Saloon rear ARB mounting hardware

[John R]

Hi All

Are the saloon rear ARB brackets, P clamps etc. custom QSC or standard Fiesta MK2?  I do have a build manual but it does not seem to specify.

Currently running what looks like a standard XR2 ARB 14mm diameter but as I will be rebuilding rear suspension soon thinking of upgrading it.

John

[Jim Hearne]

On the saloon only the ARB itself and the rubber bushes are Mk2 Fiesta.

There are no mounting brackets like on the Fiesta, the clamps bolt directly to the floor.

And the Clamps are top hat shaped clamps with 2 bolts rather than P shaped with 1 bolt on the Fiesta

From memory they came from Mk3 Fiesta but i might be wrong.

 

Jim

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[kynastonp .]

Early cars used a modified fiesta clamp with an extra bolt hole bracket welded on to make the clamp symmetrical . I thought the u clamp on later cars was MK3 escort but experience says Jim is probably correct.

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From: quantu...@googlegroups.com <quantu...@googlegroups.com> on behalf of Jim Hearne <j...@quantums.info>
Sent: Monday, November 2, 2020 10:45:47 AM
To: quantu...@googlegroups.com <quantu...@googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Saloon rear ARB mounting hardware

 

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[susanandmartin]

I used a later part…. Details below from my list

 

Bracket-anti roll bar

96FB

5488

AA

1003610

Fiesta 96 part

 

Martin Scott

 

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From: John R
Sent: 31 October 2020 16:21
To: Quantum Owners Group
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Saloon rear ARB mounting hardware

 

Hi All

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[Jim Hearne]

That may have been what i was thinking of as well.

Obviously wouldn’t have been the original part Quantum used as the Mk4 Fiesta wasn’t around then.

 

JIm

From: susanandmartin

Sent: Monday, November 2, 2020 11:14 AM

To: quantu...@googlegroups.com

Subject: RE: [Quantum Owners] Saloon rear ARB mounting hardware

 

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[Darren Siepka]

I am just replacing/ updating the rear bar on my 2+2 which is the same as the saloon.

I am using a BMW rear bar from E60/61.

There are several sizes ranging from a 12mm to a 18mm depending on engine size.

It is narrower so you need new brackets on the axle

But they are cheap, very cheap.

According to the roll bar calculator a 12 mm works out the same torsional rating as our 14mm, the 18mm I got from an M5 calculates as being just over twice nearly three times! I also have a 12mm so will see how the two differ.

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[susanandmartin]

It may be that later ones have the same part (but with a different part number), but IIRC they changed to a twist beam with no separate ARB. Anything over a few years old will possibly be difficult to obtain.

BTW how did the Land Rover servo fit on the Q03?

Martin

 

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[Jim Hearne]

 

The Mk3 /4 Fiestas with twist beam still had a rear ARB on the XR2i and RS1800i models.

I guess it was easier to add the ARB (it’s only fixed to the twist beam) than to uprate the twist beam itself.

 

I thought i posted an update on the Land Rover servo.

 

It’s fitted and should work.

The 2 main issues were that it has the master cylinder studs at a different angle relative to the mounting studs compared to the Ford servo.

This meant that the master cylinder was at an angle.

I modified the servo mounting bracket to rotate the servo so the master cylinder studs were at the correct angle.

 

Also, as you already know, the input pushrod to the servo has an eye fixing on it instead of a fork.

I made a 2 part fork assembly that bolted over the existing eye on the servo and converted it to a fork.

 

I also had to move the servo mounting brackets across the bulkhead by about 20mm to get the servo to clear the side of the engine bay.

And cut and shorten the transfer bar for the same reason, it was already cut and welded with some dubious welds so i didn’t mind redoing it.

 

Jim

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[Jim Hearne]

[Darren Siepka]

Without wanting to stray the thread too much , I will be posting my report on my latest servo master cyl conversion soon after I complete testing.i have used a mgf setup(y2000). I have also installed all the abs gubbins too ! If it doesn't behave then it will just get unplugged and the hardware will behave like a normal servod system.

Back to the brackets, on my first 2+2 the brackets supplied were clearly made in house, the ones on my wife's car are OEM.

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[susanandmartin]

Surprised they are narrower (BMW probably being a wider car), the 18mm one will possibly cause all sorts of stability problems. I recall fitting lower rated front springs to my Calvy Mitchel, which resulted in more body roll (than the MGB GT ones previously fitted) and the result was a much nicer handling (less understeer). The guy who fitted huge anti-roll bars to his probably ended up unable to get around bends! Someone once stated “we moved away from solid axles to independent suspension, and then put anti-roll bars on, thus reverting back to solid axles!” That’s an extreme statement, but indicates that there’s a happy medium to aim for.

 

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[susanandmartin]

That servo installation looks good – did it  need a new mounting bracket and a change to the transfer tube?

Martin

 

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[list...@liberator-systems.co.uk]

Darren you seem to have a talent for finding and adapting parts ;-)...

Can I ask how did you arrive at the BMW bar solution - trawling through scrapyards or did you find some reference material regarding bar dimensions on different cars?

I started searching by just by looking at photos of various bars which have similar shape/proportions. Mazda MX5 front was one candidate although I haven't measured one up yet.

John

[Darren Siepka]

So here is a picture showing a comparison of the xr2 Vs the 12mm E60 bar.

I found it by lots and lots of picture comparing on the net, then took a gamble on the 12mm which was just £12 delivered!

I have designed some extension arms to go onto the original ends , this will offer adjustability and reduce its torsion rating.

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[susanandmartin]

Yes…… I now remember seeing the ARB ‘added’ to the twist beam and thinking it was a bit strange. Nice work with the servo – mine was a much easier swap for the Escort one on the Rickman.

Martin

 

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From: Jim Hearne
Sent: 02 November 2020 15:35
To: quantu...@googlegroups.com

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[list...@liberator-systems.co.uk]

£12 is certainly cheap for a BMW part! Will be interesting to see how this looks when you get it all installed and of course how it performs. Pretty sure I will need to follow a similar route  My rear (suspension that is) ) needs a good working over - needs shorter springs (the ride height is way too high - the rear has the 4*4 look which seems common on Quantum saloons) - needs an adjustable panhard rod (axle is quite offset) - needs new trailing arms and poly bushing all round....

[susanandmartin]

The panhard rod doesn’t need to adjustable, just needs ‘adjusting’ to the correct length to get the axle central. I did this on mine, and the only bushes I could get were poly, so they will be also fitted..

martin

 

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Sent: 03 November 2020 12:40
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[Darren Siepka]

The offset axle is quite common, easy fix cut and fit an adjuster turnbuckle in the panard rod.

I am about to modify a 2+2 panhard rod using the adjuster cut from a mazda6 tie rod. I will post more on that soon

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[list...@liberator-systems.co.uk]

@Martin. I guess you adjusted your axle position by moving/modifying panhard rod mounts mounts? For me an adjustable rod (diy or buy) seems a better way to go particularly as I am likely to be experimenting with different rear springs which will necessitate tweaking the rod length.
John

[susanandmartin]

Just by measuring the gap between each wheel and its adjacent trailing arm, and calculating the adjustment to get the axle central – welding some thick washers to the mounting bracket that fits on the boot floor, and re-doing the bracket hole. This was in preference to re-doing the boot floor GRP and redrilling the holes in the boot floor.  The only difference introduced by the springs is if the panhard rod moves by rotation from the horizontal position, which of course it will do when the suspension wheels go up/down anyway. Arguably (if the measurements are taken when the panhard rod is horizontal) it could be prudent to adjust the panhard rod a ‘little long’ because any suspension movement up/down will tend to effectively ‘shorten’ it , thus moving the axle towards the right. An other (more accurate/heavier) way would be fit a watts linkage, which will keep the axle central.  At the end of the day from (my albeit simple) calculation it appears (ignoring rubber/poly ‘squash’) there is only about 3mm ‘movement’ due to panhard rod during suspension travel (someone will maybe prove me wrong?)

Martin

 

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