Anyone else a paranoid mechanic?

[Ben Mihovk]

Hey all!

I just threw on Schwalbe Marathon Winter tires (700x40) on the Atlantis. Sad to see the Shikoros all deflated and and sitting in the corner, but it was either they take a timeout or I don't ride to work. Easy choice.

So I've been riding as an adult over a year now and started with an affordable Linus with 28mm tires and promptly got a flat my third or fourth time out on it. I took the wheel over, unseated the bead, got the tube out, patched it, put it back in, reseated the bead, yadda yadda yadda, BOOM. No issue. Had another flat this last summer and had to repair it while on the way home from picking up a crowler of beer...very stressful, almost lost my wrench, but got it done, not a problem! 

Later this last summer as piece-by-piece Riv'd up my Linus, I wen to 35mm tires. Took off the old ones, did all the steps, and as I was pumping up the front tire, the tube blew out (some tube was under the bead...DOH!). So I laughed it off, changed the tube, did the rear wheel, and went out for a ride. All was going well, then on a fast descent, when I started breaking I heard an awful thud-thud-thud-thud that was getting louder and BANG! I screwed up the back wheel, too! So re-did both tires, used soapy water, thought about using talc, but I couldn't find any locally and Sheldon Brown says it does nothing...I never had another problem.

So I guess I'm wondering this (if you've managed to read this far)...at what point can you be absolutely sure that tube is not pinched between bead and rim? Can you ever be sure? is my bike a ticking time bomb? :)

Just wanted to share my neurotic thoughts as I rode to work, traversing ice for the first time ever! 

Ben "IT'S GONNA BLOW" in Omaha

[lconley]

There are two things.

One. Push the entire tire, both sides, to the center of the rim off of the bead seat before inflating so that you can see that there is no tube under the tire.

Two. inflate the tire in stages - 1st inflate the tire to 15-20 PSIG and then inspect the tire to rim interface. On all tires, there is a molded-in, small, raised line around the tire just above the tire-rim interface. At low pressures, this may still be below the rim, if there are any places where this line is a noticeable distance from the rim, it may indicate a problem - deflate, inspect, adjust. As you raise the pressure in stages the line should eventually even out at a constant distance from the rim as it seats on the rim - you can pull on the tire at the low and intermediate pressures to help it out. Some tires seat immediately, some require a lot of fiddling. It may require going to the tire maximum pressure to seat the tire. Then you can release pressure as required. This is generally only required for new tires, they kind of take a set as they break in and stretch.

Laing

Still uses tubes

[Ben Mihovk]

Hey Laing!

Thanks for that write up! Most of those are the tips/things I definitely did after my downhill blowout. I'll likely try the max PSI trick and inspect the raised line again. I think I got it nailed and figured out, I just wondered if anyone who checks the boxes and learns from their mistakes still has that creeping feeling that it's all going to fall apart. 

Thanks again!

Ben

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[lconley]

I mainly worry the 1st time I ride a set of wheels that I built myself down a long hill or mountain.

Laing

[Joe Bernard]

Oh yes, I worry. Especially because - after decades of doing this stuff - I still have a terrible habit of snugging the bars in the stand and telling myself I'll get back to that bolt later to make sure it's tight. I always forget and my first ride is always met with the bars slipping in the first few feet. I can't trust my mechanic!

Joe Bernard 

[Andrew Turner]

DIYing tubeless the first couple times gave me a similar pit in my stomach when test riding. The sound of the tires in motion started raising the alarm but alas, no drama. And nobody forgets seating their tires the first time...now that's a jolt. At least with tubeless, the tire seats at low pressures vs tubed which sometimes don't seat until you're 10psi past the max. Snap Crackle Pop at 100psi? Thanks, I hate it! 

I've never had any wacky experiences like you're describing with tubes (thank god) , but a fantastic tip I picked up is to throw some baby powder on the tube before installing it. It keeps it from deforming/twisting when you're getting the tire on there which is great for the ornery ones, plus that added step goes a long way towards peace of mind...placebo or not. Another thing I prefer doing is using tubes that are a little small for the tire. So like a 25-28mm inner tube for a 32 or even a 35mm tire. (decent quality tubes though, never tried off-brand Amazon or latex this way.) That plus baby powder means there is no chance the inner tube is twisting and it makes installing the tire usually tool-free. 

- Andrew

[Ed Carolipio]

Definitely can relate to this paranoia. Laing's tips are great. One minor enhancement: rotate the wheel and lightly bounce it on the ground as you're pumping it up in the early stages. That helps seat the tire bead and center the tube in the tire.

--Ed C.

[Robert Hakim]

" I still have a terrible habit of snugging the bars in the stand and telling myself I'll get back to that bolt later to make sure it's tight."

I had to make a hard rule for myself to stop doing this after I finger-tightened stem bolts just tight enough to not move before I mounted and kicked off on a fresh build. Thankfully there was a door frame to stop me (the bike, really, since it was in charge of where we were going)  before I went through the open door and down a decline into the street.

But yes, paranoia-anxiety, ect... I take pills for that sort of thing now, and even with calmed 'nerves' I have learned that the "double-triple check" is a good friend of mine indeed! After a bad crash I learned that if some mechanical issue is preventing me from enjoying my well earned descent I will stop and check on it. Minutes before my crash I had eyed a parking lot and thought "I should stop and check on things"- and I wish I had! 

Robert "Looks both ways... TWICE!" Hakim

SLC, UT

[dougP]

Confirming a couple of points made:  high quality tubes are worth the money; inflating in stages & checking for the tube trying to escape; baby powder seems to help, plus it leaves your wheels smelling all fresh & clean. 

Mistakes:  after decades, I think I've made all the mistakes that could be made, but every year I find another one to watch for. 

dougP

On Wednesday, December 16, 2020 at 6:11:36 AM UTC-8 bjmi...@gmail.com wrote:

[Eric Daume]

I leave my bars noticeably crooked when the bike is in the stand so I know I will have to straighten and tighten them before my test ride. 

Eric

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[Paul Brodek]

Hey now, this is truly schmart. Crooked = not snug.

Paul Brodek

Hillsdale, NJ USA

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[Pam Bikes]

In additon to all of the above, I like to put a little bit of air in the new tube prior to putting it in so that it doesn't get twisted.  Just enough to hold its shape.  Don't screw on the locking nut too much if you use them, it'll stress the valve stem.  Take your time and sit down and be methodical.  I don't like getting flats so I have Schwalbe Marathon Supremes.  I don't have many flats on my bike but have had plenty on my family's bikes to repair.  BTW I patch all my tubes - some more than once.  And ride with them.  

On Wednesday, December 16, 2020 at 9:11:36 AM UTC-5 bjmi...@gmail.com wrote:

[EverRed]

Pump the tire up until it’s slightly firm, then squeeze it as you peak between rim and tire and you will see if the tube is pinched.  Of course go around the whole wheel on both sides.

On Wednesday, December 16, 2020 at 9:11:36 AM UTC-5 bjmi...@gmail.com wrote:

[johnboy]

All of the above and then I spin the wheel with tire at pressure and look for any wobbles, bulges or such in the tire. If something is amiss , reduce pressure and check for tube under the bead or pull on the tire to achieve that sometimes elusive evenness with rim. Spin and repeat as needed. John