Ha. I wouldn't say my solution has been all that practical for me either. I would do it a bit differently a second time.
Will your inside also be SS? You can do much longer spans with SS. Like 3x.
Dan Pfeiffer
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How do you feel about barrel nuts? They lie as flush as is possible in the deck surface and you screw into them from below.
Tricky part is 1) to get the screw/bolt length just right to engage enough threads vs too long and they bottom out; 2) aligning axially so it’s easy to start the screw into the barrel. It’s a blind operation from below and can be maddening.
You typically see this used inside smaller racing boats to secure the sail tracks on deck and leave the saloon ceiling smooth/flush.
-DaveL
1969 P35 #106
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Here are a few options using the same size screws (10-32) as the original mounts.
These are inserts you would put in the overhead. I would open the existing holes
https://www.mcmaster.com/94165A231/
T-nuts.
https://www.mcmaster.com/90973A101/
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I sent that by accident before I was done. I'll explain more later. No time now...
Basically inserts from below set in epoxy and use a waxed screw to align.
T-nuts or weldnuts from above in hole recessed enough to patch over with epoxy fill. I would probably use the t-nuts with prongs but I might bend the prongs down a bit and set them on epoxy. They will still hold well. The weldnuts might crack loose and spin but you could bugger up the edge of the flange with a file for some teeth to grab. In fact that might be better than the t-nuts?
Lots of choices of screws. OEM was 10-32. You could go to 1/4" I suppose for some added strength.
Dan Pfeiffer
Here’s a link to various ¼-20 options – not cheap but thankfully you don’t need many dozen.
-DaveL
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Pricey but I like those. You could set them in a counter-bore a bit below surface, install rails and then fill over. Worst case if you need to remove rails is that you dig out the fill on top.
I think the weld-nuts would be about the same but need a bigger counter-bore and don't have a handy slot for a screw driver.
Dan Pfeiffer
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Laughing out loud
IKEA boat!
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I have a nice little Anchorman (later Lewmar) manual windlass that is vertical with a drum so about the size of a 45 winch? These are out of production and not easy to find now but you might keep a lookout. There was a version with just the gypsy and no drum. I thought the drum would increase versatility. It is less compact. You can see it in this photo:
http://dan.pfeiffer.net/10m/anchor_windlass_test_fit_01.jpg
I hardly ever anchor these days so it's not even installed. But it will be soon.
I don't think your dream Tartan was ever made with a shoal draft or CB. Still a great S&S sailing design with what is reported to be a most uncomfortable cockpit for cruising. They say to never meet your heroes so maybe you're better off with what the boat is in your mind. If I stood at my dock and popped a paper bag you could here it from the building where those Tartan 41's were built in Grand River, OH.
Dan Pfeiffer
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The windlass wants to be where the windlass wants to be (for line leads and such). The jib boom is not an issue with access to things on the foredeck. If needed it can be swung to one side and secured to the rail. But more often it turns out to be a supremely useful hand hold as you move forward. It has been a pleasant surprise in this respect.
Dan Pfeiffer
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I have not installed my Anchorman manual windlass so I can not report on how it handles the rode. My understanding is that the gypsy will work on line and chain and there are instructions for splicing them together so theyy will run through. The gypsy on mine is for 5/16 chain, BBB or HT and 1/2 or up to 5/8" rope. The unit could be had with a 3/8 gypsy too but that's a lot of chain for a 33 or 36 foot boat? Details are in the manual:
http://slspares.co.uk/pdf/Website%20Manuals/Instruction%20Manuals/Anchorman%20Manual.pdf
There are certainly those on the list with much more knowledge on ground tackle. It really not something I have gone very deep into.
I will say that I would not consider mounting anything like this to the foredeck without a stout backing under the deck. I would use 5/16 or 3/8 structural fiberglass from McMaster Carr.. And that is a slightly more involved process with the uneven nature of the underside of the deck. But not unmanageable. The reinforcing on centerline is a strip of plywood about 8" wide. Any penetrations through this or the balsa part of the deck should be properly sealed to prevent core damage.
Dan Pfeiffer
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There was some outfit that took these Milwaukee units and repackaged them with an adapter to fit the winch handle socket and tripled the price. I remember asking the guy at the boatshow what they did to the unit to justify the price. He mentioned some mod to the motor to handle the load. I said, you mean handle the load of winding a winch better than hogging 3" diameter holes through 4x12s all day long or some other easy task like that? I think all they did was put on a blue cover with their logo.
Here's an adapter
https://www.thecranker.com/
And another:
http://www.winchbit.com/
There is a 28v version too that reports to run about 2x as long. One person said it could take him up the mast twice on one battery charge.
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Drilling/0721-20
I like the handle on the 18V hole hawg:
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Drilling/2809-20
It won't run as long or as strong as the 28V unit but if you already have other tools that use that battery it make a lot of sense. You can get it without the battery too if you already have them. If I already had other Milwaukee 18V tools I would get the 18V. If I didn't I would get the 28V. Bonus is you have a very heavy-duty cordless drill on the boat for other jobs.
Dan Pfeiffer
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Correct on mount of 10M interior rails in line and thru-bolted to outer. The short fwd section is just screwed on from below. But at least one screw is buried above headliner over the head. but there's no reason it can't fasten through headliner. And there is no option to drop the headliner to get at what is above it.
My solution was SS rails with loops to match the OEM and coaxial fasteners for the inner rails. Very strong and a bit over-complex to make. Mine also run the full length from aft end of aft OEM to forward end of forward OEM in a single long rail with no gap at the mast area. I have the inconvenience of stepping over the 2" high rail to get to the mast. I also have something firm to plant my foot against when at the mast.
http://dan.pfeiffer.net/10m/handrails.htm
Doing this now I would do the same overall length but I would have less loops. They can be three feet apart with SS. Then I would come up with a different way to fasten the inner rails. Maybe threaded inserts in the overhead.
I bent the SS in place with a ratchet strap to be tacked to the standoff saddle parts. That was easy. No conduit bender needed. I wouldn't consider aluminum.
A friend installed plasteak rails a few years ago. They did not hold up. Splits around fastenings. He switched back to wood. He races so there's more wear/tear.
Dan Pfeiffer
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