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I'm a loudmouth V-brake evangelist, but if you've already gone to the trouble of a long-pull setup, I think you will find cantis a downgrade.
Do you have a particularly flexible fork, BTW?
Daniel M
Berkeley, CA
DM
Daniel M
Berkeley, CA
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Although I have switched to using V-brakes, I agree that cantis work well when set up properly. Has anyone linked this article yet? Good tips:I also agree with Ash that the model of canti can make a big difference.I think technique may sometimes play a part in fork judder or perceived lack of modulation when using V-brakes. Because of the greater mechanical advantage, they require a much lighter touch on the levers than cantis or calipers. When I first switched to Vs, until I learned to lighten up, I nearly sent myself over the bars several times. Now I have no problems. I find the feel of Vs very similar to mechanical disc brakes
I don't see how this general idea is wrong or "misinformation":"I try to make this slotted part of the arm be perpendicular to the brake pad post when the pad contacts the rim. Why? Because this lets the pad hit the rim as squarely as possible. Too far past 90 degrees and the brake loses power (especially true with v-brakes) and when the arm is past 90 degrees, it’s on its way to promoting the pad diving under the rim."And the relative position of the straddle cable is key to making cantis work. So anything that affects that, including washers, is important.
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I don't see how this general idea is wrong or "misinformation":"I try to make this slotted part of the arm be perpendicular to the brake pad post when the pad contacts the rim. Why? Because this lets the pad hit the rim as squarely as possible. Too far past 90 degrees and the brake loses power (especially true with v-brakes) and when the arm is past 90 degrees, it’s on its way to promoting the pad diving under the rim."And the relative position of the straddle cable is key to making cantis work. So anything that affects that, including washers, is important.
On Wednesday, October 21, 2020 at 12:16:49 PM UTC-7 lconley wrote:
I don't see how this general idea is wrong or "misinformation":"I try to make this slotted part of the arm be perpendicular to the brake pad post when the pad contacts the rim. Why? Because this lets the pad hit the rim as squarely as possible. Too far past 90 degrees and the brake loses power (especially true with v-brakes) and when the arm is past 90 degrees, it’s on its way to promoting the pad diving under the rim."
Nick
Maybe we are talking past each other or interpreting that passage differently? To me, the point is not about pad angle, but arm/wire angle. You want a good arm/wire angle at the point where the pad contacts the rim and washers can help you achieve this. For instance, keeping all else equal, if you use fewer washers, the pad starts farther away from the rim, hence the arm needs to swing farther in for the pad to contact the rim, increasing the arm/wire angle and decreasing mechanical advantage. I think this is easiest to visualize with V-brakes, as the wire remains horizontal.
Anyway, I should have just linked Sheldon, whose descriptions and advice are always the best: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-geometry.html
On Wednesday, October 21, 2020 at 2:02:40 PM UTC-7 S wrote:
Maybe we are talking past each other or interpreting that passage differently? To me, the point is not about pad angle, but arm/wire angle. You want a good arm/wire angle at the point where the pad contacts the rim and washers can help you achieve this. For instance, keeping all else equal, if you use fewer washers, the pad starts farther away from the rim, hence the arm needs to swing farther in for the pad to contact the rim, increasing the arm/wire angle and decreasing mechanical advantage. I think this is easiest to visualize with V-brakes, as the wire remains horizontal.
On Wednesday, October 21, 2020 at 1:29:38 PM UTC-7 lconley wrote: