Rivendell Roadbike Curious

[Bicycle Belle Ding Ding!]

I’m starting to wonder about a roadbike. But it has to be a Rivendell roadbike because I’m loyal and all that. Anyway, I don’t know that the Roadini really offers enough of a change for me. I have no idea what is going on with the Gallup. Then there’s the Roadeo - that one looks great but there’s a 2 year wait, unless I can find one used. Which would be ideal. 

Who rides their Rivbike in club rides and what do you ride? Who has a Roadeo that never gets ridden and wants to sell it? I don’t even know what size I’d be but I’m an 81 PBH. Must I ride drop bars? I never have before. I know nothing about any of this. Clearly.

Note: I still like my raspberry Platypus for club riding but it does take a toll on me in wind. I recently got a shorter-height, longer-reach stem which marginally helped, but our high spring winds are taking it out of me. I did a club ride yesterday with my women’s group and my heart rate was in the 170s the whole 26.3 miles. It was brutal. Everyone else agreed it was a hard ride, but I felt like it was harder on me than them, and I’m the youngest and probably the most fit. 

Leah

[Garth]

Hooray for you Leah ! :-)

I think a level top tube would suit you better in the long run as given a good fit, you'll be able to have a good starting point for bar height. Not too high, not too low. You're obliviously fit and flexible, so for road riding use that to your advantage, so to speak. Less air resistance, which is what you're running into, literally. From experience,  sloping TT's are fine if you want to the bars quite high, but if you want them at a more saddle level or below you may not be able to go low enough. It depends on the frame of course.

A Homer before the TT's were sloped would also work as road bike in addition to the Roadeo. They were technically 1.5 degrees, not enough to care about given a proper fit.  Also Ramboullett frames would work.

You have such a good level of fitness and sensibilities that you'll be fine, it'll work out as it comes.

[Ryan]

Would be ideal if you could find a Roadini in your size and try it out....I think it is a significant change even if it's not eye-poppingly lighter than the Platypii and a good place to start if it has to be a Rivendell. You'll still get the benefits of the design. If it turns out to be your cup of tea, you could ride it while you get in line for that lighter  Roadeo and then sell the Roadini off. 

Yes, I did ride my Rivendell Road on longer  club rides where other bikes would have put me at more of a disadvantage. My 82.5 PBH put me on a 56 frame when I ordered mine in 2000. At that time I had an Italian Rossin I bought in 1987, full vintage Campagnolo, but I wanted something a little more chill; the Rossin felt like a handful, especially if I was tired.  It was fast and fun, until it wasn't anymore. I sold that Rossin to a neighbor and didn't lose a wink of sleep about selling it.The Riv Road was well worth the wait with the dreamy ride we all know and love.  My Rivendells,  I'm still hanging onto, for now. Call me a hoarder, but not ready to get rid of them yet. Not even sure I'd find a market for them up here in Winnipeg and I would certainly get a lot less than what I paid for them. 

Why am I not surprised that you'd start thinking about a Rivendell road bike ? 

[Bill Lindsay]

Leah

My previous Roadeo was set up as a straight-ahead stripped down road bike, and I would have used that anyplace anybody rides a road bike.  After selling that, and while I was waiting for my new pink Roadeo, I used my Black Mountain Road in that stripped down road bike slot, and that bike was the deal of the century, IMO.  The RoadeoRosa revealed itself to be more than just a stripped down road bike: It has insisted to become my 700c randonneuse.  

Anyway, I did a very fast build on a Leo Roadini, last batch, and my best-ever brevet time was on that bike.  So I think it's doable.  The newer batch with its long reach brakes feels less "roadie".  

I can sympathize with the desire to run a Riv, but I'd also recommend casting a wider net, because smaller frame sized used road bikes can be had at a really good price.  Maybe if you start trolling Michigan craigslist and the next time I'm out in Wayne County for work I can come be your personal shopper.  :)

Anything that can be set up with drop bars can probably also be set up with an albastache build, which may ease you in.  Also, having a placeholder road bike could free you up to put a deposit on a Roadeo and then you'll have both!  

Do let me know if you want more advice

Bill Lindsay

El Cerrito, CA

[George Schick]

Leah - do you know your PBH or standover height or anything else that might contribute to your being able to ride a regular "road bike" with a more or less level top tube?  That would help our giving an answer.  Also, do you know what your pedal-to-saddle measurement is?  That would be helpful as well.

[Ryan]

There ya go Leah!...Put yourself in Bill's more-than-capable hands and you won't go wrong!

[Ryan]

81 PBH was mentioned

[George Schick]

Ryan - sorry.  I don't always see things as clearly with my aged ready-for-cataract surgery eyeballs.  Nevertheless, it bears repeating.

[Johnny Alien]

I doubt the Roadeo is a TON lighter than a Roadini. I think the weight details would be in the build more than anything else. As far as bars are concerned drops are fun on a road bike but not required. My recommendation for a non-drop road setup would be the Albastache bars which are IMO the best road bars out there.

[George Schick]

Actually, what I was more interested in was her stand over height (SOH).  Riding a regular road frame bike would require whether or not one could "stand over" the bike's top tube without discomfort.  Riv gives the specifics for various past models for this measurement.

[Ryan]

Sorry @George, I did not mean to come off as rude. The 81 PBH detail just stood out because I seem to recall Leah is around my own height of 5'6''-5'7'' ...but vastly younger (I'm 71) and vastly fitter , of course. So I had to go to my own Riv stud books to see what my PBH was...shortish torso, longer legs and see why Grant put me on a 56 frame. The Rossin for comparison was 53 or 54 and my allrounder was 54. GP would size up for a road frame, as I recall

[George Schick]

No problem.  But the thing is that I have a bike(s) that I could let her ride to see if she could adapt to a "road bike" frame.  And I "think" I have ones closed to that dimension that I would be happy to let her test ride to see if they'd work.

[Brian Turner]

I would go with a Roadini, with maybe a Homer or Sam as a second option.

On Apr 20, 2024, at 5:42 PM, George Schick <bhi...@gmail.com> wrote:

No problem.  But the thing is that I have a bike(s) that I could let her ride to see if she could adapt to a "road bike" frame.  And I "think" I have ones closed to that dimension that I would be happy to let her test ride to see if they'd work.

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[Jim M.]

I think the Roadeo is the raciest road bike Riv has made. I've seen one 56cm that was built up to 18.5 lbs with pedals. But if you're looking beyond the weight weenie category, there are lots of other options. Rambouillet, Redwood, and Romulus come to mind. And if you're not fixed on 700 wheels, you've got the Hilsen, Saluki, and Bleriot. I had a road wheelset for my Legolas, which I used for club rides and randonneuring. I wouldn't hesitate to put drop bars on my Bleriot and turn it into a randonneur too. And how could I forget the Hillborne? Also very roadable. There's a 51 dropbar Homer on the web special page https://www.rivbike.com/products/51cm-homer-dark-gold-antonios-dropbar-pick if that's your size.

jim m

walnut creek ca

On Saturday, April 20, 2024 at 12:33:50 PM UTC-7 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:

[Christian B-H]

Leah I was psyched to see this post because you were the #1 influence on me to get a Platypus (besides Lance who sold it to me! Thanks, Lance!). Besides the Platy, which is for around town and gravel and kid-hauling, I also ride my father-in-laws 1990-something Merlin road bike in occasional club rides and races. I love the Platy for all the already mentioned reasons in this Bunch, and love the snappy, fast, titanium Merlin, but always wish the fork was a bit heavier (and not carbon) and that the chainstays were a hair longer (and didn’t limit the rear tire to 25mm). 

I almost jumped on a used Roadeo in my size a month or so ago and am extremely Roadini curious. I wonder if you say the roadini “doesn’t offer enough of a change” for you because you think it’s not different enough from the Platy? I would think the Roadini is closer to the Roadeo or a Rambouillet than the Gallop will be. From the August 2023 blahg, the Gallop looks like a mix between a Platy and a Roadini. 

when I see that Homer Jim shared in your size as a web special my first thought was, “THAT’S IT!,” but I think you should give a ”real” “road bike” a shot rather than a “country bike” like a Sam or a Homer, since your Platy’s are in that category. 

Thanks for your contributions Leah and have fun finding your next “Save me from the wind on club rides!” Bike! 

Christian

Boulder, CO

PS: Gallop pics in this blagh:

https://www.rivbike.com/blogs/grant-petersens-blog/august?_pos=11&_sid=e1163b89a&_ss=r

[Johnny Alien]

Probably a bit of a wait for a Gallop but the slightly lower top tube could give it an edge over standard road frames. I have the swoopy prototype and if it rides the same people are going to love it.

[Calvin Yolo]

I have a 55cm Roadeo with an 83 PBH. Mark said I could have gone with a 56, too, but I landed with a comfortable set up using a 7cm stem and drops that have a 78mm reach. I usually consider a 7cm stem a little on the short side for a road bike, but I have shorter than average arms for my height. I've had road bikes in the past with steeper angles and lower bars but my Roadeo feels just as fast and more comfortable. You also don't need to use drop bars on your Roadeo if you don't want to. I've used flat SimWorks bars with Paul thumbies for a while and Rich also has a Roadeo that doesn't use drops. When it comes to using the bike for club riding, I think a Roadini will feel similar to the Roadeo, but both of those will feel more road-ish than the other models.

Lastly, if you decide to opt for a Roadeo, you can't go wrong by calling or sending an email to Mark for his advice.

On Saturday, April 20, 2024 at 12:33:50 PM UTC-7 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:

[Leah Peterson]

Hang onto those Rivs, Ryan! And if you do sell them, my PBH is 81 😉

You may not be surprised but *I* am surprised I’m even thinking about a road bike. I cannot imagine it. I’m all Platypus all the time over here. I have one yet in the works! A 50, which is short enough I can get it on Amtrak. Going to be wild…pics to prove it…

On Apr 20, 2024, at 4:47 PM, Ryan <ryte...@mts.net> wrote:

Would be ideal if you could find a Roadini in your size and try it out....I think it is a significant change even if it's not eye-poppingly lighter than the Platypii and a good place to start if it has to be a Rivendell. You'll still get the benefits of the design. If it turns out to be your cup of tea, you could ride it while you get in line for that lighter  Roadeo and then sell the Roadini off. 

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[Leah Peterson]

Bill, I think I would love an albastache build. I ALSO like the idea of you being my personal shopper. I think I’m pretty biased to staying with Riv; I can’t be hurting Grant’s feelings, you know. But I love this Michigan connection! If we did get a road bike and you got all kinds of say-so in the build then you would for sure have to say APPROVE when I post it on the List. Very gratifying, indeed.

On Apr 20, 2024, at 4:52 PM, Bill Lindsay <tape...@gmail.com> wrote:

Leah

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[Leah Peterson]

Yes, George, 81cm , and here’s where I have to put a plug in for the cataract surgery. I prep those patients and they are my favorite surgeries because they are SO EASY and the results SO immediate that if you have been putting it off, run, don’t walk to the ophthalmologist. An IV is not required, you don’t even get undressed, there is no pain, it is 15 minutes and BOOM, you’re done.

Ok, back to bikes…

On Apr 20, 2024, at 5:12 PM, George Schick <bhi...@gmail.com> wrote:

Ryan - sorry.  I don't always see things as clearly with my aged ready-for-cataract surgery eyeballs.  Nevertheless, it bears repeating.

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[Leah Peterson]

No idea what my stand over height is, nor do I know how to find out

On Apr 20, 2024, at 5:18 PM, George Schick <bhi...@gmail.com> wrote:

Actually, what I was more interested in was her stand over height (SOH).  Riding a regular road frame bike would require whether or not one could "stand over" the bike's top tube without discomfort.  Riv gives the specifics for various past models for this measurement.

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[Leah Peterson]

Christian! Yes, I well remember you and I’m so happy you got that Platypus. Still my favorite bike of all time. Gosh, I would have loved your opinion had you gotten the Roadeo. 

You asked why I wasn’t keen on the Roadini. I read a couple of reviews online that didn’t give it the most favorable reviews. And some of the descriptions I read (of course the exact words escape me as this was all hastily done early today) made it sound like kind of an all-rounder or something. Like it wasn’t painted as a pure roadbike but more of a bike that was roadish but had town and country capabilities. If the Roadini owners think I got this wrong and want to chime in, wonderful; I’d like to hear it. And I think you would, too. And you’re exactly right about the Homer; I have two RivSisters who LOVE their Homers and rightly so. But I want to look at more of a road bike instead of the country bike. 

Obviously, I have much to learn.

On Apr 20, 2024, at 7:23 PM, Christian B-H <bei...@gmail.com> wrote:

Leah I was psyched to see this post because you were the #1 influence on me to get a Platypus (besides Lance who sold it to me! Thanks, Lance!). Besides the Platy, which is for around town and gravel and kid-hauling, I also ride my father-in-laws 1990-something Merlin road bike in occasional club rides and races. I love the Platy for all the already mentioned reasons in this Bunch, and love the snappy, fast, titanium Merlin, but always wish the fork was a bit heavier (and not carbon) and that the chainstays were a hair longer (and didn’t limit the rear tire to 25mm). 

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[Bicycle Belle Ding Ding!]

Garth, I have never thought about level or sloping top tubes other than I just like the mixte design. I did not know this mattered in road biking, huh….

[Bill Lindsay]

Leah

Here's an exceptionally good value on an exceedingly solid road bike that could hold you over while you wait for the perfect Rivendell, -AND/OR- to act as a  test platform for the unknown parts of a potential build concept.  This is the kind of value I'd try to sniff out for you:

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/bik/d/san-francisco-52cm-trek-usa-purple/7721534636.html

I don't know for sure it's the right size but I do know I'm 5'10" and would ride the 58 in that model.  

BL

[Leah Peterson]

Would they love it as a road bike? Or is it kind of all-purpose? Thanks!

On Apr 20, 2024, at 7:56 PM, Johnny Alien <johnny....@gmail.com> wrote:

Probably a bit of a wait for a Gallop but the slightly lower top tube could give it an edge over standard road frames. I have the swoopy prototype and if it rides the same people are going to love it.

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[Sally Bidleman]

Hi Leah,

I have nothing technical to add, per usual; BUT I do have a "new" 30-year-old custom Erickson road bike I bought recently. (My husband and I share a Clem and a Platypus also.)

The Erickson happened to fit me perfectly, is steel and stable, but very light and it moves like the wind! It's pure art in form and function.

I ride the Platypus most since it goes over everything easily and smoothly and is so comfortable...and when my husband and I ride together, we can switch off Rivs mid-ride for fun! But I am so thankful I can have both the road bike and the Riv bike. 

I think you'd love the experience of having a road bike, Riv or otherwise! 

Best to you!

Sally 

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[Ryan]

I think Bill's onto something. I've never owned a Trek, but I did (still have it, in fact) own a T600 or 700 Cannondale I bought in 1988 for the ridiculously low price of ~$600 CAD. It was a bit of an oddball with 271/4 wheel size instead of 700c and came with a very decent component spec; Deore derailleurs and triple crank , 600 hubs and brakes, nitto,TTT bars...really a  very  nice  bike. Maybe because it was red...but great touring bike (yes,  we do have some hills in Manitoba) and really fun unloaded...kind of a sport-touring vibe. In fact, for most road riding; I found it way more comfortable than my Rossin. I gave it to my late partner, who put moustache bars on it...and BTW if drops don't float your boat , you might like moustache/albastache bars. 

$325 is a small price to pay for an experiment. I do rather like that color. I know Trek is like the evil empire, but man, they did make some nice bikes in the 80s and 90s. OTOH...if Bill is willing to spend time with you to help you find something, you should definitely take him up on it because he knows what he's talking about. 

Next priority is you'll have to build an extension on your garage to keep the fleet safe and dry :)

BTW...can't wait to see the purple platy once you have it all built up.

[Ryan]

@Sally...custom Erickson...that's a nice find, too!

[Stephen]

Hey Leah,

We got to meet briefly at the Philly bike expo, so nice to meet you in person! 

I'm excited to hear you are getting more road bike curious, I think road focused bikes can be a lot of fun to ride and still really comfortable if you get set up correctly. I grew up riding drop bar road bikes with my mom and even though I love riding my swept back handlebar rivendells, I also really enjoy getting out for a drop bar ride on some country roads. Its fun to have really different bikes, and I think different style bikes impart their intention/personality on the way you ride and its fun sometimes to end up on a bike that encourages you to push or ride a bit faster. 

Currently my road bike is a rivendell rambouillet. If a used one pops up in your size I think it would fit your ticket as a rivendell road bike. I also think one of the slightly older roadini's that take mid reach caliper brakes would be an excellent option (the roadini's have my favorite ever riv head badge). If you've mainly been riding your platypi's and clems, I think the roadini would be quite different enough. Mid reach brakes let you max out at a 38 tire width, but I recommend the 32/33 zone. I think its perfect for long road rides as long as you aren't going through pothole city. 

Don't be too afraid to try a non riv, there are some really great road bikes out there.

As for handlebars, I really recommend giving drop bars a chance. The nitto noodles work really nicely for me. It might take some trial and error to figure out whats comfortable for you, and it might take you a little time to acclimate to them. Being in a more forward position changes how you use your muscles to pedal slightly, so ease into the miles and start with short rides. Once you adjust it really does help with the windy days.

For fun and maybe inspiration here's a pic of my ram from a ride to jacob riis beach last year:

Best,

Stephen

[Josiah Anderson]

Hi Leah,

I'm also excited to hear about your journey towards a road bike; you probably don't know it but your writing on this list was one of my main influences towards ending up with a Riv. Drop bars and pavement are very familiar, comfortable territory for me, and – like others have said here – I still enjoy that type of riding at times.

You're probably already familiar with him, but if not, I'd recommend checking out some of Jan Heine's work – Bicycle Quarterly, The All-Road Bike Revolution, his blog, etc. Bicycle Quarterly was my point of departure from "mainstream" bike culture, and I came around to appreciating Riv a bit later and now enjoy both approaches for different rides. Jan is much more focused on speed than Grant is, but in what feels to me like a healthy way. This is an old blog post that I think may be worth a read, as it's an articulation of the same sort of perspective you seem to be arriving at: https://www.renehersecycles.com/riding-fast-is-fun/. Jan also wrote somewhere (can't find it right now) about how he and Grant are good friends, and he wanted to make it clear he's not dissing Riv by promoting what he likes.

I currently have two of what I'd call "really nice" bikes, a Gus Boots-Willsen and a Crust Lightning Bolt (alongside moderately nice bikes like a Bridgestone MB-3 and a dumpster-find Bianchi Volpe). The Gus is "full-Riv" – friction shifting, Carradice saddlebag, weird bar wrap, etc – and the Crust is full Bicycle Quarterly, with 42mm extralight tires, low-trail geometry, Gilles Berthoud handlebar bag, and all that. (Jan is not affiliated with Crust, but Crust designed the Lightning Bolt with his preferences in mind). The two bikes are a perfect combination for my current riding: there is enough crossover that both work great for doubletrack rides, and the Gus is ideal for riding singletrack while the Crust excels at long, fast road and gravel rides. Rivendell doesn't make randonneur bikes like my Crust, as it sounds to me like they don't like the lighter-gauge tubing and the handling optimized for drop bars and moderate front loads, but Grant has written (quoting from memory, so hopefully I'm pretty close here) that he's glad companies like Crust exist and do different stuff from Riv. I don't feel like riding my Crust is an insult to Rivendell, just an expression of the fact that my riding conditions are a bit different from theirs, though I totally get it if that's how it feels to you.

I've never ridden a Roadeo or Roadini, but I've ridden a LOT of road race and "sport-touring" bikes from the 1960s through 2000s, many of which (like early 80s Trek sport tourers, one of my main rides for a long time) have a lot of similarities to the Roadeo. I prefer my Crust for several reasons: it's designed for bigger tires, which when they're René Herse Extralights are just as fast as 23mm tubulars and far more versatile; it can carry a big handlebar bag for long rides without compromising handling at all; and it feels more "alternative" when showing up to group rides, a feeling we're all used to with Rivendells - but it's still just as fast as the carbon bikes, unlike my Gus. And the biggest factor is that it's made of superlight steel tubing, which I like not for the weight savings (less than a water bottle) but for the flex characteristics – it flexes with each pedal stroke and feeds it back into the drivetrain, taking away the pushing-against-a-brick-wall feeling of hammering up a hill on a stiff bike. Jan calls this "planing," and it's pretty controversial, and others call it a lively frame, a somewhat less controversial term. My personal experience says it works – take that however you want. I do not believe the Roadini would "plane" or be particularly "lively," based on what I've heard, and the slightly lighter Roadeo might or might not depending on how much power you're putting down.

A classic road bike like the Roadeo is also an aesthetic choice, though, not just a practical one, and if that's the sort of bike you want, I don't want to be the one to argue against that! Those sorts of bikes are very well-proven for many use cases, and fast-paced, shortish (~30 mile) group rides are certainly one of those.

Basically what I'm hoping to say here is that "road bike" can mean many things, and that Jan Heine's writing has been a huge positive influence on my riding and maybe could be for you too. Best of luck with the process of contemplation and decision!

Josiah Anderson

Missoula MT

Le sam. 20 avr. 2024 à 13:33, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! <jonasa...@gmail.com> a écrit :

I’m starting to wonder about a roadbike. But it has to be a Rivendell roadbike because I’m loyal and all that. Anyway, I don’t know that the Roadini really offers enough of a change for me. I have no idea what is going on with the Gallup. Then there’s the Roadeo - that one looks great but there’s a 2 year wait, unless I can find one used. Which would be ideal. 

Who rides their Rivbike in club rides and what do you ride? Who has a Roadeo that never gets ridden and wants to sell it? I don’t even know what size I’d be but I’m an 81 PBH. Must I ride drop bars? I never have before. I know nothing about any of this. Clearly.

Note: I still like my raspberry Platypus for club riding but it does take a toll on me in wind. I recently got a shorter-height, longer-reach stem which marginally helped, but our high spring winds are taking it out of me. I did a club ride yesterday with my women’s group and my heart rate was in the 170s the whole 26.3 miles. It was brutal. Everyone else agreed it was a hard ride, but I felt like it was harder on me than them, and I’m the youngest and probably the most fit. 

Leah

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[David Hays]

Good morning Leah,

I’m not sure where I read it but apparently Grant had at one point been a fan of Mercians.

A few years after I bought and built up my 650B Homer I found a used Mercian KOM on Craigslist. I’ve since picked up another off the list and had one purpose built for me. Very comfortable and fast. Some thing to consider.

Cheers,

David 

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[Guy LeVan]

Hi Leah!

I think you would dig a Crust Canti-Lightning Bolt as a complementary addition to your wonderful stable of Rivs - not only for the ride quality, but you can get a cool Lilac (with pink graphics) or Light Sea Green frame in your size now.  I own this bike, and it is light, quick, and fun to ride, and can easily accommodate up to a 650B x 48 tire.  But wait there’s more….in older Riv road bike style, the Canti-Bolts have flat top tubes, threaded headsets, and a gorgeous curved fork.  This is a low-trail Rando bike for sure - even the 650B wheels, etc.  This is a fun bike!  I’m a Riv head for sure, but I really enjoy a long faster road ride on the Crust every now and then.  

Crustbikes.com

Good luck in your search,

Guy

[Johnny Alien]

- "Would they love it as a road bike? Or is it kind of all-purpose? Thanks!"

Rivendell makes stuff to be pretty flexible so even the Roadeo "could" be built out to be kind of all-purpose but the geometry and intent of the Gallop is to be a road frame that replaces the Roadini. My prototype is pretty light and very lively. I assume the production ones will be as well because the geometry should be the same it just has a straight bar vs a swoop. I think while its not a step through the angled bar will allow it to be more flexible with fitting.

[Mathias Steiner]

Hi Leah,

Your thread has generated a remarkable amount of discussion.

Before I get wordy: you said you didn't know what your 'standover' height was... it's your PBH minus whatever margin you're comfortable with. I've ridden bikes where that margin was zero, and didn't worry about it, but I'd go for around an inch of clearance if I started from scratch. Taller frames make it easier to get the bars to saddle height without looking goofy, so somethimes a cm is fine, too.

I'm chiming in because I've been on a similar bent for some years now, where every year I grab a bike or frame, fit it up to suit me, and then ride it throughout the season, looking for light & fast.

I would second (third?) Bill's suggestion to look for a used road bike to figure out what you like. Nothing wrong with aluminum, either, though steel is always classy. If steel, stick with the good stuff, Reynolds 531 or Columbus SL/SLX or Tange #1 or ...

Riding drop bars takes getting used to, but I want nothing else for long days in the saddle. Three separate hand positions on top, leading to the three levels of 'bent over' is good for the back, plus you can hit the drops to get out of the wind somewhat.

Before you get locked in on a specific type or model, I would pick a few criteria first: fit, meaning how bent over do you want to be, and where do you want the saddle in relation to he crank? Next, tires. I'm not far from you in Michigan, and I really like tires that are 30+ mm for our crappy roads. I would not ride 23s, though 28s are ok on pavement, if marginal for light dirt. Weight is a distant third consideration; lighter is better, but other than avoiding boat anchors, I wouldn't worry too much about it. No gas pipe, no full-on tourers.

I'm a touring bike guy, but my recent experience includes a '97 Cannondale R200 (26 mm tires, measured), a 1987 ST600 (30 mm), and a 1981 Motobécane Grand Touring (30 mm). The R200 was the lightest, and I liked riding it despite the reputed twitchy/criterium geometry, but the  ST somehow seems the most eager of all the bikes I've tried. Lightweight and stiff frame, 'sport touring' geometry, traditional steel fork, and the 700x32 Conti GP5000 tires are comfortable and fast and have given me no flats in a few thousand miles of riding. The Moto is fun but seems a little slower; I think it's the tires -- Pasela 27x1 1/4 vs. the Continentals.

Once you know what you like, you can then properly size whatever Rivendell you would like for fast road rides. Given the expense, you wouldn't want to guess and do it twice.

My touring bikes are super stiff, as they should be, and while I like riding them, the lively feel of a road bike makes for a different experience. I have nothing measured, and I have a hard time describing it, or even understanding it. It's not like my Cannondale ST frame isn't stiff; maybe it's the fork on the ST that gives it its ride, but a lot of people prize them. Alu frames with steel forks were common around 1990, and are a good choice. Get thee to bikeforums.net, and you'll find any number of models described -- and for sale -- in the classic & vintage forums.

I'm in the process of building 1978 Trek 710 as this year's bike. I have high hopes.

cheers -mathias

[Piaw Na]

I haven't seen the Gallop's geometry,. Can you post it?

As for Leah's original question, my wife rode a Cheviot but after she rode my son's Roadini to work a few weeks she decided that she really liked the Roadini better.

We're still vainly hunting for a 50cm Roadini, but the other bikes I'm considering are the Ritchey Logic Road (max 30mm tires, short chainstays), the Crust Malochio (mismatched brakes are putting me off but what's worse is that it has 650b wheels in her sizes which limits choice of fast tires), and the Soma Pescadero (compromised handling geometry compared with the Roadini). We'll probably have to decide this summer as to whether to wait for the Roadini or go for a Gallop. One more option is the R&E Cycles Rainier. All of these bikes would be bikes I would buy frame only because the Bay Area has specific riding needs that default drivetrains made for flat country are worthless for.

[Mathias Steiner]

Forgot to say:
If there's a co-op nearby, you'll find kindred spirits and a likely a few bicycles to try. Not a bad place to start the search for something used.

[Andrew Joseph]

Johnny, 

Any comparison of your Gallop proto to the Roadini that I may have missed? If not, could you give us your impressions?  New here…

Roman mentioned the Gallop might land somewhere between the Homer and the Roadini.  

V/R,

Drew

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 20, 2024, at 6:56 PM, Johnny Alien <johnny....@gmail.com> wrote:

Probably a bit of a wait for a Gallop but the slightly lower top tube could give it an edge over standard road frames. I have the swoopy prototype and if it rides the same people are going to love it.

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[Jay Lonner]

Interestingly I just went through a similar process, and considered many of the bikes already mentioned (Roadini, Lightning Bolt, Pescadero). I wound up buying a Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross. It just arrived last week and I’m gathering parts for the build. The plan is drop bars, SRAM Eagle 1x12 drivetrain, RH Snoqualmie Pass tires with the new RH TPU tubes (so I’m following that thread with interest too). 

What sold me on the Monstercross are the canti studs (I don’t care for centerpull brakes) and brazeons for a rando rack. BB is a little higher than comparable bikes, which isn’t surprising for bike with cyclocross DNA, but I’m hoping it will work out for more spirited road rides while still able to handle non-technical singletrack. 

But then I read Diana H.’s epic bikepacking trip reports on her Platypus and it makes me think that I’m probably overthinking things (I’m prone to that) and that Lance was right — it’s not about the bike. But it is fun to experiment!

Jay Lonner

Bellingham, WA

Sent from my Atari 400

On Apr 21, 2024, at 8:57 AM, Mathias Steiner <mathiass...@gmail.com> wrote:

Forgot to say:

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[Bernard Duhon]

Early trek Aluminum bikes were good.

There is nothing as durable as an Aluminum bike paint job.  They were well made & last

 

However, don’t confuse the aluminum bike quality with those of Trek’s early steel bikes.   

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[Leah Peterson]

I am headed out to ride but I want to pop on here because I think it’s funny - can we do funny on here? - that I said I was “roadbike curious” and my texts, DMs, email all blew up. BUY THIS ONE! WHAT ABOUT THIS? Web special! eBay link! 

Bike people are the best and the fun-est people.

I am, right now, leaning toward a Gallup bike but will keep reading and learning. And right now, I’m heading out to do Tabatas training. I had to look it up. Promises to be the most miserable 4 minutes of my day. You all carry on. I’ll be back later!

Thanks for being so great.

Leah

On Apr 21, 2024, at 1:10 PM, Andrew Joseph <drew.jo...@gmail.com> wrote:

Johnny, 

Any comparison of your Gallop proto to the Roadini that I may have missed? If not, could you give us your impressions?  New here…

Roman mentioned the Gallop might land somewhere between the Homer and the Roadini.  

V/R,

Drew

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[Ted Durant]

On Sunday, April 21, 2024 at 1:12:20 PM UTC-5 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:

I am, right now, leaning toward a Gallup bike but will keep reading and learning. And right now, I’m heading out to do Tabatas training. I had to look it up. Promises to be the most miserable 4 minutes of my day.

Wow, first we hear you are road bike curious, now you are doing tabata workouts. Leah is going super hard core on us.

My 2 cents worth ... "road bike", as opposed to what you currently ride and love, is first and foremost about riding position. FWIW, my recommendation is to skip past Albastache and Mustache and go straight to drop bars. Start with them relatively high and close, so when your hands are on the tops you feel like your back is relaxed and comfy. Bernard Hinault, I think, said you should feel like you're playing piano on the tops. You then have the curves on top, where your hands are a bit wider apart and slightly forward, and your back should still be comfy. Then you go forward to the brake hoods. Now you should feel like you're more forward than you would be on your current bikes. But, if you're riding at a hard enough effort (we're not talking super hard here), the force on the pedals should be carrying enough of your weight that you're not having to hold yourself up on your hands. Next you go below the brake hoods to the farthest forward part of the drops. This is the speedy aero position. You won't have a low, flat back here until you've lowered your stem/bars quite a bit. But you should have a flat back and you should be putting a fair amount of force into the pedals. Finally, there are the flat parts of the drops, with your hands back a bit closer to you, which are a "cruising" location for me (and right next to my bar end shifters), low enough to be efficient but not fully stretched out. I've recently read comments from "racers" that if you spend any amount of time down there your bars are too high. Well, my bars are certainly too high by their standards, but mine are set up for me to be comfortable in every spot. Very important: in EVERY position you should not be gripping the bar or brake hood tightly, you should have a very loose grip and not be bearing too much weight there. I typically am very slightly pulling up on the brake hoods or drops to counteract the pedaling force of the opposite leg. Also, you should ALWAYS have at least a slight bend in your elbows in every position. If you are locking your elbows something is wrong with the position and you're doing bad things to your wrist and shoulders and neck.

General rule of thumb for starting out, have the tops of the bars maybe an inch above saddle height or, if you're already pretty flexible in the heaps and low back, level with the saddle. Put the back of an elbow at the front of the saddle and stretch your finger tips toward the handlebars. They should just touch the back of the handlebars at the stem. Maybe a little closer if you're tight, a little farther if you're flexible. Somebody recommended Noodle bars, which I heartily endorse, as that's what I have on most of my bikes. I like them because 1) the curves are generous 2) there's a little rise in the top curve, making them very comfy in that area) and 3) there's a fair amount of reach and drop, so you have a good range of positions. That last part is key for me on long rides. Sometimes I'm riding hard and need the long and low positions. Sometimes I'm taking it easy and need the high and near positions. 

I won't opine much on "which bike", because once you figure out your fit criteria, any bike that allows you to have that position will work fine. I have my Sam Hillbornes set up almost identically to my custom Waterford ST and Rivendell Road, except on the Riv Road the handlebars are a bit farther away and lower. 

Ted Durant

Milwaukee WI USA

[george schick]

What Ted says, exactly. I began “serious” biking over 50 years ago on a road bike with drop bars and never looked back. That’s not to say that there isn’t merit to other kinds of bars and more upright riding positions, but the “drop” road bar offers those various hand positions. Once you adapt to them it’s hard to go back.

Ad 

[Patrick Moore]

This is going to be a fun thread. Please don't take a great volume of advice as condescending; I think that this thread will elicit a very large amount of love for road bikes as a distinct genus of bicycle.

I think you very particularly will benefit a great deal from the right road bike and that once you get things basically sorted you will find that you enjoy it immensely for the kind of riding you describe. There is a perfection of fit and feel and a real pleasure in riding a well set up traditional road bike -- I don't mean racing bike -- that you don't find with other combinations of frame, saddle, bar, and their relative positions. Really, this sort of setup on the right sort of frame is more comfortable, more natural, more pleasant for energetic riding than other setups; at least, I've always found it so, and there's a reason why the traditional road bike was developed so quickly after the chain-driven safety was invented and why it has remained largely the same for going on for 150 years.

Note: I don't say that everyone who rides energetically should have a road bike, but everyone who does so and can try ought at least to give one a try. Again, there is an efficiency and comfort -- really, a "fit" like that of a custom suit or perfect tool -- offered by an intelligently spec'd and set up road bike that, you don't -- or at least, I don't, -- get with any other sort of bike.

Me, based on my experience, I'd certainly start by keeping my eye out for a used Roadeo or Riv Road or LongLow or Ram or Heron. But for the final and perfect version, I'd not close my mind a priori to other makes. I am guessing, but I would not be surprised if, after your usual rapid learning cycle, this time with a road bike, you end up with a custom. My favorite bike of all time out of several scores is a custom Riv Road, but I've owned 2 other Riv Road customs plus a Ram (and the Sam) not to mention many other road bikes, and I've sold them all on to finally get what for me is belated perfection in the 2 Matthews customs  -- tho' these used the Rivs as general design templates.

I rode the gofast Riv fixie road bike to and from church today with the usual annoying NE winds while inbound N and E and the usual SW winds on return N and W. For the umpteen millionth time I remarked to myself at how pleasant it was to be able to drop "intuitively" into the hooks when turning into a wind, or to grab the long (Maes Parallel) ramps when pushing, butt-back and elbows bent, up an incline, or sitting up and holding the flats or the flat/ramp transition and spinning when the wind became a tailwind. 

I've certainly passed my speed demon days, but there remains a very distinct pleasure in riding energetically -- for me, particularly on hills and against winds -- on the perfectly set up road bike, and I have enough experience to know that I would not enjoy this nearly as much on anything else.

Bon chance!

On Sat, Apr 20, 2024 at 1:33 PM Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! <jonasa...@gmail.com> wrote:

I’m starting to wonder about a roadbike. But it has to be a Rivendell roadbike because I’m loyal and all that. Anyway, I don’t know that the Roadini really offers enough of a change for me. I have no idea what is going on with the Gallup. Then there’s the Roadeo - that one looks great but there’s a 2 year wait, unless I can find one used. Which would be ideal. 

Who rides their Rivbike in club rides and what do you ride? Who has a Roadeo that never gets ridden and wants to sell it? I don’t even know what size I’d be but I’m an 81 PBH. Must I ride drop bars? I never have before. I know nothing about any of this. Clearly.

Note: I still like my raspberry Platypus for club riding but it does take a toll on me in wind. I recently got a shorter-height, longer-reach stem which marginally helped, but our high spring winds are taking it out of me. I did a club ride yesterday with my women’s group and my heart rate was in the 170s the whole 26.3 miles. It was brutal. Everyone else agreed it was a hard ride, but I felt like it was harder on me than them, and I’m the youngest and probably the most fit. 

Leah

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I endowed thy purposes with words that made them known.

[Patrick Moore]

I generally look up to Garth's advice, but I'll contradict him here: the point is not level or sloping top tube but saddle to bar relationship. My "ideal" level tt/fist of sp size is 60X56 c-c but the most perfectest fit of all is on that too-much described '99 Riv custom that has a 57 c-c st, upsloping 57 cm tt with modestly extended ht, since this lets me get the saddle in the right place and then wrt to the saddle, get the bar in the right place. I've gotten near-perfect drop bar setups on miniscule 46 cm frames with massive 58+ cm tts (mtb frames) tho' 46 and 58 are hardly ideal.

Second, yes, less air resistance is a great benefit of a lower and drop bar, but there is another that IME is equally great, that you bring into play additional muscles when you bend over. I find this every time I "slip" into the hooks when turning into a headwind or slide way back on the saddle when reaching an incline.

[Leah Peterson]

I promise not to be offended by a great wave of advice coming my way here - I have asked for it and you all have kindly delivered. 

Ok, ok….I really will consider drop bars. But I do wonder…everyone says they offer so many hand positions; but I only see people with their hands on the hoods. Are riders really utilizing different hand positions? 

Also, I saw a pic of an albastache with brake levers in the middle of the bar. Would this mimic the freedom of hand position changes a drop bar offers? 

I practiced tonight on my ride by grabbing the front of my Billie bars. It felt nice to be stretched out like that, but with no access to brakes or shifters from there I didn’t like to stay long. Unnerving.

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 21, 2024, at 4:54 PM, Patrick Moore <bert...@gmail.com> wrote:



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[Patrick Moore]

+ 1 for road bikes and cataract surgery.

Patrick Moore, who has (has had?) both and now rides without glasses or contacts with implanted plastic lenses.

On Sat, Apr 20, 2024 at 7:15 PM Leah Peterson <jonasa...@gmail.com> wrote:

Yes, George, 81cm , and here’s where I have to put a plug in for the cataract surgery. I prep those patients and they are my favorite surgeries because they are SO EASY and the results SO immediate that if you have been putting it off, run, don’t walk to the ophthalmologist. An IV is not required, you don’t even get undressed, there is no pain, it is 15 minutes and BOOM, you’re done.

Ok, back to bikes…

On Apr 20, 2024, at 5:12 PM, George Schick <bhi...@gmail.com> wrote:

Ryan - sorry.  I don't always see things as clearly with my aged ready-for-cataract surgery eyeballs.  Nevertheless, it bears repeating.

On Saturday, April 20, 2024 at 4:06:11 PM UTC-5 Ryan wrote:

81 PBH was mentioned

On Saturday, April 20, 2024 at 4:04:52 PM UTC-5 Ryan wrote:

There ya go Leah!...Put yourself in Bill's more-than-capable hands and you won't go wrong!

On Saturday, April 20, 2024 at 3:51:55 PM UTC-5 Bill Lindsay wrote:

Leah

My previous Roadeo was set up as a straight-ahead stripped down road bike, and I would have used that anyplace anybody rides a road bike.  After selling that, and while I was waiting for my new pink Roadeo, I used my Black Mountain Road in that stripped down road bike slot, and that bike was the deal of the century, IMO.  The RoadeoRosa revealed itself to be more than just a stripped down road bike: It has insisted to become my 700c randonneuse.  

Anyway, I did a very fast build on a Leo Roadini, last batch, and my best-ever brevet time was on that bike.  So I think it's doable.  The newer batch with its long reach brakes feels less "roadie".  

I can sympathize with the desire to run a Riv, but I'd also recommend casting a wider net, because smaller frame sized used road bikes can be had at a really good price.  Maybe if you start trolling Michigan craigslist and the next time I'm out in Wayne County for work I can come be your personal shopper.  :)

Anything that can be set up with drop bars can probably also be set up with an albastache build, which may ease you in.  Also, having a placeholder road bike could free you up to put a deposit on a Roadeo and then you'll have both!  

Do let me know if you want more advice

Bill Lindsay

El Cerrito, CA

On Saturday, April 20, 2024 at 12:33:50 PM UTC-7 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:

I’m starting to wonder about a roadbike. But it has to be a Rivendell roadbike because I’m loyal and all that. Anyway, I don’t know that the Roadini really offers enough of a change for me. I have no idea what is going on with the Gallup. Then there’s the Roadeo - that one looks great but there’s a 2 year wait, unless I can find one used. Which would be ideal. 

Who rides their Rivbike in club rides and what do you ride? Who has a Roadeo that never gets ridden and wants to sell it? I don’t even know what size I’d be but I’m an 81 PBH. Must I ride drop bars? I never have before. I know nothing about any of this. Clearly.

Note: I still like my raspberry Platypus for club riding but it does take a toll on me in wind. I recently got a shorter-height, longer-reach stem which marginally helped, but our high spring winds are taking it out of me. I did a club ride yesterday with my women’s group and my heart rate was in the 170s the whole 26.3 miles. It was brutal. Everyone else agreed it was a hard ride, but I felt like it was harder on me than them, and I’m the youngest and probably the most fit. 

Leah

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[Patrick Moore]

+1 for this advice. Also, +1 for Bill as docent and road bike purchase middleman.

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[Ted Durant]

On Sunday, April 21, 2024 at 4:07:47 PM UTC-5 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:

Ok, ok….I really will consider drop bars. But I do wonder…everyone says they offer so many hand positions; but I only see people with their hands on the hoods. Are riders really utilizing different hand positions? 

Great question. Racers and wannabe racers as I noted set up their bikes with a big drop from saddle to bars and a shorter horizontal reach to the bars. And they spend almost all their time on the hoods. I roam all over the bars. Today's 100km somewhat hilly, fairly windy ride was a great example. Heading out into the wind I spent a fair amount of time on the drops and hoods, but I was not riding at a hard effort (averaged around 22kph going out). Getting into the hills was a lot more time on the tops and the hoods, with a few standing climbs, working harder on the hills that got up to 15%. Coming home with a tail wind was a fair amount of time on the top curves, not riding too hard, enjoying the tail wind motor assist (and the net down hill). 

 

Also, I saw a pic of an albastache with brake levers in the middle of the bar. Would this mimic the freedom of hand position changes a drop bar offers? 

My experience has been that's not a great alternative. The wrist angles tend to be weird.

 

I practiced tonight on my ride by grabbing the front of my Billie bars. It felt nice to be stretched out like that, but with no access to brakes or shifters from there I didn’t like to stay long. Unnerving.

Understood! That's one reason why some people set up drop bars with cyclocross-inspired interrupter brake levers under the tops. I never have felt the need for that on road rides. If my hands are on the tops, I'm probably not going fast enough to need an immediate stop. 

Ted Durant

Milwaukee, WI USA

[Patrick Moore]

As someone else said, skip the scruples and just try drop bars. They're comfortable, which is (I assert) the reason why they've been used for well over 100 years. 

Riders don't use drops because their bars are positioned far too low; the hoods position on modern bikes is like the hooks position on "traditional" road bikes. 

I've not used Albastaches but I've used many, many, Moustache bars and nope, not like drops. You might end up hating drops, but please try a few.

Patrick "38 cm Maes Parallel road, 42 cm Maes Parallel dirt" Moore

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[Chris Halasz]

I see many here of the relatively long torso to short inseam chromosomal group recommending square frames (top tube similar to seat tube) geometries. I wonder if that will work for Leah. 

This never worked for my 5' 5" wife. The only non-custom dropped bar bike she ever fit decently on was the smallest of the Bleriots (49cm?) with 650b wheels to limit toe clip overlap (TCO), and that only worked with a maximally extended 50mm Technomic stem. 

We at one point purchased a Gunnar 50cm frame with nice short top tube. Upon receiving the frame, I realized it had something like a 75 degree seat tube, which would not work with my wife's long femurs, no matter the then available setback seat posts. 

So I recommend the *smallest* (i.e. shortest) sloping top tubed frame that will elevate the bars as much as possible, and discount threadless ahead-type forks and stems, allowing for plenty of elevation of the bars, and recommend no larger that 650b wheels and not-too-chunky (38mm max) tires to limit TCO. 

(I also don't recommend a cyclocross frame unless you really like standing over exposed top tube cables that are wiped clean by your shorts.)

Unless, Leah, you have a long torso compared to your inseam, then you may ignore! 

And we all are anxious to see what you end up with. Personally? I'd love to hear how you drop the whole pack on a custom-painted Roaduno. 

Cheers 

Chris

SB, CA

[eddietheflay]

They look dorky but with the right height stem something like Soma Condor 2 bars can make drops more comfy than ever. If they are high enough you can comfortably ride on the tops, hoods, or drops. I just replaced Billie bars on two bikes with Condors. Steering is less twitchy with hands in front of the steering axis and braking can be done from the hoods and the drops. Depending on your fit, I would guess these variables could be had with normal drops.

https://www.somafab.com/archives/product/condor-2-handlebar

[lucky...@gmail.com]

Leah,

Did I miss the part where you got a professional fitting somewhere local to you and then ordered a Custom Riv Road just for you? Heck, you could build a step thru custom Riv Road if you wanted! I bet that will be a beautiful bike. 

Yours, Riv Sister Liz 

On Apr 21, 2024, at 14:29, Chris Halasz <cha...@gmail.com> wrote:

I see many here of the relatively long torso to short inseam chromosomal group recommending square frames (top tube similar to seat tube) geometries. I wonder if that will work for Leah. 

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/0f1cf9da-a841-49c6-96e7-7f86776ba1efn%40googlegroups.com.

[RichS]

Leah, one more thought building on the Sam, Homer, Ram, etc. suggestions. The periwinkle color samples Will showed in the Friday Riv newsletter strikes me as a color that is right in your wheelhouse. I know one of the country bikes is not at the top of your wanted list, but I believe you could build a reasonably light (23-24lbs.?), zippy periwinkle Sam rolling on RH or Continental 5000 32mm tires and you'd be at the front!

Full disclosure: I have a Sam with 32mm Grand Bois Cypress tires:-))) Good luck and have fun with your search.

Best,

Rich in ATL

[Ted Durant]

> On Apr 21, 2024, at 7:59 PM, RichS <rshann...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Leah, one more thought building on the Sam, Homer, Ram, etc. suggestions. The periwinkle color samples Will showed in the Friday Riv newsletter strikes me as a color that is right in your wheelhouse. I know one of the country bikes is not at the top of your wanted list, but I believe you could build a reasonably light (23-24lbs.?), zippy periwinkle Sam rolling on RH or Continental 5000 32mm tires and you'd be at the front!
>

FWIW, I am very happy with my 2 Sams as all-rounder road and trail bikes. I have them set up, position-wise, very much like my “road” bikes and with Noodle bars. I wouldn’t hesitate to take them on a group ride, though I probably wouldn’t try to hang with the 25mph club.

One thing to be aware of as you compare options is that Grant likes shallow seat tube angles these days. That makes it a little trickier to compare the handlebar reach with other bikes. (Don’t get me started on the bike companies that are now publishing “effective seat tube angle”.) I decided to set up my Sams with a bit less reach than my other bikes, so the back of the handlebars is just beyond my fingertips, rather than an inch or two. I don’t think you need to go all the way down to 32mm tires to make it zippy. I have 48’s on mine and that might be overkill, but I bet 38’s would be super fast and agile. (Decreasing tire size reduces both pneumatic and geometric trail and it reduces rotational inertia, all of which makes a bike feel “zippier”.)

I saw the Periwinkle sample and am stupidly tempted to get a third Sam.

But I also understand the curiosity about a true road bike. My Heron and Riv Road and Waterford ST-22 have around 33,000 kms on them since 2017.

[Adam Moss]

Another plus one for the Crust Lighting bolt. I’ve had a riv road, original Hillborne, Cheviot, and finally a Hunqapllar which is hopefully my forever bike. I recently picked up a Canti Lighting Bolt and it’s a lovely complement to my Hunq which is setup as an ATB. The LB is quick and responsive feeling and rides great with somewhat upright drops. It rides like a cousin to my riv. 

W

[ascpgh]

My Rambouillet has been a road bike on fast club rides and an underbike on away from road adventures for me for twenty years. Purchased originally to face the challenge of a cross country ride in super light credit card mode departing Virginia heading west. The Riv/Grant details put comfort into a bike I ride for many hours at a time or pretty enthusiastically in the steep urban environment here around town. A bit longer stays, 2° upslope top tube, 2cm extension of the head tube lug, shorter top tube than seat tube. It can be ridden with a drop bar well above saddle height, a flat bar or level like mine. Could even be a transformer and have both a drop cockpit on a stem and a flatter bar on a stem and go back and forth as you feel. 

Leah's road curiosity reminds me of the Dr. Seuss title "Oh, The Places You'll Go". I can already imagine a "Leah Roadini". It's fun to say even if the details of her needs and wants veer toward other models. 

Andy Cheatham

Pittsburgh

On Saturday, April 20, 2024 at 4:51:55 PM UTC-4 Bill Lindsay wrote:

Leah

My previous Roadeo was set up as a straight-ahead stripped down road bike, and I would have used that anyplace anybody rides a road bike.  After selling that, and while I was waiting for my new pink Roadeo, I used my Black Mountain Road in that stripped down road bike slot, and that bike was the deal of the century, IMO.  The RoadeoRosa revealed itself to be more than just a stripped down road bike: It has insisted to become my 700c randonneuse.  

Anyway, I did a very fast build on a Leo Roadini, last batch, and my best-ever brevet time was on that bike.  So I think it's doable.  The newer batch with its long reach brakes feels less "roadie".  

I can sympathize with the desire to run a Riv, but I'd also recommend casting a wider net, because smaller frame sized used road bikes can be had at a really good price.  Maybe if you start trolling Michigan craigslist and the next time I'm out in Wayne County for work I can come be your personal shopper.  :)

Anything that can be set up with drop bars can probably also be set up with an albastache build, which may ease you in.  Also, having a placeholder road bike could free you up to put a deposit on a Roadeo and then you'll have both!  

Do let me know if you want more advice

Bill Lindsay

El Cerrito, CA

[John Dewey]

I ride my 20 year old RAM in pacelines with all the carbons and riders quite a bit younger than I am with a big grin on my face 💥😎 Never miss my turn at the front. 

Makes me so happy…like a thief of time. 

Jock

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[Corwin Zechar]

Hi Leah -

I would generally agree with what Ted said. Riding position and fit are very important. But I don't think that's the only criteria I would use. I have ten bikes. Five are Rivs. I have a Custom, Quickbeam, Roadeo, Ram and Hubbuhubbuh. I find that geometry is important in my riding. Some bikes can be more "twitchy" and/or less stable because of their geometry. Things like trail, head and seat tube angles and bottom bracket drop can affect the handling and stability of a bike. I don't get hung up on numbers, and judge the handling and stability based on how a bike rides.

All of my Rivs are rock-solid stable and handle exceptionally well. I know that the low center of gravity, trail and angles contribute to this. Stability and handling are very important to me because I ride lots of hills. Going uphill depends on gears, fitness and leg strength. The stability and handling come into play going downhill. Rivs provide a level of confidence I don't get on other bikes. You can be sure the bike will go where you point it.

About Albastache and Mustache bars - I have five bikes (some of them Rivs) with Mustache and Albastache bars. I find I can get every bit as low on Mustache and Albastache bars as on drop bars. The rest of my bikes have drop bars. The main thing I like about drop bars is riding the hoods. On drops, I find there are primarily three hand positions: 1) on the hoods, 2) on the ramps (slightly farther back than on the hoods) and 3) on the flats on either side of the stem. I rarely get into the drops. With the Albastache and Mustache, I find I have more riding positions.

Have fun on your road bike, whatever you get.

Regards,

Corwin

[Bicycle Belle Ding Ding!]

All of these replies are interesting. And when I read one I think, “Yes, that’s right” and then read another which conflicts and change my mind. This is going to be a journey. I can’t even believe how much there is to know.

I’m later getting here than the rest of you, I think. It was 2012 when I first realized there were better bikes than the Walmart Schwinn I was pulling my preschoolers around with. I got a Betty Foy with the biggest racks and baskets money could buy and away we went. So happy! Still knowing nothing! 

Now those boys are in high school, and I live in a vibrant bike community and suddenly it’s a whole new world for me. Every riding season I end up learning and being stretched. I’m doing new kinds of rides, meeting lots of people, volunteering on bike committees, and venturing a lot further from home. 5 years ago I would never have believed I’d ride a metric century or enjoy club riding. This is all wonderful, but I’m hamstrung by my lack of experience. I always thought drop bars would have to be uncomfortable. It wasn’t until this thread that I even considered trying them. Are they a rite of passage? “Oh, you’ll never use them forever but just scratch the itch now so you can say you have.” Or are they the gold standard “They’ve been used for 100 years for good reason.” I worry I’m too late to start using them after all this time on albatross and Billies. I have to look up what “on the ramps” means. I don’t know what the “right” geometry is for a road bike belonging to a devoted Rivendell rider would be. I dread being uncomfortable. I fear screwing up with the new drop bars and crashing in a peloton. I have no idea what shifters I’d put on drop bars. I thought albastache might be a good compromise but heard they aren’t wrist-neutral and then that they are. So.Much.To.Know. But everything I do now scares me, so let’s go.

Keep your replies coming! I read every one, even if I don’t respond, I am definitely thinking about them and chatting with other RivSisters who have similar questions.

Thanks for taking the time!

Leah

[Bill Lindsay]

"I have to look up what “on the ramps” means. "

Five hand-positions, defined and illustrated, by the lovely "Lovely Bicycle":

http://lovelybike.blogspot.com/2012/06/drop-bar-hand-positions-introduction.html

BL in EC

[Patrick Moore]

And Velouria has an April 2024 post!

Leah might want to read back issues of Lovely Bicycle; Velouria/Constance had a similar bike journey, including Rivendells and customs, from cycling urban Boston to brevets, IIRC.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/47f93ca8-eec5-47df-9ba9-1aa858a4c67an%40googlegroups.com.

[Corwin Zechar]

Since you could easily put the same components on either a Roadeo or a Roadini (with the possible exception of the stem - if you had a Roadeo with a threadless steerer), I don't understand how the difference would be in the components.

Seems to me that the difference would be mostly in the standover height and the wheelbase.

Regards,

Corwin

On Saturday, April 20, 2024 at 2:16:59 PM UTC-7 Johnny Alien wrote:

I doubt the Roadeo is a TON lighter than a Roadini. I think the weight details would be in the build more than anything else. As far as bars are concerned drops are fun on a road bike but not required. My recommendation for a non-drop road setup would be the Albastache bars which are IMO the best road bars out there.

On Saturday, April 20, 2024 at 5:12:07 PM UTC-4 George Schick wrote:

Ryan - sorry.  I don't always see things as clearly with my aged ready-for-cataract surgery eyeballs.  Nevertheless, it bears repeating.

On Saturday, April 20, 2024 at 4:06:11 PM UTC-5 Ryan wrote:

81 PBH was mentioned

On Saturday, April 20, 2024 at 4:04:52 PM UTC-5 Ryan wrote:

There ya go Leah!...Put yourself in Bill's more-than-capable hands and you won't go wrong!

On Saturday, April 20, 2024 at 3:51:55 PM UTC-5 Bill Lindsay wrote:

Leah

My previous Roadeo was set up as a straight-ahead stripped down road bike, and I would have used that anyplace anybody rides a road bike.  After selling that, and while I was waiting for my new pink Roadeo, I used my Black Mountain Road in that stripped down road bike slot, and that bike was the deal of the century, IMO.  The RoadeoRosa revealed itself to be more than just a stripped down road bike: It has insisted to become my 700c randonneuse.  

Anyway, I did a very fast build on a Leo Roadini, last batch, and my best-ever brevet time was on that bike.  So I think it's doable.  The newer batch with its long reach brakes feels less "roadie".  

I can sympathize with the desire to run a Riv, but I'd also recommend casting a wider net, because smaller frame sized used road bikes can be had at a really good price.  Maybe if you start trolling Michigan craigslist and the next time I'm out in Wayne County for work I can come be your personal shopper.  :)

Anything that can be set up with drop bars can probably also be set up with an albastache build, which may ease you in.  Also, having a placeholder road bike could free you up to put a deposit on a Roadeo and then you'll have both!  

Do let me know if you want more advice

Bill Lindsay

El Cerrito, CA

[Laing Conley]

The most important thing about a road bike is that it must be orange. My previous club riding bike was an orange Sam Hillborne. My current club riding bike is my orange Rivendell Custom. Orange bikes have been proven time and again to be faster than non-orange bikes. Molteni Orange is the fastest shade of orange.

Sam Hillborne

Custom

Seriously though, a bike for club riding should be comfortable and I like having drop bars on a road bike because they allow a variety of hand positions for long rides. I did ride the Cross-Florida (175 miles in two days) once on my green Bombadil with Bullmoose bars, but that is more the exception than the rule. A Sam Hillborne or better yet an A Homer Hilsen would make excellent road bikes if you cannot find a Rodeo. A Roadini would also be an excellent choice if you do not need lugs on your frame.

Laing Conley

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[Laing Conley]

The most important thing about a road bike is that it must be orange. My previous club riding bike was an orange Sam Hillborne. My current club riding bike is my orange Rivendell Custom. Orange bikes have been proven time and again to be faster than non-orange bikes. Molteni Orange is the fastest shade of orange.

Sam Hillborne
 
Custom
 
Seriously though, a bike for club riding should be comfortable and I like having drop bars on a road bike because they allow a variety of hand positions for long rides. I did ride the Cross-Florida (175 miles in two days) once on my green Bombadil with Bullmoose bars, but that is more the exception than the rule. A Sam Hillborne or better yet an A Homer Hilsen would make excellent road bikes if you cannot find a Rodeo. A Roadini would also be an excellent choice if you do not need lugs on your frame.

Laing Conley

On Mon, Apr 22, 2024 at 4:23 PM Corwin Zechar <cz...@sonic.net> wrote:

--

[George Schick]

When you "cut to the chase" many of us old farts on this blog started riding bikes in a serious way back in the early 70's.  And the go-to manual for bikers back then was Eugene Sloane's "The Complete Book of Bicycling."  In that excellent instruction manual, as it were, he went to a great extent to appeal to the use of "drop bars" (or simply road bars by most folks back then) for road riders.  Of course, many different developments in cycling have taken place since then, especially the introduction of the so-called "hybrid bikes" with flat bars and the "mountain bikes," both of which introduced different types of handlebars, tire types, and saddles.  It's a bit of a lament that the regular "road bike" of the previous decades where "drop bars," saddle types, gearing, tires, etc. of the previous period more or less disappeared in the advent of those unique biking configurations.  Almost every time I venture out on a bike path around these parts I mostly see people riding bikes configured with a "hybrid" set up...unless, of course they're riding  e-bikes, which are becoming way too commonplace nowadays.  I would encourage anyone who has an inclination to pick up and begin riding regular road bikes to do so.

[Mathias Steiner]

Leah,

Don't overthink this. It's hard to build an actual "bad" bike, and the big names don't do it.

There are bike that are too "special" in some way -- too slow- or fast-handling, or whatever, but these are nuances. I can switch from a crit-geometry racer to a tourer and by the end of the block, I stop noticing it.

Check out this ad:
https://grandrapids.craigslist.org/bid/d/grand-rapids-bike-sale-40-or-less/7731072255.html

and go buy the ~51-52 cm red Centurion in the first picture.
For $40, you'll have something to play with and see how the setup might work for you.

If it's rideable, it's hard to see how this is not a good idea, and if Centurion built lousy bikes, I haven't heard of it.

cheers -mathias

[Tony Lockhart]

@Leah--Get one of these....3x8 drivetrain, Nitto and Silver everywhere. Add a few bags and spend your weekends putting down mileage....guaranteed to give you a million smiles and zero worries.

[Leah Peterson]

Tony, I swooned. Actually swooned. Gorgeous, gorgeous.

I rode the Mon Night Ride on my Racing Platy tonight. I was so apprehensive at the start because the winds were 13 mph with 21 mph gusts and it was open road. I should not be doing this, I thought. Where is my road bike?

But it was the best ride. Did we have wind? Yes. But somehow it was great and energizing and we just killed it. I had done an intense upper body lifting session this morning and still it was great and not draining!

Can I prove that to you?

No. 

My Apple Watch died on the ride.  🤬 

There were men I don’t know on the ride tonight, so of course I got comments. One of them said, “I hope you never get a road bike.”

But I just might.

Leah

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 22, 2024, at 8:41 PM, Tony Lockhart <alockh...@gmail.com> wrote:

@Leah--Get one of these....3x8 drivetrain, Nitto and Silver everywhere. Add a few bags and spend your weekends putting down mileage....guaranteed to give you a million smiles and zero worries.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/7ed22763-f505-4740-8de8-9ad33a8c36c2n%40googlegroups.com.

[Ted Durant]

On Apr 22, 2024, at 8:26 PM, Leah Peterson <jonasa...@gmail.com> wrote:

Tony, I swooned. Actually swooned. Gorgeous, gorgeous.

It’s even better in person.

But it was the best ride. Did we have wind? Yes. But somehow it was great and energizing and we just killed it. I had done an intense upper body lifting session this morning and still it was great and not draining!

Nice. Double sessions. 👍

There were men I don’t know on the ride tonight, so of course I got comments. One of them said, “I hope you never get a road bike.”

The old back handed compliment. Well, you might pick up a little speed if you’re at the front of the peloton going into the wind, but in the pack or downwind I suspect you’ll find you’re riding the same speed at about the same effort. I’m looking forward to the ride report where you say you felt good at the front of the pack, kept your head down, set the internal metronome, and ticked away the miles, and when you sat up you realized there was nobody behind you.

[Leah Peterson]

My husband just now: Are you getting ANOTHER bike? 

Me: Well…not necessarily. I have to weigh out all the pros and cons, you see.

Him: I know how this ends. It ends with the Annual Bike Purchase of the Last Bike I’ll Ever Need.

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 22, 2024, at 9:26 PM, Leah Peterson <jonasa...@gmail.com> wrote:

Tony, I swooned. Actually swooned. Gorgeous, gorgeous.

[Ted Durant]

On Apr 22, 2024, at 8:35 PM, Leah Peterson <jonasa...@gmail.com> wrote:

Him: I know how this ends. It ends with the Annual Bike Purchase of the Last Bike I’ll Ever Need.

Doesn’t he know about the n+1 theory of bicycles?

[Jay]

I haven’t read all the posts (so many, wow!) but I suggest trying a bike with drop bars to see if it’s a possibility for you.  A friend, or an lbs perhaps.  If the bike fits you well the bars might feel great, or something you think can grown on you with time.  Bad fit and likely the bars wouldn’t feel good, so that wouldn’t be a fair assessment.

I love my newish Roadini.

Good luck!

[Nick A.]

"Me: Well…not necessarily. I have to weigh out all the pros and cons, you see."

Lol yep. To quote The Dude, "the ins, the outs, the what-have-yous..."

Also one enjoying this conversation.

Nick "definitely totally haven't had to talk about bikes in this way with my partner who shares a life with an eccentric" in Falls Church VA

[Jim M.]

Raspberry Roadeo is definitely the last bike  you'll ever need. Have Bill help pick a good used bike for the wait.

jim m

walnut creek

 

[Mathias Steiner]

>> Have Bill help pick a good used bike for the wait.

What @Jim said.

@Bill could chime in on this

Look again at my post from 20:17 last night -- there's a bike co-op in Grand Rapids that went belly-up and the successor is brooming out the inventory.

https://grandrapids.craigslist.org/bid/d/grand-rapids-bike-sale-40-or-less/7731072255.html

That there Centurion is a 1986 Ironman Expert, probably in 52 cm size, built with Tange #1 tubing. The bike market is worse now than before the pandemic,

and deals abound, so it's not too surprising.

These are Triathlon bikes, IOW time trialing, and have no need for criterium quickness. They're built to be fast, and comfortable enough for a full Ironman. Very much a period piece.

It's a Nitto Technomic stem away from a Rivish riding position.

The picture is lousy but the three details marked below make it likely I got the ID right, incl. the goofy seat post.
Compare to this valuation from 2014, and if you snoop around on bikeforums:
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage-bicycles-whats-worth-appraisals/931373-all-original-1986-centurion-ironman-expert-dave-scott-great-condition.html

At a minimum, it's worth a look.
Learn something from a bike like this, THEN spend $3,500 on another Riv build.

cheers -mathias

[Doug H.]

Same conversation I have with my wife annually, sometimes semi-annually. Haha

Doug

[Garth]

I don't know if this has been brought up but there's nothing stopping Leah from simply using a drop bar with an appropriate stem and saddle to go with the position. I can't speak to what bar heights/lengths are attainable, but I suspect with the smaller versions she has now, it would easy. Weight of the frame isn't nearly as important as it's portrayed to be, especially for low grades and short hills where you ride.The drag from the wind increases exponentially above about 12mph and there's always wind. Weight is easy to sell/concentrate on because it's a game of numbers, regardless of the efficacy of such. I'm not saying to ride a 50 pound bike, I'm saying given the type of parts we all ride here, there is sharp dropoff of very diminishing returns in spending lots of money so save weight. 

The point is if you want to familiarize with drop bars you don't need another bike to start. Plus they come in a huge range of how much reach and drop the bars may have. So don't get dismayed if one doesn't feel right off the bat. This way you can feel what it's like in your group rides with the same bike, just a different bar/position. 

[Joe Bernard]

Since I haven't chimed in on this yet - which is unlike me - I shall do so now. Don't buy bikes you don't want, don't put drops on a frame you've already designed around another purpose. Do pick up a Ram or Roadini if you stumble on one you love now, you can sell it later. Do grab that Gallup when it becomes a reality, I think you'll adore it. 

These are my big thoughts couched as commands but they are just my opinions based on what I know about my friend Leah. 

Joe Bernard 

[John S]

If that used Centurion is in your general size range, it would be a fantastic starting point for your road bike exploration. Refreshing an old frameset (whether to replace worn out parts with new ones or to improve fit) can be such a fun and satisfying process.

[Bill Lindsay]

"@Bill could chime in on this"

I already have chimed in, and realize that she's getting prescriptive guidance in a lot of different directions.  She knows how to reach me if she wants more advice from me.  I trust her instincts and will eagerly anticipate the path she chooses.  She's a grown-up and will make a good decision which will lead her to the next decision and so on....  

Bill Lindsay

El Cerrito, CA

[Jim Bronson]

Get an old one like a Rambouillet for true road-ability.  The early Rivs are the best if you are into club riding.  I love my Clem for being versatile but I have ridden over 20,000 Km of brevets on my 90s Riv Road Standard or custom, not sure which. I bought it used.  I have mine 650B converted, run 650Bx38 with the Tektro long, long reach brakes, 55-73 reach, IIRC.  There's several others in the forum that have theirs done this way as well.

Jim

Austin, TX burbs

On Sat, Apr 20, 2024 at 2:33 PM Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! <jonasa...@gmail.com> wrote:

I’m starting to wonder about a roadbike. But it has to be a Rivendell roadbike because I’m loyal and all that. Anyway, I don’t know that the Roadini really offers enough of a change for me. I have no idea what is going on with the Gallup. Then there’s the Roadeo - that one looks great but there’s a 2 year wait, unless I can find one used. Which would be ideal. 

Who rides their Rivbike in club rides and what do you ride? Who has a Roadeo that never gets ridden and wants to sell it? I don’t even know what size I’d be but I’m an 81 PBH. Must I ride drop bars? I never have before. I know nothing about any of this. Clearly.

Note: I still like my raspberry Platypus for club riding but it does take a toll on me in wind. I recently got a shorter-height, longer-reach stem which marginally helped, but our high spring winds are taking it out of me. I did a club ride yesterday with my women’s group and my heart rate was in the 170s the whole 26.3 miles. It was brutal. Everyone else agreed it was a hard ride, but I felt like it was harder on me than them, and I’m the youngest and probably the most fit. 

Leah

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[Leah Peterson]

So I found a 55 cm Romulus for $1250. What do we think of THAT?

On Apr 23, 2024, at 3:02 PM, Jim Bronson <jim.b...@gmail.com> wrote:



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[Bill Lindsay]

I think that falls into Joe Bernard's recommendation of taking a flyer on a used Rivendell at decent price.  Love it if you can and sell it if you find you can't love it.  Go for it if you can stand over it. 

I bought a used 59cm Romulus this year, and built it but haven't ridden it, because of my weird self-imposed mileage quota system.  But I will be Rom-riding this summer!

BL in EC

[George Schick]

Sounds great, right in and around your PBH and SOH.  'Course, that all depends upon what kind of shape it's in, where it has to come from (shipped or local) therefore sight seen or unseen, etc. I'd say give it a shot - there aren't many of those Romulus models around and they're almost collectables.  Got a trustworthy LBS now that you can depend upon to give it a good going over and therefore a professional evaluation?

Best winds!

[Leah Peterson]

It’s only got under 1k miles. Was someone’s wife’s and is in “excellent” condition. 

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 23, 2024, at 3:46 PM, George Schick <bhi...@gmail.com> wrote:

Sounds great, right in and around your PBH and SOH.  'Course, that all depends upon what kind of shape it's in, where it has to come from (shipped or local) therefore sight seen or unseen, etc. I'd say give it a shot - there aren't many of those Romulus models around and they're almost collectables.  Got a trustworthy LBS now that you can depend upon to give it a good going over and therefore a professional evaluation?

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/5c06597a-dc0b-4cfc-bc8c-592952acceeen%40googlegroups.com.

[Mathias Steiner]

>> So I found a 55 cm Romulus for $1250. What do we think of THAT?

We think that you need to find a geometry chart for the Romulus.

The older AHH and Roadeo charts show 80.9 and 80.6 cm standover clearance, respectively, for the 55 cm size.

That's awfully close to your stated PBH of 81 cm.

cheers -mathias

[Piaw Na(藍俊彪)]

The Romulus had a different geometry with a much misleading frame sizing. Here's the geometry: https://notfine.com/rivreader/Brochures/Rivendell%20Frames%20Romulus.pdf

Looks like if you were 5' 10", that'll put you onto a 59cm Romulus. Unusual compared to today's Roadini sizing, but the Romulus also has a lower BB. I would buy it. If Leah doesn't want it let me know and I'd consider it for my wife who still wants a Roadini.

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[Leah Peterson]

Let’s both Rom-ride this summer! We could even do it in Michigan! 

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 23, 2024, at 3:46 PM, Bill Lindsay <tape...@gmail.com> wrote:

I think that falls into Joe Bernard's recommendation of taking a flyer on a used Rivendell at decent price.  Love it if you can and sell it if you find you can't love it.  Go for it if you can stand over it. 

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/4e978f5b-9170-4fda-8eab-4e53400a96cfn%40googlegroups.com.

[Leah Peterson]

I will let you know, Piaw. If it doesn’t work for me I hope it can work for your wife.

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 23, 2024, at 3:55 PM, Piaw Na <pi...@gmail.com> wrote:



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[P W]

My only contribution to this very engaging, and very long thread:

BUY IT!

P. W.

~

(917) 514-2207

~

On Apr 23, 2024, at 1:02 PM, Leah Peterson <jonasa...@gmail.com> wrote:

Let’s both Rom-ride this summer! We could even do it in Michigan! 

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/D220EC86-592D-4F9D-9347-FC4138E6131C%40gmail.com.

[Johnny Alien]

That still falls into that "rivendell likes to size up" thing. I had a 54 Rambouillet and while I am 5'9" I have a lower PBH (around 80). The 54 was the max I would be comfortable with. A 55 Romulus would likely work. Leah's PBH is slightly larger so I think the 55 would be a great fit. Going to a 59 sounds crazy to me.

[Johnny Alien]

And congrats if you get it. That is a very solid road focused Riv at a really fair price.

[Mathias Steiner]

The stated standover for the size 55 Romulus is 80 cm.

"The standover heights here are with a 700x27 (686 mm [diameter]) road tire. It will be lower with a typical 700x23, and of course, higher with a 700x38."

It's probably fine. I'd mock up an 80 cm top tube and see how comfortable you think you'd be straddling it. Add 5 mm for 32 mm tires.

cheers -mathias

On Tuesday, April 23, 2024 at 3:55:13 PM UTC-4 pi...@gmail.com wrote:

[George Schick]

Hmm... according to a geometry chart for the Romulus http://cyclofiend.com/rbw/romulus/romflyer/04.html a 55cm Rom should have a "typical  PBH" of between 79-80 and a 57cm for those with PBH's of 81-83.  So...disagreeing as I do with Grant about "going larger is better" on frame size, I'd say that this bike would be perfect.

[Leah Peterson]

…which would give me room for that larger tire!

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 23, 2024, at 4:09 PM, George Schick <bhi...@gmail.com> wrote:

Hmm... according to a geometry chart for the Romulus http://cyclofiend.com/rbw/romulus/romflyer/04.html a 55cm Rom should have a "typical  PBH" of between 79-80 and a 57cm for those with PBH's of 81-83.  So...disagreeing as I do with Grant about "going larger is better" on frame size, I'd say that this bike would be perfect.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/d460ea16-54c3-4274-865d-488420fe2452n%40googlegroups.com.

[Ryan]

Worth a shot Leah! Do let us know how it works out

[George Schick]

Yep, according to that Riv chart, up to 38mm.  But I don't recommend going there because they will increase your SOH.  And you don't really need any tires of that size anyway if you have a road bike that you're going to be riding on paved roads - 32mm or so would be good enough.

[Johnny Alien]

The Romulus was essentially just the Rambouillet and I fit Kojaks on it. Those are stated to be 35 but I think they were actually more like 36. With that in mind it worked but I am not sure I would have been able to or wanted to go to 38's. It was probably possible though.

Interesting that in reviewing some of those pages Grant said that the AHH and Rambouillet are the same with the only exception being that the AHH takes larger tires. I'm not sure I ever knew that before. I thought the AHH was the same as the Saluki with only the 650B vs 700C tires being the difference at the beginning.