Preparing Bleriot to Sell--Seeking Advice

[Matthew Danning]

Hi, I'm getting ready to sell my Bleriot, which I'll post here when I'm finished cleaning, adjusting, etc, but I have a couple of questions that I hope the group can weigh in on, especially those that may be interested in buying it:

1.  I can offer it with a 2x8 as a 39/48 or a 34/46 (or 48).  Which is preferable?

2.  Unfortunately, some time ago, the chain came off the chainring, which put a dent in the chain stay.  It doesn't affect, and it's not readily visible unless you're looking for it, and the frame is in otherwise very good condition.  How much of a discount in the asking price is reasonable to account for the dent?

Thanks!

[Drew Fitchette]

Hey Matthew,

Here’s some (probably) unsatisfying answers, but helpful I hope!

1. It depends; I’d love a Bleriot with a 46/34, but others may feel differently. Might need to be negotiated with the potential buyer? Or depend on what chainrings you’d rather keep?

2. Also depends, but if you posted a photo here of the dent/ding I bet you’d get a good idea from some of us what we’d think. 

Also, what size is the frame? I don't need need a Bleriot, but I could definitely justify making space for one… 😜

[Johnny Alien]

Bleriots never reached the desirability of the Japanese models that were sold at the same time so they tend to sell lower than other Rivendells. BUT they rarely pop up for sale so unless the damage is severe I doubt it will make much of a difference in the selling price. If you want a Bleriot you take what you can get at this point because when is the next one going to be available?

[Shannon Menkveld]

I had a very long and detailed post about this, which, of course, got eaten. So the short, short version is this:

Use the 48 and the 34. 48/34 x 9 speed 12-36, or it's siblings, the 8-speed 12-32 and the SRAM (not Shimano) 10-speed 11-36 is money for a wide-range double for a general-puspose sporting road bike. What we used to call a sport-touring bike, or sometimes a fast-recreational road bike. (The length of the eaten post was taken up with all of the other cool chainring combos that one can pair with this wonderfully flexible cassette.)

Predictably, because I'm weird, my "what I would do" wasn't something that you can just buy. A 45/28 double with the 12-36 gives a 3.5-step "mega-alpine" with a range of 21.1 to 101 inches. The shifting is hella strange, it's basically two sequential  drivetrains, a 1x7 handing off to a 1x7 with a triple rear upshift to go with the front downshift. The ideal shift looks like being from the 45x28 (43.5") to the 28x18 (42.1"). It's only a 3% downshift, but if you think about it as a range shift rather than a next-gear shift, it makes more sense. You're going to be on the other ring for a while, so your shift to get into that range should be smaller.

My current bike has 48/34 x 8-speed 12-32. I like it a lot. The only downside is that the 2.5 step shift pattern is still kind of a pain when hunting for the just-right gear on the flats or into the wind. The overlap region, where all of the double-double and triple-double shifts live, right in the middle of the cluster, which kinda sucks. I'm getting better at it, but also having to learn Suntour BarCons at the same time. (No two levers are the same, no matter where they're located on the bike... there's always a learning curve.). I like 'em, but maybe not enough to seek them out specifically? They for sure haven't cured my of my polyshiftery. The only shifter location I've ever disliked was on the stem... gets in the way, especially with bags and lights and GPS and other bar-mounted stuff. (From the Cave of Bad Ideas: Stem shifters might be the business for a 1x 'cross bike with interrupter brake levers...)

--Shannon 

[Doug Van Cleve]

Howdy folks.

On the gearing, the cassette matters, of course.  Also, 650B versus 700C  lowers the effective gearing at least a bit.  I would most likely want 48 or 46/34 though…

If the dent is from chainsuck and in the area behind the small chainring, I highly doubt it really matters. Bleriot were definitely not made out of particularly lightweight or thin steel.

Last thought, Bleriot were the first and perhaps only RBW bikes that were also sold by other vendors. Even factoring that in, it doesn’t seem like there are very many of them around.

Regards, Doug

[Brian Forsee]

Hi Matthew,

My 2 cents: you're over thinking the gearing. Put whatever you want on there. Like others have mentioned if someone is after a Bleriot the options are pretty limited so I'd doubt swapping out a cassette or chain ring would be a deal breaker for buyers. good luck with sale!

[Shannon Menkveld]

Part of my very-long-post that got eaten was a discussion of the goodness of the 48/34 as opposed to the 46/34 on an evenly-spaced cassette of around 15%. The 46/34 is an overlapping mess with every cassette I looked at. Contrariwise, not only does the 48/34 maximize practical range for a road double, it's hard to find a not-stupid cassette that works well with one.

On the 9 speed 12-36, AKA the Single Greatest Gear Cluster Ever Made, you get a 2.5-step "alpine" double. With a range of 25.6 - 108 gear inches, or about  424%, no weirdo parts, and ~8% steps in the midrange. The shift pattern is a pain in the Brooks, to be sure, but at least it hurts the same way and the same amount every time you have to do it.  46/33 is pretty money on paper, but good luck finding a 33x110 ring without sacrificing something you'll need to ride the bike with.

Using a triple crank's two inner positions gives us the following, assuming we like even spacing, and chainrings you can actually buy. (No 43/30, 39/27, etc)

• 45/32, 102 - 24.1 inch range, 422%, "roadiest" gearing, looks maybe best for group and organized fast-recreational rides.
• 42/30, 94.8" - 22.6", 420%%, probably the easiest to get rings for.
• 40/28, 90.3" - 21.1", 429%, might be the business for an around-town bike or a road bike for slower, rambling road rides.
  

All of these are 2.5-step alpines. For the 8-speed 12-32 that I'm using, all three work perfectly. I'd probably start with the 45/32, as it's the smallest change from the 48/34 that I'm riding and enjoying now, and if I hate it, a 45x110 chainring is a good thing to have handy... just about doubles your chances of finding a combo that works for you.

Don't let the 90.3" high gear on the 40/28 x 12-36 scare you off. It's higher than the 86" 45x14 top gear on my Fuji, and that was never a problem for the way I rode that bike. (It's got a weirdo drivetrain, 45/42/30x14-16-18-20-23-26. I was broke, the bike was a singlespeed as purchased, and I needed lower gears... with as many of my parts as I could get away with. This included a 1980 Suntour Superbe rear derailleur that I had sitting in my parts box. In it's box. Which I'd had for about 15 years and never mounted on a bike. It breaks all sorts of rules, but the gearing is spot-on for what I wanted, and with Rivendell Silver 1s, it shifts better than I do.

--Shannon

[J S]

I sold my 55cm Bleriot about 1 or 2 years ago on this forum. I got my asking price of $1,000 if memory serves. The frame was in excellent condition, a few scratches , maybe ma chip but that was it. I sold as a frame and fork only. The Beloit is desirable but not as much as the Saluki which it was a very close cousin to, just made in Taiwan, not Japan. I brought it to my bike builder shop to look it over and take off the parts before selling and see if it needed any adjustments. I wanted it to go out as perfect as possible.

I hope this helps.

[Patrick Moore]

Shannon’s post reminded me of the pleasures of half step gearing, which to my mind are two:

1. Pure economy of gear combinations.

2. Fun to shift, if you like manual shifting. I do.

Does anyone here use a half-stepped system?

The gear combo described ends up giving these ratios (assuming 27” wheel):

	45	42	30
14	87	81
16	76	71
20	61	57
23	53	49	35
26	47	44	31

That is undeniably economical, and I’ll bet it’s hellafun to shift. 

It has been almost a couple of decades since my last half step drivetrain — actually, since it was a 2X7, it was a “Sorta” half step drivetrain where I half-stepped the middle 5 gears and used the small only with the big ring for a 90”+ downhill gear and the big only with the small ring for a 30-something climbing gear. It was designed so that the ~70” and ~65” commuting cruising gears (rolling terrain) were both on the middle 17t cog, so that, with Kelly TakeOffs, all I had to do was to flick the left lever back and forth; lovely. But I did enjoy the much more rare double shifts that this system requires for steeper hills; partly because I like shifting and partly because they were rare (if I’d had to double shift between 70” and 65” I’d have junked it immediately).

I’ve been thinking that if I (ever) start doing longer pavement rides, I’ll need a derailleur road bike (only derailleur bike right now is the 30+ lb Matthews road-bike-for-dirt with 50s and fenders and lights and racks and bags that I won’t need for longer pavement rides.

Anyway, it would be fun to set up a nice road bike with a 2X9 or so hybrid system, with 1 or 2 big ring downhill gears, half-stepped middle gears, and a number of small-ring climbing gears. 

On Fri, Jul 25, 2025 at 3:26 AM Shannon Menkveld <shannon....@gmail.com> wrote:

… Don’t let the 90.3" high gear on the 40/28 x 12-36 scare you off. It's higher than the 86" 45x14 top gear on my Fuji, and that was never a problem for the way I rode that bike. (It's got a weirdo drivetrain, 45/42/30x14-16-18-20-23-26. I was broke, the bike was a singlespeed as purchased, and I needed lower gears... with as many of my parts as I could get away with. This included a 1980 Suntour Superbe rear derailleur that I had sitting in my parts box. In it's box. Which I'd had for about 15 years and never mounted on a bike. It breaks all sorts of rules, but the gearing is spot-on for what I wanted, and with Rivendell Silver 1s, it shifts better than I do.

[Ted Durant]

On Friday, July 25, 2025 at 12:57:43 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:

Shannon’s post reminded me of the pleasures of half step gearing...

Does anyone here use a half-stepped system?

 This is a timely post for me. I recently took delivery of a new Chapman "light touring" bike and, as part of the process of deciding what did that bike want to be, I worked hard on a half-step gearing setup. It turns out to be impossible to buy a cassette that works for that, so I cobbled together something from Alibaba and spent some time with it on a test bike.  I'm pretty sure I'm as nerdy about gearing as anyone, and I have the Excel workbook to prove it. I am supportive of the idea of half-step and I wanted it to work. In practice, though, I didn't find it worked well for the riding I mostly do around here. 

My take on it is that, if you are limited to 5 or 6 cogs in back, then half-step makes sense for all the usual reasons. Like Shannon, my preference is for a 15% step between gears, just enough to be meaningful, not so much that I have to ride at a cadence that's outside my comfort zone between gears. The Shimano 9-speed 11-32 cassettes are 11-12-14-16-18-21-24-28-32, which is average steps of 14% from the 12 to the 32, with a minuscule 1.4% standard deviation among those steps. The 11-12 jump is pretty much a toss - okay, fine, I can turn it to 11 for that little extra more at 50kph.

I also understand the idea of efficiency and not having any duplicate gears, but in practice my 2x9 is an 8-speed transmission with a two-speed transfer case and one extra gear at the top. I'm normally in the big ring, shifting to the small ring when facing a sustained climb of, say, 5% or more. In either ring I've got lovely, consistent 12-15% jumps between each cog. What I really care about in front is that the change between the big and small ring is around 30-35%, big enough to get me to some appreciably smaller gears, but not so big that it's a massive change in RPMs when I shift. A 42/26 combo is a giant 48% change (I use log-differences...), which is way too much for me unless I first shift the rear at least 2 cogs. Minimizing shifts is another form of efficiency, and I'm happy to use the 9 cogs in back to improve that aspect. I've learned not to grind my gears (hah) over duplicate gear combinations.

With 11+ cogs in back it opens up another style of gearing, which I have on one of my Sams. The small part of the cassette is 1-tooth jumps, 11-15; the large part is 2+ jumps, 11-15%, average 13%, stdev 1.3%. This creates something of a 4-range gear setup - 1) big gears/small jumps; 2) medium gears/medium jumps;  3) medium gears/small jumps; and 4) low gears/medium jumps. Well, that's the theory. In practice I end up using it as simply high gears/low gears, and I tend to spend most time in the bigger 2/3 of the cassette. 

Ted Durant

Milwaukee, WI USA

[rlti...@gmail.com]

Brompton 6 speeds are basically half-step gearing.  Three speeds on the internal hub with two cogs making 6 gears spaced about 25% apart. I’ve never used a true half-step.

Robert Tilley

San Diego, CA

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 25, 2025, at 7:13 PM, Ted Durant <tedd...@gmail.com> wrote:

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[Shannon Menkveld]

The Shimano 9-speed 12-36 is a half-stepper's dream cluster:

12-14-16-18-21-24-28-32-36

Makes for a 7-9% half step with any of: 

• 48/45 (107 - 33.4 inches)
• 45/42 (100" - 31.2", probably what I would build. 45t chainrings are limited to 110 bcd, so far as I can tell.)
• 42/39 (29" - 93.6", best bet for a 130 or 135 road crank.)

Similar logic applies to 1.5-step and 2.5-step setups.

The SRAM, but not Shimano, 10-speed 11-36 just adds the 11 to the existing progression, giving a 112 inch high gear, at the costs of going 10 speed. Not worth it, IMHO, unless I was standardizing all my bikes on 10. (Which I wouldn't do, the price jump from 9 to 10 speed parts is still pretty huge.)

You do have to use a road double front derailleur, or an older triple that's marked "for half step gearing" or somesuch. I know there's a Deore, and there are probably others. They don't have the dropped and profiled inner cage plate, which will hit the middle ring when you're upshifting. I use a Suntour AR, and it works great.

I built my HS+G because

• I was converting a bike that I bought as an un-Drewed single speed back to geared drive.
• I needed low gears
• I was cash broke and parts middle-class
• I had a NIB 1980 Suntour Superbe rear derailleur that I really wanted to use, but its max cog and chainwrap are specc'd at 23t.
• All my freewheels were 1x-26 clusters
• I'd always wanted to try a half-step. It appealed to me, primarily because duplicate gears offend my sense of rightness.
• I was broke

It works a treat. The ~7% gaps are perfect, especially on the flats and into the wind. And, yes, with the Rivendell Silver D/T levers, it's a lot of fun to shift. (The way I do it is, from a stop, ride up on the 42 (~14% jumps, not a problem when you're accelerating,) until I'm just spinning just that little bit too fast. Then upshift the front and iBob's yer uncle.

The Peugeot PKN-10 has 48/34 x 12-14-16-18-21-24-28-32, for a 28.4" - 117" 2.5-step "alpine" setup.

The GT Karakoram will get 42/34/22 x 12-14-16-18-21-24-28-32, for a 92.1"-18.1" 1.5-step + granny. (I may try the double version on the Peugeot, as I think it will make the big ring even more useful.)

--Shannon

[Laing Conley]

I run a half step plus granny on my Bombadil. It is a 3x7. The 7 is a freewheel, Suntour New Winner, 12-34 if I remember correctly. The crank is a Sugino with TA chainrings for the half step - I think 38-41 with a stainless steel 24 for the granny. With only a 7 speed on the rear, the half step makes gives me more usable gears. I ran a 3x5 half step plus granny on my Paramount P-15 a half of a century ago (currently a 2x6). The longer wheelbase of the Bombadil makes for a better chain line. Rivendells are perfect for half steps because of the long wheelbases and required “cross chaining” for best use of the half step. The narrow freewheels (or cassettes) allow less dish for a stronger rear wheel. 

With the excess number of cogs on modern cassettes, having a half step is not as necessary of a thing to avoid big spaces between the gears. Way back when, I used to tape a gearing chart to my stem. 

Laing Conley

Delray Beach FL

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/8a9eb0da-3595-4b74-86d9-6c3236aca823n%40googlegroups.com.

[Bill Lindsay]

Shannon said: 

"The Shimano 9-speed 12-36 is a half-stepper's dream cluster:

12-14-16-18-21-24-28-32-36

Makes for a 7-9% half step with any of: 

• 48/45 (107 - 33.4 inches)
• 45/42 (100" - 31.2", probably what I would build. 45t chainrings are limited to 110 bcd, so far as I can tell.)
• 42/39 (29" - 93.6", best bet for a 130 or 135 road crank."

I agree, and that 45/42 is what I built, using that 12-36 cassette.  Rivendell sells a 45T ring that fits EITHER a 130mm or 110mm BCD.  45T 110/130BCD Link

My build includes the 7 smaller cogs (12-28) from that 12-36 cassette, with 10-speed spacers, and it fits onto my semi-custom 120mm Shimano cassette hub.  I'm running the 45/42 on a Dura Ace 7400 crankset.  That half-step build is nicknamed Dr Pepper, from the 1990s hiphop lyric: "I never half-step 'cause I'm not a half-stepper.  Drink a lot of soda, so they call me Dr Pepper". ;)

There's yet another extremely weird detail about Dr Pepper: both front and rear derailleurs are low-normal (a.k.a. OM). 

Bill Lindsay

El Cerrito, CA

[Hugh C]

I think it would appeal to a wider audience with the smaller chainrings. The general trend across the cycling community, except maybe the 100% road racer, is smaller chainrings and smaller gearing. I think that would apply too for what most people would use a Bleriot for. I personally wouldn’t worry about a barely noticeable chainstay dent/scrape if the frame/dropouts are straight. 

I’ve been shopping for a Riv recently and got pics of a friend of a friend who is selling a Bleriot. Sadly too small for me. Might you be a friend of Andy with the Atala and the Atlantis?

[Patrick Moore]

This is very interesting since it uses a stock cassette. Must investigate further.

I like the 45/42 option.

Can one still get 45 t rings? I used to get odd-tooth-count sizes in 110 bcd from Sugino 30 years ago — I used both 47/44 and 48/45 combos (25” wheels) but I’ve not looked since.

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Patrick Moore

Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

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[Laing Conley]

Whenever I want odd chainring sizes, I check Peter White 1st. He carries the TA chainrings in many BCDs. 

Laing

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/CALuTfgsQfUipYu9NnefQoqGVATpspp%3DJLgOoJ0pHesFyFfJ-mA%40mail.gmail.com.

[Shannon Menkveld]

I bought my 45t x 110 mm 45t about 4 years ago, I forget where from. Ordered from JBI, I think. It's a Dimension, no ramps n' pins, but in a half-step, who cares? You might want to look at BMX suppliers, too. 45t x 110 mm bcd x 3/16" chain shouldn't be too hard to find... 45t has been a standard BMX size for decades.

--Shannon

[Eric Marth]

Matthew — Apologies for the serious thread drift here about gearing. 

To answer your questions: 

1) Either, it doesn't matter. The chances that your complete build suits a potential buyer perfectly  are pretty low. I think that many of us here and on iBOB who buy used completes end up taking them apart, salvaging, parting out, hoarding the parts, then building up the bike exactly how it suits our needs and riding styles. I bought a complete Hillborne a few years ago. I really wanted a Hillborne. I had no interest in the way the previous owner had it built up: saddle, tires, bars, stem, shifters, etc. In my time looking at used Rivs I've seen plenty of hot builds but when it comes to completes for sale very few would I buy without making serious changes. It's worth considering selling it as a F/F/HS or perhaps a rolling chassis given the Bleriot is built around 650B wheels.

2) A small dent like you describe is something I think just about anyone on the forum would overlook. 

Pictures would be helpful! 

[Patrick Moore]

For the record, this is a new thread about half-step gearing.

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/0fdebc52-b676-43b5-ada2-12f67664166dn%40googlegroups.com.

[Ted Durant]

On Tuesday, July 29, 2025 at 11:26:51 AM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:

For the record, this is a new thread about half-step gearing.

On Mon, Jul 28, 2025 at 5:40 PM Eric Marth <eric...@gmail.com> wrote:

Matthew — Apologies for the serious thread drift here about gearing. 

Well, yes, and no. It depends on how you're interacting with the list. If you are using groups.google.com in a web browser, this is still the "Preparing Bleriot To Sell" thread. If you are use your email app, it probably appears to be a separate thread because of the change in subject..

[Patrick Moore]

I view the list in Gmail. I meant to start a new thread; what did I miss?

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[Ted Durant]

On Jul 29, 2025, at 4:18 PM, Patrick Moore <bert...@gmail.com> wrote:

I view the list in Gmail. I meant to start a new thread; what did I miss?

I think if you reply to a message and change the subject line, the Google Groups system keeps the new messages under the existing thread despite the new subject. Starting a new thread has to be done explicitly. At least, that’s been my experience.  

Normally I read messages in the digest in the Mail app on my Mac/iPhone. If I want to reply to something from the digest, I go to the Google Groups system in a browser. (Replying to the digest email is very confusing to the system.)  If I have contributed to a thread, I become subscribed to that thread and I get the individual messages that follow. If replying to an individual message, I sometimes do that in my Mail app, sometimes in the Google Groups system in a browser. If I want to start a new thread, I do that in the Google Groups system in a browser. 

I’m a fan of starting a new thread when the topic drifts, and I appreciated that you tried to do that here!

As an experiment, I’m sending this as a reply to Patrick’s message, with a changed subject. I’m also going to explicitly start a new thread on Google Groups.

[Patrick Moore]

By the time I finally get around to understanding how Gmail works Alphabet will pull it from the market.

I did try and now I know what extra step to take.

Thanks.

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[Ted Durant]

On Jul 29, 2025, at 7:21 PM, Patrick Moore <bert...@gmail.com> wrote:

By the time I finally get around to understanding how Gmail works Alphabet will pull it from the market.

I did try and now I know what extra step to take.

As a coda to my experiment, I noted that the digest showed your post as a new thread. You would THINK that Google would at least be consistent between the browser-based interface and the digest, but, nope.

[GAJett]

Unfortunately Peter White lists only a relatively few odd-toothed chainwheels anymore, and none for the TA Cyclotourist (grrrr...).  

(Source:  https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/tach.php accessed 2025-Oct. 20 at 12:00 PDT)

But first, a summary:
  Bolt     # # |   Bolt     # #
Circle Teeth Chainrings | Circle Teeth Chainrings
------- ------ ------------- | ------- ------ -------------
74 mm 31 1 | 130 mm 39   9
| 130 mm 41   2
80 mm 31 1 | 130 mm 47   1
80 mm 33 1 | 130 mm 51   4
| 130 mm 53   5
90 mm 29 2 | 130 mm 55   1
| 130 mm 61   1
110 mm 33 3 |
110 mm 35 1 | 135 mm 39 14
110 mm 39 4 | 135 mm 41   1
110 mm 45 1 | 135 mm 51   1
110 mm 47 3 | 135 mm 53   3
110 mm 51 2 |
110 mm 53 4 | 144 mm 41   1
| 144 mm 47   1
120 mm 39 1 | 144 mm 51   1
| 144 mm 53   1
TA Cyclotourist 0

Most important to me are the 110 / 74 mm chainrings and the TA Cyclotourist chainrings.  
TA used to produce odd-toothed rings throughout cyclotourist range, but alas, no longer -- so I'm out of luck there.

Here is a comprehensive list of all TA chainrings Peter currently has in stock.
Note that it is here you can see inner vs. middle vs. inner and doubles vs. triples.

TA Odd-Toothed Chainrings:
for SHIMANO
GRX-2 X110 and X80 chainrings are for Shimano 12 speed "Gravel" cranksets.
Part Number Description Price
TAPL480801G9-31 TA GRX-2 X80 Inner Black 31 teeth 10-11-12 speed $42.00
 
X110-12 and X80-12 chainrings are for Shimano 12 speed road cranksets.
Part Number  Description Price
TAPL49110369-49 TA X110 12V Outer Position 12 speed 49 teeth black $94.00
TAPL49110169-33 TA X80 12V Inner Position 12 speed 33 teeth black $50.00
Part Number   Description                   Price
TAX110EXT53B   TA X110 Outer 11 speed 53 teeth black       $94.00
TAX110IN33B   TA X110 Inner 11 speed 33 teeth black       $50.00
TAX110IN39B   TA X110 Inner 11 speed 39 teeth black       $50.00

Ovalution X110 Chainrings for 4 Arm Shimano 11 Speed Dura Ace 9000, Ultegra 6800 and 105 5800 Cranksets
(Must be used as a pair.)
Part Number   Description                   Price
TAPL-48110189-36 TA Ovalution X110 inner 10/11s 35 teeth black   $75.00

for CAMPOGNOLO
110mm Nerius 11 Speed Chainrings for Campagnolo Compact Cranksets
TA110NER1139G TA Nerius 11 110mm inner 39t grey       $54.00
TA110NER1153G TA Nerius 11 110mm Outer 53t grey       $94.00

110mm Nerius 9 or 10 Speed Chainrings for Campagnolo Compact Cranksets
TANER39B     TA Nerius 10 110mm inner 39t black Campy compat   $54.00
TANER39S     TA Nerius 10 110mm inner 39t silver Campy compat    $54.00
TANER49S     TA Nerius 10 110mm outer 49t silver Campy compat   $82.00
TANER53B     TA Nerius 10 110mm outer 53t black Campy compat  $82.00

Campagnolo Carbone 4 bolt Cranksets
(Carbone cranks have a 112mm inner bolt circle, and 145mm outer bolt circle)
Part Number   Description                     Price
TAPL-48112109-39 TA X112 for Campy Carbone inner 39t grey       $54.00
TAPL-48145309-53 TA X145 for Campy Carbone outer 53t grey       $94.00

GENERAL CHAINRINGS FOR COMPACT CRANKSETS
110mm Syrius 11 Speed Chainrings for Compact Cranksets
Part Number   Description                     Price
TASYR1139B   TA Syrius 11 110mm 39 teeth black         $60.00
TASYR1153B   TA Syrius 11 110mm 53 teeth black         $88.00

110mm Zephyr Chainrings for Compact Double Cranksets and Triples
Part Number   Description                     Price
TA110MID33B   TA Zephyr 110mm inner 33 teeth black         $45.00
TA110MID33S   TA Zephyr 110mm inner 33 teeth silver         $45.00
A110MID39B   TA Zephyr 110mm middle 39 teeth black       $54.00
TA110MID39S   TA Zephyr 110mm middle 39 teeth silver       $54.00
TA110EXT45B   TA Zephyr 110mm outer 45 teeth black         $66.00
TA110EXT49B   TA Zephyr 110mm outer 49 teeth black          $66.00
TA110EXT49S   TA Zephyr 110mm outer 49 teeth silver          $66.00
TA110EXT51B   TA Zephyr 110mm outer 51 teeth black         $66.00
TA110EXT51S   TA Zephyr 110mm outer 51 teeth silver          $66.00
TA110EXT53B   TA Zephyr 110mm outer 53 teeth black         $66.00
TA110EXT53S   TA Zephyr 110mm outer 53 teeth silver         $66.00

GENERAL 130 BOLT CIRCLE CHAINRINGS
Ovalution 130mm for Road Double Cranksets (Must be used as pairs)
Part Number   Description                     Price
TAPL-58130189-41 TA Ovalution 130mm inner 10/11s 41 teeth black   $45.00

Alize 130mm Chainrings for Road Double and Triple Cranksets
Part Number   Description                     Price
TA130EXT51B   TA Alize 130mm outer 51 teeth black         $66.00
TA130EXT51S   TA Alize 130mm outer 51 teeth silver        $66.00
TA130EXT53B   TA Alize 130mm outer 53 teeth black        $66.00
TA130EXT53S   TA Alize 130mm outer 53 teeth silver       $66.00
TA130EXT55S   TA Alize 130mm outer 55 teeth silve        $74.00
TA130EXT61S   TA Alize 130mm outer 61 teeth silver        $74.00
Inner for Double Crankset
Part Number   Description                     Price
TA130IN39B   TA Alize 130mm inner 39 teeth black         $51.00
TA130IN39S   TA Alize 130mm inner 39 teeth silver         $51.00
Middle for Triple Crankset
Part Number   Description                     Price
TA130MID39B   TA Alize 130mm middle 39 teeth black         $58.00
TA130MID39S   TA Alize 130mm middle 39 teeth silver         $58.00
TA130MID41S   TA Alize 130mm middle 41 teeth silver         $60.00
Alize K Tripleizer Middle Chainring (accepts a 74mm inner chainring)
Part Number   Description                     Price
TA130K39S     TA Alize K+ 130mm 39 teeth silver           $94.00

Hegoa 130mm for Double Cranksets (extra machining for minimal weight)
Part Number   Description                     Price
TAHEGR51     TA Hegoa 130mm 51 teeth red           $75.00
TAHEGB53     TA Hegoa 130mm 53 teeth black           $75.00
TAHEBS53     TA Hegoa 130mm 53 teeth silver           $75.00
TAHEGR53     TA Hegoa 130mm 53 teeth red           $75.00
TAHEGB39     TA Hegoa 130mm 39 teeth black           $75.00
TAHEGG38     TA Hegoa 130mm 39 teeth gold           $75.00
TAHEGR39     TA Hegoa 130mm 39 teeth red           $75.00

Ultra 130 Outer for Ultegra 6700 Double 10 Speed & 6703 Triple 10 Speed
Outer Only, use with Alize or Hegoa Inner
Part Number   Description                     Price
TA130UL53B   TA Ultra 130mm 53 teeth Black Ultegra with bolts & covers $85.00
TA130UL53G   TA Ultra 130mm 53 teeth Grey Ultegra with bolts &     $85.00
Spare Covers & Aluminum Bolts for Ultra 130

135 MM BOLT CIRCLE CHAINRINGS
Horus 8, 9, 10 Speed for 135mm Campagnolo Double Cranksets
Part Number   Description                     Price
TAHOR51B     TA Horus 135mm 51 teeth Black           $75.00
TAHOR53R     TA Horus 135mm 53 teeth Red           $75.00

HORUS 11 compatible with 11S CAMPAGNOLO 135 mm Super Record 11S/Comp Ultra 11S/Chorus 11S (2009-2014)/ Athena Alu Triple 11S 135/94
TA135HOR1153G  TA Horus 11 135mm outer 53t grey         $94.00
TA135HOR1139G TA Horus 11 135mm inner 39t grey         $54.00

Vento for Campagnolo 135mm 8, 9, 10 speed Double & Triple
Part Number   Description                     Price
TA135EXT53B   TA Vento 135mm outer 53 teeth black         $66.00
TA135EXT53S   TA Vento 135mm outer 53 teeth silver         $66.00
TA135INN39B   TA Vento 135mm inner 39 teeth black         $44.00
TA135INN39S   TA Vento 135mm inner 39 teeth silver         $44.00
TA135MID39B   TA Vento 135mm middle 39 teeth black        $54.00
TA135MID39S   TA Vento 135mm middle 39 teeth silver       $54.00

Vento K+ Middle to Convert Double Crank to Triple, also known as a Tripleizer. Includes mounts and hardware for 74mm inner.
Part Number   Description                     Price
TA135K39S     TA Vento K+ 135mm 39 teeth silver         $94.00
TA135K41S     TA Vento K+ 135mm 41 teeth silver         $94.00

74 MM BOLT CIRCLE CHAINRINGS
Zelito 74mm
Inner for 110mm, 130mm and 135mm Triple Cranksets. Also mounts directly to any K+ middle chainring.
Part Number   Description                     Price
TA74-31     TA Zelito 74mm inner 31 teeth silver         $30.00

94 MM BOLT CIRCLE CHAINRINGS
Inner for Double
Part Number   Description                     Price
TA94INN29     TA Compact 94mm inner 29 teeth silver       $42.00
TA94INN29B   TA Compact 94mm inner 29 teeth black       $40.00

144 MM BOLT CIRCLE CHAINRINGS
Competition for Older Campagnolo Record & Super Record up to 8 speed
TA144-41     TA Competition 144mm 41 teeth silver inner     $63.00
TA144-53     TA Competition 144mm 53 teeth silver outer     $115.00

SRAM
Cross for SRAM XX, X0, X9, X7 Double Cranksets
TAPL-41120309-39 TA Cross for SRAM 120mm 39 teeth black       $75.00

TA CYCLOTOURIST
Pro 5 Vis aka Cyclotourist
Inner/Middle    (no odd toothed chainwheels listed)
Outer        (no odd toothed chainwheels listed)

On Saturday, July 26, 2025 at 4:22:29 PM UTC-7 lconley wrote:

[Peter White]

I wish these companies made more odd tooth count rings, and I'm sure that the reason they don't is that the number they expect to sell just doesn't warrant producing them. Now, for the record, if I wanted to buy enough (for example) Pro 5 Vis outer 47 tooth chainrings, they would make them for me. Last time I checked (perhaps 10 years ago) the minimum quantity they needed to produce was 12 units for a ring they don't show on their price list. Then I gave it some thought and realized that I would be sitting on those rings for longer than I can reasonably expect to live! And I'm reasonably sure that the good folks at TA make the same calculations.

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/f0de856e-142c-4a8f-8dab-6d130f591464n%40googlegroups.com.

--

Peter White

[Ted Durant]

On Tuesday, October 21, 2025 at 10:34:50 AM UTC-5 peter...@gmail.com wrote:

 Last time I checked (perhaps 10 years ago) the minimum quantity they needed to produce was 12 units for a ring they don't show on their price list. Then I gave it some thought and realized that I would be sitting on those rings for longer than I can reasonably expect to live! And I'm reasonably sure that the good folks at TA make the same calculations.

Yeah, that's why I got out of the chainring business.