Converting a Legolas from threadless to threaded/quill

[Tom Goodmann]

This is a great bike, and not so easily found; and with the help of a local friend from this list, the cockpit fits me well at the very limit of spacers.  The steerer was cut too short to my liking by the previous owner, and I am frustrated that the stem is not adjustable, a feature I enjoy with quill stems.  I think the frame was made by Mark Nobilette.  Has anyone converted a threadless steerer to threaded?  What do you think?  Appreciative, as ever, of this community.   --Tom in Miami 

[Brian Campbell]

Maybe have a local builder replace the existing steerer tube with a longer, threaded version?

[lconley]

If the steerer tube thickness is the same, I think you can just have the threadless fork threaded by a frame maker with the correct die. I believe that the outer diameters of 1" threaded and threadless are the same (plenty of people have just installed threadless stems on threaded forks, despite warnings that the steerer tube is weaker at the threads). If steerer tube thickness is the same, then the stem should fit in the steerer tube once the nut is removed from inside the steerer tube - you can check this yourself with a threaded style stem. If the steerer tube is too thick and the stem will not go in, you can have the tube reamed or honed to size. If the steerer tube is too thin, then you may be looking at a new fork or having the steerer tube replaced in the existing fork.

Laing

On Thursday, August 13, 2020 at 8:16:32 AM UTC-4, Tom Goodmann wrote:

[Dave Johnston]

Is the steerer 1", or are you going to have to source a 1 1/8" quill stem?
If it is 1", You could get one of these Tange headsets that locks the Threadless headset in place and then allows you to use a quill. I would not cut any off the steerer when you do this in case you ever want to go back, definitely leave enough for a stem in case you ever want to sell the frame and fork.

http://m.tangeseiki.com/jm/products/headset/standard/standard-threadless/standard-threadless-1/73-technoglide-quill.html

A few people including myself had the 1" Rawland Stag fork threaded. It's rougher than factory threads but it works.

-Dave J

On Thursday, August 13, 2020 at 8:16:32 AM UTC-4, Tom Goodmann wrote:

[J L]

Tom,

If you want the aesthetic of a quill stem the best and safest way to achieve that is to replace the fork with a threaded one, and a threaded headset.

There are other ways to use a quill stem or get a threaded steerer but they all come with cost, difficulty, and various levels of safety concerns.

If you truly just want higher bars there are many threadless stems that will get you there.

There is another thing to suggest as well. Have you considered trying to trade for a size bigger? A larger frame will put the bars higher relative to the saddle. Ive witnesses a dozen or so swaps like that happen.
Jason

[frankie garcia]

I’ve seen a cable hanger with a pinch bolt used as clamp. The just put your quill in the steerer. So the system remains threadless but you can use a quill stem. 

-Frankie

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 13, 2020, at 8:48 AM, Dave Johnston <jdi...@gmail.com> wrote:



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[William deRosset]

Dear Tom,

Before you break out the tooling and cut threads onto the existing steerer (technically possible but not easy to do well, and you'll be cutting the steerer), measure the OD and ID of the steerer to ensure that the OD is 1" (25.4mm) and the ID is 7/8" (22.2mm) . There are different versions of steerer tube for 1" threadless and some are not compatible with being threaded--they are too thin-gauge.

You could have Mark build you a fork for the bike. Or Rivendell would probably order one for you if you ask.

Best Regards,

Will

William M. deRosset

Fort Collins, CO

On Thursday, August 13, 2020 at 6:16:32 AM UTC-6, Tom Goodmann wrote:

This is a great bike, and not so easily found; and with the help of a local friend from this list, the cockpit fits me well at the very limit of spacers.  The steerer was cut too short to my liking by the preDear Tvious owner, and I am frustrated that the stem is not adjustable, a feature I enjoy with quill stems.  I think the frame was made by Mark Nobilette.  Has anyone converted a threadless steerer to threaded?  What do you think?  Appreciative, as ever, of this community.   --Tom in Miami 

[Tom Goodmann]

Agreed, Will; that is the best and safest solution.  Thanks, all. Tom

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[Bill Lindsay]

I think it mainly depends on two things:

1. what exactly do you want to achieve?
2. what is your budget?

On defining the objective, it's not clear to me what you really want

A. do you want to convert to a quill stem specifically?

B. do you just want to convert to an easily adjustible stem because you expect to move it frequently?

C. do you want to get your bars higher and be done with it?  

If it's A then you need to change the existing fork, and buy a headset and a stem and rebuild your cockpit.  If it's B, maybe you just want a longer steertube, since the previous owner cut it shorter than you wanted.  If it's C, maybe you could also get your bars up with a different stem.  

The list of things I imagine are possible include

-ride it the way it is (free!)

-get a custom stem ($250)

-find a different stock stem ($ ??)

-get a fork threaded, buy a new quill stem, and a headset and labor ($500 ?)

-get a new fork, buy a new quill stem, and a headset and labor, and maybe paint ($1000 ?)

-get a longer steertube fork but keep all other parts ($400 ?)

There are probably other choices depending on what the real objective is.  

Bill Lindsay

El Cerrito, CA

[MoVelo]

I vaguely remember some time back this being a topic. My memory tells me there was some concern that the unthreaded 1" tube on the Legolas was too thin to thread. Those with better memories can tell me I am right or wrong. I too have a lovely Legolas with an unthreaded stem and would prefer a threaded version so I can get the bars higher without the awkwardly appearance of a steep sloping threadless stem. 

[Tom Goodmann]

Bill, thank you for an excellent analytical inquiry, a lesson in clear thinking and in asking the right questions.  I prefer the aesthetics of quill stems and the ease they offer for making small adjustments in height, but see that the way toward realizing that objective may be expensive.  I'd be content, then, with a longer steer tube for the threadless stem in order to have some options using spacers. Like MoVelo, currently I ride with the bars at a comfortable height reached only via a sloping threadless stem.  A phone call with Mark Nobilette seems in order.  --Tom

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