how to remove the diesel fuel tank from a P31-2

[Last Resort]

I really can't believe no one else here has ever had to do so, but as no one offered a method, I'll provide a detailed guideline to do so. 

In order, from the aft cabin I removed the fuel filter assembly intact, the return hose (had to cut it), the outlet hose at the filter (easy to remove and plugged keeps any diesel from getting out) and the green ground wire attached to the filter mount. Of course I had to clear away some zip ties and other wires from hoses and area. Then you just need a LONG Philips screwdriver to remove 4 screws from the hold down straps in the aft cabin area. No need to remove the ones in the cockpit locker. Then removed the vent line (had to cut it) and the fuel intake hose (easy to remove) accessed through the cockpit locker. Now the tank is loose and ready to come out, BUT the wall between the aft cabin and the cockpit locker won't let that happen. So the right way is to remove that wall should you see fit. Once removed, the Tank will come right out no issues. BUT my wall has my whole Reactor AP installed onto it, as are many other items. Also, you'll need to find ALL the screws holding it in place, plus I'm sure removing other moldings and such. I decided to use a Sawzall and cut away enough to get it out. I started by cutting out 2" from the bow end of the tank and all the way back to the 2 connections in the locker. Tricky at this point now as you need to avoid the metal connections with the blade. I went up another 3" and cleared them. The first cut was right around them, but that wasn't enough. Once the tank starts coming out, it needs to go aft and out, and now the 2 connections are further back, so in the end I cut back at least another 4" behind them. Once they cleared the cuts, the tank came right out!!!  I plan to repair/cover up the cuts with a very thin type of metal ( Any other suggestions welcome).  It will be 6" high at the back angling down to 4" at the center point of the 40" long that it will take to restore the 2" on the bottom all the way, make sure of course that the metal doesn't touch or is insulated from the tank. So that's about it. Any questions, just ask!

LR

[Bill Robart]

From your description it sounds like the tank straps were held down with wood screws. If so I think I'd do something a bit more robust so you assure there will be no movement of the tank. Have another hole from chafe wouldn't be good. While you're at it I'd also replace a all of the rubber fuel lines. That way you'll know they are in good shape.

I'd be fearful of repairing the bulkhead with metal. Perhaps a nice  removeable wooden panel would do the trick. Better yet replace the entire bulkhead during the winter. 

Bill 

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "pearson-boats" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to pearson-boats+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to pearso...@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/pearson-boats.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

[Peter Ogilvie]

I doubt that the puka was caused by chafe.  More likely that salt water found its way there and caused it to corrode.  When anks corrode where they are resting against something its usually that water gets trapped by the intruding floor/support that’s touching the tank.  On my last boat had SS water tanks develop pinholes in a few years as they were in the bilge under the floor boards resting on the ballast.  Even though the boat had an anmple deep sump for water to drain to, water still flowed under the tanks on its way to the sump.  Same thing happened to the black iron fuel saddle tanks that lived well up under the cockpit seat and water accumulation was mostly condensation.

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "pearson-boats" group.

To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to pearson-boat...@googlegroups.com.

[Dan Pfeiffer]

There's not a lot of salt water in Lake Huron but there is a significant off season where water in the bottom of the aluminum tank could lead to pitting in the aluminum tank from the inside.  I would have a good look inside the tank and maybe look into a coating for the inside.  I have seen them though I don't know what is involved in the proper application.   This is one:
https://www.kbs-coatings.com/tank-sealer-directions.html
I have used KBS corrosion treatment products and they seem to work very well.  But I would do some research.  I should have looked into it when I did the fiberglass patch on my aluminum tank.  

I wonder if it would be worth considering insulating the tank to reduce the potential for condensation especially in a region like North Chanel where you get wide daily temperature swings even in the summer. 

As for repairing the bulkhead, if you need some patching material I would look at the thin fiberglass sheets McMaster Carr sells.  Like this stuff:
https://www.mcmaster.com/#fiberglass-plastic/=1e25v3r
Look at the electrical grade which comes in thinner sheets than the structural and would be fine for your patching.


Dan Pfeiffer

[sides...@aol.com]

Was wondering if anyone has replaced or found an exact replacement for the deck scupper on a 31-2.  The drain/ scupper is located on the deck near the front of the cockpit.  I think that they are the same size as the 2 in the floor of the cockpit. They are plastic and I have one that is broken.

Thanks

Bob

Blue Moon 31-2

[Dave Cole]

Well, you probably don't want to do this again next year... so...

I would have a very good look inside the tank. If you can't get a
clear view with a scope, I would not hesitate to cut a larger
opening/s in the top of the tank to inspect it.

Looking for corrosion inside the tank via the fill port, might be a
problem since there are likely dividers inside the tank to minimize
sloshing.

If there is internal corrosion, you want to know about it before the
tank goes back into the boat. If the guy is already welding on the
tank, so cutting some holes in the top of the tank to inspect is is
not that big of a deal. They can be patched over.

If the corrosion is from the outside, then laying some epoxy and cloth
over the wear points where chafe may occur might be a good strategy.
Boats hulls flex and twist in the water so some chafing is pretty much
inevitable.

But then I would also paint the entire tank with some good single part
poly paint. Anything to keep the aluminum from rotting away.
I think that POR 15 or something similar might be good.

Agriguard is like POR 15 but quite a bit cheaper.

Dave

[Robert Franklin]

Given the work involved in removal of the perforated tank, what are the considerations in replacing the tank?  Is it cost?  

Are there tanks that are of material that is foolproof as to leakage?

My Monel tank is original 1972.  This thread has me a little worried.  I removed the tank in 1982 (not a big deal - right through the starboard cockpit locker) and it looked great, at least from the outside.  It is held in place by steel straps tightened with machine screws and nuts at the top of the tank, but there is a strap of canvas underneath each metal strap isolating the strap from the tank.

1982 doesn't seem like a long time ago to me, but mathematically it is 36 years and I hope that is just a coincidence in my case for my P36 No. 36.  Still, I guess things can progress in 36 years.

I am careful with my fuel and keep the tank topped up for winter storage and make sure the fill on the bottom of the cockpit floor is tight. But, I guess that won't help with water accumulating at the bottom of the tank. 

My primary fuel filter has never shown any water that I can view through the glass.

All of the signs are good, but this thread makes me nervous.  I never considered the tank as a potential source of problem, until now.

One thing I have intended to do, but always forget is to plug the air vent for winter storage.  That could be a source of moisture in high humidity.  I am not familiar with any other opening that would allow moisture to enter the fuel tank.

What about this idea?  I could run a 1/4 inch ID aluminum tube down to the bottom of the tank, same route as I use for sounding, connect it to small electric pump and try to pump any water out.  This presumes the point at the bottom is the low spot, but with enough suction, probably close enough.

Here is an admission, an embarrassing one.  I already have that pump-out rig all assembled and ready to go.  

Why?  

Several years ago during a period of complete moronic memory loss, I dumped 10 gallons of gasoline into my diesel tank.  I still can't imagine the stupidity, but I did it.  The 12 volt electric "extractor" was assembled at that time and used to empty the tank of about 13 gallons of mixed of diesel and gasoline.  I believe I was advised that the ratio would permit that mixture to be added to my 275 gallon home heating oil tank without any negative consequence.  I may have done that.  Or, my club has a waste oil shed and I may have dumped it there.  I don't recall, exactly.  Either way, I didn't explode myself or anyone else.

Based on the gasoline event, maybe I should stop worrying about water?

Bob Franklin

> email to pearson-boats+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

> To post to this group, send email to pearso...@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/pearson-boats.
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "pearson-boats" group.

To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to pearson-boats+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

To post to this group, send email to pearso...@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/pearson-boats.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

--

Robert M. Franklin, Esq.
145 Lagrange Street
Chestnut Hill, MA 02467-3047
617 277 5900 Cell
617 277 5901 Fax
email:  robertm...@gmail.com

[FINBUCK]

when mine broke i used a plastic thru hull.  Fit well with a little 101 or life caulk and torque

--

You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "pearson-boats" group.

To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to pearson-boat...@googlegroups.com.

To post to this group, send email to pearso...@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/pearson-boats.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

--

Capt Mick Gurley
P.O. Box 352
Captiva Island, Florida  33924
239*395*1782
mi...@newmoonsailing.com
www.newmoonsailing.com

Sailing from Tween Waters Inn

Become a fan of New Moon Sailing on FACEBOOK

[Guy Johnson]

ASAP has some nice looking deck drains. 

Sent from Outlook

https://www.asap-supplies.com/us/deck-fittings-and-hardware/scuppers-drains/round-cockpit-drain-511048

Round Cockpit Drain for 40mm ID Hose (Stainless Steel 316) www.asap-supplies.com Seaflow Stainless Steel 316 Round Cockpit Drain (40mm ID Hose), from A.S.A.P. Supplies Ltd.

---

From: pearso...@googlegroups.com <pearso...@googlegroups.com> on behalf of FINBUCK <finb...@gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 8, 2018 11:49 AM
To: pearso...@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [pearson ] Re: Deck Scupper for 31-2

 

[Robert Franklin]

Expensive, but that's what a scupper drain should be.

On Wed, Aug 8, 2018 at 1:35 PM, Guy Johnson <guy...@hotmail.com> wrote:

ASAP has some nice looking deck drains. 

Sent from Outlook

https://www.asap-supplies.com/us/deck-fittings-and-hardware/scuppers-drains/round-cockpit-drain-511048

Round Cockpit Drain for 40mm ID Hose (Stainless Steel 316) www.asap-supplies.com Seaflow Stainless Steel 316 Round Cockpit Drain (40mm ID Hose), from A.S.A.P. Supplies Ltd.

---

From: pearso...@googlegroups.com <pearson-boats@googlegroups.com> on behalf of FINBUCK <finb...@gmail.com>

Sent: Wednesday, August 8, 2018 11:49 AM
To: pearso...@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [pearson ] Re: Deck Scupper for 31-2

when mine broke i used a plastic thru hull.  Fit well with a little 101 or life caulk and torque

On Wed, Aug 8, 2018 at 9:31 AM sideshow122 via pearson-boats <pearson-boats@googlegroups.com> wrote:

Was wondering if anyone has replaced or found an exact replacement for the deck scupper on a 31-2.  The drain/ scupper is located on the deck near the front of the cockpit.  I think that they are the same size as the 2 in the floor of the cockpit. They are plastic and I have one that is broken.

Thanks

Bob

Blue Moon 31-2

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "pearson-boats" group.

To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to pearson-boats+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

To post to this group, send email to pearso...@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/pearson-boats.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

--

Capt Mick Gurley
P.O. Box 352
Captiva Island, Florida  33924
239*395*1782
mi...@newmoonsailing.com
www.newmoonsailing.com

Sailing from Tween Waters Inn

Become a fan of New Moon Sailing on FACEBOOK

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "pearson-boats" group.

To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to pearson-boats+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

To post to this group, send email to pearso...@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/pearson-boats.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

--

You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "pearson-boats" group.

To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to pearson-boats+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

To post to this group, send email to pearso...@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/pearson-boats.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

--

[Dan Pfeiffer]

Guy,

This (and the rain here yesterday) reminds me that you added a drain to that spot at the aft end on the starboard cockpit seat that collects water on the 10M.  What did you use for parts?  Can you send some pictures?   has is worked out well?   Any issues?


Thanks,  Dan Pfeiffer

[Guy Johnson]

Dan;

I used a white plastic thru-hull fitting, probably 3/4". recessed into the seat so it was flush. 

hose runs from there to another thru-hull that drains into the cockpit. 

Guy

Puffin 10M #6

---

From: pearso...@googlegroups.com <pearso...@googlegroups.com> on behalf of Dan Pfeiffer <d...@pfeiffer.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 8, 2018 1:59 PM
To: pearso...@googlegroups.com
Subject: [pearson ] Cockpit seat drain on 10M (was: Deck Scupper for 31-2)

 

--

[sides...@aol.com]

Thank you for the reply's

Guy, have you ordered from the company before,it appears to be in the UK.  I think I may have found one to fit,

Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: Guy Johnson <guy...@hotmail.com>
To: pearson-boats <pearso...@googlegroups.com>
Sent: Wed, Aug 8, 2018 12:35 pm
Subject: Re: [pearson ] Re: Deck Scupper for 31-2

ASAP has some nice looking deck drains. 

Sent from Outlook

https://www.asap-supplies.com/us/deck-fittings-and-hardware/scuppers-drains/round-cockpit-drain-511048

Round Cockpit Drain for 40mm ID Hose (Stainless Steel 316) www.asap-supplies.com Seaflow Stainless Steel 316 Round Cockpit Drain (40mm ID Hose), from A.S.A.P. Supplies Ltd.

---

From: pearson-bo...@googlegroups.com <pearson-bo...@googlegroups.com> on behalf of FINBUCK <finb...@gmail.com>

Sent: Wednesday, August 8, 2018 11:49 AM

To: pearson-bo...@googlegroups.com

[Guy Johnson]

Bob;

I haven't ordered from ASAP, but I have used other suppliers in the UK without issue. 

I chose to display a picture and address from ASAP because they have multiple deck drains to choose from. 

Guy

Sent from Outlook

---

From: sideshow122 via pearson-boats <pearso...@googlegroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 8, 2018 2:33 PM
To: pearso...@googlegroups.com

[Peter Ogilvie]

Other than boats, corrosion in tanks is overwhelmingly inside out, not outside in.  If I had a 20 year old tank that was leaking would get a new tank. Oh, I did that

--

Robert M. Franklin, Esq.
145 Lagrange Street
Chestnut Hill, MA 02467-3047
617 277 5900 Cell
617 277 5901 Fax
email:  robertm...@gmail.com

--

You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "pearson-boats" group.

To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to pearson-boat...@googlegroups.com.

[Jeff Griglack]

I was thinking of saying the same thing.  The tank restoration systems that they sell at Eastwood are mainly made for gas tanks in antique cars where you can't get a replacement tank.  For a boat, you can have a new tank fabricated to the original size.

------------------------------------------------------------------
| Jeff Griglack                  "Blithe Spirit" P-30 #182

|                                  "Uffish Thought" P-365 #269
------------------------------------------------------------------
| "Don't take life so serious, son, it ain't nohow permanent"
|                   - Walt Kelly
| 'Years ago my mother used to say to me, she'd say, "In this
| world, Elwood, you must be" – she always called me Elwood –
| "In this world, Elwood, you must be oh so smart or oh so pleasant."
| Well, for years I was smart. I recommend pleasant. You may quote me.'
|               —James Stewart as Elwood P. Dowd
------------------------------------------------------------------

[Dave Cole]

I wouldn't replace it without looking over the existing tank closely.

 

There may just be one bad spot on the tank.

 

If there is widespread severe corrosion on the tank, I would discard it and have one made. 

 

From what I have seen, a 20 gallon custom welded alum tank is probably going to cost something over $500 plus shipping. 

It could easily get to $750.  If you don't need to spend the money on a new shiny tank, then why do it?  

 

Dave

10M #26 

---

From: pearso...@googlegroups.com [mailto:pearso...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Griglack
Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2018 6:36 PM
To: pearso...@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [pearson ] how to remove the diesel fuel tank from a P31-2

[Peter Ogilvie]

I'm at the end of the world in Kona with only one local marine welding shop.  They made me a rectangular aluminum 20 gallon tank for $400.  The seams were going on the original Monel tank so would have had to deconstruct and resolder that tank back together.  They would only do the work on a time and materials basis and wouldn't guarantee that it would last past the reinstall so went with a new tank.

Aloha
Peter Ogilvie
'Ae'a, Pearson 35 #108

[Michael Graham]

Peter, first, I have been going to Honokohau Harbor since I was 10 years old in 1960. At that time, only the inner harbor existed.  I assume you are there, but I suppose you may also be up at Kawaihae Harbor to the north. 

 

Have you considered using a plastic tank, custom built, for fuel.  I have tried to look back at my email to see who I used for the 30 gallon black water tank on my 10m, and the black water tank on the IP, but didn’t see quickly.  They have literally hundreds of molds forms, shapes, and sizes, and I am confident you could find one to fit in the 10M space.  You can order what you want, with as many pickup tubes, return tubes, and inspection/cleaning ports as you want.  I assume baffles also although we didn’t worry about on a 30 gallon black water, and I probably would not on a 20 gallon diesel on a 10M.  Someone else will remember the company. 

 

Do you live in Kona?  We have property up in Captain Cook, and will be on the island for about two weeks in September.  I often thought about moving the 10M to Hawaii.  But the waiting list for a slip at the main harbor was years.  I would be pleased to meet you in September.  I owned Bali Ha’I, 10M #14, for 42 years. 

 

Mike Graham

[Peter Ogilvie]

Dropped the hook in Keauhou Bay on Honu, our W32, just before the 4th of July, 1977.  Were on our way back from SoPac supposed to return to Seattle.  The damned anchor got stuck and still here 40 years later.  

Would like to get together but we are leaving on the 7th of September for a month.  If you are here before we leave will definitely hoist a cool one at the Harbor.  You’ve seen a few changes to the once very sleepy little village it was in the ‘60s-‘70s.  Where’s your property in Captain Cook??  We bought a lot in an abandoned Hawaiian village above Costco our first day here.  Really handy as I can check the boat out with binoculars and a short coast down Hina Lani to Honokohau.

I’d never planned on bringing the boat over here.  Was going to keep it in Alameda and make a cruise to Alaska and back.  Our son and family were in the Bay Area and flying was free so wasn’t a big deal to keep the boat there.  Didn’t put my name on the waiting list at the harbor till Aloha  Air Lines went belly up.  Didn’t have a slip when I sailed over but managed to get subleases until finally came up on the wait list after 5 years.  There is a way to get around the wait list but was bounced around to 3 different slips before our name came up.  I’d put your name in and keep it current, think it’s only $15 a year, as you never know what could happen.  You can do one turn down if you are not ready to make the move when your name comes up.

Peter Ogilvie

eight0eighteightnine5two3onenine

roverhiatyahoo

[Bill Robart]

If you do a google search you'll find the same thing for a lot less and even some other alternatives. I saw prices between $8 and $80. Gotta look a lot more to find something that's a good fit.

Bill

On Wed, Aug 8, 2018 at 1:54 PM, Robert Franklin <robertm...@gmail.com> wrote:

Expensive, but that's what a scupper drain should be.

On Wed, Aug 8, 2018 at 1:35 PM, Guy Johnson <guy...@hotmail.com> wrote:

ASAP has some nice looking deck drains. 

Sent from Outlook

https://www.asap-supplies.com/us/deck-fittings-and-hardware/scuppers-drains/round-cockpit-drain-511048

Round Cockpit Drain for 40mm ID Hose (Stainless Steel 316) www.asap-supplies.com Seaflow Stainless Steel 316 Round Cockpit Drain (40mm ID Hose), from A.S.A.P. Supplies Ltd.

---

From: pearso...@googlegroups.com <pearso...@googlegroups.com> on behalf of FINBUCK <finb...@gmail.com>

Sent: Wednesday, August 8, 2018 11:49 AM
To: pearso...@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [pearson ] Re: Deck Scupper for 31-2

when mine broke i used a plastic thru hull.  Fit well with a little 101 or life caulk and torque

[Michael Graham]

Our home is at the top of McCoy Plantation, just past the little shopping center in Captain Cook.  We access off Old Government Road. 

 

We arrive the 5^th of Sept.  Let’s plan on lunch at the harbor on the 6^th if you have time.  And I am sure the rest of the group would like for us to take this off line.  Mgra...@mac.com

 

I like your encryption. 

 

Mike Graham

 

Mike Graham

The Spike 

Island Packet 44, #14

(The White Boat)

[sides...@aol.com]

Hi Bill,

I did a quick search at work and only found this brand from the UK suppliers.  I will dig in a little deeper this weekend.  

I was really hoping that someone may have already gone through this and found one that fits correctly.  I have already ordered one that looks like it would fit from Defender, the tailpipe for the hose was correct but the outside flange of the drain was too large.  I need to take some more measurements and keep looking.

Thanks for the Reply's

Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Robart <wro...@gmail.com>
To: pearson-boats@googlegroups com <pearso...@googlegroups.com>
Sent: Thu, Aug 9, 2018 7:19 am
Subject: Re: [pearson ] Re: Deck Scupper for 31-2

If you do a google search you'll find the same thing for a lot less and even some other alternatives. I saw prices between $8 and $80. Gotta look a lot more to find something that's a good fit.

Bill

On Wed, Aug 8, 2018 at 1:54 PM, Robert Franklin <robertm...@gmail.com> wrote:

Expensive, but that's what a scupper drain should be.

On Wed, Aug 8, 2018 at 1:35 PM, Guy Johnson <guy...@hotmail.com> wrote:

ASAP has some nice looking deck drains. 

Sent from Outlook

https://www.asap-supplies.com/us/deck-fittings-and-hardware/scuppers-drains/round-cockpit-drain-511048

Round Cockpit Drain for 40mm ID Hose (Stainless Steel 316) www.asap-supplies.com Seaflow Stainless Steel 316 Round Cockpit Drain (40mm ID Hose), from A.S.A.P. Supplies Ltd.

From: pearso...@googlegroups.com <pearso...@googlegroups.com> on behalf of FINBUCK <finb...@gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 8, 2018 11:49 AM

To: pearso...@googlegroups.com

Subject: Re: [pearson ] Re: Deck Scupper for 31-2

when mine broke i used a plastic thru hull.  Fit well with a little 101 or life caulk and torque

On Wed, Aug 8, 2018 at 9:31 AM sideshow122 via pearson-boats <pearso...@googlegroups.com> wrote:

Was wondering if anyone has replaced or found an exact replacement for the deck scupper on a 31-2.  The drain/ scupper is located on the deck near the front of the cockpit.  I think that they are the same size as the 2 in the floor of the cockpit. They are plastic and I have one that is broken.

Thanks

Bob

Blue Moon 31-2

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "pearson-boats" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to pearson-boats+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

To post to this group, send email to pearso...@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/pearson-boats.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

--

Capt Mick Gurley
P.O. Box 352
Captiva Island, Florida  33924
239*395*1782
mi...@newmoonsailing.com
www.newmoonsailing.com

Sailing from Tween Waters Inn

Become a fan of New Moon Sailing on FACEBOOK

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "pearson-boats" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to pearson-boats+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

To post to this group, send email to pearso...@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/pearson-boats.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "pearson-boats" group.

To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to pearson-boats+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

To post to this group, send email to pearso...@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/pearson-boats.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

--

Robert M. Franklin, Esq.
145 Lagrange Street
Chestnut Hill, MA 02467-3047
617 277 5900 Cell
617 277 5901 Fax
email:  robertm...@gmail.com

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "pearson-boats" group.

To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to pearson-boats+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

To post to this group, send email to pearso...@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/pearson-boats.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

[sides...@aol.com]

I thought I read about someone removing a tank in a 31-2 somewhere.  Here is a old post from Pearson31.com discussion boards:

How to remove a fuel tank from a pearson 31-ll 
Notes: tools needed Very large screw driver or pry bar, duct tape, electric screw driver, usual wrenches and boat tools. Is NOT necessary to completely remove the partition between the qtr berth and cockpit locker. To do this would probably require water lift, heater hoses and exhaust hose removal.tank removal is a one person job but 
Help is always appreciated! 


1) remove the fuel gage and pump tank empty thru the opening. Replace gaguge or tape over with duct tape (the replacement tank come with electric sender installed)

2) Remove fuel line at Racor and plug ends (wood dowels) 

3) Place bucket under racor and remove and drop Racor from tank and drop into bucket 

4) Disconnect return line from tank and plug. 

5) Remove Aluminum angle that is fastened to the partition between the Qtr berth and cockpit locker. (the one that support the board (already removed) over the tank.

6) From the cockpit locker, remove Uunscrew those ridiculus tank try down straps and remove ALL fastening screw in the partition including the one holding the � X � corner strip at the forward end attached to the bulkhead.. Unscrew everything attached to the partition, exhaust hose,wireing, fill hose etc. Remove fill and overflow hoses from tank and block ports with duct tape. 

7) (The tricky part) From the qtr berth spray with silicone grease (did I forget that in tools needed?) the forward bulkhead at the bulkhead partition interface. Also spray liberally the bottom aft end of the partition where it fits into a slot formed in the hull liner. 

Using the BIG screw dirver or pry bar and a wood block (3in long 2X4) as a fulcrum pry the partition�s aft end up while simultaenousely with your foot push the top of the partition out toward the cockpit. After the aft end has cleared the slot., pull the bottom of the partition up and toward you (the qtr berth) Using wood blocks secure the partition about 3 or 4 inches above the tank. The tank can now be removed thru the qtr berth. 

9) Be sure the new tanks height is no higher than the old because the virtually NO clearance the bottom of the partition and the top of the tank. If this this is not the case and there is no way you can make the new tank rest lower on its mounts, you will have to remove a little off the bottom of the partition to make everything fit back together, I had to remove about 1/16 inch. The is easily accomplished before setting the new tank.

Not sure if this works, just passing it along,

Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Cole <dave...@gmail.com>
To: pearson-boats <pearso...@googlegroups.com>

Sent: Wed, Aug 8, 2018 9:18 pm
Subject: RE: [pearson ] how to remove the diesel fuel tank from a P31-2

I wouldn't replace it without looking over the existing tank closely.

 

There may just be one bad spot on the tank.

 

If there is widespread severe corrosion on the tank, I would discard it and have one made. 

 

From what I have seen, a 20 gallon custom welded alum tank is probably going to cost something over $500 plus shipping. 

It could easily get to $750.  If you don't need to spend the money on a new shiny tank, then why do it?  

 

Dave

10M #26 

---

From: pearson-bo...@googlegroups.com [mailto:pearso...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Griglack

Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2018 6:36 PM

To: pearson-bo...@googlegroups.com

[Robert Franklin]

Not really.  Its gratifying to learn that group members have a connection beyond the site, but others may have a different opinion from mine.

roverhiatyahoo

> To post to this group, send email to pearson-boats@googlegroups.com .

> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/ group/pearson-boats.
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/ optout.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "pearson-boats" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to pearson-boats+unsubscribe@ googlegroups.com.

To post to this group, send email to pearson-boats@googlegroups.com .

Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/ group/pearson-boats.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/ optout.

 

-- 

Robert M. Franklin, Esq.
145 Lagrange Street
Chestnut Hill, MA 02467-3047
617 277 5900 Cell
617 277 5901 Fax

email:  robertmfranklin@gmail.com

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "pearson-boats" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to pearson-boats+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

To post to this group, send email to pearson-boats@googlegroups.com.

Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/pearson-boats.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "pearson-boats" group.

To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to pearson-boats+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to pearson-boats@googlegroups.com.

Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/pearson-boats.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "pearson-boats" group.

To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to pearson-boats+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to pearson-boats@googlegroups.com.

Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/pearson-boats.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "pearson-boats" group.

To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to pearson-boats+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to pearson-boats@googlegroups.com.

Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/pearson-boats.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "pearson-boats" group.

To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to pearson-boats+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to pearson-boats@googlegroups.com.

Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/pearson-boats.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

 

-- 

You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "pearson-boats" group.

To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to pearson-boats+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to pearson-boats@googlegroups.com.

Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/pearson-boats.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "pearson-boats" group.

To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to pearson-boats+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

To post to this group, send email to pearso...@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/pearson-boats.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "pearson-boats" group.

To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to pearson-boats+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

To post to this group, send email to pearso...@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/pearson-boats.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

--

[Bill Robart]

I agree with Bob.  Hearing more about any member is fun for me. You can keep it online as far as I'm concerned.

Bill

[Last Resort]

Thanks for the links Dan, VERY useful!!! and for the fact someone knows where the North Channel is and that there's no salt water there :) 

On Tuesday, August 7, 2018 at 10:11:58 PM UTC-4, Dan Pfeiffer wrote:

There's not a lot of salt water in Lake Huron but there is a significant off season where water in the bottom of the aluminum tank could lead to pitting in the aluminum tank from the inside.  I would have a good look inside the tank and maybe look into a coating for the inside.  I have seen them though I don't know what is involved in the proper application.   This is one:
https://www.kbs-coatings.com/tank-sealer-directions.html
I have used KBS corrosion treatment products and they seem to work very well.  But I would do some research.  I should have looked into it when I did the fiberglass patch on my aluminum tank.  

I wonder if it would be worth considering insulating the tank to reduce the potential for condensation especially in a region like North Chanel where you get wide daily temperature swings even in the summer. 

As for repairing the bulkhead, if you need some patching material I would look at the thin fiberglass sheets McMaster Carr sells.  Like this stuff:
https://www.mcmaster.com/#fiberglass-plastic/=1e25v3r
Look at the electrical grade which comes in thinner sheets than the structural and would be fine for your patching.

Dan Pfeiffer--

[Guy Johnson]

apologies for my fragmented answers. 

No issues with the seat drain, works so well I never think about it. I do faintly remember the puddle on the seat and needing to sponge it away. 

I enthusiastically recommend adding the drain. 

Guy

---

From: pearso...@googlegroups.com <pearso...@googlegroups.com> on behalf of Dan Pfeiffer <d...@pfeiffer.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 8, 2018 1:59 PM
To: pearso...@googlegroups.com
Subject: [pearson ] Cockpit seat drain on 10M (was: Deck Scupper for 31-2)

 

Guy,

--

[Last Resort]

so just to finish off the original post in this thread, I got back to the boat the tank was waiting for me. hole all welded and repaired, and he also rewelded/touched up all the remaining welds. He then pressurized the tank, and then washed it out with Varsol and all good to go like new, and all for only $100 CDN.   What a deal!!! We don't have a lot in the town where I keep the boat, but we got one of the best welders around!!!

[William Jowers]

This is as good as it gets. Welding this is as tough as there is.

On July 8, 2019, at 4:00 PM, Last Resort <lastre...@gmail.com> wrote:

so just to finish off the original post in this thread, I got back to the boat the tank was waiting for me. hole all welded and repaired, and he also rewelded/touched up all the remaining welds. He then pressurized the tank, and then washed it out with Varsol and all good to go like new, and all for only $100 CDN.   What a deal!!! We don't have a lot in the town where I keep the boat, but we got one of the best welders around!!!

--

You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "pearson-boats" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to pearson-boat...@googlegroups.com.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/00136f5f-a5e6-477e-b4a9-7f20ffccd19f%40googlegroups.com.

[Last Resort]

On Monday, July 8, 2019 at 7:21:02 PM UTC-4, William Jowers wrote:

This is as good as it gets. Welding this is as tough as there is.

just to be clear, my tank is aluminum and not Monel as in a lot of Pearsons.

[Dave Cole]

Still.. $100 for a tank repair and flush is a really good deal.  

--

You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "pearson-boats" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to pearson-boat...@googlegroups.com.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/bf1b3330-ef57-4452-bbbf-1c52d1c8b674%40googlegroups.com.

[Last Resort]

To Bob, Blue Moon 31-2:

I ended up using a thin piece of SS sheeting that I had.  My SS guy cut it to size for me, and bent the bottom to replicate the L bracket that was removed to cut the wood out, and it worked out GREAT!  This is the only picture I have, and if you look close, you'll see about 2" or less just popping out overtop of the cushions.  As for a new tank, mine was as good as new for $100cdn, so I'd look into that if yours is actually aluminum, and NOT Monel.   As my welder said to me, "you don't think we just junk the aluminum tanks on an 18 wheeler to you, we fix them and on they go!".   Let us know where you find the leak...if like mine, it will be from chaffing in the front right bottom corner, looking towards the tank from the cabin :)  

[sides...@aol.com]

Last Resort,

Thank you for the reply, the L-bracket looks like a good idea. I am going to search out for a tank repair guy,

I will let you know what I find out,

Thanks,

Bob

https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/88795ed0-1927-4f2e-b5cd-dab746f61d6fn%40googlegroups.com

.

[Last Resort]

BTW, I seemed to have forgotten to add an important part :)   Once I decided to take the tank out this way, it only took me about 1.5hrs to get it out, and less than 1hr to reinstall it :)  

[Dave Cole]

You need a welder who deals with fuel tanks.  

Its probably going to be a weld repair using a Tig welder.  

A radiator shop might be a good place to look, besides welding shops.  Many repair gas tanks as well.  Gas is the worse.  Diesel is low risk compared with gas tanks.

Dave

10M #26

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/1789482703.1171902.1681080479931%40mail.yahoo.com.

[Jeff Griglack]

I have been following this because my boat has a 44 year old, 50 gallon, aluminum tank, and I know that many other P365 owners have had to replace their's.  One boat I looked at (before I bought this one), had replaced it with 2, 20 gallon tanks.  The problem is that, on my boat, it appears the only way to get the tank out in one piece is to remove the engine, so most people cut it out.  My tank is not leaking, yet, but I know it's a matter of time.

Anyway, without hijacking the conversation, I want to point out that Eastwood sells fuel tank restoration kits for coating and sealing the gas tanks when restoring classic cars.  You can find them at https://www.eastwood.com/ .  If you don't find what you want on the website, give them a call and tell them what you are trying to do.

Hope this helps.

------------------------------------------------------------------
| Jeff Griglack             "Jabberwocky" P-365 #269

------------------------------------------------------------------
| "Don't take life so serious, son, it ain't nohow permanent"
|                   - Walt Kelly
| 'Years ago my mother used to say to me, she'd say, "In this
| world, Elwood, you must be" – she always called me Elwood –
| "In this world, Elwood, you must be oh so smart or oh so pleasant."
| Well, for years I was smart. I recommend pleasant. You may quote me.'
|               —James Stewart as Elwood P. Dowd
------------------------------------------------------------------

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/CAD5jJo3ZJN4Q5NrbiXs9Vkw44r%3DdHHV3c%3Dp3rgfee_2jQvkEtg%40mail.gmail.com.

[Dave Cole]

I've repaired gas tanks a few times.  Way back when, the fill necks were soldered into the tank.  (I worked for GM back in the late 70's when it was being done.)

I had to replace a fill neck once and then a fill port on a tractor tank.  I also had a tank that had a few rust pin holes that I repaired with solder.

The repairs are permanent.  

The key is to wash out the interior of the tank with hot soapy water, rinse thoroughly, and then blow air into the tank for several hours as it sits in the sun.  Then solder it up!   

The same can be done with Aluminum tanks but Tig welding is usually done rather than a soldering process.  

Soldering a steel tank or galvanized steel tank is actually pretty easy if you have any experience soldering copper pipe, etc.   

Just make sure to get the tank free of any traces of gasoline or other fuels.

Dave   

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/CAJj5SXLcg%2BdA6QkUTYopQA10gBjggb-TgsCEnFSP2gG9T-gT5g%40mail.gmail.com.

[sides...@aol.com]

Thanks Dave,

I am pulling it out this weekend to see what is going on,

Bob

Blue Moon 31-2

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/CAD5jJo0i75Up133M3SWYjz68p6rYf2up5_krN6akXVxL8t%3DiDw%40mail.gmail.com.