H4/Facebook problem

[flob...@gmail.com]

I started a thread on Facebook to which I recv'd several helpful replies about a problem with an H4 but now my facebook account has been suspended, i don't what rule I have broken as I only opened the account this week and that thread was the only one I have commented on so I'll continue on here.

I have now checked and there is no spark after engine stalls and i try to restart it, however if the engine stalls after running for a only a few seconds I can restart it. It occurred to me that the immobilizer could be causing the problem but I tried resetting it and the LED that shows it is off is lit and car will not start.

After writing the above I tried starting the car from cold without turning the immobilizer off and the car started ran for 10-20 sec stalled and would not restart. So perhaps the immobiliser is the problem?

[Matthew Wastell]

Hi,  you are Russ aren’t you?

Just checked Facebook group and no Russ has joined in the last month according to the logs.  And don’t recall any posts about non starting recently. 

Were you in this group?

Good luck with the car. 

Matthew

On 8 Oct 2023, at 19:08, flob...@gmail.com <flob...@gmail.com> wrote:



I started a thread on Facebook to which I recv'd several helpful replies about a problem with an H4 but now my facebook account has been suspended, i don't what rule I have broken as I only opened the account this week and that thread was the only one I have commented on so I'll continue on here.

I have now checked and there is no spark after engine stalls and i try to restart it, however if the engine stalls after running for a only a few seconds I can restart it. It occurred to me that the immobilizer could be causing the problem but I tried resetting it and the LED that shows it is off is lit and car will not start.

After writing the above I tried starting the car from cold without turning the immobilizer off and the car started ran for 10-20 sec stalled and would not restart. So perhaps the immobiliser is the problem?

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[flob...@gmail.com]

Sorry forgot to add my name to the above post.

Russ

[Jim Hearne]

I replied to you here last night but that message seems to have disappeared as well.

Have you been upsetting the Internet !

 

I will redo the reply later.

 

Jim

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/quantumowners/86666ca8-9ab4-4918-a850-0db580c6c6cen%40googlegroups.com.

[Jim Hearne]

Ah, no, i got caught out by the reply to group or reply to sender that Google does sometimes.

So everybody else can see:

You say you started it without turning the immobilizer off ?, i assume this is an after market one and not the PATS system from your donor car.
Though depending on the age of the donor you may not have PATS, do you have a Red key or a Black Key with a red dot on it.

IT could be an after marker immobilizer playing up.
When it stalls and wont restart, check the voltage on the centre pin of the 3 pin plug on the ignition coil, there should be 12 to 13 volts there.
If you still have voltage there i would go back to suspecting the crank sensor, the symptoms do fit with that.
If you have no voltage then suspect the immobilizer, bypass it if you can.

Jim

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[flob...@gmail.com]

Yes it has a TOAD immobilizer. Have both types of key only ever used key with red patch.

Tried to start car this morning without unsetting  the immobiliser engine did not start  unset immobiliser with fob, engine started first time as always, revs up and down but not as bad as previously some misfiring but as the temp gauge started to move tickover settled at about 1000 rpm and engine still missing; waited for engine to stall - it did not, switched off and restarted

every time but still misfiring, disconnected one plug at time but engine still started every time, thought missing was worse when plug 1 or 4 disconnected (not really an obvious difference so perhaps just my imagination) so changed coil pack & leads no difference, forgot to change plugs, will do that just in case.

Russ

[Jim Hearne]

Ok, sounds like the TOAD immobilizer is doing what it’s supposed to.

I would put money on the crank sensor given the misfire that isn’t tied to a specific cylinder.

When they fail they start by misfiring then fail completely when hot.

 

Jim

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[flob...@gmail.com]

Thanks for the advice so far. Today I found the sensor (eventually) it's hidden behind by what appears to be part of an EGR  system and just above the starter motor. I see no reason I can't remove the device and blank off the exhaust and inlet manifold connexions, does this seem reasonable? 

Russ

[Jim Hearne]

Yup, that’s it, its a bit fiddly.

Last one i did i did from below, i removed the starter motor bolts and moved the starter to one side. 

I didn’t disconnect the starter wires as the nuts were so rusty they didn’t look like they would come undo without something breaking.

Only 1 bolt (torx unless it’s been changed) holds the black sensor on, the aluminium bit stays on the block and is fitted from inside the gearbox bellhousing

The main issue is if the aluminium part has corroded onto the sensor.

 

A lot of people (me included) do remove the EGR, blank off the 4 holes in the exhaust manifold (or get an earlier manifold one without the holes) and remove the gubbins, pipework, differential pressure sensor and i think a solenoid valve.

 

Jim

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/quantumowners/154ea8d5-0a33-48d5-8fd6-d1fd2c51920en%40googlegroups.com.

[flob...@gmail.com]

Today after taking the cooling fan out I removed the EGR junk and got the sensor out working from above without too much difficulty. The new sensor and 4 blanking plugs should arrive before the end of the week.

[flob...@gmail.com]

New crank sensor and blanking plugs fitted, fired up first time revs went to about 1500 and then died down and settled at 1100 rpm with no misfire; just need to let it warm up and set idle, haven't time to that today.

Thanks for your help Jim.

Russ

[Jim Hearne]

Sounds promising.

If the battery has been off then it will take about 20mins for the ECU to relearn it’s settings.

The idle should adjust itself through the idle control valve unless you have been adjusting the throttle stop which you shouldn’t really.

You may have fun adjusting it back as the ecu will be fighting you.

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[flob...@gmail.com]

Adjusting tickover was easier than I was expecting, started ,screwed out adjuster 1 turn, let it idle until up to temperature, 1/4 turn out, let it idle and it quickly settled down to nice steady beat, I don't know the exact rpm but it sounds right and tacho shows just under 1k rpm.

Thanks for the help.

Russ