question re Dremel attachments

[Jim S.]

Hi all, I'm fixing to cut some fender stays and rack struts with my Dremel rotary.

Wow, there are an incredible number of attachment options. It's rather paralyzing.

I'd be grateful if you could recommend (1) a Dremel attachment for cutting stays or struts, and (2) an attachment for smoothing out the sharp edges after the cuts.

Thanks for any information.

[Philip Barrett]

I did this with a hacksaw just yesterday! Should have done it your way, pure laziness not wanting to leave the house & buy replacement Dremel parts.

For cutting you want their E-Z Cut system which has a nice quick release. Use the "real" Dremel wheels as the quality of the cuts is so much higher with less likelihood of shattering.

https://www.dremel.com/au/en/p/dremel-ez-lock-metal-cut-off-wheel-ez456-v746

For smoothing & sanding, they make an E-Z Lock system for their 13mm mandrels which should work great.

https://www.dremel.com/au/en/p/dremel-ez-lock-sanding-mandrel-sanding-band-ez407-v742

[Philip Barrett]

Streuth mate, how about the US links, not the Aussie ones;

https://us.dremel.com/en_US/products/-/show-product/accessories/dremel-ez406-02-ez-lock-cut-off-wheel-starter-kit

https://us.dremel.com/en_US/products/-/show-product/accessories/ez407sa-ez-drum-mandrel

[Paul Brodek]

I'm definitely Team EZ Lock, and have been using the standard Metal Cut Off Wheel for a long time. They do wear/shrink with use, and I just spied this:

https://us.dremel.com/en/products/-/show-product/accessories/dremel-ez506hp-premium-metal-cutting-wheel

I'm down to just a couple of wheels, so I think I'll try the Premiums next.

BTW, I use these for cutting/trimming cable housing, too. With a rechargeable Dremel. Highly recommended.

For smoothing/sanding, I'm a little more old school, and only use hand/arm power for that. I feel like I have more control with files/sandpaper, and slips are less catastrophic.

Paul Brodek

Hillsdale, NJ USA

[John Stowe]

I end up doing fender stays by hand, usually, just because the tools (bolt cutter, file) are quicker to grab-and-use than changing bits on the Dremel. 

But, one Dremel suggestion that hasn't been mentioned: the 932 aluminum oxide grinding stone has a concave end which is great for deburring the ends of thin objects like fender stays without slipping. Not sure I'd use it for housing since it could push the sides in a bit/make a mess of the outer plastic.

https://us.dremel.com/en_US/products/-/show-product/accessories/dremel-932-aluminum-oxide-grinding-stone

-John

[Luke Volkmann]

I'd echo John about the bolt cutter and file. Between plugging in a Dremel, changing attachments, and actually doing the job I'd imagine doing it without a power tool would be faster and less of a choice induced headache. Plus, I find the Knipex Cobolt cutters to be a pleasure to use.

Luke in Seattle

[Tom Wyland]

I've tried the dremel (using a cut-off disk) but I prefer the bolt cutter and file method.  It's easier to get a precise cut and is less messy.

[Addison Quarles]

Are you set on using a dremel for cutting and finishing? 

I use a pair of bolt cutters and a bench top belt sander with good results. I just worry about operating spinny, cutty tools so near a (presumably) beautiful paint job. It's of course more work to fit them, cut them, take them off, finish the edges and then reinstall, but maybe I'm just one to take the scenic route. 

If I'm in a "hurry" I'll cut with the bolt cutters and finish with a hand file, leaving the strut mounted to the fender but not mounted to the frame eyelet. 

All the same, if you're handy with the Dremel and trust that you won't nick the paint, I've always enjoyed using a flex shaft attachment, as it's easier to articulate with. 

Best of luck!

-Addison 

[Paul Brodek]

I slip with a hand file a heckuva lot more than I do with a Dremel.

And the Dremel leaves so much less to finish after the cut. Sometimes it just takes a few twists with some sandpaper.

I don't have a lot of Honjo tubular struts, but I've got a couple/few, and snips/cutters don't make any sense there. Dremel or hacksaw.

The key Dremel heaven is to use a rechargeable Dremel, no cord to get in the way or limit travel.

And that's all I have to say about that....

Paul Brodek

Hillsdale, NJ USA

[Patrick Moore]

I have to agree that a Dremel with cutting wheel makes stays much easier for me; finish off with Dremel grinding bit. Me, my Dremel (a very old but nice one found at Goodwill years ago; better than the new one I had bought, which I then sold) is corded, but I don't use it enough to make buying a new one worthwhile.

But one other secret is to let the rotational speed do the work. I've broken dozens and dozens of cutting wheels by pressing to hard when a light touch would get the job done easier, faster, and neater.

On Wed, May 19, 2021 at 11:12 AM Paul Brodek <pcb....@gmail.com> wrote:

... The key Dremel heaven is to use a rechargeable Dremel, no cord to get in the way or limit travel.

[Paul Brodek]

.....if you're into the whole brevity thing.....

Paul "El Duderino" Brodek

Hillsdale, NJ USA

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[rlti...@gmail.com]

I just picked up the cutting wheels below and they did cut through a broken tap so they appear to do a good job so far. And it didn’t shatter like many of the cutting wheels I have used in the past.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00004UDH3/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_track_package_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

+1 on the cordless option. I just picked one up to replace a corded model and cordless is the way to go.

Robert Tilley

San Diego, CA

Sent from my iPhone

On May 19, 2021, at 10:12 AM, Paul Brodek <pcb....@gmail.com> wrote:



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[Addison Quarles]

The cordless option had never occurred to me; part of my trouble has always been the weight of the cord throwing off the balance of the tool so that could really make a difference. And I can say for sure I've probably not been letting the blade do the work, hence the worry about binding and scooting into the frame/fork. 

Any kind of snip would obviously be out of the question with tubular fender stays, but I guess I had assumed we were talking about solid ones since he didn't specify. 

I've never had much problem with a hand file slipping, but it would seem we've landed on a concrete example of different strokes being for different folks. 

Sounds like I'll have to invest in a battery operated Dremel and give this whole "brevity thing" a try! 

-Addison