P10 deck core thickness

[darin doherty]

Greeting song I have a stanchion that it seems to be on a bad piece of coring in the deck and is very loose. So I need to rebuild underneath that stanchion and rebet it and all that good stuff. I was wondering if anybody use it any of the modern materials for the core under the stanchions to giving more support and how thick. Thanks a lot. Darin

P10 Charis

Titusville FL.

[Dan Pfeiffer]

The balsa core on the side deck is 1/2".  But it tapers at the edge where the stanchion bases are fastened.  Regardless, I would not bother with replacing core.  Fill it with thickened epoxy (West 406 or 404 would do) or mash in chopped up fiberglass.   I did all of mine this way many years ago.  The deck should have been solid in these locations. 


Deck Cores Showing Balsa
http://dan.pfeiffer.net/10m/cores.htm

Cross section of hull/deck joint showing tapered core
http://dan.pfeiffer.net/10m/10m_hull_deck_joint.jpg



Dan Pfeiffer

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[Al Taylor]

I recored mine at the midship stanchion base after I ripped it out colliding with a bow anchor. It would have been easier to layup about a dozen layers of glass but that gets heavy when you’re talking about a large area.

[JimR]

Thanks for the pictures Al.  Question - how did you add the non-skid on top of the new patch to match the existing deck?

Jim

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[darin doherty]

Thanks for the pics.  They are quite helpful.  I am trying to figure out the thickness of the core so I can get some coosa or plywood for under the stanchions and balsa or foam for the non structural area.

Regards .

Darin

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[darin doherty]

Thanks Dan.  That's a good idea, I was thinking of thickened resin around a core of coosa.

Darin 

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[Dan Pfeiffer]

I'd forget the plywood.  No wood.  You can seal it so it doesn't get wet but eventually it will still get wet.  Coosa would be good or G10 on the extruded fiberglass you can get from McMaster Carr.  Or lay up layers of fiberglass.  But, the volume of a repair like this can be large enough to generate problematic heat.  Use slow hardener and perhaps have a ziplock of ice water to set on top of the patch area while it cures if it is a hot day when you make the repair.  This won't be a problem with the block of filler method, only for a larger volume epoxy fill or fiberglass fill.  Like if it's several ounces of resin.   And this would be best done with epoxy not polyester resin.  Almost 2x stronger in mechanical bonding like this. 

I'd also do the repair from below if possible.   The outer skin is a much thicker and stronger layup of mat and roving.  The inner was done by chopper gun.  However, sometimes you have to work from above if there's damage or if access precludes working from below.  Al's repair is a good example of that. 

Regardless of where you access be sure to taper or bevel the edges of the repair area at the recommended 12:1 ratio.   The stanchion base will see a lot of stress and needs to be strong.  Although there is some argument for not making it too strong so if something snags a stanchion it pulls off the deck without leaving a large hole.  


Dan Pfeiffer

On 2025-10-06 6:37 am, darin doherty wrote:

Thanks for the pics.  They are quite helpful.  I am trying to figure out the thickness of the core so I can get some coosa or plywood for under the stanchions and balsa or foam for the non structural area.

 

Regards .

Darin

 

On Sun, Oct 5, 2025, 22:15 JimR <jim.rom...@gmail.com> wrote:

Thanks for the pictures Al.  Question - how did you add the non-skid on top of the new patch to match the existing deck?

 

Jim

On Sun, Oct 5, 2025 at 8:57 PM Al Taylor <awtayl...@gmail.com> wrote:

I recored mine at the midship stanchion base after I ripped it out colliding with a bow anchor. It would have been easier to layup about a dozen layers of glass but that gets heavy when you're talking about a large area.

On Oct 5, 2025, at 6:10 PM, darin doherty <usf...@gmail.com> wrote:

[Al Taylor]

I made a mold of the adjacent deck. 

Cleaned and coated small section lower part in first pic below with PVA, then applied nonwaxed gelcoat then laid up 1 or two layers 1708 biax and let it set up. Finished mold shown in second pic. 

Pealed it up then pressed it into a fresh coat of gelcoat over the new repaired glass lay up. Took two tries to get gelcoat to set up (first failed attempt shown had to be ground off) as daytime temps were 50-60s. 

On Oct 5, 2025, at 10:15 PM, JimR <jim.rom...@gmail.com> wrote:



Thanks for the pictures Al.  Question - how did you add the non-skid on top of the new patch to match the existing deck?

Jim

On Sun, Oct 5, 2025 at 8:57 PM Al Taylor <awtayl...@gmail.com> wrote:

I recored mine at the midship stanchion base after I ripped it out colliding with a bow anchor. It would have been easier to layup about a dozen layers of glass but that gets heavy when you’re talking about a large area.

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On Oct 5, 2025, at 6:10 PM, darin doherty <usf...@gmail.com> wrote:



Greeting song I have a stanchion that it seems to be on a bad piece of coring in the deck and is very loose. So I need to rebuild underneath that stanchion and rebet it and all that good stuff. I was wondering if anybody use it any of the modern materials for the core under the stanchions to giving more support and how thick. Thanks a lot. Darin

P10 Charis

Titusville FL.

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[JimR]

Awesome - it came out great.  Thank you for the info! 

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