Hi Friends,
We did it. My son and I rode 260 miles through Ohio, Pennsylvania, New York State, and finally, into Canada. Three states, two countries, four days, 60ish+ miles per day. I agreed to half camping, half hotel. We had to have campgrounds with showers, I said. Honestly, there is no way I could have gone to bed without a shower after those rides. It was humid and hot and we perspired from the moment we set out until we parked our bikes.
We started from a hotel in Cleveland. I cannot say we are fans of that city; there was poor cycling infrastructure - read: NO infrastructure - and we had a hard time getting out of there. I’d had no time to get acquainted with my Garmin, and we made a few mistakes before we got rolling.
Our route took us primarily along the Great Lakes Seaway Trail. I just assumed there would be a bike lane/trail/path. It was not named the Great Lakes Seaway HIGHWAY, after all. I was sorely disappointed. It was 55 mph, 2 lane traffic with a shoulder that we kept to, and mostly rode single file. It did not feel safe to go 2 abreast. The noise, the constant vigilance and lack of peace made me pretty edgy for most of those miles. Worst of all, it cheated us out of a lot of talking time, which I was dying to have, since this kid has been so busy since he went to college. The next trip I plan will be primarily on BIKEWAYS. I am not afraid of road riding; I am irritated by it. A friend said to me, “Don’t ride on US highways where they don’t love you, Leah.” How right she is.
The Garmin was indispensable. I have little sense of direction (I blame left-handedness) and absolutely depended on GPS. The Garmin held its charge for all those long days in the saddle - a phone would have failed me. I did bring a power bank, which was good, because I charged my devices in my tent at night.
Our first night was in Geneva State Park, in Ohio. We pitched our tents in the rain. We had practiced prior, so we were quick like jackrabbits and got our tents erected before getting too wet. The raccoons came out and had fights with each other and terrified me in the night. The state campground felt sad, but it had shower houses and this was what I really wanted. We did not dare leave our gear because we’d been warned by the host that a known thief would be checking in that afternoon and he would steal anything and everything. That meant we took all our stuff to dinner and to the beach that day. We explored Geneva On The Lake and hung out in downtown before heading to camp for the night.
A note here to say that I read all the time about people being too afraid to let their bike out of sight. Scared to ride it anywhere in case something might happen to it. But E and I took our bikes everywhere and no one even looked at them. We didn’t even always lock them because it wasn’t always possible. Our first night in Cleveland we had to leave the bikes in the lobby while our room was being readied, and we just pushed tables around them, trusting the doorman to keep a watchful eye. At dinner somewhere in NY state we just left them parked in front of a restaurant, completely unlocked and out of sight to us. The host told us he’d fight tooth and nail if anyone even looked at our bikes. But he left his station frequently to seat customers. It was fine. We parked the bikes in downtown Buffalo, asked to be seated where we could see them, because though they were locked, all our gear was on the bikes. We watched from the window and no one showed one speck of interest. I say this in case you need a little nudge of encouragement to stop garage queening your Rivendell and let it roam the world with you.
Our second night of camping was in Erie, PA at Sara’s Campground. FIVE STARS. They put the bike campers on the actual sandy beach of Lake Erie. We sat in our tents and watched the sunset, and then slept with the waves lapping the shore all night long. The Great Lakes are really inland seas, huge like oceans, but unsalted and shark-free. They are warm and inviting and wonderful. I cannot overstate how wonderful it was to awaken to those waves and that lake breeze. We took that morning to explore Presque Isle State Park, adding another 20 miles to our day. I think we rode 75 miles, in all.
From Erie we rode to Dunkirk, NY. There was NOTHING between Erie and Dunkirk. We ran out of water 10 miles before we arrived, which scared me as we were pouring sweat and it was upwards of 90 degrees. I said to E, “Do you think it’s odd that we are 5 miles from Dunkirk and there have been no road signs for it?” Scary. Just as we arrived, so did a massive downpour. We were soaked all the way through. We took hot showers and put on fresh clothes and went to dinner at a lakeside restaurant.
We left Dunkirk behind and pointed our Rivs towards Buffalo. It was there that we rode a small section of the Empire State Trail. It was indescribable how good it felt to be off the roads and on the safety of that trail. We ate in the city and then headed for the Canadian border.
We were greeted with a majestic scene as we approached Rainbow Bridge. You’ll see what we saw in the Instagram link I have below. We just followed the signs for bikes and walked them right to the Canadian authorities, who asked just a few questions and then waved us through. The Canadians were kind and patient with us on their roadways. We did not have to ride long before we were treated to the nicest cycleway we’d had all trip. It ran concurrent with the river, so we admired lovely homes on the riverfront as we pedaled to Fallsview, Ontario.
Niagara Falls is amazing. You have to see it; no flowery words will describe the falls for you.
I loved my gear. I know I overspent for things I might never use again, but I’m glad I did. I got great stuff, and it made the trip so wonderful, and I plan to bike camp again. It was light and did not make my bike feel unwieldy or heavy. I want to do the GAP and the Empire State Trail, and maybe even in autumn so I can try my new sleeping quilt. I have learned so much and it makes me want to do even more. I intend to get really good at this Garmin and route planning. I just need a partner to do these things with now that my kid is going back to his own life. I have great riding chemistry with my women’s bike group, but I need to replicate this in my new bike touring life.
Ok, I apologize for so many words, but what could I leave out? Below are the 3 videos I made and posted to my IG, if you want a visual recap of our journey.
Thanks for all your help to get me started. I really used it and it made my trip a success. Thank you, thank you, thank you.
L
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Leah Peterson on Instagram: "Part One.
This was my first real bike trip and it included my 19 yo son, with whom I so rarely get time. Leah Peterson does not camp, I’d said. Alas, I just want to be where he is, even if it’s camping.
We did two nights in campgrounds and two in hotels, and that was the right formula for us novices. We practiced tent-pitching; this was advantageous because the first night had us pitching in a rain shower.
We rode along Lake Erie from Cleveland, OH all the way to Fallsview, ON, Canada.
4 days. 260 miles.
The entire experience has been rich. Everything from planning our own route, choosing our lodging, buying good gear, learning new skills, having quality time together, saying yes to new experiences, seeing new country….I am a blessed woman, indeed.
Things I’ve learned:
I will choose a route with a cycleway next time. We rode almost entirely on 55 mph, 2 lane roads. I spent 240 miles praying every car would move over. They did. We stayed on the sh |
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The Canadian side of Niagara Falls is pretty touristy. And busy. If you've never been though, it's something to experience. Also touristy, but with good views, is Skylon tower. I've been to the Falls like 20 times and had never went there. Last time my wife, daughter and I had dinner there (have to reserve in advance). It's a 360 rotating restaurant and gives great views of the falls and surrounding area. Pricey but food was okay. If you want to relax on a beach, try Crystal Beach. If you all had bikes, could ride along the parkway bike path to Niagara on the Lake. Let me know if you have any questions! Enjoy :-)