Tektro R559 - Cable Anchor Bolt Replacement?

[Tim Tetrault]

Hi Folks, 

I have a 2012 Sam that uses Tektro R559 side pull canti's with a square "smush" style anchor bolt for the brake cable. (See picture)

Trouble is I generally fray or smush the brake cable more than I'd like. Can one replace these with something that has a little bit more of a "pocket" for the cable, so I can adjust as the pads wear with less smushing/fraying?

Something like this- 

https://www.amazon.com/Brake-Part-Anchor-Bolt-Tektro/dp/B0047MCLUE

Maybe the answer is I get one of those 'third hand' brake tools to really seat it in there better when installing...

Thanks for any help,

Tim

[lconley]

You can solder the cable that goes in the anchor. You can still crush the soldered cable, but the soldered cable will take more clamping force before it crushes.

I also align the square washer so it contacts the cable along the full length and keep the cable as close as possible to the bolt. There is a semi-concave groove somewhere in there as I recall.

Laing

[Tim Tetrault]

Thanks for the soldering idea- that’s great. On my particular 559s there’s not one grove but three that seems to act as friction bites on the cable. 

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[lconley]

Remember that Stainless Steel cables require a different flux and solder than the older galvanized cables. The solder and flux for SS works on galvanized but not vice-versa.

Laing

[Ben Adrian]

Could a small cable channel be cut with something like a dremel? I've never used these brakes, so I"m not sure if this is a possible modification.

Cheers!

Ben

[Tim Tetrault]

Eh, I wouldn't want to degrade the mechanism in any way. 

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[Garth]

Without seeing the details of the stock R559 cable anchor I can't say if it's replaceable, or even a groove could be formed with it as it is. Even this detailed exterior image desn't really help as you gotta see the what's inside. All that said though, certain cables are more prone to squashing than others. Just because a cable gets squashed above or below the pinch doesn't mean it will fray though, and fraying beyond the pinch bolt doesn't matter anyways and it could be said the fraying at the end would help prevent it from going through in the rare case of a anchor bolt failure. Fraying above the pinch bolt does matter however and should be replaced. You can overtighten cables though, or repeat it too often in trying to get it "just right". Doing one good tightening motion is optimal. You can "practice" how tight is just right with a cable your going to replace.  That's the story at least ...... 

https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/3207af92-894e-4cbf-a7cf-53247a041a71_1.7cdf7cfc5b00ffbbc12956fa9edcc530.jpeg

[Tim Tetrault]

Brilliant, Garth, thank you.

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[Coal Bee Rye Anne]

Generally speaking, I can at least confirm the anchor bolts can be replaced, in a pinch (pun intended,) with a m5 bolt and washer.  I mention this alternative simply because this is what I was forced to do after foolishly taking a quick test ride mid-build after doing some parts swapping while neglectfully leaving anchor bolts loosely attached after cable removal with the prior bars and/or levers.  Of course one of them rattled off somewhere along the way which I failed to notice until attempting to finally install new cables.  I cannot say whether the current bolt/washer is any better or worse than the stock anchor block with regard to smushing or fraying or even securing the cable but it's been holding up okay between several seasons on my r539 and I was at least happy to discover an easy solution within the metric bolt jar.

Brian

Lawrence NJ

[JohnS]

Tim,

A 3rd hand brake tool is very handy when setting up side pull brakes like yours. As I recall, the trick is to have the brake adjuster turned out 3/4 of the way as you pull the cable tight and then tighten the bolt. Remove the 3rd hand tool and turn the adjuster in until the brake pads are clear from the rim.

JohnS

[Tim Tetrault]

Thank you John.

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