Questions about bars and brake levers

[Patrick Moore]

My Monocog (so much prettier than Leah's Platypus) is surprisingly comfortable with the stock (at least, that's what I got with the bike as second owner) mtb bar after I cut fully 8" off of it, but the shortening also cut off the ends that curved backward, and now there is only a minimal rearward angle; I'd like more. Also, I'd like more positions, both a sit up and beg type position and a lower and narrower hard-surface cruising position in addition to the sit-up-and-beg.

I know that I could get what I need with a longer (say 110 or 120 mm instead of 90) and higher (say 45* instead of 30*) stem, but the Monocog has cable discs (which work perfectly well with mtb levers, btw -- no rubbing, strong, only rather grabby). If I were to swap in a drop bar, I'd have to change the levers.

1. Jones bar or flared drop or something else? I don't want a bar with huge rearward sweep and, in fact, if I were to buy the Jones bar I looked at, I'd amputate all but fistfulls from each end.

2. If drop, which one? I'd like a flared drop for dirt and brush control, but with slightly narrower hoods that are comfortable when cruising on flat, hard ground, not hugely wide (of the 6 or 8 flared drops I tried over the years, from the original WTBs to the an On One bar of some sort that was far too wide, a 44 cm Salsa Bell Lap was the best, but that was 10 years ago or more. I'd set this up higher and closer so that the hooks are comfortable on (flat) singletrack, but the hoods comfortable for cruising with elbows bent, and the flats for situpandbeg.

3. Brake lever question: One advantage of the Jones is that I could use the existing levers. But for a drop bar, another question: Has anyone experience using cable MOUNTAIN BIKE discs with NON-AERO ROAD levers? Those in question are an old pair of mid-level Campy non aero levers.

4. On One Mary? I find the present too-straight cut down mtb bar more comfortable than the apparently similar Suly Open bar, though.

Ta!

Patrick

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Patrick Moore

Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

[Patrick Moore]

Sheesh. With higher and longer stem and the right drop bar.

[Joe Bernard]

You might like these Nitto Urban Bars they sell for the fixie/messenger crowd. They're narrow like you seem to want with the backsweep you need. 

https://www.benscycle.com/nitto-b260aa-urban-riser-handlebar-flatriser-handlebar-nitto-b260aa-870/p?idsku=642153&gclid=Cj0KCQiA1KiBBhCcARIsAPWqoSoN9w4f6ZBoiHwEw2lwOtCanVS2sImLj-APIlDkcyLYLENu94wUXxEaAlBsEALw_wcB

[Patrick Moore]

Thanks, Joe, I'll take another look (took a quick one). The 25.4 mm clamp is not a deal breaker, but I'd prefer 31.8 (stem is 31.8) and black, so any advice (y'all) about a similar shape but in fatter clamp and darker color, please speak up.

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[Joe Bernard]

My bad, 31.8, black, it's Cinelli! 53cm, still narrow. 

https://northwestbicycle.com/products/pepper-alloy-fixie-riser-bar-blk-31-8-53cm-b-cn1981?utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google%20Shopping&currency=USD&gclid=Cj0KCQiA1KiBBhCcARIsAPWqoSo9y35kaAkG2CO0FazubKoezQ482GCc22eppsOg81B_OLEgDNCAZ0IaApzEEALw_wcB

[Patrick Moore]

Thank you. Also close, but alas, per the photo, does not sweep back enough. 

For some reason your post made me think of looking at VO's handlebar product portfolio (bidniss speek, that) and the Dajia Far Bar (shallow 'n' short flared drop, 44 cm at hoods), Granola Bar, and Curvy bar might contend. There's also this, which is intriguing: https://velo-orange.com/collections/handlebars/products/handlebar-accessory-mount

If anyone can speak to any of these, I'll be grateful to hear from you. Also, grateful for experiences with the Jones bar.

My bars are so narrow (38 hoods road, 42 hoods off road, 56 cm flat mtb bar) that sometimes I've not had enough flats space for bells and lights. (No, I'm not small; ride a ~61-62 c-t road bike with flat tt; just don't like splayed shoulders.)

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[Joe Bernard]

Apparently I'm the only one home and answering bar questions today so I'll offer one more thought:

I've used Jones Loop Bars a few times and like the one longish position they offer at the grips, but think they're overrated for other positions. The grab-hold by the stem is useful for climbing kind of a bit, but the "aero" position forward was too narrow to be of any use to me. 

That's all I got, I'm out! 🙋‍♂️

[Patrick Moore]

Thanks, Joe. Three answers today, and you've made your quota.

Seriously, thanks, in particular for the insight about the Jones bar.

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[masmojo]

I've got a SOMA Eagle bar I'm not using: not sure if it would work for you or not????

They don't presently make these: my impression was that they were reworking the design and maybe coming out with a replacement.

See below links:

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipMauwhFiGVhwkEYok0XyRrEcms4XAqTphWCsAy9
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipORuUZjlNVkDOkaXhp69F_W0nvIl1GNhdsOHfDg

$45. Shipped

[masmojo]

I also have some Ahern MAP bars which I am not attached to, as well as possibly a couple others, but I am somewhat perplexed, because with just about any bar you go with narrowing it substantially will in turn leave you with minimal bar area for bells and such.

After years of accumulating stuff I am in cleanout mode, so I am willing to part with almost anything not bolted onto something of earmarked for my Platypus.

Email me & I can send you pics of what I got.

[Patrick Moore]

[Sorry, forgot your name] -- thanks very much for the offers. I'd prefer the Ahearn/Map bar if it's black and 31.8, so would be interested indeed in knowing specs and your price. In fact, the A/M bar looks like just the right "upright" bar to try for this bike.

Yes, narrowing the bar reduces accessory space, but I'll live with that; and the Monocog dispenses with useless clutter like gear shifters, so there probably will be room for a bell and light bracket.

Please LMK.

Thanks.

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[Patrick Moore]

It's Joe Ramey, right?

[Philip Williamson]

Black 31.8 flared drops in either 52 or 58 at the ends. Hoods are much narrower. I like the 58. I got a 52 at a great price from Analog, and Candace said “you probably won’t like it if you’re over 5’2”. She was right, at least with the Ritchey Force stem on the RoadLite. I swapped for a 58 and put moustache bars on the Frances.

https://www.bike-components.de/en/NITTO/RM-3-SSB-31-8-Handlebars-p73417/#product-image-14

https://analogcycles.com/product/nitto-super-flare-heat-treated-dirt-drops/

These used to be easier to find, and the silver 25.4 ones were harder to find. Times change.

Philip

Santa Rosa, CA

[Bill Lindsay]

Philip,

On my upcoming dirt-drop build I already have a set of Woodchippers, but I'd consider using these Nitto guys instead.  I'll be running a Paul adapter for a SRAM trigger shifter.  The Woodchipper has a long 31.8 section so there's plenty of room to clamp the Paul shifter perch along with other 31.8 stuff that I may include later.  Will this Nitto bulge give me similar real-estate?  It looks like it may taper down from 31.8 far sooner than the Woodchipper does.  

Do you have any other comments to talk me out of using the Woodchipper first?

Bill Lindsay

El Cerrito, CA

[Patrick Moore]

Thanks. I've been eyeing the Daija Far bar, only 44 cm at the hoods, but I think I'll try the MAP or a similar bar first.

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[Tim Baldwin]

Patrick, I have a 660mm Jones bar I'd be willing to sell. Since you're putting on a single speed, there's plenty of room to trim down to taste. I never held the front taped area much but that's because I put it on a bike with too much reach. Otherwise they were pretty solid for commuting, dirt roads, and some mellow singletrack. Not sue I would sell for any less than you would pay for ordering new Ahearne Map bars though.

[Patrick Moore]

Thanks, Tim; I considered the Jones bar but decided I'd like to try the MAP or similar bar first.

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[Tim Baldwin]

Patrick, I've ridden both. The Jones and MAP bar sweeps are pretty similar but the Jones needs a shorter stem. I went to the Jones for more width. I will say the MAP is a better looking bar and I know you don't want to spoil your beautiful Monocog with an ugly handlebar.

[Patrick Moore]

Thanks, all. I finally forced myself to stop dithering and ordered a MAP/Ahearne bar, black and 31.8. I fully intend to cut at least 2" and perhaps 3" off each end, and I hope that this doesn't make too many people wince. But 610 mm (the 31.8 comes only in this width; the 570 in 25.4) ought to be a very likeable ~560 mm if I take 2-3" off each end, and bring the width between ends down by an estimated total of 2". We'll see.

I'd have happily bought a Rivendell bar (have bought many in the past) but they all have too much sweepback, except the Bullmoose, and that costs about 15X what the bike is worth, and I'd have to cut it severely anyway. (I'm not ideological about narrow bars; I've tried any number of wide bars, properly set up, and I just don't like them.)

I seriously considered the Jones bar, but 2 negative reviews made me pause, and it does involve a great deal more of tubular real estate than the MAP.

I was very tempted by the Dajia Far Bar (and also considered buying another Salsa Bell Lap or current equivalent), but that would have required a new (taller) stem and new brake levers, so we shall see what the MAP bar brings.

Next up: cranks. 

Riv content: I realize that aesthetically the Monocog is not Rivendellian, but it does share at least the traits of steel, simple, durable, and anti-fashion, and the handling suits me fine, whose tastes have been largely formed by 26 years of riding 5 Rivendells. If Riv made a ss that took 700C X 75 mm tires, I'd consider buying one.

On Mon, Feb 15, 2021 at 11:58 AM Patrick Moore <bert...@gmail.com> wrote:

[Patrick Moore]

Well, somtimes things go right. I ordered the MAP bar in black with a 31.8 mm clamp, and the only width in this model is 61 cm, instead of the narrower 57 cm. The mtb bar it replaced was cut down to 53 cm, so I thought 61 cm would be far too wide.

It turns out that, at least for a very brief ride (dark and late), the 61 might just be perfect: sure, wide, but it is that wide only at the ends, which curve back considerably more than the cut down mtb did; very nice for a more relaced sit up position, if not quite as upright as in a perfect world. But the grips at the ends are comfortable and I can always bend my elbows.

And the curves, ahead of the levers, will be perfect for flatland cruising. I must tape that section in a color of startling contrast.

Poor night time photos in cluttered garage.

I've loosened and tightened the 4 small clamp bolt of the very lightweight Ritchey cross stem (so marketed) so often not only are the heads rounding out but the aluminum threads in the lower stem side of the clamp are starting to wear away; I won't be able to adjust bar angles very many more times. I saw little silver aluminum bits on the front fender when I was fiddling with the clamp; took all bolts out, liberally greased threads, worked a stout steel bolt in from the back and cleaned things up sufficiently to get the OEM bolts back in from the front.

But until I swap stem and bar for say a Dajia Far Bar and a more upright stem, it looks as if this will do very well.

Had to lengthen brake cables and housing, but easy job with the low-end Tektro mechanical discs. I don't know why people complain about mechanical disks; not superlative, but as good IME, all told, as most rim brakes, comparing strengths and weaknesses.

Hope to get a real ride in tomorrow.

Also: The cut down bar shown is free for postage. It is 21"/53 mm wide measuring across the arc and not along the bar.

Please reply offlist if interested in old bar. You pay postage.

On Mon, Feb 15, 2021 at 11:58 AM Patrick Moore <bert...@gmail.com> wrote:

[Patrick Moore]

Oh, installed bar flipped b/c (1) upright it would be too high, (2) the curves fit palms better flipped, and (3) it makes the bike look a wee bit like a cafe racer. I've done this to many a North Road bar.