650b Homer

[matt miller]

I wanted to share a few pics of my new (to me) AHH that a number of you helped give thoughts on. I've taken it out a few times, and have really enjoyed it. Definitely need to get the brakes set up better, though! I don't think I've had cantis in 20 years. My feet have been utilized often!!!

I'd love some input on the stem/bars. There's nothing wrong with the stem (VO, I think?), but aesthetically, it looks a little imbalanced because of the frame size with the 650b tires, I think. I'm not sure what the bars are. It's a dull finish. It does feel a little narrow, but I wonder if a different stem may alleviate that feeling.

Paint job definitely looks nicer outside than the seller's photo in his basement.

Also need to give a huge thanks to Jake from Florida for the saddle. You are very generous. There are a couple prints that will be mailed to you this week. Thank you.

Matt in STL

[Joe Bernard]

Man that's a nice bike, I miss the old flat-toptube Toyo and Waterford frames. I personally like the stem but maybe it needs to be longer to stretch those bars away from you a little more, being too close might be why they feel narrow. But I'd ride it a bit first, the fit may work out for you after you've settled into the bike. 

Joe Bernard 

[Steve]

Wow, I really like that understated, elegant color (yes, I'm drooling).    I've seen that style of stem on  circa 1990's MTBs - I've  owned a Trek  that had one like it, though I think it was 1 1/8".   To my eye, with your level top tube a stem with about a neg 17 degree rise would complement the overall lines of the bike. Maybe a Technomic  to give you plenty of stack (assuming you're looking for that much height).   If you are inclined to splurge that gorgeous bike might even merit a lugged Nitto.     Might the pads on the cantis be past their "best if used before" date?   I have never found shoe sole brakes to be very reliable.     Enjoy that bike!!!   

[Luke Hendrickson]

Just. Absolutely. Perfect. 👌🏻

[iamkeith]

Just beautiful.  Well done!

So is this a new old stock saluki that you got to paint and decal the way you wanted?  I really like the color.

Regarding the cantis,  i'm starting to think there's as much witcthcraft as science to getting them right.  Every once in a while I'll set some up, and they won't work well, and I'll realize that I've just been lucky the other times.  I have those same brakes on a bike and find them to be fantastic, so don't give up on them.  Small adjustments in straddle wire length make a big difference, as does the length from the shoe to the part of the brake that it bolts to.  (You can change the later to be either 3mm, 4mm, 5mm or 6mm by rearranging the spherical washers on the stud.  Usually, less is better (Less flex / bigger leverage ratio/start the pull with arms higher), but skinnier rims or wider post spacing sometimes mandate more spacers.  It looks like you can bolt the pads lower in the vertical adjustment slot, and a little lower on the rim, too - which should help.  Again, lower is better. (Think of the leverage ratio to the arm length on other side of the pivot, to where the cable attaches.)  After your cable stretches and shoes bed in, it'll get better.)  Salmon shoes are great but, if you'll only ride in dry weather, you might like normal black ones too.

Shelon Brown and Black Mountain Cycles have articles on canti setup that are worth re-reading every once in a while.

[Matt Miller]

Thank you for your suggestions. 

It is a custom Homer, and it’s a Waterford from about 2014, according to the serial number. It doesn’t have many mounts, actually. I think if i want a rack, I’ll need to use the canti posts. Need to look that up. May be easier to use a frame bag if I need to carry a bunch. I don’t anticipate this being a grocery-getter!

I’ll keep playing with the brakes. I think I’ll have to add more spacers. The rims are pretty narrow. The cables are older and thick. The old pads were worn, so I replaced with thinline, but maybe I should have gotten thicker pads. 

As you can see, recreational marijuana was legalized here, and the front derailleur is super high. I need to address that, as well. The seller told me he tuned it up. Lol.

I think the bars are kind of like albatross/dove. I should measure them. 

Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 13, 2023, at 10:04 AM, iamkeith <keith...@gmail.com> wrote:

Just beautiful.  Well done!

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[iamkeith]

Read the BMC blog I mentioned.  He makes a pretty compelling argument AGAINST using thick pads:

https://blackmtncycles.com/get-the-most-out-of-your-canti-brake/

[lconley]

Unfortunately, the black mountain article is full of such total complete nonsense on geometry "(Pad position on the arm") that I cannot take any of it seriously. Whoever wrote it doesn't have a clue. It doesn't matter how many spacers there are on whatever side of the arm, the arc of the pad travel is defined by the brake pivot and rim contact point. That contact point defines the diameter and direction of the rotation of the pad, regardless of the intervening structure.

Laing

[Matt Miller]

You all know more than I do. I do like Mile’s thoughts, and I enjoy his bikes. 

My impression with canti is that the optimal setup is to have the pads contact the rim at a perpendicular angle, or as close to possible. I also thought he talked about getting the angle between cable and arm at 90 degree angle at rim contact. 

I see Paul ships with thinline. But referencing the old Sheldon Brown site says that Mountain/BMC is improved over the thinline. 

At this point, all i know is that my brakes aren’t working well enough! I’m going to try extra spacers first. Then will try thicker pads if that doesn’t work. I’ll try to get a photo if I can.

Matt

On Feb 13, 2023, at 3:46 PM, lconley <lco...@brph.com> wrote:

Unfortunately, the black mountain article is full of such total complete nonsense on geometry "(Pad position on the arm") that I cannot take any of it seriously. Whoever wrote it doesn't have a clue. It doesn't matter how many spacers there are on whatever side of the arm, the arc of the pad travel is defined by the brake pivot and rim contact point. That contact point defines the diameter and direction of the rotation of the pad, regardless of the intervening structure.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/378ed1da-0d9d-447c-8aca-92e50ff4eec0n%40googlegroups.com.

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