Recommend a film camera

[Drw]

I think this is on topic. I’ve been semi inspired by all the camera content, but moreso, after having a kid, I’m becoming more interested In having hard copy documentation of things (I have a printer. I never print anything), for him to have when he gets older.

I know my way around the operation of cameras, not expertly, but I’ve taken some classes etc. what I have no idea about is what brands, models, years are good.

Is there something between a full manual and a full automatic? I think I’d probably not end up using a manual slr at this point in my life. A point and shoot may be better, but something in between would be cool if it exists.

So what do people like for good quality, durable, quick/easy to use cameras?

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

You can consider an aperture-priority film camera. Perhaps something lightweight like a Nikon FE2, so you can leverage a plethora of good F-mount lenses and accessories. A FE2 with a 45mm f/2.8 “pancake” lens will be light and compact, and easy to carry around when biking. A little more esoteric are the OM-2 or OM-4 from Olympus, but lens selection and availability will be curtailed. These are all SLRs so they’ll be more fun and versatile than P&S cameras.

I’m sure there are other brands (e.g., Canon, Yashica, Pentax, etc), but I’m only familiar with these.

[David Bivins]

Between a full manual and full automatic is stuff like autofocus and aperture-priority. You could get a Minolta setup with aperture priority pretty cheap - XD11 or X570, plus whatever lenses you were interested in. They're built like tanks and have a world of lenses available to them. I think the Minolta gear is exceptionally good and undervalued. I've been shooting Minolta since I was 16 and still do to this day. I also shoot Leica, Crown Graphic, Canon, etc. but the Minolta stuff is still around.

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[John W]

Almost all autofocus SLR camera / lens systems will allow you to focus manually.

If you want the manual feel, but with good auto exposure capabilities, search for a used Nikon FM3A. It was the last of its type ever made by Nikon and as such you’re still able to find ones in mint / NOS condition. It’s also one of my personal favorites.

If your budget is lower, search for a used Nikon F3HP, arguably the best pro camera ever made. It is still the benchmark for viewfinder quality if you wear eyeglasses.

[Eric Norris]

Best film camera I have found for taking photos while riding (and I’ve tried many) is the Olympus XA or XA-2 or -4. The XA-4 is rare and more expensive, but you find an XA or XA-2 fairly cheap on eBay. Both take great photos. The XA-2 is more automatic and, for me, a better choice for taking quick shots. The XA offers more precise focusing and exposure control, but that adds a little more complexity to there shooting process.

All the CA cameras have a very nice Zuiko lens and are pretty bulletproof. Clamshell design protects the lens when you’re not using it, so I can toss it in my handlebar bag without worrying about it.

John Bennett has used both. Perhaps he can chime in with his thoughts?

–Eric N


> On Aug 16, 2019, at 6:14 AM, Drw <drewbe...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I think this is on topic. I’ve been semi inspired by all the camera content, but moreso, after having a kid, I’m becoming more interested In having hard copy documentation of things (I have a printer. I never print anything), for him to have when he gets older.

>
> I know my way around the operation of cameras, not expertly, but I’ve taken some classes etc. what I have no idea about is what brands, models, years are good.
>
> Is there something between a full manual and a full automatic? I think I’d probably not end up using a manual slr at this point in my life. A point and shoot may be better, but something in between would be cool if it exists.
>
> So what do people like for good quality, durable, quick/easy to use cameras?
>

[John Woo]

Agreed. Those XA cameras were the best. I owned two and they each died when the shutter button stopped working. I think this was a common problem. Still, if I ever got back into pocket 35mm photography I’d look for a good one.

The Olympus Stylus Epic was a sort of spiritual follow up to that camera. It was written up in a things-we-like column in a Riv newsletter, IIRC. Can be found pretty cheap used. This is a compact camera without much manual control, and they won’t work without batteries.

Look also for a Contax T2 or T3. The T3 will fit in a bike jersey.

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[ascpgh]

I have a Rollei compact 35mm full manual that has a matching needle light meter on the top of the case. When you load film, set the ASA on the dial on top. Pick aperture or shutter speed as your priority, it sets that needle in the light meter and you adjust the other until the two align and you’re set. It’s a manual focus with fixed viewfinder, so you guess a bit up close but beyond 20’ it’s infinity.

Been a solid tool for me since the ‘70s. Easy to tote, ready for use and set for my compositions.

Andy Cheatham
Pittsburgh

[Teague Scott]

You're going down a mini-wormhole here! There are plenty of opinions out there... There are Olympus people, Canon people, Minolta people, Petri people, Hasselblad people, etc. Depending on year, all of these companies made cameras that excelled in ways and potentially fell short in others. 

You just need to figure out what you want in a camera. Don't shy away from a fully manual setup - there's always the "sunny 16" rule. I came across a Minolta kit for sale locally that included two bodies (SRT-102 and x700) and 4 lenses. I thought this would give me an awesome opportunity to get into the nitty-gritty of fully manual shooting with the SRT while still being able to fall back on aperture priority (and even fully-auto) with the x700 if I so desire. Both Minolta bodies, so I can move lenses around as I please.

A word of warning: avoid ebay. I had an unpleasant experience dealing with another body that arrived busted. Who knows who's to blame, but it appeared to have been dropped by USPS handler. The prism was messed up AND the light meter didn't work (seller claimed it did). You'll see TONS of 35mm SLRs/rangefinders on there, many with a description mentioning that the body/lens/whatever is untested. Forget it. No matter how cheap. I recommend buying off-market, locally. Check out the camera and run through all shutter speeds, wind up the film advance, fire the shutter, check light seals. You're far more likely to deal with someone that actually knows the camera vs. some yard sale scrounger.

Have fun!

- Teague

[Teague Scott]

Oh yeah, and check out some Forest Hill Film Lab videos: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbDG7XYhdWuSrRvhMcFxSeQ

Grant has mentioned him in a Blahg post or two. He does some vintage camera reviews that are pretty cool. He also has good videos on shooting basics.

Also, reviews for daaaays: https://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/reviews.htm

[Drw]

Wormhole indeed. Thanks for all the suggestions. Fun looking at all this pretty stuff. I guess I should’ve specified a budget, which is in the <200$ range.

[Peter White]

My favorite film camera to carry on the bike or cross country skiing was the Rollei 35S. The Zeiss Sonnar lens is terrific. The camera weighs next to nothing, and takes up very little space.

Peter White

On Fri, Aug 16, 2019 at 11:54 AM Drw <drewbe...@gmail.com> wrote:

Wormhole indeed. Thanks for all the suggestions. Fun looking at all this pretty stuff. I guess I should’ve specified a budget, which is in the <200$ range.

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Peter White

[Ryan M.]

I shoot a lot of film using a few Rolleiflex cameras and a slew of Pentax 35mm stuff. I personally think the MeSuper and the Super Program or even just the Program cameras with a fixed focal length lens of your choosing make a really great, small setup for automatic exposure/manual focus stuff. One of my favorite combos for taking with me on a ride is the SMC- M 40mm f2.8 pancake lens on a MeSuper camera or use a combo of a 28mm and a 50mm f1.4.

I used to carry an Olympus Stylus Epic that had a 35mm f2.8 lens. It was totally automatic but worked really well. I noticed the prices of them went super high because apparently they were in demand so I sold it on ebay. I couldn't believe what I got for it.  For something super simple, something like that could be found.

[Kainalu V. -Brooklyn NY]

Nothing's realer than pinhole photography. Not so good for on the bike snapshots, but if you've got some time to kill and an f64 sewing needle...
-Kai

[John A. Bennett]

THE best camera is the Olympus OM-1n. 

The "n" is the upgraded version of the original OM-1. Well worth seeking out. 

Great lenses available. Start with a 50mm (the one most people paired it with). Then branch out to a wide (28mm) and save up for an 85mm (perfect for portraits). 

The camera is affordable, light, sharp, intuitive, carry-able, and super reliable. I don't know anyone who has one that has ever had one bad thing to say about them!

#pedalbikesshootfilm

John at Rivelo in Portland, Ore. 

https://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/olympusom1n2/om1/

[Coal Bee Rye Anne]

Interestingly, I found myself wondering the same thing and for similar reasons.  Upon further consideration I kind of found myself swinging back to the manual side of the equation and ended up recently selling some camera equipment I already had, possibly something I'll come to regret eventually, but I decided to approach it with a minimalist view and start from the beginning with just the basics. 

There was certainly a sentimental aspect to my decision making here as well, but I ultimately decided to sell my Minolta X-700 with 50mm lens and a Leica/Leitz/Wetzlar 40mm lens I've been sitting on to a local camera shop and restrict myself to a fully manual Yashica "J" model rangefinder that belonged to my father, a hand me down Polaroid Spectra AF, and as a bonus some cheap plastic fixed lens Meikai branded film rangefinder a friend's father once gave me that I never even opened... still in plastic wrapping... until my 2 year old son just recently got his hands on it when he woke from his nap to find me going through a box of my camera stuff and insisted we open it! haha.   The friend's father was a flea market/yard sale/garage sale hunter and often gifting random little things which were always appreciated but often ended up sitting in the closet or back of a drawer somewhere.  It was definitely worth keeping this one around all these years just to see my son's excitement with what is now his first film camera at only 2 years old.  I had a few old rolls of Kodak color film as, loaded one up and spent the day shooting away.  Should be interesting to see how his first roll turns out (I admittedly took most shots as he was generally just holding it up and verbally going "CLICK!" and not letting me advance the film again anytime he actually snapped an exposure but was having a blast anyway.  I have low expectations between my own recent lack of film experience and the toy camera construction (and not even sure the film advance was fully engaging at times) so not sure we'll put much more film through this particular one.  Anyway, it was a fun day, and a much needed one, and hopefully we get a decent pic or two between his roll and the one I'm now halfway through on the Yashica as a little memento.  Otherwise I plan to run through the remaining few rolls of old expired color film and get more familiar with the old Yashica and see where to go from there. 

But back to camera selections.  I had a few important realizations to really drive that particular decision:

1: I needed some cash and had been looking for unused items to unload/downsize before a recent move- the Minolta X-700 and that Leica lens were the only two worth anything to the local camera shop.

2: I was unlikely to commit enough time in the short term to make the most of the X-700 SLR and all it's features, nor would I have the funds in the near furture to expand on either platform.  For the Leica lens.  a 40mm Summicron C - originally from a Leica/Minolta CE -  I've had a lens with no body for years and no justification or budget to invest in a Leica body - I'd considered selling everything except the Leica lens and saving for a body to pair it with, maybe even a new Voigtlander Bessa (forget which model but one has 40mm framelines) but ultimately decided I'd rather play around with something immediate and selling the less desireable stuff hardly seemed worth the effort.  And just as Teague noted above - I wanted to avoid buying/selling on ebay for the exact same concerns.)

3. With a lack of confidence in my camera skills after many years of dormancy and generally mediocre results even when I was more active with film I'm interested in the challenge in making the most of the Yashica's limited features.  Plus no other immediate expenses or concerns such as a need for fresh batteries, etc.  I guess I'd try to compare it in a way to how I rediscovered something new from something old in cycling kind of like I did by trying friction downtube shifters for the first time when I scored a free roadbike nearly 10 years ago or exploring fixed gear riding a few years back.  I'm hoping to learn from and be surprised by whatever I get from these next few rolls of film run through the old camera with little to no expectations.

4. I had to keep the Polaroid just for fun and will eventually order some Polaroid Originals film packs.  We acquired this at some point prior to getting married and I loaded up on some boxes of the Impossible film that was available at the time and everyone seemed to have fun with it at our reception, although almost all outdoor shots got overexposed with everyone leaving them face up while they developed : (

Best of luck on your search and re-entry into film and I'll be curious to see what you decide on in the end.  Keep us posted.

I could probably go on for days about a bunch of thoughts regarding our digital age and how/why I kind of burned myself out on photography altogether, got sick of trying to figure out the multitude of features of our digital camera and decided I'd prefer to just spend my time living in the moment rather than constantly trying to capture moments, etc. but I am now coming to regret the fact that what little documentation I do have of our son's first two years is mostly just in digital format on my iPhone.  I now find myself wanting to find greater balance with all this stuff and find a way to capture some milestones while somehow experiencing more pleasure in photographing his childhood in general... while eliminating all the urgency/pressure/immediacy and distractedness of the digital/social media age, if that makes any sense?

Sorry, none of this answers any of your direct questions nor provides any actual recommendations.  I clearly needed a little distraction from a hectic work day but where I still can't fully escape the screen.  Guess you could say my recommendation is to consider what's more valuable to you:  Investment in better quality stuff up front but that might come with a higher premium?  Or start small/within a budget but with the possibility of being disappointed or quickly wishing to upgrade at even greater expense later on?  This is exactly one of my own concerns but I've ultimately decided to put more value for myself on the experience of re-learning to shoot with a very basic and limited feature camera I already own in the hopes that it sparks more joy/curiosity for the process.  I've realized the more advanced x700 was just 'more camera' than I needed right now and heftier/bulkier than I'd want to be lugging around (after having done so for a few years back when I bought it used to replace a broken Pentax.)  I've essentially chosen to limit myself to one film camera and try to learn all there is to learn from it and see where it goes from there.

Brian Cole

Lawrenceville, NJ

[Daniel D.]

Now you got me shopping for an OM-1N.  Since I was a teen I've wanted a nikon Fm2.   Year or two ago I bought 6 rolls of kodak b/w film that's been sitting in my fridge because of this forum :p.  Cost to develop and print gave me pause.

On Thursday, August 15, 2019 at 9:14:14 PM UTC-7, Drw wrote:

[Drw]

Speaking of development. Does everyone go online now? If so, who do people like?

Also, just to update, I picked up an Olympus xa2, because I could wrap my head around that and it’s price most immediately. It was on eBay but it’s got a good return policy and good seller feedback.

I’m interested in the more advanced stuff too, but I need to spend some more time weighing each one against the other.

This is a great document of what people like, so I hope others keep weighing in.

[David Bivins]

Oh! All this has jogged my memory (and camera collection): you should definitely consider adding to your now growing collection (n+1, just like bikes) of cameras the Yashica Electro 35. There are various models, but you should look for the GSN or GTN (one is chrome, the other black). They are old. They have problems. But if you get one in good condition, you'll get great use out of it. It is exclusively an aperture priority camera. It has over/under metering, meaning it tells you if you're over or under and you adjust the aperture, and then it comes up with the exact shutter speed (not just stepped like the typical 1/125, 1/250, 1/500 etc.) using an electromagnetic shutter. They take photos to die for. The lens is amazing. You do have to focus, but it's an exceptionally easy rangefinder to use. If you look it up, you will find multiple references to it being a "poor person's Leica." 

The Olympus XA, etc. clamshell cameras are great. Take a couple of rolls and see what you think. Some cameras that people love I find that I take awful pictures with.

I develop at home, in my bathroom and kitchen. A rank beginner can get great results with a simple Paterson daylight tank and Diafine developer. Or if you can do simple math and use a thermometer, you could use any other b/w developer. Cinestill now makes a developer that is all the chemicals in one (a "monobath"), but I haven't tried it yet. I then scan my negatives. I use a Nikon Coolscan 9000 (expensive and discontinued) but there are other options.

You might also have a local community darkroom. As film photography's popularity has waxed again over the past decade, more have popped up. I usually get my color film developed by a small family-run photo shop that seems to be doing bang-up business with the youngsters shooting film. I used to be the only one in there but now I have to wait in line, which is pretty great, really!

I'm in Brooklyn, NY, so I have places I can bike my film to for development if necessary, but I love doing it myself.  It's like working on your own bike - same satisfaction, and the same learning-by-failure.

Take care,

David

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[Philip Williamson]

I’m in a camera shop right now. They have an XA-3 for $135.
Nikon EM body for $12 (twelve) dollars.

Philip
Santa Rosa, CA

[tc]

Another way to approach this is to think about the lenses you might need, and the ratings of said lenses ... then figure out the camera body that allows you to do what you want with those lenses.  Kinda like the old days when you bought record *albums*, and (should have) paid more attention to the stylus and cartridge than the turntable, then the speakers, then the amp's s/n ratio.  Doesn't matter if you have the greatest, strongest camera body in the world and the "best" film; that lens will determine the clarity, bokeh, etc. of the image you get, all things being equal.

My father and grandfather were professional photographers.  They're both deceased, but luckily I still have Dad's Hasselblad 500c (so primative ... Zeiss lenses ... so, so good), and one of his old Kodak Speed Graphic 4x5 cameras with some of the Kodak lenses, also great.  He also used a Mamiya Rollback medium format on some jobs, also with excellent lenses.  He also had a Pentax ME Super to goof around with on vacations; and while a great camera, it was so compact, it didn't fit either of our large-ish hands, and therefore wasn't used much by him or me (so, hold that body in your hands before you buy!).

Back when I last shot film/transparencies, I gravitated towards Canon L lenses, mated to an EOS-3 body.  The Canon L line lenses have some awesome optics; that's what drew me in, then I selected the body that would allow me to shoot manually (Ansel Adam's zone system .. look it up .. great way to learn exposure for B&W first), and then also advance into aperture priority, shutter priority, custom depth of field between 2 points, etc. w/out breaking the bank.

Though I eventually bought a DSLR, I had way more fun on that E0S-3, having carried it on vacations in the US and abroad, trusting it completely.  I actually had 2 EOS-3s, one loaded with color, one with B&W, but sold one about 10 years ago.  I still treat those lenses as if they're rare diamonds, and they continue to treat me well back :)

Have fun!

Tom 

On Friday, August 16, 2019 at 12:14:14 AM UTC-4, Drw wrote:

[S]

Back when I was into film photography, I liked my Canon G-III QL17 rangefinder. Sort of a budget Leica. Good optics, full manual and shutter priority modes, easy to load, nice ghost-image focus system, the meter works with filters, sturdy. Made for discontinued PX625 mercury batteries, but you can substitute modern MRB625 zinc-air batteries. A fun camera.

On Thursday, August 15, 2019 at 9:14:14 PM UTC-7, Drw wrote:

[Eric Norris]

Don’t get the XA-3. It’s fixed focus and the least desirable of the XA series. $135 is way overpriced for that model.

–Eric N


> On Aug 18, 2019, at 1:37 AM, Philip Williamson <philip.w...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I’m in a camera shop right now. They have an XA-3 for $135.

> Nikon EM body for $12 (twelve) dollars.
>
> Philip
> Santa Rosa, CA
>

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[Paul Richardson]

I've had fun, and gotten great mileage, out of two thrift store finds:  a Canon AE-1 and an Olympus Stylus Epic.  I usually mount a 35mm/f2.8 prime lens on the Canon.  I keep the Olympus on a table by the front door--it fits anywhere and there's never an excuse to leave the house without it.

paul

takoma park, md.

[S]

The best camera is the one you have with you, so buying a pocket-sized point-and-shoot like the Olympus is a great idea. Another good pocket camera is the Kyocera/Yashica T Proof/T4. Zeiss lens, weather resistant. Overpriced on ebay but worth keeping an eye out for at garage sales, etc.

[David Bivins]

Good call on the Yashica T4. I didn't recommend it because it is so expensive, but I actually got one at a street market in Germany for a very good price (about $150 if I recall correctly). In Europe it was called the T5. 

Others to grab if you see them and they work are the Ricoh R1 series and Ricoh GR series. Only if they're inexpensive, because they're going to die at some point. But holy cow if they aren't lovely photo takers in the hands of someone with a good eye. 

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[tom coppedge]

Another vote for the Yashica T4, if you're looking for a film point-n-shoot.  I got a T4 Super eons ago, and it's def the best point-n-shoot film camera I've had.  Sweet Zeiss glass.  When not in use, the lens retracts, and a handy auto lens cover slides over to protect it...making the front face of the camera flat, which helps with storage and pocket-ability.

Tom

[Chris Balaschak]

Following. I'm in the market for a 120-film camera. Considering just a Holga (cheap, lightweight, packable). 

[EasyRider]

I've been using OMs and Electro 35s for a long time and both are fine cameras.

What really sets the OM-1 apart is that is it noticeably more compact than similar vintage Nikons, but still has a large viewfinder that is just plain nice to look through. It's way better than most DSLRs, and more pleasant to use than film point and shoot viewfinders. It makes me want to use the camera and the small size makes it practical to do so. The Electro is pretty hefty, has a nice (fixed) lens, and for me, the viewfinder isn't as pleasant to use. But a nice to hold camera nonetheless.

Pete

Arlington, VA

[David Bivins]

If you're OK with interesting but never stellar results, a Holga, or a Diana, is a lot of fun. But you'll never take a "straight" high-quality photo with it. The limitations are what make the plastic cameras fun, of course. 

You might look into the many, many Fuji/Fujica/Fujifilm medium format cameras that were produced. Some are still expensive (their most recent, the GF670 comes to mind), some are very heavy (the Fujica GL690), but some are quite manageable and can be found inexpensively once in a while. I have a Fuji GS645S that's lighter than most with a fixed 60mm lens, a little wider than a 35mm lens would be on a 35mm body. Some of them have a "roll bar" which seems appropriate for when you're biking :)

Also make sure that everyone you meet knows that you're into cameras. You will be given many, and once in a while, one of them might actually work or be useful for your needs.

Take care,

David

[John at Rivelo]

I took these shots with my old (35mm version) Holga and Ilford Delta 400 film:

https://www.instagram.com/p/B03WRv9FCAf/

John at Rivelo in Portland

[Steve Palincsar]

On 8/19/19 6:17 PM, David Bivins wrote:

If you're OK with interesting but never stellar results, a Holga, or a Diana, is a lot of fun. But you'll never take a "straight" high-quality photo with it. The limitations are what make the plastic cameras fun, of course. 

You might look into the many, many Fuji/Fujica/Fujifilm medium format cameras that were produced. Some are still expensive (their most recent, the GF670 comes to mind), some are very heavy

Pretty much, medium format cameras are heavy.   If you're the sort of cyclist who counts pounds (never mind those measly "gram" things) medium format cameras are as outlandish a choice as view cameras.  And honestly, aside from the joys of look-down Rollei viewfinders, the whole point of medium format is superior image quality.  If you're giving that up, might just as well go with 35mm and save the weight and space. 

Or, for that matter, you might consider forgetting the whole film thing and going digital instead.  It's really a better fit for cycling anyway.  Even a cheap, crappy obsolete digital can give you some pretty nice results.

This was taken on a 9 year old Lumix FH-22 my daughter lent me that she got in a $5 box of a dozen old obsolete digitals down at the thrift store.  It is 100 x 57 x 27 mm (3.94 x 2.22 x 1.06″) and weighs 170g.

(the Fujica GL690), but some are quite manageable and can be found inexpensively once in a while. I have a Fuji GS645S that's lighter than most with a fixed 60mm lens, a little wider than a 35mm lens would be on a 35mm body. Some of them have a "roll bar" which seems appropriate for when you're biking :)

Also make sure that everyone you meet knows that you're into cameras. You will be given many, and once in a while, one of them might actually work or be useful for your needs.

Take care,

David

On Mon, Aug 19, 2019 at 4:33 PM Chris Balaschak <cbala...@gmail.com> wrote:

Following. I'm in the market for a 120-film camera. Considering just a Holga (cheap, lightweight, packable). 

-- 
Steve Palincsar
Alexandria, Virginia 
USA

[Chris Balaschak]

On Monday, August 19, 2019 at 7:08:03 PM UTC-4, Steve Palincsar wrote:

On 8/19/19 6:17 PM, David Bivins wrote:

... some are very heavy

Pretty much, medium format cameras are heavy...   

CL Swartz never did mind a large format camera and a fixed gear bicycle. 

c/o the Library of Congress 

[Steve Palincsar]

Well, if you want real image quality, it's hard to beat an 8x10 contact print. 

On 8/19/19 7:33 PM, Chris Balaschak wrote:

On Monday, August 19, 2019 at 7:08:03 PM UTC-4, Steve Palincsar wrote:

On 8/19/19 6:17 PM, David Bivins wrote:

... some are very heavy

Pretty much, medium format cameras are heavy...   

CL Swartz never did mind a large format camera and a fixed gear bicycle. 

c/o the Library of Congress 

[David Bivins]

I have taken a Yashica-Mat (twin lens reflex aka TLR) on my bike. It's a little awkward because it's big box with corners and it doesn't lay flat as nicely as a rangefinder, but it's great. I have an acquaintance who's a filmmaker and excellent photographer, and he was lamenting that his Rolleiflex broke and he really didn't want to spend a lot of money to replace or repair it. I recommended the Yashica-Mat (there's more than one version) as a replacement, and months later he thanked me for the recommendation. It's not too heavy. Neither is the Rolleicord. I've never had a Rolleiflex. The Mamiya TLR C330? I think? was pretty heavy if I recall correctly.

[Steve Palincsar]

I remember I had a Yashica-Mat in Vietnam.  Can't remember what happened to it, but it really didn't hold a candle to a Rollei.  For certain jobs, there was nothing like a 6x6 TLR.  But, IMHO riding along on a bike isn't one of those jobs - any more than it would be for a Graflex.

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[Wayne Naha]

I have a old Mamiya C3, and can confirm it is tank-like in build and weight.  I love using it, but it is laughably heavy.

[Birdman]

I’ll chime in with another recommendation for the Olympus XA (thanks a million to John Bennett for turning me onto this little gem a few years ago). The XA is aperture priority, has a sharp lens, and although the rangefinder patch can be difficult to focus in low light, the lens is so wide that it’s super easy to zone focus. It’s the perfect size to carry on a bike. I’m proud to say that the shot I took that won third place in the Rivelo Pedal Bikes, Shoot Film competition was shot on my XA. Off the bike, I like to shoot a Leica M3 using sunny 16 with b&w film.

Isaac in Portland OR

[John A. Bennett]

Thanks, Isaac. We're diggin' all the pix you get. 

The XA is a great camera for the reasons you mention. I also like the XA2, which doesn't require focusing and produces very fine photos, too. 

Speaking of photos, I need to get a better one of your contest poster on our humble web site. (Shameless plug follows.)

http://www.rivelopdx.com/shop/poster-no-3-oregon-spot-by-isaac

John at Rivelo in Portland, Ore. 

[Cyclofiend Jim]

Way back when, I worked in a retail camera shop. We sold a bunch of different lines of cameras. When stuff went to electronic shutters, many got increasingly unreliable. 

Had a series of Olympus OM1/OM1n cameras. Agree with John's observation. Those things were bombproof, reliable, small and unobtrusive. Good lenses. Totally mechanical with a simple meter. 

We sold the XA series cameras. Yes the failure mode was the electronic shutter. They had an aspheric element in the lens, so if you pointed them towards the sun, you could get some really odd lens flares in your photos.

I had three of the little Rollei 35 metal framed cameras.  They were rugged and small, but used a zone focus that was a mild PITA. 

Minolta SRT (mechanical) series was solid - but they were kind of big and clunky. Lenses weren't great. 

The Canon cameras were good. They had just transitioned to the "A" series when I began working there. If you could get your hands on the F1 series bodies, those were serious kit. I had an FTb which was the last of the mechanical ones. Held onto that for a while and sold it to a good home. 

Also - they made a few nice little rangefinders in that era just before they brought out the ShureShot.  Some were all mechanical shutters.

Did anyone say Leica? Those still fetch a distinctly serious amount of dough... 

I recently ended up with a family members ~1962 Mamiya C3 Professional 120 format Twin lens Reflex. Was tempted to hang onto it but I'm just not going to mess with shooting 120 film.  So just put that up on ebay this week - https://www.ebay.com/itm/333316165264

If someone on list wants it, please contact me directly.

[Cyclofiend Jim]

Ha. Yeah. $12 may be overpriced for the EM. That was the most returned/repaired model we sold. 

[David Bivins]

I had a Nikon EM. It was so simple and uninspiring.

I have several Minoltas, pre auto-focus era. I love them. I think some of the lenses are great. My favorite isn't the "best" lens but it has the most character: the 58mm 1:1.2 Rokkor. I think vintage Minoltas are are a great deal, and techs still repair them. I'm biased because my dad gave me my first SR-T101 when I was 15 years old. I've since amassed a lot of lenses and accessories. The XD7 is a great Minolta body and the one I use the most. 

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[Max S]

Very highly recommend either a Leica M3 with its .92x viewfinder, or a Minolta SLR with nearly the same across many models — with a 40 or 50mm lens you get a 1 to 1 visual, so it’s easy to “see” what the photo will turn out to be, which is great for feedback on framing. :-)

- Max “analogue” in Ann Arbor

[Birdman]

I don’t have any experience with Minoltas, but wholeheartedly agree with Max about the M3. Shooting an M3 with a 50mm lens is a delight. You can even shoot with both eyes open.

[ChrisB]

I'd recommend looking at the Canonet QL17 GIII. It's firmly in budget, well built, often referred to as a poor man's Leica. It's a rangefinder with a fixed lens but it's quick and sharp - f1.7!! What makes it perfect for the bike though is that it's smaller than an SLR (or a Leica actually), well built (mostly metal) and fasrt loading. It can be used in totally manual mode or with shutter priority. The unavailaility of the original mercury battery is a total non-issue: there are lots of options out there from Wein cells to adaptors or Sunny 16 if you really want go manual.

[Drw]

Thought I’d try to pay it back a little. All the recommendations are great. I now have 4 cameras, where I had none a while back. I “ somehow” ended up with 2 Olympus 35RC’s.

I’m offering one up for free+shipping cost.

The bad
-The light meter is no good (told it’s a 100$ fix)
-both anchor points for a strap have been removed
-the self timer lever is snapped but works

The good
-all manual functions work just fine (aperture, shutter speed, focus etc.)
-it’s a handsome little thing

Pm me if you want a project or are good with sunny 16

[Paul Richardson]

I'm tempted by your offer, but already doing pretty well with my current line-up (I use 2 Olympus Stylus Epics, a Canon AE-1, and a digital Canon 5D).  You said you now have 4 cameras--I'm curious what the others are!

Is the 35RC a must-have?  I would take it off your hands if nobody else bites.

paul

takoma park, md.

[Drw]

The 35rc was claimed. Now I have 3

An xa-2 point and shoot. A 35rc which is likely as manual as I’ll go. a pen-ee2, which is a half frame camera I’m excited about.

All are olympus’ so I guess I’m an Olympus person? Not by design, more that All 4 were bought under my 200$ budget.

[Eric Norris]

Drw:

I have two of those cameras. The XA2, IMHO, is one of the best film cameras for cycling. Leave the focus on the default setting and your shots will be in focus 90% of the time. Go to the infinity setting if you stop to take a picture of the landscape. Pretty rugged, and the clamshell design works very well in a handlebar bag. The only potential downside is that the shutter buttons sometimes fail (but this is fixable—Google it).

I love the 35RC, but I don’t think I’ll use it for cycling much. I’m concerned about the more delicate innards. It does take wonderful photos.

I don’t have the Pen-ee2, but I do have a half-frame Pen-F. Again, a wonderful camera, with the benefit of making your film budget go twice as far! 

Note: Your local lab shouldn’t have problem with half-frame film. My local place in Sacramento simply prints two images on one 4x6 print. No extra cost.

Good luck and have fun! Pedal Bikes, Shoot Film!

--Eric Norris
campyo...@me.com

@CampyOnlyguy (Twitter/Instagram)

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