According to VO, your fender came witha hardware kit that includes: 5mm polished aluminum stays, R-clips and screws, L bracket, reinforcement plates, stay-to-fender closed eyelet bolts, fork crown daruma, sliding bracket, leather washers, and detailed installation instructions.
I believe the part you're looking for is the "sliding bracket."
You don't want to leave it wiggly. That will fatigue and break the fender.
I'm kind of surprised your mechanic couldn't figure a way to
mount that fender. Even an L shaped bracket bolted to the fender
with the other end bolted to the brake bridge would do it.
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-- Steve Palincsar Alexandria, Virginia USA
It is beyond belief that a bike shop would not
have the requisite bolt. And I'm with Joe: this is beyond
slip-shod. I'm sure the included instructions mentioned that
bracket and how to install it.
So, do I need a bolt, too? Where do I get THAT? I don’t think the mechanic gave me back the extra parts. I’m off the garage to dig around and see! Sent from my iPadOn Mar 13, 2020, at 7:23 PM, Joe Bernard <joer...@gmail.com> wrote: Here's the unbent doohickey your installer should have bent and crimped onto your fender, then bolted to the brake bridge. Was it not in the package? Did he toss it and tell you "it'll be fine, lady" ? I have questions and I'm annoyed, that's not how you install fenders when someone hands you money and says, "Hey, can you install my fenders?" 🤨 https://velo-orange.com/products/vo-sliding-fender-bracket-wide Joe "annoyed in California" Bernard
-- Steve Palincsar Alexandria, Virginia USA
On Mar 13, 2020, at 7:34 PM, Steve Palincsar <pali...@his.com> wrote:
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On Mar 14, 2020, at 12:32 PM, Saturday Mark <saturda...@gmail.com> wrote:
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It is beyond belief that a bike shop would not have the requisite bolt.
Steve Palincsar Alexandria, Virginia USA
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Wiggly fender comes in contact with wheel, gets sucked into the space between the tire and the fork, wheel locks because it's jammed and Bye Bye Love...
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-- Steve Palincsar Alexandria, Virginia USA
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Can a rear wheel lock up be problematic?
Let me tell you a little story. A few years ago, a colleague at work wrapped a cast-off sweater around her seat post and rear rack. As she was riding along, an arm of the sweater came loose. It got wrapped up in the back wheel, which locked. Her bike skidded, she crashed, and spent most of the next year out of work having and recovering from multiple surgeries.
Is it likely? Probably not. As someone mentioned, you can control rear skids. On the other hand, many people lose control if their rear wheel skids -- it's how most crashes on the local bike trail happen, rear wheel skids on slippery boardwalk or bridge, and most people simply lose control and crash.
Something similar happened with a rear mud
flap to one of Jan Heine's riding companions on Paris Brest
Paris last year. He managed to avoid a crash.
In any event, it's not something you want to
happen.
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-- Steve Palincsar Alexandria, Virginia USA
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Steve, we should start such a thread - real crashes and what caused them. I’d read every last entry.
OK, I'll start with a few.
2008, riding around the traffic circle at Mount Vernon. Here's a Street View image of what that pavement looks like:
My front tire got caught in the crack between two lanes of
concrete paving. I lost control of the steering and went down.
It gave me a "Gamekeeper's Thumb / Skier's Thumb" injury and broke
my thumb.
Every year there are several similar crashes on the Colonial
Parkway between Williamsburg, Jamestown and Yorktown, which is
also concrete lanes with large cracks between the lanes. Once
your tire goes into the crack you're toast. You're going down,
and nothing on earth can save you.
A very similar situation happens with angled railroad track
crossings. Your tire slips sideways and gets caught in the groove
in the rail, and down you go.
I call this spot "Mikey's Crossing" because that's where he crashed. There are only two ways to safely cross something like this: 1) on foot; or 2) at nearly right angles. I'm not sure what the actual critical angle is, it varies depending on wet or dry, wet being worse, but this is very close to the critical angle. 1 degree either way can make the difference between getting over it safely or going down.
In 2002 I attended TOSRV. Just outside Portsmoth OH, the end of
the day's century ride (next day was a reversal of the route,
going back the other way) a sharply angled RR crossing. As I was
going over, three people crashed on the tracks. Next morning,
they had an ambulance stationed at that spot and one of those big
lighted signs the Volunteer Firemen use to advertise the Bingo and
the Fish Fry right by the crossing warning of the angled tracks.
As I was going by, the EMTs were working on someone who had
crashed only a couple of minutes before, breaking his wrist.
And then there are pavement irregularities. You may find this ride report of interest: https://ohbike.memberlodge.org/reports/4204093 Aug 2016, Lancaster PA. The road looked like this:
We saw they'd done milling and patching on the shoulder, but it
wasn't clear that the depth varied so that in some places the
shoulder was below the level of the roadway. You really couldn't
see that as you were riding.
A rider discovered he tried to shift left to avoid the drain that
there was a ledge about an inch high. He had only been riding for
a few months and (even though he's an aeronautical engineer) had
never considered the situation at all, until he suddenly found
himself on the ground wondering what happened. Unless you cross a
ledge like this at nearly a right angle, your tire will slip
sideways and down you go.
In fact, as we were assessing his condition on the ground a
pickup truck driving in our direction stopped and we found another
cyclist from our group in the truck: she'd had the identical crash
on a section about a mile behind us, and the truck driver had
rescued her.
I could go on - gravel in the turn, for example, but I think this
is enough to begin with.
Steve - I shuddered. I examined your photos before your explanations and I could see the potential danger in them and it made me wonder how I knew. It’s from being a kid and crashing, I’m certain of it. Kids learn this stuff the hard way and apparently, we remember as adults! I knew exactly what do do about the railroad photos; hit them at a right angle - but if moving at speed I wonder if I’d have dared try to zip over them...
And the insidious thing about Mikey's Crossing is that the tracks are just barely crossable straight ahead if conditions are just right. Move the bars just a degree or two in the wrong direction and CRASH; let the tracks be even a little wet, and CRASH. They're just about at the critical angle.
###
Slippery Pavement
Black ice. Lighted here so you can see it, but all too often
you'll encounter it in the morning when the sun is up and you
won't see it at all. There you are, walking, riding or driving
along thinking everything is just fine and suddenly, no traction
at all and WHOOPS there you go.
Gravel or sand in a turn will do the same thing: there you are, leaned over, carving the turn and suddenly instead of locking into the pavement, your tires are on little ball bearings that just roll away sideways and down you go.
Joe - well, I’m sorry but I laughed at you. Diving off your folder bike into the bushes and “nothing to see here” 🤣 I’m going to start a new thread because these are really good things for cyclers to ponder and we can’t have them lost in my Wiggly Fender Thread. If it’s not too troublesome, repost your stories there!
Perhaps you didn't notice, I did start a new thread for this:
this very one!
Well, depending on how the bracket comes, it
may be necessary to bend the prongs down so they fit under the
fender edge (some of them come flattened out like an animal
skin) and even if it's already curved you may have to crimp the
edges of the bracket down with a pair of pliers to keep the
bracket from sliding around. But basically you're right,
definitely part of the way there now.
You're halfway there now. All you gotta do is slide that bracket on your fender and put it back on! 👍
On Mar 19, 2020, at 11:13 AM, 'Hetchins52' via RBW Owners Bunch <rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
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On Mar 19, 2020, at 11:53 AM, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! <jonasa...@gmail.com> wrote:
Ok, chickening out here. I don’t want this bent in some wonky way. Just call me ‘Ol One Fender for the foreseeable future. As in, “Did you see “Ol One Fender pedaling around that giant blue Clem again? Ridiculous. Looks like the bike is rolling around this neighborhood wearing no pants.”
Wish me luck. I might have to (when it’s safe again) to go to a place called Pro Cyclery. Does that sound like a place that is going to be happy to see me? No.
Think your good thoughts.
Leah
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It's flat, and to work it needs to wrap over and around a curved fender.
The orientation is obvious: the tab with the hole has to line up with the hole in the bridge.
So how would you do that?
Afraid to mess with the metal? Trace it and cut yourself out one of stiff paper. Now make believe it's paper dolls. Put it on the fender and what would you have to do for it to wrap over the fender and stay there?
Now do it with the metal.
On Mar 19, 2020, at 12:42 PM, Steve Palincsar <pali...@his.com> wrote:
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Is your hair drier powerful enough to get the metal red hot?
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Those fender brackets aren't horse shoes.
They don't need to be heated red hot and pounded on an anvil to
bend. I'm pretty sure if an anvil had to be involved, VO's
instructions would make mention of it. ;-)
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She's got the part already. She showed it in
the video. It's the one that goes with the fender in question,
obtained from Velo Orange.
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....
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I knew you had it in you, COVID or not!!
Andy Cheatham
Pittsburgh
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Huzzay! Terrific job. Merle sang this for
you: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ezlaua2o-WU
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-- Steve Palincsar Alexandria, Virginia USA
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