Pearson 36 on Ebay, cheap!

[Dave Cole]

If you are on the east coast and in the market for a P36...

A bit over $2000 and this is the second time it has been listed.  

The auction ends tomorrow.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/396690219365?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D777008%26algo%3DPERSONAL.TOPIC%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20250324083038%26meid%3D05dccfd362db460d8f228a8f0aeb040a%26pid%3D101952%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26mehot%3Dpp%26itm%3D396690219365%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D4375194%26algv%3DWatchlistVariantWithMLR_BP%26brand%3DPearson&_trksid=p4375194.c101952.m162921&_trkparms=parentrq%3A561a89d61970a8cf7c5b6a4bffff74ce%7Cpageci%3A8035d415-4565-11f0-b9b5-b68d27f75e84%7Ciid%3A1%7Cvlpname%3Avlp_homepage

[Robert Franklin]

Dave et als.

If you are savvy enough (which I know from our years together on this Pearson site, you are) to have read the full ad, you will realize that this is not the IOR classic P36 from 1970 -1974, which George Dubose, a member of our group owns, and can espouse the virtues of with profound authority. Version 1, as I the classic is usually referred to, is nothing like the one you forwarded, an entirely different boat P36(2) for sale at $2,000 and probably overpriced at that!

After 45 years ownership, mine is sold subject to launching June 21. I don't say "sadly". I am not sad to see it go because the Buyer tells me he has been looking for a P36(1) for 10 years - he currently owns a Pearson 28 - and is thrilled to have found mine. He is knowledgeable, knows what he is getting with conditions contrary to most - being that everything works. Letting go for me is a delight I didn't expect because the coming transfer feels more like a well vetted adoption than a sale. 

When I reflect on my boat changing hands after almost half a century resting in my loving hands, I am certain, with average care and moderate attention to detail, there is no reason "Arion" should not be sailing 50 years from now; just as likely 100 years from now, including the Yanmar engine. 

I will be staying with our group because after owning a Pearson Ensign, a P30, a P35, a second P30 and my P36, Pearson is in my blood. Also I would miss my electronic buddies and gals on the site.

I'll continue to sail on my recently acquired but ancient centerboard version Rhodes 19.

I just this morning sent a bereaved young widow from my Yacht Club, whose husband was killed riding his bicycle in 2023, something like the following which illustrates what we have as members of this community, although the following is unrelated to Pearson.

She has a Morgan 37. I went aboard it on the hard last weekend and it is a big solid boat. Her current problem is the Simpson Lawrence electric anchor winch. I enjoy the challenge of machinery - especially marine engines. But I'd never seen an electric powered anchor winch up close. Details are unimportant for now, but after she sent me a copy of the owners' manual - imagine being able to do that quickly without email? - I did some Internet roving and came up with the possibility, yet to be tested, that the problem might be as stupidly simple as the system requiring the engine to be running for the winch to do anything but deliver as it does now, a "clicking" sound. Maybe that's all it is, maybe not? We'll see.

When I forwarded that advice, I added this caveat to Celia "I thought after 70 years owning sailboats there was no piece of marine machinery in the small boat category I couldn't tackle. I was wrong of course, because with the winch not operating, I ordinarily would not know where to start besides a complete disassembly - along with the probability of a complete disaster. 

The electric coordination of the winch with the engine didn't occur to me because that possibility was not one I had encountered until now ... until the Internet on which someone had posted convincingly about considering the running engine approach. Maybe it has something to do with the alternator providing enough amperage?

 

We can disparage modern times, but as an atheist in search of some kind of spirituality to connect with, I've decided on Conversion. My choices right now are becoming an Amazonian or an Internetarian.

If anyone is interested in whether the simple vs complex solution to the non working winch works or not, let me know and I will respond off site as this is not a Pearson related issue, which I guess most of the foregoing is not either.

Sorry about that.

Bob Franklin

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "pearson-boats" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to pearson-boat...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/CAD5jJo05i9rppzQB9fyrTkVRsGwEMT%2BKaKUBneRb93Gcb%3DzD0A%40mail.gmail.com.

--

Robert M. Franklin, Esq.
145 Lagrange Street
Chestnut Hill, MA 02467-3047
617 277 5900 Cell
email:  robertm...@gmail.com

[Dan Pfeiffer]

Hardly overpriced at $2000.  The (3) ST winches alone are worth that.  That boat could be parted out to net 7K or more?  Or, it probably needs 5K to get it sailing unless it needs an engine?  The boat looks relatively good in the photos.  If the hull was toast I'd love to get the rig.   Or do you mean it's not worth it because it is a P36-2 and not the incomparable P36-1? 


Dan Pfeiffer

On 2025-06-09 4:26 pm, Robert Franklin wrote:

Dave et als.

 

If you are savvy enough (which I know from our years together on this Pearson site, you are) to have read the full ad, you will realize that this is not the IOR classic P36 from 1970 -1974, which George Dubose, a member of our group owns, and can espouse the virtues of with profound authority. Version 1, as I the classic is usually referred to, is nothing like the one you forwarded, an entirely different boat P36(2) for sale at $2,000 and probably overpriced at that!

 

....

[Robert Franklin]

The $2,000 hull is described as damaged. The engine is described as not working. Few people have the knowledge you do to repair. 

The work required to bring that boat to a proper functioning condition could be $20,000. I would not be surprised if there were a lot of other problems. 

I like the very popular 10M. A fine boat, but a P36 it is not.There is a similar profile above the gunnel, except for the bow, the stern and the cabin, but below the gunnel, inside and below the waterline much of the similarity ends. 

That is why I suggested the P36(2) may be overpriced at $2,000. I would like to talk to the enthusiastic new owner today and again in five years when the boat is still on the hard. We've all seen this situation many times.

Enthusiasm doesn't buy you a good boat.

I offer Dan and Kika as the best example I've ever seen of how not to own a boat ... and it happens to be a (ruined) P36. 

The floors and keel of my P36-1 were substantially rebuilt a decade ago.  to remedy a known weakness at the upper portion of the keel. The work was beautifully done in terms of structural effect and just as beautiful aesthetically. I'm not bragging. ??? Yes I am. Find me another P36 in the condition of "Arion" and I'll keep my mouth shut. I'm not referring to pretty things like a shiney top side. I have always focused on what counts, not what someone motoring by thinks. 

The structural work on my boat might not impress anyone until they were beyond easy rescue with the wind blowing 60 knots and the seas running six feet. That happens.

--

You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "pearson-boats" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to pearson-boat...@googlegroups.com.

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/5ed8268d11bbc3a7803bd316f33bf10e%40pfeiffer.net.

[Robert Franklin]

I forgot. 

Once the proud new owner finishes parting out the P36-2: winches, rig, head, blocks, etc., then sells the keel, realizing a tidy profit over the $2,000 paid, he/she will need to dispose of the other 6,000 lbs in an environmentally safe way. 

How does one do that?  How much $.

I've got nothing to do, I'm tempted by the bargain. I could use the money and the project sounds like fun.

On Mon, Jun 9, 2025 at 10:17 PM Dan Pfeiffer <d...@pfeiffer.net> wrote:

--

You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "pearson-boats" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to pearson-boat...@googlegroups.com.

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/5ed8268d11bbc3a7803bd316f33bf10e%40pfeiffer.net.

[Andrew Milkovits]

You know the saying..."there's no such thing as a free (or in this case, cheap) boat!"

I did the math on parting out my 31-2 that had a critical failure in the keel structure.  For me, I simply just didn't have the time to do it... but you're really not making much money doing this.  I called 3 different salvage yards/boat disposal services and the only one that called me back said it would be close to $100/foot to dispose of it (including all costs, transport etc).  

Then you need to be sure the marina you're in is okay with you salvaging a boat out.  Tack on storage fees, marina fees, and all the other bs and it's a low margin game.  Seems like the previous owner came to the same conclusion when they decided to donate this to boat angels. There's a reason most marinas have abandoned derelict old boats in the back corners. 

If this sounds fun to you and you want to work for pennies, I have lots of projects on my boat you can do! 

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/CAODnOUafK5dYXf3jY%3DgNt_XocT%2BXFSSHt2Q%2BwNTDndhmvZwdtA%40mail.gmail.com.

[Dan Pfeiffer]

ACK!  You really gotta get your head out of the clouds over the 36-1.  Its a good production boat from the 70's. Not a great one.  A good one.  Above average.  But no better or worse than any other Pearson. 

You are right that the 10M is not a P36 (and why are you even bringing that up?).  But it is every bit as well built and good sailing - and it's not all that well built from a blue-water design perspective, just like every other Pearson of this era.  There are indeed differences from the 36 to the 10M but in terms of design philosophy they are more similar than different.  I would say the 10M is actually a bit of a refinement in that philosophy without some of the IOR shape anomalies that are present in the 36 (see the quite narrow stern and bustle at about station 9).  And I suspect the 10M will be generally better behaved downwind in large following seas (mine is a gem and I am rigged for and seek out force 6 and 7 conditions).  But for any boat, if you keep from pushing to the extremes of the performance envelope you will generally be fine.   Including quirky old IOR designs.  Not that the 36 is all that quirky, it's just quirkier than the 10M.   


Here are 10 blue water disqualifying construction details on Pearson's of this era (10M and 36 included)

1. Secondary bonding for key structural components (like bulkheads and keel grid)
2. Chopper gun made inner skin on cored deck (weak but cheap)
3. Mild steel mast steps (can lead to dangerous erosion of base of mast)
4. Bolt-on keel (maybe debatable)
5. too small keel bolts (5/8?  Really?)
6. No water tight bulkheads
7. Fiberglass interior liner limiting access to hull inner surface
8. No seals on cockpit lockers
9. No longitudinal stringers
10. Lack of tabbing in areas the builders just couldn't reach during construction
I could go on ... cabin windows are too big...

Some of these are easy to deal with, some are not.  Number one is as far as you really need to go for disqualification.  It's what put Uma on the total rebuild path. If you don't understand what this is all about you probably aren't qualified to make a determination of what is blue water capable.  But you can learn. 

A couple positives on the 10M and probably the 36 for blue water use
The rudder skeg is properly strong (I have seen it tested)
The rig is overbuilt by a considerable safety factor (over 4.5 for the 10M - typical is 3.0)
The hull is quite strong (would be better with primary bonded stringers and keel grid)
The cockpit is quite safe and not too big (could use more drainage and seals on hatches)
Very good bridge deck

Uma has shown us the limits of the P36 and they are about 1/3 to 1/2 below what they did with it.  It was falling apart. That's why the total freakin' rebuild.  To remake it into something it never was and never was intended to be.  And good on them.  They came to understand the boats inherent limitations.  But don't take it as an example of what a P36 can be.  It's not a P36 anymore. 

As for being out on the ocean in 60 knots and 6 foot seas?  (More like 26 foot seas with that wind but I digress...) Don't do that.  Don't even think of doing that in a P36 or a Pearson anything.  They were not made for that.  They just weren't.   There may be some exceptions with the earlier designer builds (Alden, Tripp, Rhodes, Alberg) but it depends on how they were built and I wouldn't be surprised that, despite fine designer pedigrees, corners may have been cut in the production (secondary bonded structural components?).  I haven't had the experience with those models to say.  And they are very old by now with plenty of fatigue (the coffin nail for all our boats).  But Ive had lots with the later era boats.  They are fine and above average production boats that compare well to their peers (C&C, Columbia, Catalina, Hunter,...) but they were not built to cross oceans.  Get over it.  If you want to do that get a boat actually made to deal with it.  It will not be a Pearson (maybe a Contessa or Halberg Rassy, Ruslter,...).  And for God's sake, do not confuse luck for validation.  You want to get out there on a real ocean?   Get a real ocean boat.  If you think a Pearson is that then you need to school yourself.  You're not ready. 

In the mean time enjoy your Pearson for what it was intended.  It is very good indeed for that.  And all this is not a knock on Pearsons.  They are great boats.  It's just a reality check on what they are and what they are actually capable of (or aren't in this case).


Sorry, Dan Pfeiffer


Attached is a photo of an indestructible, built-like-a-tank, bullet proof, overbuilt, can take anything, Pearson Alberg 35.  Granted it was washed up in a storm, not beat to death in 60 knots in the open ocean. 

[Dan Pfeiffer]

I've done this more than once.  It is not a big money maker for sure. Closer to break even?  A bit better than that.  It is a great way to learn about boat construction by dissecting one.  I've learned a lot that way.  It's a lot easier than you would like to think to tear one of these apart.  Once all the hardware was off I would say 20 to 30 hrs of work and a dumpster and you would never know it was there.  You need a sawsall and about 2 dozen demolition blades.  Maybe 3 dozen.  You may get close to $2000 recycling the keel.  The rig has a lot of potential value if you can find a buyer.  It's not easy to transport.  55 feet?

This one certainly doesn't look beyond salvation from what I can see.  But Bob is right that not everyone is skilled to do it.  Certainly not a bargain for someone who wasn't.

Dan Pfeiffer

[George Dubose]

On 6/10/25 4:40 AM, Robert Franklin wrote:

I offer Dan and Kika as the best example I've ever seen of how not to own a boat ... and it happens to be a (ruined) P36.

If I was 30 years younger, I would "ruin" my boat too...

The hull reinforcement that Uma is getting is how Pearsons should have been built to begin with. Using rolls of fiberglass cloth to fix a floor?

Once all the layup production weak points are fixed, these Pearsons are wonderful boats.

Except for lack of storage, fuel and water capacity...

George/Skylark

-- 
George DuBose
www.george-dubose.com

Wiedstrasse 16
D-50859 Cologne
Germany

[George Dubose]

On 6/10/25 6:52 AM, Dan Pfeiffer wrote:
> Here are 10 blue water disqualifying construction details on Pearson's
> of this era (10M and 36 included)
>
> 1. Secondary bonding for key structural components (like bulkheads and
> keel grid)

Can be fixed by adding floors, more layers of glass to the hull and real
tabbing

> 2. Chopper gun made inner skin on cored deck (weak but cheap)
> 3. Mild steel mast steps (can lead to dangerous erosion of base of mast)

Can be replaced with an aluminum mast step

> 4. Bolt-on keel (maybe debatable)
> 5. too small keel bolts (5/8?  Really?)

12 bronze "J" bolts. I have hit rocks at speed

> 6. No water tight bulkheads

What Pearson has WTB?

> 7. Fiberglass interior liner limiting access to hull inner surface

Not on my P36-1

> 8. No seals on cockpit lockers

I had to add them to get RCD "A" from the EU
> 9. No longitudinal stringers
Yeah, but adding tabbing to the outside of the bunk supports helps a bit

> 10. Lack of tabbing in areas the builders just couldn't reach during
> construction
> I could go on ... cabin windows are too big...

Cover them with 1/2" Lexan and VHB

Skylark's biggest shortcomings are lack of storage, fuel and water
capacity. If I used my boat 24/7, I would add a watermaker.

Not too many boats have such beautiful lines as a P36-1.

George and Skylark are in Sicily

[Dan Pfeiffer]

No, you can't "fix" the secondary bonding issue.  You can reinforce and add more secondary bonding but it's still not the best way to build a blue water boat.  All the structural components (bulkheads, stringers, floors, engine beds, etc) should be done integral with the hull layup for primary bonding.   Adding more secondary bonded structure will help but not as much as building it right from the outset would have.  And to add it right you MUST remove all the old and replace it.  You cant add more over the inferior polyester secondary bonding to "make" it stronger.

Steel mast step can be replaced.  Of course.  But that doesn't change that it wasn't right in the first place.  That was the point. 

What Pearson has WTB?  None.  That was my point.  They don't.  To be fair, it's likely a lot of bluewater built boats don't, but they should.  There should be a crash bulkhead forward and the rudder post and stuffing box should be isolated to not be able to flood the whole boat if they leak (See J/122 Alliance from 2024 Newport Bermuda Race) . 

Bronze J bolts?  Swell.  It's still a bolt-on keel.  And if you've hit rocks, at speed, I would be very concerned about the condition of all the secondary boded components in your boat(floors and bulkheads).  The tabbing of all that is likely compromised.  Could be rig damage too. 

Fiberglass interior liner?  Yes you do have that on your P36.  That's how they were built.  Just like my 10M and every other 1970 and later Pearson. 

No stringers - Add tabbing?  Cover the big ports?   Again, these were meant to be disqualifying construction details.  Saying you can fix them does not mean they weren't there.  The point is the boats were not built to blue water standards. 

Beautiful lines?  Sure.  I guess.  But not the point.  Mine was not an aesthetic assessment. 

My point was to respond to the notion that you'd be fine at sea in 60 knots in a P36.  Just, no. 


Dan Pfeiffer

[Dave Cole]

I missed some things on this with the revised add after it was relisted.  The listing said it was running originally, I thought.  And I dont recall any mention of hull damage before.

Still, if I was closer and looking for a Pearson Id probably take the chance.  

The engine fix may be simple.  Hull fix?  

Thats a lot of boat for $2k.  

Note that the first buyer walked away after the sale.  It can be done.

The boats on Boat Angel seem to be getting bigger. There is a 49 foot power boat on there with non running diesels.  Crazy.

[Dave Cole]

Fyi...its up for sale again.

Dave

10M #26

[Peter McGowan]

wondering on best positions for slings if hoisting a P36 (-1).  A picture of “Mariah” in Barrington, RI appears to be aligning the slings with the forward and aft stanchions.  I’m not at my boat right now but as I recall from looking at backing plates the aft stanchions are a few inches back from the aft bulkhead (that separates the lazarettes from the main salon).  I cannot picture the fore stanchions but I vaguely recall they are a few inches forward of the forward bulkhead (that separates the V-berth from the head and the locker opposite it) up inside the upper “lockers” of the v-berth.  So with Mariah, the slings being within a few inches of those bulkheads seems to be acceptable at that particular yard.   Follow up question - What stops slings sliding up forward/aft along the hull when the boat is being lifted?  Every picture I see the straps are pretty close to vertical.

https://sailingmagazine.net/article-2167-mariah-rises-again.html

[Dave Cole]

Once you figure out the preferred lifting position, mark the rail with black electrical tape.  I did this years ago with 3M 33+ tape and its still stuck.  The lift operators really like that.

If you mark it when out if the water, you can drop a plumb bob over the rail to see where the strap wil go, roughly. 

Ive had a few sailboats.  Just in front of the keel and between the propshaft and the keel has always worked for me on three different sailboats.   In the rear on my 10M, its fairly flat there.  In the front, its pitched upwards only slightly.

Not sliding is all about friction and the positioning of the slings on the travelift.

My boats about 12,000 lbs and once weight is applied Ive never seen the slings move.

But a few operators will pull the slings in towards the middle of the boat as well.  That will tend to make the pull on the hull more perpendicular to the surface.  

However, others wont do that.

Im always at the boat for launch and pullout and I watch closely and I interject if I see a problem.   Not all lift operators are great and they make mistakes.  Call them out if you see an issue.  Its your boat.

Ive prevented some issues by watching closely and even helping them.  Watch the blocking and strap positioning.  Never let them lift on your propshaft.  If the boat gets close to the travelift frame, yell and wave.  

Also, on many travelifts you will need to disconnect your backstay.  In that case your backstay will interfere with the travelift frame if you do not.

Not sure about the P36... Does it have a fiberglass rear section on its keel like the 10M?  

Dave

10M #26

On Sun, Jun 15, 2025, 9:52 AM Peter McGowan <mcgowa...@gmail.com> wrote:

wondering on best positions for slings if hoisting a P36 (-1).  A picture of “Mariah” in Barrington, RI appears to be aligning the slings with the forward and aft stanchions.  I’m not at my boat right now but as I recall from looking at backing plates the aft stanchions are a few inches back from the aft bulkhead (that separates the lazarettes from the main salon).  I cannot picture the fore stanchions but I vaguely recall they are a few inches forward of the forward bulkhead (that separates the V-berth from the head and the locker opposite it) up inside the upper “lockers” of the v-berth.  So with Mariah, the slings being within a few inches of those bulkheads seems to be acceptable at that particular yard.   Follow up question - What stops slings sliding up forward/aft along the hull when the boat is being lifted?  Every picture I see the straps are pretty close to vertical.

https://sailingmagazine.net/article-2167-mariah-rises-again.html

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "pearson-boats" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to pearson-boat...@googlegroups.com.

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/CAJF6WACNxGOn5GeDg3bSZmyPeix4%2Bz34MEUZ6ot47KEVgiLR_w%40mail.gmail.com.

[JimR]

Yes, there is a fibreglass section on the rear of the keel on the 36-1.  I have seen first hand the damage that can be done when blocking is installed too far aft - I looked at a 36-1 up in Yarmouth Maine before I bought mine and the fiberglass section on the rear of the keel was blown out,  I remind my yard every year, plus I make a line on the keel with a sharpie and write "no blocking" after I paint her each spring.  Believe it or not the writing doesn't wear off and is still visible in the fall when they haul the boat and put her on the hard for the winter.

Jim

Orion

36-1, hull #28

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/CAD5jJo3rYBEkxrO5d4fK67bSLrgN0g8nyJvreD1D2Kv1Z1zgFw%40mail.gmail.com.

[Peter McGowan]

Play blocking do you mean something similar to Jack stands?  Over the years, I’ve had my jackstands pretty much all over the hull as I moved them around between bottom paint layers.

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/CAM%2BogidP4%3D_NnfBR9STvUEPukX%2Be_QkD9wPOAsLsk_VM_F3pOg%40mail.gmail.com.

[JimR]

No, they put wood blocking on the ground under the keel.  The jack stands take some of the weight, however I believe the majority of the weight is on the blocking under the keel.  It's important that the jack stands be placed on or near a bulkhead, otherwise you can get what is referred to as "oil-canning" of the hull - where the jack stands create a depression and actually pushes in sections of the hull.  Most of the time these depressions pop back out when the boat is lifted off the stands but I have heard of some cases where there is permanent damage to the hull if the depression is very deep. 

Jim

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/CAJF6WAAsCmk5EdZ5LUL345mFkX%2BQxg2egtr0kV1_8u9gq1%3D0gQ%40mail.gmail.com.

[Peter McGowan]

Yah, that’s how it’s done here too.  You can see/feel the hull “bending” if you’re in a spot that’s a ways from the bulkhead (s).  I usually back off a bit once that starts happening as I figure at that point I’ve gone beyond keeping the boat balanced on the keel.

Anyways thanks all for the advice!  I’ll mark close to the front of the keel that seems pretty easy and see what I can figure out for the back.  

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/CAM%2Bogiduz0nkXncexC55BNQaSVD5fDi3LuXWPWX3oj%3DTcPTaiA%40mail.gmail.com.

[John Getz]

Sling positions for my P36 are at the forward shrouds and the aft end of the cabin top. 

John Getz

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 15, 2025, at 12:09 PM, Peter McGowan <mcgowa...@gmail.com> wrote:



To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/CAJF6WAAKzrT%3D2M_K2io-CrVK2G0k4dbLNYNH7i_yY8Ws%2BX39zg%40mail.gmail.com.

[Peter McGowan]

Very clear.  Thanks!

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/FEB2C263-C962-482E-9558-B1DFF9EFBA51%40gmail.com.

[Dave Cole]

When I mentioned blocking and I meant the whole shebang.  Jack stands, blocks under a cradle, everything.   The marinas Ive been at sometimes hires part time help during launch and pullout season.  Ive seen some crazy things.  If you arent there to see whats going on.... you'll miss the show and you'll wonder how they could ever  ____.

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/CAJF6WAAHL%3DmnKNa%2BUTTA2yjR%3DwCc0FPAgnuzd_aoYF9%2Bs7vsGg%40mail.gmail.com.

[john getz]

Perhaps a bit clearer would at the aft end of the forward hatch, just ahead of the forward lower shroud. 

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/CAJF6WAAHL%3DmnKNa%2BUTTA2yjR%3DwCc0FPAgnuzd_aoYF9%2Bs7vsGg%40mail.gmail.com.