V-Brake Measurement Request

[Tony Lockhart]

Hey folks,

By any chance, are you running v-brakes AND a front rack? If so, would you mind taking some measurements?

My Sam is setup with a Nitto M12 front rack and some cantilever brakes. I'd like to swap over to v-brakes however I want to make sure there's enough clearance.

Looks like I've got a solid 3.75 inches from the center of the brake posts to the bottom of the rack. I'm hoping v-brake wires will fit underneath (or above) the rack post without interference. When looking at images online, and on the Riv site, it looks like the wire pass right in front of the fork crown hole.

If you're got v-brakes, could you take a measurement and let me know? 

Many thanks in advance, 

Tony

[George Rosselle]

I have a similar set up on an old Fat Chance, and it is 4 1/4" to the top of the straddle wire on the brakes. So it will not make it under your rack but might clear over the top of it.

[Jack Newcomb]

Here's my deore xt v brakes on my latest revision sam hillborne. In person i measured 10.5 cm to the top of the brake arm

[Ted W]

Assuming distance from brake boss to fender hole at the crown is consistent between models, you’re going to have a tough time fitting that rack with v-brakes. The straddle cable on my Shimano Alivios, used on my Appaloosa goes straight across the fender hole, if maybe slightly below. The case is worse with the straddle cable of my Paul Motolites on my Gus.

On both of these, I use Velo-Orange racks. I used the Canti-mount rando rack on the Appaloosa and on my Gus. In both cases, I had to bend the fender hole support to curve up and around the straddle cable.

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[aeroperf]

We're running Tektro 837 brakes under a Mark’s Rack on my wife's Platypus.

This is the 50Cm Platy with 650b wheels, so your geometry may vary.

4.25 inches from the center of the brake post to the wire, 4.35 inches to the top of the brake arm, and 5 inches to the bottom of the rack.

[Eliot Balogh]

I did VO and bent under with my canti setup and power hanger. Not V brakes but work well.

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[Tony Lockhart]

Thanks all!

Just as I suspected, the Shimanos won’t work. BTW, forgot to mention that my bike uses 700c wheels. 

Definitely too stubborn to remove my beloved Nitto rack, but curious enough to try the Tektros. Will post results when I get them in and attempt and install. 

Many thanks for the responses and pics. Cheers,

Tony

[Mark Schneider]

I have the same rack, and Deore XT V-brake, works fine. Just re-did the cable today, cable is running on top. I don't bother with noodles.

[Mark Schneider]

I should have mentioned this is on an Atlantis II.

[Will Boericke]

I have found this list of v-brake arm length measurements useful on multiple occasions.  Not directly related to request but may be of interest.

Will

[Coal Bee Rye Anne]

Thank you, Will, for linking the archived v-brake page - I recall the original page existing but forgot to where the archives moved (bookmark now saved, thanks!)  This helps a similar scenario on my Clem.  I recall I first tried to install a Nitto Mini Campee 32f at some point in the past but that it was a no-go for the same reasons mentioned above: v-brake cable crossing almost directly in front of the crown hole.  The rack ended up on a different build until recently and I decided to do another test with the rack now in hand again.   It seems I had only tried it with the cable going OVER the rack support with that first install attempt.    As it turns out, moving my v-brake cable under the rack support has much less interference once the rack is fully bolted onto the fork.  The v-brake noodle boot now just kind of rests against the underside of the rack support with very little deflection of the cable itself.  

During use on recent rides the boot did work its way over and out of position from pressing against the rack tubing leaving direct cable/rack contact but still very slight.  Matching up my Tektro v-brakes from the list linked by Will and a quick measurement on the bike I have one of the 110mm length Tektro models and moving to something a bit shorter (in the 95-100mm range) should clear just fine.  As an interim (maybe even longer term solution) I'm now considering just using a short piece of brake cable housing and lashing it to the bottom of the rack support (with thread or twine, etc.) to then guide the cable without wearing against the rack tubing since the clearance really is minimal going under.  Unless I could get around to a brake swap with some Avid 1.0 v-brakes on one of my spouses bikes that looks to have closer to 100mm arm length.  Eliminating some squeal on hers has been on the to-do list anyway so might be a no cost win-win to just swap all the arms soon.

Brian

Lawrence NJ