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Judging from the photo, you have a recent
vintage 9-speed MTB rear derailleur. If so, all you need to
convert to 9 speed indexing is a 9 speed right hand shifter. In
Shimano world, 8 and 9 speed MTB rear derailleurs are compatible
with road shifters 8-10 speed. 10 speed MTB rear derailleur
changed the cable pull and needs a TanPan device to make the
cable pull compatible. And if you're running 8, no need to get
into the additional complexities and nuances of 11.
I wanted 8 speed in order to have non fiddly friction shifting. I heard that wear may be an issue with the lower end 8 speed cassette and if that’s true I may try to convert to 9 speed indexing, although that may mean sourcing a long cage road derailleur.
-- Steve Palincsar Alexandria, Virginia USA
Correctamundo, I've used that derailer with those 9-speed bar-ends. Easy peasy if you switch to a Shimano/SRAM 9 cassette.
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However, to be clear, that is true for all
rear derailleurs, not just Shadow XT 9. Basically, what you are
saying is, bar-ends are better -- and I agree, as you can see
here.
Yes, a 105 brifter will shift a Shadow XT 9 "ok", but bar-ends are better at it. With brifters the shift either takes or it doesn't, there's not much you can do to help it along. Bar-ends are technically index (rear), but you still have the friction-like ability to coax onto a recalcitrant cog. Related: Me no likey brifters.
Yes, a 105 brifter will shift a Shadow XT 9 "ok", but bar-ends are better at it. With brifters the shift either takes or it doesn't, there's not much you can do to help it along. Bar-ends are technically index (rear), but you still have the friction-like ability to coax onto a recalcitrant cog. Related: Me no likey brifters.
"Should with its dedicated road derailer" doesn't always mean "great with an mtb derailer."
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Taking this as a blanket statement, I am going
to disagree with you. For compatible Shimano rear derailleurs
(i.e., excluding oddball situations like 1st gen Dura Ace 8)
there is no difference in index shifting performance per se
between road rear derailleurs and MTB rear derailleurs. Of
course, wide range rear derailleurs don't shift as well on
narrow range cassettes as rear derailleurs optimized for narrow
range, but that has nothing to do with the shifter.
"Should with its dedicated road derailer" doesn't always mean "great with an mtb derailer."
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Ooh, that's a thing I need to try. I just picked up a Clem H with the Microshift thumbies swapped so the front ratchety-friction works the rear derailer. I have an Advent group, I'm going to mount the cassette and derailer and I'll let y'all know how it goes.
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Nice looking bike John. I used that CX-50 to build a New Albion Starling for a relative and it is smooth unit, intended for cyclocross so very tough. I need a lower gear than you because I have weak old legs. I put a Salsa 26 in place of the stock Campy 30 on a triple and went with an 11-36 rear 9 speed on 105/Synergy wheels I built. 26/36 works for me when going up long grades that I otherwise would climb more quickly in a taller gear, and when I need to get up a real wall of a hill. The Clem I just assembled for a friend has a 46/34/24 with that same 11-36 rear. It works well too. I friction shift. I’ve avoided 40 in back because it starts to get kind of heavy. Even the 36 is noticeably heavier than the 34 or 32 that I run on other bikes.
Happy trails to you!
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