Inaugural ride for Matthews Road Bike for Road (AM and Fixed hub 26" wheel road bike)

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Patrick Moore

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Jun 27, 2020, 12:42:24 AM6/27/20
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31 miles with the AM hub -- the new 120 mm Surly wheel won't be built for a couple of weeks yet, such is the work backlog in the nearby shop. But the bike was wonderful with the AM hub which with the 48 X 19 drivetrain gives 70" / 63" / 54" (overdrive / direct / underdrive). 

It has been a long time since I rode a SA freewheel hub, and I got aquainted again with the "soft" feeling when you engage the hub through the epicyclic gears; also, with the half-pedal-revolution takeup of the pawls. Both would be annoying if one weren't familiar with these traits. 

It's very easy to swap cogs, and I have a collection of some 4 or 5. For now, overdrive in my usual cruising gear is fine; the 63" is a nice lazy gear, headwind gear, or slight uphill gear, but I may eventually make direct the cruising gear and kick overdrive up to 79" as a tailwind gear, and deal with the 61" low. OR I can add a second cog to the driver; say 17 and 19, but we'll see. 

I generally dislike more than 5 gi difference in the cruising range, but I consider this drivetrain as a ss drive with a lazy gear and a climbing gear; that works!

The big air between rear fender and tire is to accommodate a 40-45 mm Pasela or Nachez Pass and about a 8 tooth cog difference -- there's about an inch of usable space. I will probably add a link to get the axle toward the middle of the slot.

The trigger is nice and in a nice place. The entire system, except for the shifter itself, is QR -- slip out the cable from the trigger, slip out the cable from the housing stops, break the pull chain -- it has a very British "most crude but very effective" indicator chain QR with a prong at top with a tab that snaps into a hole in the bottom part. The wingnuts are original issue SA and there is just barely enough axle threading on the left. But they don't slip, at least not in the 200 or so miles I've put on them with this hub and the earlier S3X.

The parts swapped right over, which was the plan. Only, I had Shoe Goo'd ball bearings into stem binder bolt allen socket and ditto for the sp binder; Chauncey got the ball out of the stem bolt but neither of us could get it out of the seatpost bolt, so I had to cut the bolt. I replaced the ball bearings, but used wax this time.

Fillet brazed, except for bilaminate construction at the seattube/top tube junction.

Only thing now to do, besides wait for the new fixed wheel, is clearcoat the decals.

Altogether, I am, as they say, "chuffed!"

--

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

BILAMINATE.jpg
062620- OLD SCHOOL QR HUB AND CABLE.jpg
062620- MATTHEWS ROAD AFTER INAUGURAL RIDE
062620- OLD SCHOOL SHIFTER POSITION.jpg

Patrick Moore

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Jun 27, 2020, 12:43:08 AM6/27/20
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Let's try the profile view again.
062620- MATTHEWS ROAD AFTER INAUGURAL RIDE

Patrick Moore

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Jun 27, 2020, 12:45:46 AM6/27/20
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Once more:
image.png

On Fri, Jun 26, 2020 at 6:42 PM Patrick Moore <bert...@gmail.com> wrote:

Robert Tilley

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Jun 27, 2020, 1:40:38 AM6/27/20
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That looks nice! What's the wire for that goes down the head tube? I can't make that out.

I'm definitely a fan of the color since it looks pretty similar to my All Rounder as well as the color of my Pugsley.

Robert "green for the win" Tilley
San Diego, CA

Sent from my BlackBerry - the most secure mobile device
Sent: June 26, 2020 5:45 PM
Subject: [RBW] Re: Inaugural ride for Matthews Road Bike for Road (AM and Fixed hub 26" wheel road bike)

Once more:
image.png

On Fri, Jun 26, 2020 at 6:42 PM Patrick Moore <bert...@gmail.com> wrote:
31 miles with the AM hub -- the new 120 mm Surly wheel won't be built for a couple of weeks yet, such is the work backlog in the nearby shop. But the bike was wonderful with the AM hub which with the 48 X 19 drivetrain gives 70" / 63" / 54" (overdrive / direct / underdrive). 

It has been a long time since I rode a SA freewheel hub, and I got aquainted again with the "soft" feeling when you engage the hub through the epicyclic gears; also, with the half-pedal-revolution takeup of the pawls. Both would be annoying if one weren't familiar with these traits. 

It's very easy to swap cogs, and I have a collection of some 4 or 5. For now, overdrive in my usual cruising gear is fine; the 63" is a nice lazy gear, headwind gear, or slight uphill gear, but I may eventually make direct the cruising gear and kick overdrive up to 79" as a tailwind gear, and deal with the 61" low. OR I can add a second cog to the driver; say 17 and 19, but we'll see. 

I generally dislike more than 5 gi difference in the cruising range, but I consider this drivetrain as a ss drive with a lazy gear and a climbing gear; that works!

The big air between rear fender and tire is to accommodate a 40-45 mm Pasela or Nachez Pass and about a 8 tooth cog difference -- there's about an inch of usable space. I will probably add a link to get the axle toward the middle of the slot.

The trigger is nice and in a nice place. The entire system, except for the shifter itself, is QR -- slip out the cable from the trigger, slip out the cable from the housing stops, break the pull chain -- it has a very British "most crude but very effective" indicator chain QR with a prong at top with a tab that snaps into a hole in the bottom part. The wingnuts are original issue SA and there is just barely enough axle threading on the left. But they don't slip, at least not in the 200 or so miles I've put on them with this hub and the earlier S3X.

The parts swapped right over, which was the plan. Only, I had Shoe Goo'd ball bearings into stem binder bolt allen socket and ditto for the sp binder; Chauncey got the ball out of the stem bolt but neither of us could get it out of the seatpost bolt, so I had to cut the bolt. I replaced the ball bearings, but used wax this time.

Fillet brazed, except for bilaminate construction at the seattube/top tube junction.

Only thing now to do, besides wait for the new fixed wheel, is clearcoat the decals.

Altogether, I am, as they say, "chuffed!"

--
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum



--

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

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Ian A

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Jun 27, 2020, 1:44:06 AM6/27/20
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Love that colour. What a perfect choice. Please post the RAL!

How does it perform? You mentioned a potentially compliant and planing frame. Does this frame have more tire clearance than your RBW frames? Will you be tempted by wider rubber at some point?

A very well executed design and build indeed.

IanA Alberta Canada

Dave Small

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Jun 28, 2020, 4:12:46 PM6/28/20
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Hi Patrick,

Very nice.  Can you post a closer-up picture of your headlight support?  I hesitate to mount front or rear lights directly to fenders because of the potential stress of the light's weight on the fender, but it look like you've conquered that problem.  Thanks.

Dave
Boston/Indy

Garth

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Jun 28, 2020, 6:29:40 PM6/28/20
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   What brand/model of seat pack is that Patrick ? 

Patrick Moore

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Jun 29, 2020, 2:26:59 PM6/29/20
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I'll eventually get around to taking photos as "better" as I can make them.

The "arch" that holds the lamp is also a fender support and wire route. I'll take a photo of that in particular. (Eventually.)

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Patrick Moore

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Jun 29, 2020, 2:27:54 PM6/29/20
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Ruthworks extra light seat wedge. Long enough, just, for a Medium Lezyne Road Drive.

On Sun, Jun 28, 2020 at 12:29 PM Garth <gart...@gmail.com> wrote:


   What brand/model of seat pack is that Patrick ? 

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Patrick Moore

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Jun 29, 2020, 2:30:32 PM6/29/20
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Thanks, Ian. Chauncey built the frame to mimic the 2003 Curt but add room for much fatter tires and fenders. The Rivs take 32s with fenders if everything is properly set up; this one is designed for 45s and fenders, and I hope to try the RH Nachez Pass eventually.

I don't know the RAL; sorry.

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Patrick Moore

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Jun 29, 2020, 2:32:06 PM6/29/20
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Thanks. The power wire runs from hub up fender arch to lamp; the tail light wire runs under the fender from headlight to behind crown, then up the head tube and into the top tube, where it runs inside back to the seatstay and down to a rack tube and back to the tail light.



--

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

Robert Tilley

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Jun 30, 2020, 9:49:56 PM6/30/20
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That makes sense. I just installed my first dynamo tail light recently and routing the wires cleanly isn't something I'm good at I found out. I'll need to work on that later but my light works so that was at least one small victory.

Robert Tilley
San Diego, CA

Sent from my BlackBerry - the most secure mobile device
Sent: June 29, 2020 7:32 AM
Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: Inaugural ride for Matthews Road Bike for Road (AM and Fixed hub 26" wheel road bike)

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