yes I did.  Jess (of Tunitas) directed me to the Obento after I inquired what that beautiful rack was on her bike pictured on the Riv site.  Sadly, not the same aesthetic as the Potluck.  Similar function though.

[Slacky Mac]

Done!

No one was hurt in the process, thankfully!  It goes, stops, and actually shifts.  What fun.   My reflections are that I know I took about 10 times longer to build this than was necessary, but I enjoyed every minute.  Very little profanity was used, hardly any at all.  The derailer hanger was out about, say, 5-10 degrees out of the box, so that was an easy adjustment with the expensive Park tool that I may never use again.  :-)   I was able to find Shimano instructions for the Nexave online, so that was super helpful.  I still need to dial the shifting in, but it works beautifully in friction mode.  It's a mess in index mode.  I think I have my answer there.  Keep it in friction.  Right.  Getting the FD dialed in was much more finicky than I anticipated.

Where's Kim?  Hey Kim, the Selle Anatomica rocks!  Right out of the box super comfort.   I'm definitely joining the club.  I am going to kick my old B-17 to the curb.  And the big H stamped on the saddle matches with Hillborne!  Bonus.  I am going to hold off on the shellac as the Newbaum feels great naked.  If it gets gnarly over time it's easy enough to rewrap.  I might hit up the twine with some shellac though.  I might also swap out those black DXR brake handles for some expensive Paul's as I am not sure I like the black.  They sure do work well, though.  The Albatross looks huge in this picture, but not so much in reality.  It's a keeper - super comfortable.  Body positioning is very neutral on this upright configuration. Love the platform of the pedals.  I tried to keep the obnoxious blue to a minimum while accenting it.  That's an Air Force blue if anyone was wondering.

Needs a rack or two, undecided on fenders (toe clearance), and a cool matching stowaway bag from Tunitas is on it's way.  Time to re-torque everything and go for a nice long ride.

Last night when I finished it.  Cockpit view.

Fun stuff!

[JohnS]

Looks great Jake! Congrats on your first build, seems like you have a knack for it.

Enjoy,

JohnS

[Eric Marth]

Nice job Jake!

[Eliot Balogh]

Very nice. I’m not familiar with that model rear derailleur. It may have a different pull ratio than the 9 speed road shifters. Assuming that your limit screws are set up properly it may just be an issue with cable tension. It’s probably not a b screw issue if you can shift it smoothly with friction. Is it skipping in some gears ? When it’s happening and you look at it from behind does the chain look closer to one of the neighboring gears ? If it’s rubbing the bigger cog then turn your barrel adjuster clockwise. If it’s rubbing against the smaller cog, turn it counter clockwise. Do this in small increments (1/4 turn) until it stops skipping and looks to be centered in that gear. 

Constructive feedback: your chain looks a hair tight to my eyes but it may be just right for big-big which is discouraged but semi appropriate in a double setup. I wouldnt worry about it but when it needs to be replaced, try going one link longer and seeing if you can get away with that without rubbing the bottom of the derailleur. Also, is your saddle rotated ?

Sorry for the unsolicited advice. Looks great. Glad you are loving it ! Thanks for the Riv Bandana. It’s sweet. 

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[brendonoid]

I love the wrap job on the Handlebars!

[Kim Hetzel]

I am right here Jake.  Come on in and join the Selle Anatomica H1 saddle Club. Kick to the side your Brooks saddle along with mine. We are done !

Very nice coincidence that the big "H" that is stamped on the saddle matches with Hillborne! Wonderful feature !

Nice build on your Silver Streak Sam Hillbourne.

Long may you ride with smiles and joy.

Kim Hetzel

Yelm, WA.

[Slacky Mac]

Thanks all!

Eliot - all advice gladly taken!  After a few more settle-in miles I will put it back on the rack and try some of the suggested adjusting.  The Nexave instructions also assume one is using their shifter, so I have to do a bit of interpreting.    Chain length - it's to Park video specs, but will try a longer version next time. A funny -  I was really struggling holding the two ends close to link them up, some profanity ensued,  I walk away with sweaty, slippery hands, go back, same result, then inspiration caused me to invent the below H. Hillborne Helper.  Upon employing said device, I realize the chain is still on the largest cogs and that I am my own worst enemy.

Ah, experience.  I got some.  :-)   I'll be putting these into production and am accepting orders soon.  I don't have high hopes of retiring on this, of course.

[Scott Luly]

For proper chain length, Shimano instructions state add 2 links with the chain on both the largest sprocket and the largest chainring.

Proper chain length instructions would likely be found in Nexave instructions, as well. At least it is in instructions for my Shimano RD.

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[Eliot Balogh]

Your chain length might be perfect. Your derailleur just looks a little stretched out to me. While some feel that it’s a crime against humanity to run big big. I think in a 2x setup it’s reasonable to do for a short period of time and I don’t imagine it sounds great with that length chain. You are definitely not the first to close the chain in that combo lol! Maybe the most creative ? :)

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[Ryan Bolesta]

Hi Jake,

I’m in a similar position as you with a LimeOlive Sam! I was impatient for a full bike build from Riv and thought this would be a great opportunity to learn by building it myself. I’m just waiting on my wheels to come in later this week and then it’s full steam ahead!

I also considered bar-ends when I saw that the mounts were out of stock, but I was able to find the s2 shifters & thumb mount combos from Blue Lug’s site!

Question for you (or anyone): Are you going to (or is it necessary) to have the bottom bracket threads chased before installing the BB? Seems to be differing opinions on whether it's necessary across other posts on the forum.

Best of luck with your build, excited to see how it turns out!

[Eliot Balogh]

I have never bothered chasing the bottom bracket threads and haven’t had any issues. I think if they’re well greased and you don’t have a lot of resistance, I don’t see a problem. The counter argument is that it’s cheap and easy to do so you might as well do it right. 

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[Mr. Ray]

from the horses mouth...not necessary:

https://www.rivbike.com/pages/chasing-and-facing-the-scoop

[Matti]

On this topic, published Rivendell information seems somewhat contradictory.  This (13 year old!) Rivendell video, still linked from their website, shows the process of chasing the BB with the comment: "We chase and prep all our frames before they head out of here."  I think they have updated their recommendations since then, as Mr. Ray notes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hwjnZfNO1DE

[Joe Bernard]

Nice work, Jake! 

My vague recollection is Nexave used a 7-speed shifter/freewheel, I'd be surprised if the pull-ratio is different for your 9-speed bar-end. My self-taught and definitely wrong way to set the indexing is get the pulleys (in index) directly under a middle cog and start shifting. If it'll move from cog to cog evenly then you're in; after that you can keep fiddling with the cable at the anchor bolt until those clicks all line up so that 4th click is 4th cog, 7th click is 7th cog, etc. etc. Good luck! 

[brendonoid]

BB's chasing and facing my worthless opinion:

Cup and cone BB? Yes! The cup sitting perfectly true is integral to the BB functioning correctly, and the lockring won't lock well against paint.

Sealed bearing unit? Nah, don't worry about it. Anything slightly off is completely compensated for by the BB itself being a closed system merely relying on compression tension from the threads.

[Slacky Mac]

Thanks all for the continued feedback.    I love to learn about mechanical things and building one's own bike is truly gratifying. It'd definitely easier than wrenching on my old Ducati.  I have a few more pics to show a different view to add to the chain length/shifter discussion.

But first, 

Ryan:  My Sam had the BB already chased to my relief as I did not have the tools to do it.  I do not know if that was done at the builder or by Riv.  I do know Riv opened my box as they packed the derailer in it along with a few other parts.   The BB was not faced, and I see no need to do that with modern sealed BBs.  There is only cartridge to BB contact on the right/drive side.  There is so much threading on both ends to square the cartridge that I would much rather have the paint in there to protect the metal than attempt a home-made facing.  I've seen videos of builders taking a box cutter to the paint on the BB and calling it facing.  Terrible idea.    Just make sure you use plenty of (pick your favorite) lube in there.  I generally went with anti-seize for parts that I would not generally move again (like the BB), grease for frequently moved parts, and blue thread locker for fiddly parts that I did not see adjusting anytime soon.  

The Nexave.  I can see why the idea of a Rapid Rise or "Low Normal" never really caught on.   The installers probably hated it.  Keep in mind that the default (slacked cable position) is the low (first) gear, lining the pulleys up with the largest cog on the cassette.  So when installing a new chain, even if you sized it right on the largest cogs and adding two links, you still have a wresting match on your hands when you thread it through the derailer pulleys as the darned thing does not want to move to the smaller cogs (providing slack) unless you grab the derailer and pull on it.   Your chain is not connected at this point, so you can't turn the crank and shift to a higher gear, thus providing the slack.  So, one's slack, if needed, must come from using the smaller front derailer chainring, or a handy dandy homemade tool that I was supposed to know about.  It's a bit of a dance.

Chain length: Here are a few photos with the chain in the most slack/highest gear position.  I feel comfortable with the sizing as it falls within the recommendations and seems to work.  In friction mode, shifting is quick and quiet.  I just need to figure out the indexing, which is only academic as I will likely never use it.  Can't leave a challenge alone.

The derailer below is coiled up pretty tight in this gear selection, any more chain slack and it would likely make contact.  I've seen Nexave derailers with the Mega Range long pulleys on them, but this isn't one of them.  The instructions for mine say it can handle a max 32T, I have a 34T, but it makes the reach.

[Joe Bernard]

Yeah those derailers are a bear to install, or at least the one I messed with was. I don't intend to do it again! 

[Ted Durant]

On Saturday, January 21, 2023 at 6:17:20 PM UTC-6 jak...@me.com wrote:

 Keep in mind that the default (slacked cable position) is the low (first) gear, lining the pulleys up with the largest cog on the cassette.  So when installing a new chain, even if you sized it right on the largest cogs and adding two links, you still have a wresting match on your hands when you thread it through the derailer pulleys as the darned thing does not want to move to the smaller cogs (providing slack) unless you grab the derailer and pull on it.  

I just install the derailer and cable and pull the derailer to the outermost position, then install the chain as I normally do, on the smallest cog and off the inner chainring.  Checking chain length is pretty simple ... check the large/large combo and the small/small combo. If your rear derailer has enough wrap, pick the length where the small/small combo has just enough tension. If your rear derailer is maxed out for wrap (you're pretty close here), you have to compromise, and either make it long enough for the large/large combo to work or short enough for small/small, or in between the two and avoid those gears. The consequences of shifting into the large/large with too short a chain can be pretty severe ... tearing off your rear derailer ... so often it's best to make the chain longer and not use the small/small combos (or ignore the rattling when you do).

Ted Durant

Milwaukee WI USA

[Ted Durant]

Okay, I finally made it out to LA and met my new Sam. Kudos to Simon at the Cub House for his persnickety perfection in building, which involved a trip to the hardware store for just the right brass spacer for the headlight mount.  Two rides on it, one of them on a fire road ascent and sketchy hiking trail descent, both of  them with a lot of climbing and descending, and my opinion (fwiw) is the bike rides better than it looks. And I think it looks pretty good!  On paper and according to my personal cubit, the stem is too short. On the road and trail the position is perfect, and it has me thinking about shortening the stems on a couple of other bikes. 

Ted Durant

Milwaukee, WI USA (though this bike lives in Los Angeles, CA)

[brendonoid]

I am yet to see a lime-olive Sam I don't like. Lovely build!

That light and bag aren't going to play well though, at best the Edelux will become a defacto bag support.

[Ted Durant]

On Mar 8, 2023, at 6:51 PM, brendonoid <bre...@areyoualert.com> wrote:

That light and bag aren't going to play well though, at best the Edelux will become a defacto bag support.

Yup. Going to have to work on that, either modifying the existing bracket or switching to a shorty.

[brendonoid]

The brass bits are nice but if you just bend the original light mount a bit it would fit under the straddle cable and do the job nicely.

[Patrick Moore]

That's very nice; if my first-edition Sam (2010 IIRC) could have taken 50 mm tires (even better, 55 or 60 mm) I might have kept it; but I think that what, 38 or so was the max that the first ones accepted? At any rate, that looks like a fun fire road bike; have fun with it.

I can't read the size on those Gravel Kings; what diameter/width, please?

The Silver crank looks nicer on your bike than it does on the catalogue page.

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Patrick Moore

Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

[Ted Durant]

On Mar 8, 2023, at 7:47 PM, Patrick Moore <bert...@gmail.com> wrote:

I can't read the size on those Gravel Kings; what diameter/width, please?

48-584

[RichS]

Yet another Sam! Looks good Ted. They're popping up a lot here lately. We should call ourselves "Sam's Club" Hope your daughter lets you visit frequently.

Best,

Rich in ATL -riding a "vintage" sage green Sam

[st nick]

Good job Jake.

It turned out very very nice?

Congratulations and welcome to the Sam club!

How do you like riding it?

Ted, your Sam also looks terrific and 

Wow, that bar bar tape is stellar!

Paul in Dallas 

[Ted Durant]

The Cub House does a superb job of building bikes, and they have a talent for photographing them, too.

https://cubhouse.cc/custom-builds/teds-rivendell-hillborne

[Slacky Mac]

Thanks Paul,  I really enjoy the Rivendell Ride. Building it has given me an improved eye for detail, particularly when viewing other builds such as Ted’s here.  Ya know what my bike has it all over Ted’s in terms of function and aesthetic?

Nothing!    I gotta go back to the drawing board.  Goodness!

[Michael Baquerizo]

aware this is not the same color, and it might be even more different in person, those black zip ties ALL over the downtube ruin the paint for me. i think my bike has two (top and bottom) and it does the job well enough.

https://www.cabletiesunlimited.com/4-18lb-florescent-green-cable-ties-100-bag-part-c4-18-flo-green.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwk7ugBhDIARIsAGuvgPYfoQVjxvVTnv3bIjLioXeFdI0OnawXuSxE6U1DAmKjUQHJZpbSxeMaAm_rEALw_wcB

this would at least disappear into the paint a bit more than the thicker black zip ties do.

[Ted Durant]

On Monday, March 13, 2023 at 6:12:32 AM UTC-7 Michael Baquerizo wrote:

aware this is not the same color, and it might be even more different in person, those black zip ties ALL over the downtube ruin the paint for me. i think my bike has two (top and bottom) and it does the job well enough.

They don't bother me that much, and I prefer not to have saggy wiring. I thought Cub House did a good job of lining them up with the decal ends, making them less obtrusive. My plan is to replace zip ties with twine eventually. 

[Eric White]

As a fellow zip-tie dynamo light routing enthusiast, I can say I didn't even notice them while gazing at the bike. The cable routing? Elegant and graceful. The front bag? A nice blend of modern and classic. The zip ties? What zip ties?

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[Keith P.]

V.1 of my new Sam Build. 

There are many like it, but this one is mine.

Thought you guys might get a kick out of some photos:

  

  

 

Taking these, I finished off a roll that I thought was color, but wasn't, so here are few B&Ws cuz they exist:

 

  

This bike is an absolute hoot! 

I've been loving it.

Thanks to so many in the owners bunch for all the inspiration and information.

Any Los Angeles Riv-Riders out there want to go for a spin?

k.

[Eric Marth]

This looks great, Keith! I love the subtle colors, the silver frame, the tans and browns. Timeless and clean. I wish the pics were bigger! 

Are those Billie bars? Been missing mine lately (still got em, just not installed). 

[Keith P.]

Thanks Eric! 

Subtle, timeless and clean were all adjectives I was going for. 

I call it "The Country Priest" after these rough riders:

Yes, the bars are Billies. They are very fun. Very springy. 

I wish the photos were bigger too. Google Groups was giving me the "Your post is too long" error until I shrunk them down in size considerably.

I certainly didn't need to post so many, but I had them. 

[Ted Durant]

And it begins again. I said I was thinking about building 1 olive and 1 silver, so I could have 1 of each at my daughters' homes in LA and Maine. That 51cm silver frame that was listed a few days ago is now hanging on the wall, waiting for parts. I feel a little bad "hoarding" Sams, but it's the PERFECT bike for riding in both places, so...

I think the aesthetics will be more low key than my lime olive one.

Ted Durant

[Keith Paugh]

Excited to see how your Maine Silver turns out.

Send an email when next in Los Angeles. 

We’ll go ride!

k.

On Apr 14, 2023, at 12:56 PM, Ted Durant <tedd...@gmail.com> wrote:

And it begins again. I said I was thinking about building 1 olive and 1 silver, so I could have 1 of each at my daughters' homes in LA and Maine. That 51cm silver frame that was listed a few days ago is now hanging on the wall, waiting for parts. I feel a little bad "hoarding" Sams, but it's the PERFECT bike for riding in both places, so...

<IMG_1188.jpeg>

I think the aesthetics will be more low key than my lime olive one.

Ted Durant

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<IMG_1188.jpeg>

[Peter Adler]

Busch & Muller make a fork crown mount specifically for cantis; it's made of the same stainless rod. Instead of going upwards like the standard B&M mount you have now, it drops down about 1 cm below the brake hole to dip under the straddle; not great for fenders, but an LA bike can probably live fenderless most years. It'll drop the light down maybe 3-4 cm from it's current position.

I got one a while back from Peter White Cycles, when I was getting my Luxos U replaced under warranty and got some extra stuff to capitalize on the shipping:

B&M475DUPB   Busch & Müller Cyo cantilever mount   $10.00

https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/b&m-hl.php

I think a better bet is to move the mount out in front of the bag, if at all possible, or at least out of the plane of the obstructing bag. My normal preference would be to mount it at the front of the rack, as I usually have a supporting rack for a handlebar bag; but the Nitto F18 rack/Ostrich bag setup you're using doesn't lend itself to such attachments. Perhaps a better option is to mount one of those handlebar-substitute posts to the midfork braze-on, and mount the light there; it gets the light patch further out into the roadway (if you attach it to the left fork blade) or further onto the shoulder (if you attach it to the right fork blade). depending on where you ride; it gets the light low enough that you won't be blasting oncoming traffic in their eyes, and it gets it far enough away from the wheel that you shouldn't have a big shadow in the light patch. The Paul Gino is the mount I originally knew (and you can get it anodized in a green that's pretty close to your paint), but I bought a Nitto M12 at a swap on which the seller had included an equivalent Nitto mount that did the same thing. I can't locate that mount for sale right now, so it may have been discontinued, but you might turn one up from the usual old-stuff-for-sale sources. Here's another Nitto mount in the same design; this one replaces the nut on a quick release skewer.

I take it the Selle An-Atomica is a fairly recent purchase? I was really disappointed about six years ago when they replaced the Honey color with the more mottled honey+brown Tool color. In my last SA-A end-of-year sale buying binge (Xmas 2021), I gritted my teeth and got a Tool H2 because it's what they had. I'm glad to see that the Tool color has gotten more honey-ish; maybe if I send my stretched-out 2013 honey X1 back for a new top, I'll get something that's approximately the same color, assuming they're willing to make a top in the older, longer form.

Peter "it's hard to keep all the SA-A variants straight sometimes" Adler

Berkeley, CA/USA

[Ted Durant]

On Saturday, April 15, 2023 at 5:03:27 PM UTC-4 divis...@gmail.com wrote:

Busch & Muller make a fork crown mount specifically for cantis;

Thanks, I've considered that. Peter White's site is invaluable for browsing the art of the possible with lights and mounts. I like the brass extension, though, because I like moving the light forward to reduce tire shadow. The standard short mount will be fine for this.

On other bikes I've mounted a Paul Gino to a right-angle piece bolted to the front end of the Nitto F-15 rack.

[Ryan]

That's a smashing looking build and I love the black and white photos. Also nice homage to those two priests riding their bikes.If you were going for classic and timeless, I'd say you nailed it.