32.25 lb with stuffed-full kitbag.
But I do agree that Leah's Platypus (and everyone else's Platypus and Joe's custom, etc) is prettier.
I finally swapped in the 44 cm (middle of bends) Specialised Hover Bar to replace the severely truncated MAP/Ahearne bar (4" off each end, removed from the shorter of the 2 models offered), with Dia Compe non-aero levers pulling Road BB7s. The bar tape is scrap, partial, provisional, and temporary.
The Hover bar has a very short reach, shallow drop, and a 15 mm rise on the flats) and I simply removed the truncated M/A from the 9 cm + 17* Ritchey stem and plunked the Hover in in its place. 44 cm seems wide because I favor 38 cm Maes Parallels on my road bike, but the added width does give more control -- and slows the steering -- and is 1 of 3 qualities that seems to make the bike handle more securely and predictably on sketchy ditchbank paths -- slanting toward 3' of dirty irrigation water on root-infested, 24" ditchside paths. I rode a familar ditchbank route this afternoon and was very pleased that the bike seemed more secure than with the M/A -- I rode it faster and easier. The new bar does put me further forward and lower, but the bike rides "lighter" despite the longer/lower position since -- I guess -- (1) my torso is holding more of my weight up instead of my hands or queen mum, (2) the longer reach gives a greater "tiller effect," and the greater bar width adds to this last. "Lighter:" I noticed this when riding over the typical high-frequency / low-amplitude surface chop -- horses, y'know. The ride seemed smoother, and this was not merely the result of 14 psi: lower and forward means lighter on behind and hands/arms/shoulders.
The greater reach + the wider bar slow handling -- more "tiller" -- so that the Monocog seems positively sluggish now both at 7 mph and at 15 mph where before it was simply "slow" like a lower-middle IQ child, but this sluggishness (just on the "OK" side of acceptable) also means that surface irregularities -- roots, rocks, choppy dirt -- have less effect on the steering.
And one more interesting thing: A more forward and lower position makes you re-think your saddle position. With the M/A I had the saddle -- first edition Flite -- slammed all the way back on the rails and seapost raised for full leg extension; I wanted to sit back and push forward. Leaning and reaching more forward, I wanted to move the saddle forward and down; which I did, ~7 mm forward and ~10 mm down. This felt better particularly in the hooks, which with the slightly lower and closer saddle are now much more comfortable. But the further-forward hoods position also make standing and grunting, as through sand, feel more natural compared to the closer and higher M/A. So perhaps I don't need a shorter or a higher stem after all.
One last remark: for ease of bar swapping, threadless stems and non-aero lever make swaps a doddle. And the Dia Compe non-aero + BB7 Road combo work together brilliantly: strong braking, liberal pad / rotor gap, firm feel. Note please! A critical step in setting up cable disks is to attach the cable after the actuation arm has been moved at least 1/3 and better 1/2 of the way through its travel, not when the arm is fully relaxed.
Altogether, a very serendipitous and happy conjunction of existing, non-adjustable stem, shorter-hood brake levers, very short and shallow new bar, more road-bike-like riding position -- but not as low as on my road bikes -- and correspondingly lower and more forward saddle ended up working very well. Alhamdulillah. Even better would be a 7 cm stem at +17* with a 44 cm Maes Parallel, but for a beater that started out as the result of a last-hope trade, I'm -- as they say -- chuffed.