I tried to link it, but it only linked to my groups homepage. For those more familiar with the google groups interface search "How To: Measure Bike Fit Exactly" (OP Reed Kennedy) on the 650b and possibly iBOB too. Really helpful and well written guide. If anyone could post the correct link, that would be great.
Am I the only one wondering why the Clementine doesn't just stay with you? Why the new Clem to replace a perfect one? No justification needed, of course. And the new Clem is clearly superb.
IanA
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On Nov 19, 2019, at 4:11 PM, tc <tdc...@gmail.com> wrote:
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IanA
Alex, lovely! Are they metal, though? I don’t want the noise metal fenders make. I’ll check out the ESI grips!
Stem swap. Alright. I’m going to attempt this today. I will be a nervous wreck the whole time, but I suppose if I really mess something up I can go back to REI and do the walk of shame and maybe the mechanics will think it’s funny instead of pathetic. I *might* got this! 😂
Sent from my iPad
> On Nov 20, 2019, at 6:58 AM, Alex Wirth- Owner, Yellow Haus Bicycles <482...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Leah check out velo orange for fenders...here’s a pic of their 650b wavy fenders on a Clem:
>
> https://www.instagram.com/p/Bx0LvYFBzKD/?igshid=1jmglpf4h6t48
>
> Also check out ESI grips, they’re my fav, come in a TON of colors, musa and they feel “warmer” in colder weather.
>
> A stem swap is fairly easy and you’re totally capable! Slide off your grip/shifters on one side, remove bar, swap stem and reverse install. Set aside 30-60 mins.
>
> You got this!
>
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On Nov 20, 2019, at 8:50 AM, Alex Wirth- Owner, Yellow Haus Bicycles <482...@gmail.com> wrote:
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Regarding stem length and fit; here's an old rule of thumb I've used for 30 plus years:
When on the bike with the seat height property adjusted. Put your hands on the grips. Then look down at the front axle. Ideally, in my experience, your hands & possibly the handlebar itself should be directly in-line. In other words with a line extending from your eyes to the axle, the hands should be in that same plane. If the axle is in front of your hands? then a longer stem, behind? shorter.
On a drop bar typically the bar itself should obscure your view of the axle.
Now I should qualify this; this isn't an official fit rule; It's my own. I've just noticed over time & many, many bikes that it tends to be true.
Ditto for Honjos. Properly installed metal fenders don't rattle.
Installing metal fenders takes time and
patience. It absolutely cannot be hurried. Read the
instructions several times. Visualize. Understand that you
cannot and absolutely must not try to pull metal fenders into
shape with the stays; instead you've got to massage the fender
to alter the curve. Pushing the edges out to widen the opening
tightens the arc of the fender, and squeezing the edges together
expands the arc. You do this little by little over the arc of
the fender.
Also, if your fenders aren't pre-drilled, you absolutely can't tape the fender up once, mark all the holes remove and drill. Do that, and only the first hole will end up in the correct place; everything else will be off, and you'll have to ovalize the holes. What you do instead is mock up the installation and mark the first hole. Remove, drill, install the first hold and mark the next. Remove, drill, re-install, mark the last hole. Remove, drill, reinstall. It's a Zen thing and cannot be rushed. (Try at your own peril - there are countless ways they'll punish you if you do.)
But you end up with a beautiful and functional setup that protects you from road spray better than plastic fenders, and that lasts for years. And quiet.
Incidentally, those eyebolt fasteners VO and
Honjo use are fiddly and fussy and are just dying to fall apart
when you try to install them, so be sure you've got a blanket or
something similar beneath where you're working, otherwise one
some of the pieces will disappear.
These are perfect. I didn't install these, Peter Weigle did.
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-- Steve Palincsar Alexandria, Virginia USA
Personally, I'm for the silver. It looks
beautiful when new, and even when much older (and more beat up
or even oxidized to a matte finish) it still looks good. Black
is just a surface coating, and if the fender gets scratched the
black is going to get scratched off and you'll see the
underlying silver. Here
https://www.flickr.com/photos/smartpublicspace/32918278447/ is
an old bike with fenders that have oxidized to a matte finish.
Even zoomed up to monstro-gigantor size they look great. And
dents wouldn't show!
Ok, you guys (Mas, Alex, DP) have convinced me I need the metal fenders. I’m looking at VO and now should I choose the black or the silver??? I would have never considered black but this Clem seems to beg for it. Which means I need to get a black saddle, ugh. Look again:
Brown grips vs black grips.
Sent from my iPadOn Nov 20, 2019, at 10:01 AM, masmojo <mas...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:Plastic fenders are great until they break or you lose one of the little bits that goes with them. Plus plastic fender make the whole bike look like crap (in my opinion) Regarding stem length and fit; here's an old rule of thumb I've used for 30 plus years: When on the bike with the seat height property adjusted. Put your hands on the grips. Then look down at the front axle. Ideally, in my experience, your hands & possibly the handlebar itself should be directly in-line. In other words with a line extending from your eyes to the axle, the hands should be in that same plane. If the axle is in front of your hands? then a longer stem, behind? shorter. On a drop bar typically the bar itself should obscure your view of the axle. Now I should qualify this; this isn't an official fit rule; It's my own. I've just noticed over time & many, many bikes that it tends to be true. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this topic, visit https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rbw-owners-bunch/x8e3syetp6I/unsubscribe. To unsubscribe from this group and all its topics, send an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/71728f5c-9812-49c9-9079-09bf34174de2%40googlegroups.com.
Plastic fenders are great until they break or you lose one of the little bits that goes with them. Plus plastic fender make the whole bike look like crap (in my opinion)
Regarding the stem; first glance would indicate maybe a longer stem, but I kind of need to consider the LARGE front center; which may mean no.
In a nut shell if the handlebar feel like a tiller, then move the bars forward (longer stem) if it feels too quick, unstable move it back. It's not just about reach.
You're not the only one. Even Rene Herse has
added black fenders to their program:
https://janheine.wordpress.com/2019/09/24/rene-herse-fenders-in-black/
and Peter Weigle's current shop bike sports black fenders
I like black fenders (he says just to be contrary).
-- Steve Palincsar Alexandria, Virginia USA
My Polyvalent has black VO wavy fenders.
On Nov 20, 2019, at 4:24 PM, Mark C <wvfi...@comcast.net> wrote:
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You'll get more seatpost showing, mine is at 'fistful of post' visible. At the stock bars you should have lots of room to go from bolt upright, to all the way to the flats for getting out of the wind. Or if you need a smidge less reach-back just about any other bar will open the cockpit up. I hope this helps and welcome!
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https://docs.google.com/document/d/1lBVAx8HXfPswofv9q6NKFCw9pBrjeOmNxfpfSR3ZDVo/edit?usp=sharing
IanA
Leah, you asked, "But, if I *were* to spurge again and get a new stem, how would I know what size to try next?"Here's one way:
- Position your saddle to where it feels most comfortable/efficient/powerful when pedaling, regardless of your reach to the handlebar.
- Attach a small piece of masking tape on your handlebar such that you can easily remove it.
- While pedaling on a level, safe path or road -- or while seated on your bike but leaning up against a garage wall using your shoulder for balance -- slide one hand backward on the grip until you hit the position that feels right.
- Then with the other hand, remove the tape and mark the location of the front of the hand you've slid backward.
- Measure the distance (in cm) between the front of the grip and the back edge of the masking tape, and subtract that distance from 9 (assuming you currently have a stem with a 9cm reach) to determine the length of the stem you need. Obviously given stem sizes you'll need to round to the nearest cm.
If the distance measured in step 5 is 4cm or less, (IOW, you need a 50mm - 80mm stem), you can get one from Ben's Cycle (Nitto NTC-DX Technomic Deluxe) or elsewhere if you can find it. If it's more than 4cm, then you'll likely need to look into something like an after-market Analog wRight stem with basically a 0mm reach. Either would make a great Christmas stocking stuffer :)When stem buying, pay attention to the stem clamp diameter. Boscos have a 25.4mm diameter where the stem clamps on, and therefore need a stem with a 25.4mm clamp diameter. If the stem you want only comes with a 26mm clamp diameter, you can get shims to make up the difference. Riv sells'em here: https://www.rivbike.com/collections/handlebars/products/nitto-stainless-handlebar-shim-25-4-to-26-0-16095Tom
On Tuesday, November 19, 2019 at 8:48:58 PM UTC-5, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:Tom, the Clems. I’ve got it bad. We have enough in my family and extended family that I think our family crest should be the Clem headbadge. Forget that sewer guy.I’m agonizing over the stem. I just purchased the 90 and paid to have it installed. I wish the bars came just a smidge closer to me, but I don’t think I want to pay for all these things all over again. I compromised and moved my saddle just a tiny bit, and I still think my butt is behind the pedals, so hopefully I’m not screwing up my knees too badly.But, if I *were* to spurge again and get a new stem, how would I know what size to try next? Should I go for an 80 or down to a 70? These are the things that make me so sad I don’t live by anyone I know from this List. Curses!Sent from my iPadOn Nov 19, 2019, at 4:11 PM, tc <tdc...@gmail.com> wrote:Hey Leah, awesome build you have going! If you don't already have one of the Riv Clem posters, you need to get one. You are one with Clem if anyone ever was.As for your reach to the bars, I would humbly suggest NOT adjusting your fore-aft position saddle position just yet. Doing so may not be the right thing for your knees. The optimal and most comfortable butt-to-crank/pedal horizontal dimension should not be compromised to fix a handlebar reach issue if you can help it. Rather, get a shorter stem if you can and try that first. You can actually get a really short reach Nitto Technomic Deluxe long quill stem from Ben's Cycle, all the way down to a 50mm reach for $66: https://www.benscycle.com/nitto-ntc-dx-technomic-deluxe-long-quill-stem/stem_nitto_ntc-dxlong_870/product
As I write this, they have 2 in stock.Tom
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On Nov 20, 2019, at 9:46 PM, Mark Roland <absolut...@gmail.com> wrote:
Exactly! A little pop of color at the end of the bars is what I was looking for when I got the Rivendell Hunt-Wilde grips for my latest Schwinn Le Tour mixte aka Cheviut wannabe.(I was trying to avoid the two prevailing colorways for orange bikes--Creamsicle and Halloween. I think I succeeded if I do say so...) The H-Bs are not quite as fat and juicy as the grips on my old 5-speed Schwinn Suburban, but very comfy nevertheless. If you can't handle the red, there is black.
<IMG_20191018_133850795.jpg>Couple more shots: https://photos.app.goo.gl/KqSiPQjPygLfbpJB9
On Wednesday, November 20, 2019 at 2:13:00 PM UTC-5, Alex Wirth- Owner, Yellow Haus Bicycles wrote:I mean, what’s wrong with blue, “limited” or aqua? Grips are usually a place I look for a little pop of color...
https://esigrips.com/mtb-grips/extra-chunky-blue
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<IMG_20191018_133850795.jpg>
Wavy fenders are very classy. I dig em!
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I love what you’ve done here! The saddle and fenders! 😍 Does the blue rub off the Brooks? Seems I’ve seen a photo where it did...Sent from my iPhoneOn Nov 20, 2019, at 9:46 PM, Mark Roland <absolut...@gmail.com> wrote:
--Exactly! A little pop of color at the end of the bars is what I was looking for when I got the Rivendell Hunt-Wilde grips for my latest Schwinn Le Tour mixte aka Cheviut wannabe.(I was trying to avoid the two prevailing colorways for orange bikes--Creamsicle and Halloween. I think I succeeded if I do say so...) The H-Bs are not quite as fat and juicy as the grips on my old 5-speed Schwinn Suburban, but very comfy nevertheless. If you can't handle the red, there is black.<IMG_20191018_133850795.jpg>Couple more shots: https://photos.app.goo.gl/KqSiPQjPygLfbpJB9
On Wednesday, November 20, 2019 at 2:13:00 PM UTC-5, Alex Wirth- Owner, Yellow Haus Bicycles wrote:I mean, what’s wrong with blue, “limited” or aqua? Grips are usually a place I look for a little pop of color...
https://esigrips.com/mtb-grips/extra-chunky-blue
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Yes exactly! Thanks.
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So you get the fenders you like and the PDW safety tabs Patrick mentioned, nine bucks a set, and you quit angsting.
https://ridepdw.com/products/full-metal-fenders-safety-tabs?variant=24829153601#
Fenders: Riv says no, the SKS 50 will not work with Big Ben. Tight clearance that will be noisy and troublesome. I’m back to hand-wringing about safety vs beauty. The metal fenders that have the breakaways are...ugly... I know how that comes off (vain, silly), but I am, after all, a born and raised North Dakotan, and therefore practicality usually rules. But oh, I’m tempted to get the wavy metal fenders....
On Nov 21, 2019, at 2:56 PM, Steve Palincsar <pali...@his.com> wrote:
So you get the fenders you like and the PDW safety tabs Patrick mentioned, nine bucks a set, and you quit angsting.
<dcglbhpddcceepfn.png>
https://ridepdw.com/products/full-metal-fenders-safety-tabs?variant=24829153601#
On 11/21/19 5:44 PM, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:
Fenders: Riv says no, the SKS 50 will not work with Big Ben. Tight clearance that will be noisy and troublesome. I’m back to hand-wringing about safety vs beauty. The metal fenders that have the breakaways are...ugly... I know how that comes off (vain, silly), but I am, after all, a born and raised North Dakotan, and therefore practicality usually rules. But oh, I’m tempted to get the wavy metal fenders....-- Steve Palincsar Alexandria, Virginia USA
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Here's what they look like installed:
The end of the fender stay simply fits into the tab. That should work with any fender stay that is of the appropriate diameter. I don't know what diameter PDW uses for its fender stays, but you should be able to find that out with an email or phone call; ditto for VO. Neither seems to indicate the fender stay diameter on their web sites. Honjo uses a 5mm stay and it's very likely so too do PDW and VO. PDW's number is (503) 234-7257
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On Nov 21, 2019, at 3:12 PM, Steve Palincsar <pali...@his.com> wrote:
Here's what they look like installed:
<bdfafinojfcdahid.png>
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Plastic R-Clamps from Gilles Berthoud are useful if you want a quick release on your fender stays: The plastic clamp will release the fender stay if the fender crumbles. This is useful if your fenders are mounted with less-than-optimal clearances. (If you have the recommended 20+ mm clearance between tire and fender, there is little risk of a fender collapsing and jamming into the fork crown.)
Why not use the plastic R-Clamps on all bikes? When you ride on rough roads, the stays can work loose over time. Check them periodically to make sure.
That's an R clip. On this bicycle they're used in back to facilitate removal of the split rear half of the fender. Loosen the allen bolt, undo the wing nut
separate the back half of the fender, and pull it right off for Rinko packing. If you leave them loose, on impact the stays can slide in the clip.
I know this first hand. One Bike Virginia I had just climbed a hill and recognized there on top of the hill by the side of the road taking a break a guy I'd known back 20 years ago and hadn't seen in all that time. So I stopped to chat, and while I was standing there talking with him, somebody else climbed the hill and lost control, went off the road and rode into the back of my bike. When I rode down the hill I noticed a tremendous amount of drag, so I stopped and discovered when he'd rammed into me the rear fender had slid forward and was actually contacting the tire.
So maybe if you keep it fairly loose, you could use an R clip as a break-away device.
Patrick Moore, are you going to ruin this for me? Oh fine, I just ordered the breakaways (they’re a grand total of $11 and change with shipping) and then I have them, come what may.
A tip: The very nice guy on the phone said they have very few left in the shop; get them now! If they are out he said you can have your shop try to get them from a distributor. Or something.
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On Nov 21, 2019, at 5:43 AM, in Dallas nick <trueg...@att.net> wrote:
Probably a goofy thought butif one preferred the name Clementinewould it fit if a bike decal maker made a same size / color decals of ' entine 'to mount beside the current Clem decals?Someone may have already thrown that idea out there for consideration.Paul in Dallas
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I really doubt that's what they're supposed to look like - looks like the sides were squashed together - maybe something heavy was put on top of the box during shipment. Two possibilities:
1) contact VO
2) you could try un-squashing the edges. VO says they're aluminum, so you won't have to heat it, just spread the edges with your fingers.
Actually, regardless of how you feel about (2) go ahead and do (1) anyway.
Hi All, who can tell me if the fenders I ordered are damaged?
One end of one fender looks pinched. The box isn’t damaged. Is there a reason for it? Can a mechanic heat and bend it or will it look stupid? The fenders are packaged one inside the other. Just so you can understand what you’re looking at...
The bike isn’t being serviced until Saturday so advise me quick and I may get another set before then!
On Nov 26, 2019, at 2:44 PM, Leah Peterson <jonasa...@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi All, who can tell me if the fenders I ordered are damaged?
One end of one fender looks pinched. The box isn’t damaged. Is there a reason for it? Can a mechanic heat and bend it or will it look stupid? The fenders are packaged one inside the other. Just so you can understand what you’re looking at...
The bike isn’t being serviced until Saturday so advise me quick and I may get another set before then!
<image0.jpeg><image1.jpeg><image2.jpeg>
Sent from my iPhoneOn Nov 21, 2019, at 5:43 AM, in Dallas nick <trueg...@att.net> wrote:Probably a goofy thought butif one preferred the name Clementinewould it fit if a bike decal maker made a same size / color decals of ' entine 'to mount beside the current Clem decals?Someone may have already thrown that idea out there for consideration.Paul in Dallas--
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I’m not crying you’re crying.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Nov 26, 2019, at 3:15 PM, Steve Palincsar <pali...@his.com> wrote:
>
>
>> On 11/26/19 6:02 PM, 'Eric Norris' via RBW Owners Bunch wrote:
>> Is that the front part of the rear fender that attaches to the chainstay bridge between the chainstays? Perhaps it’s supposed to be narrowed like that to fit between the stays?
>
>
> I doubt it: squashed in the way it is now, it would bind on any but the narrowest tire. And anyway I've never seen a fender come pre-indented for the chain stays, and that's not what a stay indentation looks like. http://notfine.com/bikes/articles/MetalFenders-BQ34.pdf see p. 3 for indenting fender for chainstay
>
> --
>
> Steve Palincsar
> Alexandria, Virginia
> USA
>
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Even worse when it's 9 pm and you're installing shift cables and you mistake the front and rear cables, install the rear cable in the front shifter and cut it to size... and then try to install the other one in the rear.
Momma said there'd be days like this...
I’ve had my 2019 blue Clem L for a few weeks now, but it’s taken me awhile to get it set up for me. It’s still very much a work in progress, but it’s really turning out to be a spectacular bicycle. As I discussed in a previous post A Tale of Two Clems, this new Clem is quite different than my 2015 Clementine. The Clementine fit me like a glove with zero need for adjustments. The new Clem is much longer, which changed a lot for me. I needed a shorter stem (went from a 12 to a 9...or something), and even so, I’m probably going to scoot my Brooks a bit forward because I *still* want the grips closer to me. I’m 5’6” with an 83 cm PBH, but I wonder if the 45 would have fit me like my old Clementine does.The Clem also boasts the fancy seat lug I adore, cream fills in the lugwork, slimmer, lithe-looking tubes and a gorgeous metallic blue paint that no camera can capture. The bike just begs for blue and more blue, and I’ve answered it. I’ve come to think of it as the 50 Shades of Blue Bike.I got it back from the shop yesterday. It has the new stem, a Nitto Basket Rack, the Big Bens stolen from the Clementine, and was supposed to have the Clementine’s fenders. The mechanic got the message mixed up and didn’t install them, so the Clem is fenderless for now. The same day my Randi Jo bag arrived, so I added that (the patch was a gift from our Roberta and a perfect accessory to the bag) and put all my Sackville on the Clem. This bike is now FORMIDABLE. What can it not do for me now?I took it out for an hour last night and laughed in the dark for most of the ride. It is so much FUN. The Clem glides along, confident and strong. It feels masculine, like its whisking me away somewhere, and I feel like I’m in good hands. This is huge for me. I do a lot of hand-wringing when I get a new bike, or even a new bike PART (I cried when I wore out my first set of tires on the Betty and had to get new ones). I wonder if I’ve made a mistake. I have visions of the bike falling apart underneath me as I ride down the mountain on our school route. I rode the Betty exclusively for nearly 7 years and it never let me down, so the Clem has a lot of live up to. So far, so good.I took it to the boys’ school today loaded with: 2 U-locks, a lunchbox, a laptop, a violin, a clarinet and my small personal effects. No sweat! The bike shifts effortlessly, climbs just great and doesn’t complain about the weight it carries.I’m still figuring out what grips I want (these black Ergon grips are nice, but I need brown) and what fenders to get. The SKS on the Clementine are fat and floppy looking, and the mechanic says the measurements are nearly the same for the new bike. Meaning, the fenders are going to look just as sloppy on the Clem, so he didn’t install them. I’ve got the Big Ben tires; does anyone have a suggestion for good fenders (not metal) that will be a nicer fit? I love how well the SKS fit and look on my Betty.Below are photos from yesterday. You can see the new bike along with the other 2 I currently have. I’m really more of a 2 bike person, so I’ll likely be selling the Clementine soon. I also made a fun 1 minute video of my “shakedown ride” last night but I’m not sure you can view it on this platform. Knowing that it’s goofy and not at all academic, PM me if you want to view it anyway and I’ll send it to you. Or, find me on Instagram. It’s a regular party over there!Leah